Best Automotive Performance Air Suspension Kits in 2022

Last update: November 12, 2022

Are air bags better than leaf springs?

Airbags are often lauded as being superior to leaf springs in a number of ways. For one, airbags provide a cushion of air that can help to absorb impact in the event of a collision. Additionally, airbags can be inflated or deflated as needed, which gives them a level of adjustability that leaf springs do not have. Finally, airbags tend to be lighter than leaf springs, which can be beneficial for fuel economy.

Can you adjust air ride while driving?

Yes, you can adjust air ride while driving. You can do this by either turning the knob on the air ride controller or by using the buttons on the controller.

Does tank size matter for air suspension?

No, tank size does not matter for air suspension. The air suspension system is a closed system that uses air pressure tosuspend the vehicle. The air pressure is generated by an air compressor that is mounted on the frame of the vehicle. The air compressor pumps air into the air tank, which is typically mounted on the frame of the vehicle as well. The air tank stores the air pressure that is generated by the air compressor. The air pressure in the air tank is used tosuspend the vehicle.

How fast can you go with air suspension?

Air suspension is a type of vehicle suspension that uses air springs instead of conventional steel springs. Air suspension can provide better ride quality than steel springs and can also be adjusted to provide a softer or firmer ride. Air suspension can also be used to adjust the ride height of a vehicle. This can be useful for clearing obstacles or for lowering the vehicle to make it easier to get in and out of. The speed at which a vehicle can travel with air suspension depends on the design of the suspension and the air pressure that is used. Some air suspensions can be adjusted to allow


Firestone W217602445 Ride-Rite Kit for Toyota Tundra Review:


I'm in awe with how quick and simple this installation was on my 2015 Tundra Double Cab. I installed it with a few deep well sockets in about an hour and a half. As advised, I did not remove the spare tire or the back tires, and I never once regretted it throughout installation. I was unaware that the spare was there, apart from a few occasions when it got in the way while I was slipping out from beneath the truck. Although the instructions call for using a reciprocating saw to cut the jounce bumpers off, I simply undid the u-bolts securing the rear leaf springs to the axle and entirely removed them. This way, if I ever wanted to, I could return to stock (not that I would).In order to simply have one fill valve and one hole drilled in the truck, I chose to purchase a union tee. Filling them in this way makes it quick and simple, but I won't be able to make up for an uneven load on the bed. Since I got these to tow a vacation trailer, I'm not worried about that component.I am really pleased with my purchase because all the parts felt fantastic and appeared to be of very good quality.My towing experience has been substantially enhanced by this equipment. With around 25 pounds of air in the air bags and my trailer fully loaded, I can pull roughly 6500 pounds with 700 pounds of tongue weight while maintaining a level and comfortable ride with no hitch bounce.I wanted to add something new to my review that I felt was crucial. In order to set up and adjust your weight distribution hitch, hitch up your trailer, then inflate your airbags to the desired height. While it *looks* like it might be set up correctly or that it might *look* like it's doing its job, it's not, and you could find yourself in a hard braking situation with little to no traction on the front tires. Failure to do this properly can negate some or all of the effects of the weight distribution hitch. Additionally, I've landed on 20 PSI while towing, and my hitch is set to this. Once everything is set up properly, the hitching process should go as usual. Place the weight distribution bars on, secure the hitch, and then lower the trailer the remaining distance onto the hitch before inflating the airbags.Deflating the bags should be done first while unhitching.



AIR LIFT 60818 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit Review:


To go riding with my dad and kid, I tow two ATVs across the nation in my 2012 RAM 1500. Most of the time, I have to tow our kit and the second ATV while I place one ATV in the bed. Owners of RAM vehicles are aware of what this entails because my truck's coil rear springs cause significant sagging. They work well when a truck is empty and being driven around town, but they sag severely when anything heavier than a pillow is placed in the bed of the truck.A straightforward fix seems to be the Airlift 1000 air spring kit. I was concerned, though, because a lot of online articles claim that you must remove your springs in order to install the unit. That is just untrue now. Airlift altered their design after I contacted, allowing the top "puck" to now fit between the coils.The installation of this item was really quick and easy. In fact, lowering my spare tire to make room for work under the truck took longer than it did to load the bags into the coils.a) I took out my spare tire.b) I jacked up my truck such that it had six wheels "above ground.c) Inserted 2 Jack stands as far behind the frame as possible (just in front of the two link arm mounts)e) Let the axle "hang" (the tires will now be about three feet away). d) Released pressure on the scissors jack "f) FOR SAFETY, PLACE TWO JACK STANDS UNDER THE AXLE.g) Removed my rear tires.h) I formed the two bags into what I call "hot dog buns." Replace the cap on the brass fitting after removing it, kneeling on it, folding, and kneeling again (see the online video from Airlift).They were first slid into the coil springs. Was expecting a fight, but it was surprisingly easy. used no instruments and entered by hand.As the bag filled up and settled inside the coil, I removed the cap and poked and prodded it. Then, I installed the first air hose and clamp.l) Slide the "puck" between the coils with the air hose through it so that it rests on top of the bag (air hose goes through the center hole)The air lines were m) routed as directed, and n) connected with a brass "t." I was afraid that the plastic "t" that came with the kit might shatter in the cold temperatures, therefore I didn't like it. The brass "t" that is used to connect water hoses to refrigerators can be purchased from a hardware store.O) Connected the brass 't' to the fill valve I placed on my hitch (there are two holes at the base; I used one of them). P) Reinstalled my rear wheels R) Reseated my spare S) Added 30 PSI to the units and checked for leaks (follow instructions for leaving in air overnight and checking next morning)DONE....Utilizing the air bagsa) Although I'm still testing things out, on average days I've been riding with 5–10 psi. Doesn't appear to have much impact on the ride, and it increases bag longevity.b) Prior to loading the truck, inflate the bags to their maximum (30–35 psi).c) Fill the truck with cargo and connect the trailer d) Fill the trailer e) Let out a little air (until the truck sags A BIT) f) Buy a cheap 12V compressor and bring it along when you travel.



Air Lift 57275 LoadLifter 5000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit Review:


on a 2010 GMC 2500HD, installed. installed the entire equipment along with the on-board compressor and gauges for Air Lift.To begin with, this appears to be a fantastic product. It was just installed today. It's a lengthy review, but hopefully it will be useful to the reader after them. If you are a novice DIY mechanic, do not attempt to install this. I would not classify myself as a professional, but I have installed countless snow plows, spreaders, and de-icer systems, so I have plenty of experience with aftermarket extras. If you're not at least a basic mechanic, I recommend trying this, even if only for the tools. I spent (alone) roughly 7 hours total on the installation, but a good 1.5 of those hours were spent deciding where to mount the compressor, gauges, and solenoid. I completed the entire kit with the onboard compressor.All the hoses, hardware, and bits were present and wrapped separately when the kit was delivered by the manufacturer in a very well-designed box. I firmly advise carefully reading the directions twice before beginning. They are not in sequence and jump around a bit while having significant notes. Some of the instructions call for the use of a torque wrench, which most do-it-yourselfers don't even own. You won't be able to use a torque wrench on the higher bolts as instructed unless it's only this kit. Spend some time planning your installation.A good jack and jack stands are required. It is inappropriate, as stated in the instructions, to use jack stands to support the axel. To utilize the jack to raise and lower the back end to accommodate installation, you'll need to support the frame with jack stands.Take your time cutting with the airplanes, FYI, not 1 leak after fitted. Make sure the edges are not beveled and are extremely precisely cut. I took great care to make precise cuts and left plenty of room—both for movement and in case I needed to re-cut. I cut myself with a razor. You'll feel a small pop when you press them into the fitting, but to seat the airline, you must push them in farther. Most people undoubtedly experience air quality difficulties here. They will pop slightly before sliding in an extra 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The are simple to remove by pushing the pressure fitting in and pulling the line back out beneath the truck, so practice before you do it.The compressor performs admirably up to roughly 50 pounds before slowing down a little, but that's to be expected from a tankless system that costs less than $200. In about 3 or 4 minutes, I was pumped up to 90 pounds for the test.You will need a few "add a fuse" kits to connect to the fuse panels while installing the wiring. They cost roughly $7 at the majority of parts retailers. The kit doesn't contain them.Last but not least, I ran a single manual line to the back number using the extra onions and the one I purchased to maintain a safe pressure in them while driving or just in case the compressor fails while towing.Hope this was somewhat helpful.



AIR LIFT 60732 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit Review:


My 2015 Toyota Sienna LE has the Air Lift 60732 1000 series installed. The setup went smoothly. It probably would have been easy if I weren't crippled and a little younger. I appreciate the small lift that they gave my van with 25 psi in it, but after about 10 miles of driving on some local roads with potholes, I opted to lower the pressure to ten for daily driving. The van was as though I had never installed them once I reduced them to 10 psi. For installation, I did utilize the T since I wanted a balanced ride. Because I didn't like the lines hanging from the bottom, I placed the bags with the line going through the top of the coil springs. Due to the potential for running into something in the road, I was worried that the air line would be damaged. Just to give the air line a little extra protection, I ran it through a 1/4 inch wire protective wrap. Using the provided zip ties, I connected the cross over line to the break line that is above the back axle. In the jack storage compartment, where a mounting hole was already there, I fitted the air valve. I drilled a hole just large enough to fit the air line through the rubber grommet that is located at the bottom of the jack box and then filled it with glue. I have a right foot disability that prevents me from walking too far. I bought these so that I could bring my scooter with me when my wife and I travel somewhere where I will have to walk and I won't have to worry about the van bottoming out, sagging in the back, or the hitch dragging. I've uploaded a few images in the hopes that they will aid with your installation. If I run into any issues, I'll let you know later.



AIR LIFT 57215 LoadLifter 5000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit Review:


I cherish these items. I chose not to purchase the onboard air and instead routed lines from both bags to a fabricated bracket attached to the underside of the rear bumper. They were mounted on a 1999 F250 Super Duty 4x4, although I've only actually used them once. If it weren't for the concrete blocks poking out over the bed edges, you wouldn't know anything was in the truck bed after I loaded it up with 3000 pounds and inflated each bag to 60 psi. It appeared to be vacant on the way home. Actually, it rode a bit nicer than when it was empty. I am thrilled with the outcome. There will be no more carrying a load while driving, headlamps looking upward, a back end that swings all over the place on bumps, and front brakes that lock up when stopping short. These maintain the vehicle level and straight as it travels down the road, and it handles as though that weight had always been there. An added benefit is that you no longer need to add extra springs that are rigid when there is no load, which would otherwise ruin your back. You can return to riding like a factory truck by simply exhaling. I'm interested in seeing how they handle the large trailer. I don't anticipate being let down.One thing to keep in mind is that the upper bracket that attaches to the frame won't fully clear the recess on the Ford frames. For the portion of each bracket that rests on the radius of that recess, I had to take the spacers they provided for the Mopar applications and grind one to a taper. Without this, when I tried to install one, it had too much springiness and snapped the mounting bolt before I could torque it to the proper torque. After putting in the improvised taper spacers, everything ran smoothly. Like with most universally sized items, installation frequently necessitates some construction or modification work. For my use, you need to adjust a few spacers on the bench grinder and drill holes in the frame. Spend a little more money and acquire the one designed specifically for your purpose if you want something that can be attached to the truck's existing hardware with a bolt. If not, this arrangement is worthless, and now that I've used it, I wouldn't hesitate to use it to the full extent of its stated capacity. Now that I've seen how well they function, I'll be putting these on every truck I own going forward.



AIR LIFT 60769 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit Review:


Delete the instructions! The bottom shock bolt should be removed, the ABS wire should be disconnected, and the body/frame should be jacked up until the coil spring can be taken out. Reinstall coil spring, lower body/frame until you can reinstall the bottom shock bolt, tighten bolt, and reconnect the ABS sensor wire before installing airbag with the hose to the top. Next, route the airline carefully and zip tie the air line (make sure to leave a little slack here and there). Create your air valve and tee connection, then install it somewhere you can access it. Air is added, then released. To help the bags settle in, I repeated this several times. Take a test drive after adding 30 psi one last time.Done! Approximately an hour!(A 2009 Tahoe had this installed.)



AIR LIFT 25592 Load Controller II On Board Air Compressor System Review:


on a 2010 GMC 2500HD, installed. installed the entire equipment along with the on-board compressor and gauges for Air Lift.To begin with, this appears to be a fantastic product. It was just installed today. It's a lengthy review, but hopefully it will be useful to the reader after them. If you are a novice DIY mechanic, do not attempt to install this. I would not classify myself as a professional, but I have installed countless snow plows, spreaders, and de-icer systems, so I have plenty of experience with aftermarket extras. If you're not at least a basic mechanic, I recommend trying this, even if only for the tools. I spent (alone) roughly 7 hours total on the installation, but a good 1.5 of those hours were spent deciding where to mount the compressor, gauges, and solenoid. I completed the entire kit with the onboard compressor.All the hoses, hardware, and bits were present and wrapped separately when the kit was delivered by the manufacturer in a very well-designed box. I firmly advise carefully reading the directions twice before beginning. They are not in sequence and jump around a bit while having significant notes. Some of the instructions call for the use of a torque wrench, which most do-it-yourselfers don't even own. You won't be able to use a torque wrench on the higher bolts as instructed unless it's only this kit. Spend some time planning your installation.A good jack and jack stands are required. It is inappropriate, as stated in the instructions, to use jack stands to support the axel. To utilize the jack to raise and lower the back end to accommodate installation, you'll need to support the frame with jack stands.The compressor should not be mounted under the hood. The life will be reduced by the heat. Since it wasn't mentioned in the instructions, I had to contact to find out where they recommended mounting it. I ultimately decided to mount it on the inside of the frame away from any wheel splash zones. On a Saturday at 10 a.m., they did indeed answer the phone.Take your time cutting with the airplanes, FYI, not 1 leak after fitted. Make sure the edges are not beveled and are extremely precisely cut. I took great care to make precise cuts and left plenty of room—both for movement and in case I needed to re-cut. I cut myself with a razor. You'll feel a small pop when you press them into the fitting, but to seat the airline, you must push them in farther. Most people undoubtedly experience air quality difficulties here. They will pop slightly before sliding in an extra 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The are simple to remove by pushing the pressure fitting in and pulling the line back out beneath the truck, so practice before you do it.The compressor performs admirably up to roughly 50 pounds before slowing down a little, but that's to be expected from a tankless system that costs less than $200. In about 3 or 4 minutes, I was pumped up to 90 pounds for the test.You will need a few "add a fuse" kits to connect to the fuse panels while installing the wiring. They cost roughly $7 at the majority of parts retailers. The kit doesn't contain them.Last but not least, I ran a single manual line to the back bumper using the extra unions and the additional one I purchased, mainly in case the compressor failed while towing or to maintain a safe pressure for driving.Hope this was somewhat helpful.



Air Lift 59570 Ride Control Review:


I was having trouble squatting since I drive an F150 as a work truck that carries the same weight every day. Every day when I started adding tools onto it, the ride got worse. The 150 class trucks weren't made to haul a lot of weight continuously, in my opinion. After driving the same truck after I installed these over the weekend, the difference is night and day. I put up the HD air compressor with the drive set at 50 psig and the wireless remote. I can raise it to 80 psig if I add the hit mounted carrier.The wire harness and compressor occupied the majority of the time during the installation of the air lift kit, which took roughly 1.5 hours to complete. Like another reviewer, I lowered the spare tire and installed the compressor above it. This, in my opinion, was the ideal spot. When the remote is outside, closer to the solenoids, I have a tiny communication problem, but it goes away and everything works as it should. I did not want to break into the fuse box and deal with the difficulties that come with it, so I wired the air kit directly to the battery with the included fuse. It will run without the truck running.The truck is now a genuine pleasure to drive thanks to this air lift system! Progressive leaf springs render the truck's ride unusable when loaded. Helper springs function similarly. My previous truck, a highly laden F250, had "helper springs," but the ride was still awful. I regret not learning about the air lift kit back then.If your truck transports any weight for an extended period of time, I highly recommend this item.


How long do air suspensions last?

An air suspension can last anywhere from 50,000 to 100,000 miles. But, as with any type of suspension, there are many variables that can affect its lifespan, such as the quality of the parts, the frequency of use, and the driving conditions.

How many valves do I need for air ride?

The number of valves you need for air ride will depend on the specific air ride system you have. Some air ride systems have four valves, while others have six or eight valves. The number of valves will also depend on the number of air bags in your system. If you have four air bags, you will need four valves. If you have six air bags, you will need six valves. If you have eight air bags, you will need eight valves.

How much PSI Can an air tank hold?

PSI stands for pounds per square inch and is a unit of measurement for pressure. An air tank can hold a certain amount of PSI depending on its size and pressure rating. The amount of PSI that an air tank can hold is important to know because it can affect the performance of your air tools. If you are using an air compressor, you will want to make sure that the air tank can hold enough PSI to power your air tools.

Is air suspension good for daily driving?

Air suspension is a type of vehicle suspension that uses air springs instead of conventional steel springs. Air suspension can be adapted to provide a softer ride on bumpy roads and a firmer ride when driving on smooth roads. Air suspension can also be used to level a vehicle when carrying a heavy load. There are several benefits to using air suspension for daily driving. Air suspension provides a smoother ride than steel springs, and it can be adjusted to provide a softer ride on bumpy roads. Air suspension can also be used to level a vehicle when carrying a heavy load. One downside

Is air suspension good for performance?

While air suspension has its benefits, it’s not necessarily the best choice for those looking to improve performance. Air suspension can provide a smoother ride and better handling, but it can also add weight and complexity to a vehicle. In addition, air suspension can be less reliable than traditional suspension systems.

What are the disadvantages of air suspension?

There are a few disadvantages to air suspension. One is that it can be more expensive than traditional suspension systems. Another is that it can be less reliable, since there are more moving parts and air compressors that can fail. Additionally, air suspension can provide a rougher ride than traditional suspension systems.