If your car is starting to feel a little loose, or you notice that your tires are wearing unevenly, it might be time to replace your control arms. Control arms connect the wheel hub to the rest of the suspension, and over time they can wear out and cause problems. Replacing them is not a cheap fix, but it is usually worth it in the long run.
If your control arm is damaged, it's best to get it repaired as soon as possible. Driving with a damaged control arm can cause a number of problems, including decreased handling, decreased tire life, and increased wear on other suspension components.
You can replace a control arm yourself, but it is a difficult job. You will need to remove the old control arm and then install the new one. It is important to make sure that the new control arm is properly aligned before you bolt it into place.
If you're replacing your control arms, you might need an alignment. It depends on how worn your old parts were and how well the new parts fit. You can usually tell if you need an alignment by driving the car and seeing how it feels. If the car pulls to one side or the other, or if the steering wheel isn't centered, you probably need an alignment.
4.8/5
OE fit and form geometry and alignment
Ease of installation
Moog engineering-validated construction and design
$234
Like a glove on a 07' Silverado 1500 2WD. It wasn't until I removed my OEM ones and compared them to these replacements that I realized how terrible they were. Excellent rubber boots on the pivot joints, robust ball joints, serviceable ball joints (zerk grease fitting), and well-built construction. If you have even a rudimentary understanding of how a truck's suspension works, they were really simple to install. You require a 21mm impact socket, a wrench, and a pry bar OR ball joint separation tool, whichever is available. Apply pressure to the ball joint and use a hammer to pound the knuckle until it separates. To get the bolts back in almost the same place, don't forget to note the frame's alignment tabs. In this manner, the trip to the shop for a correct alignment post installation will be secure and cozy. After changing any suspension parts, I advise getting an alignment.
4.8/5
Package Includes: Both (2) Front Driver & Passenger Side Upper Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly; Interchange Part Number of Upper Control Arm: 12475478, 15922557, 19209396, K6541 ; 15096197, 25812725, K80669, MK80669, MS50115 ; 15096198, 25812726, K80670, MK80670, MS50116;
!!! IMPORTANT NOTICE !!!: Before placing the order please check your car model in the Amazon Fitment Filter System in the top left corner. Compatibility information provided is for reference only. Please make sure to match the exact part numbers between this part and the part that you are replacing. Contact your mechanics or send us a message to make sure it matches exactly in case of doubt before purchasing.
Upper Control Arm Only Compatible with Chevrolet Avalanche 4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013/Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD&4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015/2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 2WD&4WD/Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016;
Upper Control Arm Only Compatible with Cadillac Escalade Base 2WD&4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014/Cadillac Escalade ESV 2WD&4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014/Cadillac Escalade EXT 4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013/Chevrolet Avalanche 2WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013;
Upper Control Arm Only Compatible with GMC Sierra 1500 2WD&4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015/GMC Yukon Base 2WD&4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014/GMC Yukon XL1500 2WD&4WD 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014;
$234
I heartily endorse this vendor. swift shipper The product was flawless! superior and more affordable than shady car parts retailers. Be ready because those camber bolts are tricky! Additionally, I advise switching both sides because a complete wheel alignment is necessary. Money wasted if only one side is changed! 5 Stars!2011 Chevrolet Suburban LT 4x4 installed
4.6/5
Lifetime limited warranty
Installing a ball joint on a lower control arm typically requires the effort of two people
With this tool and our 7420 or 7421 pry bar or any 7/8" diameter pry bar it's a one-person job
$234
This is as resilient as a rock. I had trouble understanding it when I first got it. I was aware that I would require a pry bar, but it was missing the instructions. When I initially tried to use it, my technical mind quickly kicked in, and it worked well. To remove the lower control arm, get a long pry bar, sturdy rod, or pipe that is at least 1.5 times as long.Instructions:1. Using your usual technique, remove the ball joint nut (or slacken it if there isn't enough room) and release the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.2. Attach the hook to the lower control arm, where the hole ought to be. The side you select will depend on the curvature of the arm to generate greater leverage, but if the third step is done correctly, it will work on any side.3. Insert your pry bar—or any other sturdy bar or pipe—through the opening.4. To prevent slipping, make sure the pry bar's opposite end is securely fastened to the inner portion of the lower control arm.5. Continue to press down on the pry bar handle until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle. (If at the previous step there was not sufficient room to remove the ball joint nut, back it off completely at this stage till you can slide the control arm downward sufficiently.)6. While keeping downward pressure on the pry bar, pull or push the steering knuckle away from the ball joint.Follow steps 2 through 5 to reattach the arm to the steering knuckle.There is no more slippage because it is a one-man job!I was planning to purchase an other, much longer and more expensive tool, but I opted to give this one a try first.Buy it!
4.6/5
Easy to install
Construction and design validated by MOOG engineers
Broad coverage for foreign and domestic applications
Restores like-new steering and handling
Greaseable socket reduces corrosion and wear by allowing new lubricant to flush contaminants
OE fit and form geometry and alignment
$234
Truck needed to be aligned. A lower ball joint replacement was advised. $250 for each side Upper were alright, they claimed. I ordered these upper arms along with the lower ball joints because I didn't want to be caught with the truck disassembled only to discover that the higher arms were also defective. The higher were also subpar. I bought the parts for about $200 and did the work myself. at least $800 in savingsThe zerk fittings are a significant upgrade over OEM and these pieces fit together well.
4.5/5
Moog engineering-validated construction and design
OE fit and form geometry and alignment
Ease of installation
$234
This component matched perfectly. The perfect fit. Up until the camber bolt broke, installation went perfectly. I doused the bolts and nut with Pb Blaster. The factory bolts were discovered to be WELDED ON. As soon as I applied pressure, it broke off. Just in case yours fails too, Fyi, get a camber bolt kit. In the end, the bolt had to be ground down before being pulled out by working it back and forth. Overall, the installation was simple. Bolts must be sprayed with Pb Blaster, then allowed to sit for a while.
4.5/5
Both (2) Front Stablizer Sway Bar End Links + Both (2) Rack & Pinion Tie Rod Boots - All (4) Front Inner & Outer Tie Rod Ends
for 2008-2010 Dodge Challenger - [2005-2008 Dodge Magnum]
for 2005-2010 Chrysler 300 RWD - [2006-2010 Dodge Charger RWD]
Both (2) Front Driver & Passenger Side Upper Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly - Both (2) Front Lower Forward & Both (2) Front Lower Rearward Control Arm & Ball Joint Assembly
$234
This kit has components of reasonable quality. The lock nuts for the sway bar links were the only problem I had with the parts since they are so tight that they actually damage the stud threads. The fourth nut actually seized midway through installation, forcing me to use a torch to cut the new sway bar link off, rendering the new component worthless. Three of the nuts went on extremely tightly. The rest of the parts went in without any problems.
![Rough Country Forged Upper Control Arms Fits 2007-2016 [ Chevy ] Silverado [ GMC ] Sierra 1500 Stock Cast Steel 19401](/i/61PpCIPU1YL/450/best-automotive-replacement-control-arms.jpg)
![Rough Country Forged Upper Control Arms Fits 2007-2016 [ Chevy ] Silverado [ GMC ] Sierra 1500 Stock Cast Steel 19401](/i/81qSFkG%2Be1L/450/best-automotive-replacement-control-arms.jpg)
![Rough Country Forged Upper Control Arms Fits 2007-2016 [ Chevy ] Silverado [ GMC ] Sierra 1500 Stock Cast Steel 19401](/i/61a30DHcmmL/450/best-automotive-replacement-control-arms.jpg)
![Rough Country Forged Upper Control Arms Fits 2007-2016 [ Chevy ] Silverado [ GMC ] Sierra 1500 Stock Cast Steel 19401](/i/81FWUK3rpyL/450/best-automotive-replacement-control-arms.jpg)
4.5/5
Made of forged solid steel for unsurpassed strength and durability. No welding weak spots.
Includes POM ball joints for greater range of motion and easier installation. Ball joints are fully graspable
Corrected ball joint angle for lifted applications.
Backed by Rough Country's Lifetime Replacement
Includes Clevite brand OEM style rubber bushings
$234
Just letting you know, these WILL fit a 2013 Tahoe Z71 Lt 4WD with upper steel arms. HUGE improvement over standard, twice as weighty, and the balljoint appears to be made of strong-duty materials. Very carefully preserved and wrapped. Quite pricey, but unquestionably worthwhile.with a 2 OEM "It took the lift just under 70k. I substituted a CCM 2.5" front lift for the Zone Offroad 2" lift. Although not perfect, the alignment and CV angles are also good.The caster for the final alignment is -5 degrees. with just the two before "I had -3.2 degrees of caster in the zone offroad (block under the shock type). There isn't much of a difference, and I don't notice any driving difficulties, but because it is technically out of specification by.9/1.1, my OCD is starting to kick in. The toe and camber were properly aligned.would repurchase.
4.4/5
Front Lower Control Arm Fit For 2000-2011 Chevrolet Impala; 1997-2005 Chevrolet Venture; 2000-2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo.
A Pair Control Arm, Including Driver Side & Passenger Side, Bushings And Ball Joints Assembly.
Front Lower Control Arm Fit For 1997-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix; 1999-2005 Pontiac Montana; 1997-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette.
High Quality : Undergo Impact, Wear, And Fatigue Testing To Help Ensure Quality And Durability.
NOTE : Please Make Sure Whether The Control Arm Fits Your Vehicle Before Purchasing.
$234
I mounted them on the 2008 Chevy Impala of my girlfriend. They began as they ought to have and have thus far performed just as well as the originals.
4/5
Both (2) Front Stablizer Sway Bar End Links + 4-Groove Steering Pitman Arm
Highest Quality - 10 Year Warranty - Same Day Shipping
Both (2) Front Ider Arm + Front Idler Arm Bracket Assembly
For - 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade - [2001-2007 Chevrolet Avalance 1500] - 1999-2000 Silverado 1500 - [2001-2006 Silverado 1500 (4WD Standard & Extended Cab)] - 2007 Silverado 1500 Classic (4WD Standard & Extended Cab) - [2000-2006 Suburban 1500] - 2000 Tahoe - [2001-2006 Tahoe] - 1999-2000 GMC Sierra 1500 - [2001-2006 GMC Sierra 1500 (4WD Standard & Extended Cab)] - 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 Classic (4WD Standard & Extended Cab) - [2000-2006 GMC Yukon] - 2000-2006 GMC Yukon XL 1500
FOR STAMPED STEEL LOWER CONTROL ARMS AND 6-LUG ONLY
$234
When I first bought these, I was a little hesitant, but after they arrived and were installed, I was impressed considering the price.Perfect fit. The only thing is that I wish the ball joints in the control arms had grease fittings; nonetheless, I was able to fill them up by slipping my grease needle under the edge. A second pair was purchased for my other truck. I'll buy these once more when my third truck requires a set.
If you've replaced your upper control arm, you may need an alignment. This is because the upper control arm helps to keep your wheels in the correct position. If it's not in the correct position, your wheels can become misaligned. An alignment can help to ensure that your wheels are in the correct position and can help to improve the handling of your vehicle.
If your car is pulling to one side while driving, or the steering wheel is off center, this could be a sign that your control arm is bad. Another sign is if your car is bouncing excessively after hitting a bump. This is because the control arm helps to keep the wheels in alignment and provide a smooth ride. If you notice any of these symptoms, it's important to have your car checked out by a mechanic to see if the control arm needs to be replaced.
To test a control arm, first check the bushings for wear. Next, check the ball joints for wear. Finally, check the control arm for cracks or other damage.
The lifespan of a control arm on a car depends on many factors, including the quality of the part, the driving conditions, and the way the car is driven. In general, however, control arms can last anywhere from 50,000 to 150,000 miles.
In most cases, it will take a mechanic between two and four hours to replace a control arm. This will depend on the make and model of the vehicle as well as the experience of the mechanic.
A car has four control arms. The front two control arms are connected to the front wheels, and the rear two control arms are connected to the rear wheels. Each control arm has a ball joint at each end. The ball joints allow the control arms to move up and down as the suspension moves.
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