There's no definitive answer to this question as different RVs have different types and sizes of water heaters. However, it's generally safe to say that RV water heater elements are not universal. So, if you're looking to replace the element in your RV's water heater, be sure to check with your RV manufacturer or a qualified RV technician to ensure you're getting the right one for your particular model.
Yes, upper and lower water heater elements are different. The upper element heats the water near the top of the tank, while the lower element heats the water near the bottom. This allows the water to be heated more evenly throughout the tank.
Yes, you can replace your RV thermostat with any other thermostat as long as it is compatible with your RV. Make sure to check the compatibility before purchasing a new thermostat.
You can indeed change a water heater element without draining the tank. You will, however, need to turn off the power to the unit and shut off the water supply. Once you have done this, you can simply unscrew the old element and screw in the new one.
99.8% Pure High Quality Magnesium anode rod. Better than powered anode rod, camper rod and aluminum rod. Compatible with all models Suburban (D, DE, DEL, DEM models).
For RV water heaters and camper water heater. Replacement Part Suburban 232767. Large Roll Of Teflon Pipe Thread Sealing Tape Included for you. Size: 9 Â¼â€™â€™ Length and has Â¾â€™â€™ NPT Thread. Uses a 1 1/16â€™â€™ (27mm) socket (not included)
A magnesium water heater anode rod protects your tank better and last longer. Aluminum/zinc rods are cheaper and are recommended if you have smelly incoming water. But consult a water treatment specialist before switching to an aluminum rod.
Replacing the anode rod in a water heater before it fails can slow down corrosion inside the tank and significantly extend the life of the water heater, sometimes even doubling it. You can get rid of the rotten egg smell with 3 simple steps.
Anode rods should be replaced regularly 6 months to 1 year if you have bad incoming water, keep few spare in your RV just in case while you are camping.
In my water heater in my suburban home, which is utilised five days a week, I change this component every year. It appears to be effective at maintaining the water heater's interior in good shape. Although I did not receive the white tape shown in the picture along with this item, I did use it to attach the rod to the heater.
Fits both 7/8" and 15/16" drain plugs
Angled design allows you to reach tight places
Includes wrench, two 1/2" NPT replacement plugs and Teflon tape
Designed for RV water heater drain plugs
Includes prongs for rusted drain valves and petcock drains
My Grand Design Imagine RV's 6-gallon Atwood electric/gas water heater responds well to this wrench. a lot superior to a crescent wrench. Not as simple as an extension socket. nevertheless, does the job. Since there is only enough room for one-sixth turn at a time due to space restrictions, it takes about 5 to 6 re-grips to loosen the plug.The original plug was a 15/16 "hexagon head The two extra plugs provided feature a 7/8 "hexagon head Both sizes can be used with the wrench. The stock plug should last for a very long time before the spare plugs are needed, but it's still a good idea to have extras.An excellent small tool to keep in the RV.
Replacement Part for Atwood Water Heater
Part Number: 93868
Atwood Mobile Products Spark Probe
The G6A-8E water heater by Atwood ceased working. Gas was flowing, but there was either no spark or a weak spark. then would terminate. The heater burned and worked nicely when I used a small lighter (barbecue style) and flipped the switch, but it just wouldn't restart.It was questioned whether this would match the model mentioned above, and the answer was yes. This component matched the one I had exactly.The igniter should have been easily placed in a matter of minutes, however the mounting hole on the part and the tapping screw that was included with the igniter were both too large for them. Finally, I used a machine screw and an 8-32 tap, and that worked.
Replace your 1/2" water heater drain plug quickly and easily
Package of 2
Install using a 7/8" wrench or Camcoâ€™s 11633 Water Heater Wrench
Fits various RV Water Heaters makes and models
1/2-14 NPT pipe threads
My Grand Design Imagine RV's 6-gallon Atwood electric/gas water heater responds well to this wrench. a lot superior to a crescent wrench. Not as simple as an extension socket. nevertheless, does the job. Since there is only enough room for one-sixth turn at a time due to space restrictions, it takes about 5 to 6 re-grips to loosen the plug.The original plug was a 15/16 "hexagon head The two extra plugs provided feature a 7/8 "hexagon head Both sizes can be used with the wrench. The stock plug should endure for a very long time before the additional plugs are needed, but it's still a good idea to have more.An excellent small tool to keep in the RV.
Durable brass construction
1/2" NPT male threads
Replace faulty RV water heater valve
I'm really enjoying how convenient having this valve placed so far. Yes, it will drain more slowly than if it had a 1/2 inch drain hole. After all, the 3/8 inch hole allows for less water to pass through. With a little forward preparation, I won't have a problem. The second issue is that this product is leaking for a lot of folks. I may have been fortunate, but I can tell you how I handle water and threads. I begin by using the thread tape (the white tape you buy at any hardware store.) I reconnected the two brass threads after applying the tape to both sets of threads. Second, I tightened the drain valve as much as I felt it needed to be before installing it in the water tank. Added fuel to the tank and applied pressure. My leak between the tank and the 1/2 inch threads started right away. I started tightening with my open end wrench just enough to stop the leak, then I added another quarter turn. After wiping everything down and putting it under pressure for about 30 minutes, I checked and there were still no drops. Maybe I was fortunate, maybe it will leak soon enough? All is well thus far. When it came to emptying the tank, I left it under pressure, shut off my water pump, and opened the valve. Be careful because while it's under pressure, it will shoot out straight; as the pressure starts to drop, open the relief valve on top of the tank and let it finish. Hope this was useful.
Easy to use
Adjustable handle allows access to hard to reach valves
Hollow handle allows water to flow to front of heater
Fits petcock drain valve on Suburban and Atwood water heaters
NOTE: Refer user manual before use
Open or close stubborn drain valves without scraping your knuckles
It's a little difficult to reach the pet cock on the hot water tank of my camper trailer. It is situated behind the heater's gas line. The valve will be much simpler to open as a result. If the tool weren't made of plastic, I would have given it five stars. Given that it was from Camco, I anticipated a metal one. If it holds up over time, we shall see.
You can use any kind of thermostat in an RV, but some are better suited for the task than others. The most important factor to consider is how well the thermostat can maintain a consistent temperature. Many RV thermostats are designed to compensate for the fact that RVs can be exposed to extreme temperatures, so they can maintain a comfortable interior temperature even when it's very hot or cold outside.
A water heater typically has two heating elementsâ€”one near the top of the tank and one near the bottom. Most models switch between the two elements to maintain water temperature. The elements do not usually operate at the same time.
It does not matter which wire goes where on a water heater element. The element will work regardless of which way the wires are connected.
If your heating element is not working, it may be due to a bad connection. You can check the element for continuity with a multimeter. If the element is not working, it will show a reading of infinity.
If you don't have a multimeter, you can still check a water heater element for continuity. First, remove the element from the water heater. Then, use a continuity tester or a Ohm meter to test the element. The continuity tester will have a light that lights up when it detects continuity. The Ohm meter will give a reading of 0 if there is continuity. If there is no continuity, the element is bad and needs to be replaced.
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