Best Acoustic & Classical Guitar Nuts in 2022

Last update: January 6, 2023

Are acoustic guitar nuts universal?

There's no such thing as a "universal" acoustic guitar nut, because there are so many different types and sizes of acoustic guitars out there. That said, there are some common sizes that are used on most acoustic guitars, so it's likely that you'll be able to find a replacement nut that will fit your guitar. If you're not sure what size you need, it's always best to take your guitar to a local guitar shop and have them measure it for you.

Are all guitar nuts the same?

No, all guitar nuts are not the same. Different guitars will have different size nuts, and even within the same model guitar there can be slight variations. There are also different materials used for guitar nuts, with bone and synthetic materials being the most common. Different materials can affect the tone of the guitar, so it’s important to choose the right nut for your instrument.

Can I replace guitar nut myself?

Most guitarists will eventually need to replace the nut on their instrument. While it is possible to do this yourself, it is best to leave it to a professional. The nut is a small piece of plastic or bone that holds the strings in place at the headstock end of the guitar. Replacing it is a delicate operation that requires precise measurements and a steady hand. If you are not confident in your ability to do this, it is best to take your guitar to a qualified technician.

Do guitar nuts make a difference?

Guitar nuts make a big difference in how your guitar feels and plays. They can affect the action, intonation, and tone of your guitar. If you're having problems with your guitar, changing the nut is a good place to start.


Blisstime 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut and 6pcs Rosewood Guitar Bridge Pins Review:


They produce a high-quality, REAL cattle bone bridge for a price that begs the question of whether it is actually possible. I've purchased a number of their nuts and bridges, and I've never been let down. I had never ordered their bridge pins before, but I would definitely use them again. They are premium rosewood bridge pins without any branding, packaging, or frills, thus they are offered at a competitive price. I used them on an Ibanez Artwood all mahogany open pore guitar (AW54CE-OPN), and they unquestionably boosted the resonance (bass response). The rings fit perfectly and are both large and narrow enough to go in exactly the correct amount of depth. This will make them considerably simpler to remove and ensure that the strings are fastened securely. They were a tremendous improvement in terms of tone over the stock plastic guitar pins. I actually detested the guitar at first; after properly adjusting it, it was a little better, but still not at all resonant. I strongly reconsidered selling the guitar after installing these pins and saddle, as well as applying a little less fore-bow to the neck than I normally would. I've had a ton of cheap and expensive instruments, and I've found that if anything isn't right, it can usually be remedied. However, some problems take longer to remedy than others. In any case, blisstime sells high-quality goods; shop with assurance.



Blisstime 2 Sets of Classical Guitar Bone Saddle and Nut 3Pcs Sand Paper Premium Quality Review:


I had to look around a bit in order to locate and comprehend the entire Bone Bridge drama. replacing a bone bridge on a classical guitar, in my instance. I will need to slightly sand the shape, but the sandpaper is provided and should work just fine. Good purchase for all the convoluted discourse that ignores obvious problems. thank you



Luvay Guitar Bridge Saddle & Nut Replacement - Made of Real Bone for Acoustic Guitar, 2 Sets of 4pcs Review:


What a deal, wow! For two sets of bone nuts and saddles, I spent $6.99. Only my saddle was changed. The size and form were ideal for working with. On my $4k Taylor, I swear I could hear the difference right away, but it could simply be a placebo effect. :-) I initially filed the top (length) of the saddle since I wanted a tiny bit more arch there. The length was therefore a few millimeters too long, so I only trimmed one end with a file. To ensure a tight fit in the bridge hole, I radiused it with the file. (The sound is greatly improved by rounding the end.) I then used a tooth pick to make comparison marks between the new and old saddles so I wouldn't file off too much material. I looked all over the internet for a way to sand the bottom while keeping it square, but I ultimately came up with my own approach. To maintain a 90-degree angle, I moved my new nut along a pretty thick metal ruler. It took me an hour to loosen the strings, file and replace, then tune it again using the free Boss Tuner program. Measured action to.95" on the fat E to.80" on the slim E using a string action ruler gauge measuring kit for electric bass and acoustic guitar, which is available for approximately $5.99. (with a capo on the first fret). This complemented my strong flatpick strumming style perfectly. Since I'm only an intermediate guitarist and primarily use loud open chords, I don't need fingerstyle or buttery smooth lead playing. Search for "Action setup bryankimsey" to learn more about action decisions. Search for "acousticguitarforum thread 169459 blind test with poll" to hear the differences between bone, TUSQ, and fossilized whale ivory. I prefer bone because I hear a HUGE difference.While you're in there, bevel the bridge pin ends so the ends of the string balls won't catch on them. I had previously used bone pins to replace those. Oh, my Neck Relief was perfect and didn't require any adjustments. The thickness of typical 20 lb. paper ranges from.0035 to.004", while the range for neck relief is.004 to.006. To measure the middle-fret gap, hold the string down at the first and fourteenth frets. The string and fret should allow paper to flow through with ease.



Blisstime 2 Sets (4pcs) 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut Made of Real Bone with 3 Sand Paper Review:


I only used one saddle, and it worked perfectly. I just took a few millimeters off the bottom, and everything was fine. I checked the intonation, and it was perfect. I was debating dropping another millimeter or so, but because it was so perfect, I'm going to leave it as is. The motion is still simple, but as I become older, I play down in the thin frets sloppier (lazier). I have an old acoustic guitar that I used to travel with when I was in the Navy, therefore I didn't use the nut. I thought I'd replace the nut when I repaired the bridge because it still sounds good but the bridge is beginning to lift after spending so many years in and out of humid conditions.



GraphTech PT606000 TUSQ XL Black Self-Lubricating Slotted Nut, Epiphone Style Review:


I bought this to see if it would improve my tuning stability, and it really helped. Even with a lot of bends, I don't seem to need to retune after every song.On my 2005 Epi Les Paul, it fit on the whole fairly well. Although it's not quite drop in, I did have to sand a little, verify the fit, and then sand some more to get the height right. Before gluing, I used 800 grit sandpaper to fine-tune the fit. Since this was the first time I had ever replaced a nut by myself, I took my time and kept checking the fit.I sanded the sides to modify the overall length to make it fit flush with the neck once it was put in (and after masking off areas surrounding the nut). Again, I used 800 grit because I didn't want to take too much at once.As long as you go slowly and work patiently, it is a generally simple task to perform and well worth the small amount of money you would spend on this nut. Graphtech has a good youtube video, as well as Stewmac and a billion other how-to videos.Once finished, the sound of your guitar will astonish you. This nut comes highly recommended.



GraphTech PT500000 TUSQ XL Black Self-Lubricating Slotted Nut, Fender Style Review:


This was my initial buy for an Indonesian-made Squier Strat (SSS). This was the curved nut, and I required the flat nut for my Squier, which I had to buy separately (great service from Amazon on this one).I used an X-Acto knife to cut into the edges of the old nut to loosen it, and then I tapped a tiny piece of wood on either side of the nut to further loosen it in order to remove it. Once the old nut began to loosen, taking it off was simple. After removing any remaining old adhesive (mine was gooey), I pre-fit the new nut. The new (flat) nut matched up exactly with the old nut I removed and fit nicely (when I put them side to side, holding them up). I bonded it by brushing in a small bit of wood glue. I gave the guitar a few days of solitude to ensure that it had fully healed before stringing it back up (I was also busy).So, was the work to modify the nut worthwhile? Absolutely! First off, it's quite simple. Second of all, when I tune, my strings no longer bind and twang loudly. The sustain has been somewhat enhanced, and tuning is considerably smoother. I'm not sure how much of the sound shift or sustain was caused by the nut and how much was caused by the new GraphTech saddles or GFS Steel block I placed. But I can say that the sound and sustain were significantly improved after doing these things. However, I can credit this nut for smoother bending and better tune.



Graph Tech PQL-6010-00 TUSQ XL Pre-Slotted TUSQ Self-Lubricating Gibson Electric Style Guitar Nut, Flat Bottom Review:


My 2016 Gibson SG Standard has some tuning stability concerns, which I fairly quickly identified as being caused by the strings binding in the nut. Evidently, this is a common issue. Gibson, you're to blame!I did some research on the manufacturer's website before purchasing this item to make sure it was the right one. The string slots were properly aligned. The directions were simple to understand. I only needed to sand a tiny bit off the bottom to make the height just right and a tiny bit off the sides to get the width just perfect. I'm not sure if it actually enhanced my tone, but the tuning stability problems were definitely resolved. I spent around 30 minutes on the entire task, and I took my time. I'm quite proud of myself, and the product also deserves some praise. :-)By the way, you may test if this is what you need if you're having trouble with tuning stability by pressing down on each string above the nut on the tuner side. Your string should go sharply when you apply pressure. When you let go, it ought to immediately tune back in. If it continues to be sharp, you have a nut binding issue. Without success, I tried some nut lube from a guitar store. The solution was to replace the nut.



Blisstime 2 Sets (4pcs) 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut, Made of Real Bone with 9 Pcs Sand Paper, Stainless Steel Needle Files of 13 Sizes Review:


These fit Jasmine S34C almost perfectly. The saddle fit perfectly; although somewhat lower than the saddle it replaced, this was acceptable. A small amount of sanding was necessary for the nut. Although I didn't use the files (and I didn't pay for them), they don't seem to be of particularly great quality. Several sheets of sandpaper, which was excellent. The materials are simple to shape as needed.The tone slightly adjusted, mostly bringing out the midrange and calming down some of the brightness. also a little bit better sustain. I'm glad I made the adjustment since I believe it helped my guitar sound a little better. Excellent quality, perfect fit.



Graph Tech PQL-5010-00 TUSQ XL Self-Lubricating Guitar Nut, Fender Style, Flat Bottom Review:


I've used a variety of nuts throughout the years, but I switched to using graphite nuts on practically all of my guitars a few years ago (electric and acoustic). I've tried a variety of brands, but I exclusively use Tusk Graphtechs these days since they are slipperier and improve the tone of the guitar better than any other kind I've ever used. Although it may seem unimportant, practically every component of a guitar—regardless of how small—affects the tone. At this point, PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THIS. Nearly every guitar sold today may use Graphtec's Tusk nuts, which are made specifically for each guitar. They have a chart showing which nut goes with which guitar on their website. If you don't, you'll have to spend a lot of time fine-sanding and filing to get the fit just perfect. Due to their 9.5 fretboard radius, I've discovered that this is even more true with Fender Strats. The radius of Strat nut slots is one thing that many people are unaware of. To be more precise, American Standard and MIM Strats are very unlike to one another and will not fit properly in the other. I recently helped someone out by changing the nut on a Mexican Strat. The one he purchased wasn't even close to the size of an American Standard. It would be much more expensive for him if I had to spend several hours sanding and filing it to fit correctly because it's a real pain in the rear as the specs need to be exactly right for a correct fit, and I would have had to charge more than the actual cost of a new nut to do it. So, I suggested that he return it for the correct sized one. I will eventually use these nuts on all of my guitars because they are the best I've ever used in terms of quality. Once more, make sure you obtain the right one for your specific guitar by visiting the Graphtec website before making a purchase.


Does guitar nut material affect tone?

The material of a guitar nut can affect the tone of the instrument. A harder material like bone can help to brighten the tone, while a softer material like synthetic bone can help to mellow it out. The type of string also makes a difference – nylon strings will produce a different tone than steel strings. Ultimately, it is up to the player to experiment with different materials and strings to find the combination that produces the sound they are looking for.

How do I know what size nut my guitar has?

There are a few ways to determine the size of the nut on your guitar. The most accurate way would be to measure the width of the nut with a caliper. Another way would be to look at the size of the string trees on your guitar. If the string trees are small, then most likely the nut is also small. The last way would be to look at the size of the tuning machines on your guitar. If the tuning machines are small, then the nut is probably also small.

How do I know what size nut to buy?

There is no definitive answer to this question as it depends on a number of factors, such as the type of nut, the application and the desired result. However, a few tips on how to select the right size nut can be found below. Firstly, it is important to consider the type of nut. For example, a hex nut will require a different size wrench than a wing nut. Secondly, the application should be taken into account. Nuts used in construction or machinery will need to be stronger and more durable than those used for decorative purposes. Finally, it is

How much does it cost to have a nut replaced on a guitar?

The average cost for a Guitar Nut Replacement is between $75 and $150. The exact price depends on the guitar, the type of nut, and the luthier.

How tight should guitar nut be?

The guitar nut is a small strip of bone, ivory, plastic, or metal that is positioned at the headstock end of the guitar neck. Its main function is to act as a spacer between the strings and the fretboard, and it also determines the spacing of the strings. The nut needs to be tight enough so that the strings don't buzz when you play them, but not so tight that it's difficult to move the strings around. You'll need to experiment a bit to find the perfect balance.

Is a wider guitar nut easier to play?

A wider guitar nut may be easier to play for some guitarists because it provides more space between the strings. This can make it easier to finger individual notes and chords, and may also make string bends easier. However, a wider nut can also make it more difficult to play fast runs and licks, as the strings may be further apart. Ultimately, it is up to the individual guitarist to decide whether a wider or narrower nut is easier to play.