How hard is it to replace a car door? It depends on the car. Some car doors are very easy to replace, while others can be quite difficult. If you are not mechanically inclined, it is probably best to take your car to a mechanic to have the door replaced.
It takes about an hour to replace a car door. You will need to remove the old door and then install the new one.
The cost to fix a bent car door will vary depending on the severity of the damage and the make and model of the car. In most cases, the cost will be between $200 and $1000.
4.9/5
Fits Chevrolet Blazer ( S-10 Model ONLY) - 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003
Fits GMC Jimmy ( S-15 Model Only) - 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001; Oldsmobile Bravada - 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001
Fits GMC S15 Pickup - 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004
Fits Chevrolet S10 Pickup - 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004
Fits GMC Sonoma - 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004
$234
Despite the weight of a Chevy door, these hinge pins can support it. placed on my 1999 Chevrolet Blazer's front driver door. Utilizing substantial channel locks and an appropriate-sized socket, carefully install the bushings. They could break if placed too firmly since they are constructed of a weaker metal than the hinge pins and the hinge. This is intentional so that the bushing and not the hinge is damaged by the hinge pin.
4.6/5
8 ends to repair 4 door cables, Easy to Install by yourself in few minutes, no need to replace the expensive door cables, save a barrel of money from over buying the OEM parts.
Made from premium grade polished billet aluminum 6061 T6, heavy-duty but light weight. Can be used to fix both broken door cables in single door, cargo door, liftgate, suicide door, tailgate, rear hatch, etc.
Great suit for 1992 - 2013 E-Series Vans (all); 1992 - 2013 F-Series truck (F-150, F-250, and F-350); '97 - '03 Expedition ; The Glass and Door of the rear tailgate for '03 - '05 Explorer; '98 - '02 Lincoln Navigator; '92 - '13 Ford Ranger; '97 - '04 Mazda B-Series Trucks
Come with a Easy Installation Guide,or some How-To videos can be found online for instructions on installing this product. Back by Richday lifetime Warranty.
6 Standard Ends and 2 LOCKING CAM End included, Permanently replacement to last the lifetime of the car, never need to replace these again.
$234
Not all of the latch mechanism had to be taken out. Even after pulling on the cable, the top clasp would not release. Interior door handle, post panels, and door panel were removed. Until I released the bottom lock with the bottom cable and the top latch with the upper cable, the door would not open. removed the three screws holding the top mechanism in place. There was no need for drilling or spreading, in contrast to other movies I saw. The latch repair piece fit over the cable sheathing easily, and I then turned a quarter turn to tighten it. This repair part comes highly recommended.
4.3/5
PACKAGE INCLUDES: 6 x Standard Ends,2 x Cam style Ends.One Cam style locking cable repair end so that the cable bracket does not need to be bent into place.
FITMENT: 1992-2013 E-Series Vans(all),1992-2013 F-Series truck(F-150,F-250,F-350),1997-2003 Expedition,The Glass and Door of the rear tailgate for 2003-2005 Explorer,1998-2002 Lincoln Navigator,1992-2013 Ford Ranger,1997-2004 Mazda B-Series Trucks.
EASY TO INSTALL: Use this kit to permanently repair 4 Ford door cables,Installs in just minutes,there are many vedios about how to install online.
MATERIAL: CNC machined solid billet aluminum 6061 T6.Which is more durable than the plastic one.
REPLACES OEM PART NUMBER: F2UZ-15266A46-A.Use this kit to permanently fix both broken door cables in a single door,cargo door,liftgate,suicide door,tailgate,rear hatch,etc.
$234
Our Ford F-350's suicide doors failed twice within a few months of one another. We said, "Well, guess we simply have to reach the back from the passenger side," when the first one wouldn't open. Then? The other door then made the decision to remain closed as well.Both of the suicide doors were imperviously latched at the top. We tried everything, including using muscle and WD40, before turning to YouTube, our trusted source of all knowledge. It turns out that Ford pulls a nasty trick on all truck buyers by using tiny, difficult-to-reach parts that will eventually break. Expect to spend over $400 if you visit a dealership to fix something that you can fix yourself in an afternoon using this kit.Was it a simple task? No. But now that we've replaced the brittle OEM Ford parts with this durable, indestructible aluminum kit, it will be the last time we do it.It's not exactly how I'd like to spend an afternoon, but at least I know we won't be doing it again. Dissecting a suicide door isn't exactly how I'd like to spend an afternoon.I say DO IT. This kit includes enough ferrules to install both wires on each door. While the other cable continued to work and unlatched the other latch, a slight amount of pressure caused the required components to crumble, indicating that a second failure was imminent. When the interior of your suicide door has been exposed, replace the ends of both cables and be confident that your suicide doors are now just as sturdy as the beast Ford you drive.
4.2/5
What you will get are 4 cable ends (3 Standard ends and 1 CAM style end) and 100% satisfaction customer care
4 ends permanently repairs two cables, Installs in just Minutes and saves TIME and MONEY!
Fits the 1998 to 2002 Lincoln Navigator, 1992 to 2013 F-Series truck (F-150, F-250, and F-350), 1992 to 2013 E-Series Vans (all), 1997 to 2003 Expedition, the glass and tailgate for 2003 to 2005 Explorer, 1992 to 2013 Ford Ranger, 1997 to 2004 Mazda B-Series Trucks
Made from premium grade polished billet aluminum 6061 T6
Make sure that the door, tailgates or window actuator of your car is a cable and the cable ends size is the same with our aluminum ends
$234
The OEM wires on my Mazda B4000 pulled through the door handle, so I purchased these. The picture is exact. It was a lot of work installing everything. To clean and lubricate, I took the upper and lower door latches off. I then understood that the special one was made especially for the upper latch. The components fit extremely tightly and must be fitted entirely over the cable end's vinyl covering. The bottom cable end securely snapped onto the door lock. Once it was positioned on the door latch, the higher cable end slid into place. The work became challenging near the door handle. I didn't want to drill out the rivets and replace them because the door handle is welded in place. If I had, the repair would have been lot simpler. On the door handle, the original cable ends were secured with guillotine-style clips. The handle's interior is hidden by the inner wall of the door, therefore a scribe was needed to open the guillotine-style clips from the outside. Each wire end had to be secured while I blindly used MacGyver-style tricks to use a hooked scribe to shut the guillotine-style clip. The cable ends were secured once closed in the same manner as the originals. I managed to finish the fix without drilling out the rivets in the door handle, however it did take some effort and exceptional dexterity. I shouldn't ever have to replace these. Maybe in the future, there will be another door. Purchase these goods with the knowledge that they won't instantly snap into place. To reach the guillotine-style clips on the inside of the door handle, you might opt to drill out and re-rivet the door handle in place.
4.2/5
EASY TO INSTALL: Use this kit to permanently repair 2 Ford door cables,Installs in just minutes,there are many vedios about how to install online.
FITMENT: 1992-2013 E-Series Vans(all),1992-2013 F-Series truck(F-150,F-250,F-350),1997-2003 Expedition,The Glass and Door of the rear tailgate for 2003-2005 Explorer,1998-2002 Lincoln Navigator,1992-2013 Ford Ranger,1997-2004 Mazda B-Series Trucks.
MATERIAL: CNC machined solid billet aluminum 6061 T6.Which is more durable than the plastic one.
PACKAGE INCLUDES: 3 x Standard Ends,1 x Cam style End.One Cam style locking cable repair end so that the cable bracket does not need to be bent into place.
REPLACES OEM PART NUMBER: F2UZ-15266A46-A.Use this kit to permanently fix both broken door cables in a single door,cargo door,liftgate,suicide door,tailgate,rear hatch,etc.
$234
I inquired about the cost of fixing my stuck door with my mechanic (2005 F-150 extended cab). He stated the cost of the part along without missing a beat. That was excessive. I looked online for a cheaper answer to my issue and discovered one. I watched a YouTube video that demonstrated how to fix this issue quite quickly. These metal bits allowed me to fix the cords. I worked on it for around 5 hours in all, including breaks and 2 trips to the hardware shop for tools. If the other door breaks, I believe I could repair it in under an hour. Excellent value for money! I spent $8 on these end pieces ($4/door) and $13 on supplies to complete the repair. Outstanding return on my investment!One word of caution: in order to slide the gaps over the sheathing, you will probably need to make them larger. Additionally, put on a good set of mechanics gloves. I created some burrs by using my screwdriver to further pry apart the spaces. When you work the new components into place without gloves, you could cut your hands. Otherwise, give it a try after watching a video or two. It's a rather simple fix.
4.1/5
Ready to install - includes all hardware necessary to replace the original trim
Direct replacement - this window pillar was designed to match the fit and finish of the stock pillar trim to restore the appearance of your vehicle's exterior
Excellent value - Original equipment quality at a lower price
Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Amazon Garage
Quality tested - has undergone testing to ensure proper fit and finish
$234
I'll always be aware that it is a little thicker and has a different texture than the OEM trim because I put it on. But it's snug, and I probably wouldn't have noticed the difference if I hadn't put it on myself. I'm hoping that even though it was difficult to fit into the slots and push down into place, this one won't fly off onto the freeway! Overall, it's worth the expense at roughly half the price of a dealership or parts store.
4.1/5
Direct replacement - this window pillar was designed to match the fit and finish of the stock pillar trim to restore the appearance of your vehicle's exterior
Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Garage
Quality tested - has undergone testing to ensure proper fit and finish
Ready to install - includes all hardware necessary to replace the original trim
Excellent value - Original equipment quality at a lower price
$234
I got this component to replace one that finally flew off when I was traveling down the highway. I would have pulled over and attempted to rescue it if I had known that the dealer would charge $93 to replace it. I made the decision to find the part on my own after learning the dealer's price. Fortunately, I was able to get this one on Amazon for close to 50% cheaper. The driver's side front door will use this component. The component fastens to one screw on the inside of the door. It is also attached using two sticky strips.Following are the steps to installing the component. REMAIN THE ADHESIVE COVERS IN PLACE FOR NOW! I discovered that this is the best course of action. It was quite challenging for me because I did it differently and exposed the adhesive first. To get it correct, I had to replace the adhesive cover strips. First, slide the two square padding stickers that surround the two brackets onto the car. In order to get the brackets to fit into the "holes" (I'm not sure how to define this portion) on the car, I discovered that removing these cushioned stickers was the simplest method. To put both brackets into position, you will need to delicately bend the panel. Then, insert the screw (which has a star head rather than a Phillips head) after making sure the screw hole coincides with the panel's screw peg. Pull the adhesive cover strips from the panel once it is in position. You can pull the additional length of cover strip that should protrude from the top. To get the adhesive to adhere, give the panel a little more pressure now.
3.9/5
38448
Door & Windows Accessories
Dorman
$234
My 1994 Ford F-150 XL, which I bought brand new, started to grotesquely shake when it encountered potholes. Since the truck spends most of its time in my garage, I hardly ever drive it, but I just don't recall the doors being this loose when the truck was brand new. A Google search revealed that the door striker bolt's missing plastic covering was the root of the problem. I bought two replacement bolts (Dorman 38448) from Amazon.com, changed them, and the door rattles stopped immediately.Other reviewers' advice to mark the round portion of the old door striker bolt assembly proved to be very helpful in determining where the new bolt should go. The Torx T47 Bit Socket was the appropriate size, according to another reviewer. According to my research on numerous truck forums, the Torx T50 is the required size. I got the T50 and T47 Torx bits from Amazon.com to make sure I had the right size. While the T47 bit might function, I found it to be a touch too loose during a test fit when they arrived. In contrast, the T50 was a much better and snugger fit than the T47 Torx bit. Therefore, the Torx T50 is the appropriate size required to install the door striker bolt for anyone in my situation or a similar circumstance.
3.4/5
38433
Dorman
Door & Windows Accessories
$234
This is a nice design that might even outperform the original. also seems to be stronger. Only time will tell. It wasn't some random reseller; it was from Amazon.com LLC.Due to spring pressure, our initial roller SHEERED off. Since just being stressed caused it to shatter, I can only conclude it was a manufacture defect. I finally got together with my body shop technician to get it installed over the weekend after having it on my to-do list for six months. It took longer than we expected—an hour and a half. That was partially brought on by tool issues.- NOTE: I was mistaken about this thing. It's not a hinge pin, unlike what I thought. Both hinge pins stay in position when THIS "roller" pin is replaced, thus no one else is required to hold the door open. It's true that I needed this piece, however it doesn't appear to be supporting the door's weight at all.Except that it also seems to influence the door lock engaging properly, THIS pin is just intended to hold the door in its detent locking positions. The replacement of this roller pin seemed to have fixed our issue with the door wanting to open while we were driving.-The installation itself...STEP 1...My mechanic opted to use a sawzall to make two cuts in the old pin (tight fit). He chopped the top mushroom portion after cutting the pin's centre. Unfortunately, the pieces were immediately caught in the fender (rattle,rattle,rattle). The components came out easily when he removed two bolts—one from below and one from inside the hinge area. It was useless to try to fish it with a magnet. Additionally, now is a good time to remove pine needles and other debris from your drain area.-Step 2... The hinge and top post were easily compatible. Trying to hammer the replacement back in proved to be difficult. So, he pulled out his grinder and removed a small portion of the edge off the ridges on the Pin's bottom half. He only lightly touched the teeth, sort of grazing them. Viola! The pin began to turn, and it only needed a small amount of hammering with a 1/4" extension to secure it into place. The secret to success was that. He then set up the C-clip, and we gave it a go. It was flawless.He put the fender nuts back together, and I was ready to go!The lock no longer appears to get caught on the stud, and the door now shuts and locks correctly. Now, the door maintains its alternative opening positions. Evidently, there was absolutely no issue with the hinge pins themselves.-To sum up: Good Product, Good Price. When I initially open the door, the pin does feel a little stressed, so I'm going to oil it up.
A car door is a hinged panel that allows entry into and exit from a vehicle. Doors are also used to seal the interior from the exterior of the vehicle. There are typically two doors on the front of a car and two at the rear. However, some cars have three doors, with one door on each side and a third door on the driver’s side. This third door is called a “clamshell†door and provides access to the back seat.
Butterfly doors are a type of door often seen on sports cars. They are called butterfly doors because they open up and out, like a butterfly's wings. Butterfly doors can make getting in and out of a car easier, and they can also make a car look more stylish.
The DeLorean DMC-12 is a sports car that was manufactured by the DeLorean Motor Company for the model year 1981. The car is notable for its gull-wing doors.
Lambo doors are also called scissor doors, because they open like a pair of scissors. They are named after Lamborghini, an Italian sports car company, because Lamborghini was the first car company to use this type of door on a production car.
The McLaren doors are also called the dihedral doors.
Tesla doors are officially called "falcon wing" doors by the company, and they're one of the most distinctive features on the Model X SUV. The doors are hinged at the base of the A-pillar and open upward, similar to how a bird's wing opens. The doors have several sensors that allow them to open and close automatically, and they can also be opened manually.
COPYRIGHT © 2019
