Best Automotive Doors in 2020

XtremeAmazing Door Hinge Pins Kit 2 Door 4 Pin for 1994-2004 Chevy S10 & GMC S15 Review:

Chevy doors are heavy, but these hinge pins will hold them. installed on my front driver door of 99 chevy blazer. Carefully install the bushings using large channel locks and an appropriately sized socket. They are made of a softer metal than the hinge pins and the hinge, so they could break if inserted too forcefully. This is by design, so that the hinge pin eats away at the bushing rather than the hinge.

Car Door OEM Cable Fix Replacement Part for Ford F-series, E-series, Ranger, Expedition, Excursion, Navigator - Vehicle Door Latch Lock Cable Repair Kit (6 satandard Ends and 2 Locking Cam ) Review:

Did not have to remove entire latch mechanism. Top latch would not release, even when I pulled on cable. Removed interior door handle, post panels and door panel. Door would not open until I pulled on bottom cable releasing bottom latch then pulled on upper cable releasing top latch. Removed three screws attaching top mechanism. Unlike other videos I watched, no drilling or spreading was required. I was able to slip the latch repair piece over the cable sheathing then secure it in place with a quarter turn. Highly recommend this repair item.

iFJF Door Cable Repair Kit with Cam Piece for Ford F-series E-series Ranger Expedition Excursion Navigator Latch Lock Handle Billet Aluminum(8 Ends for 4 cables) Review:

The suicide doors on our Ford F-350 both failed within months of each other. When the first one wouldn’t open we were like “Well, guess we just gotta access the back from the passenger side.” Then? Well then the other door decided not to open either.
Both suicide doors were latched at the top, and they wouldn’t budge. We tried everything from muscle to WD40, then turned to our faithful knower-of-all-the-things, YouTube. Turns out Ford plays a dirty trick on all truck buyers with tiny little, hard to access parts that inevitably fail. If you hit a dealership to fix what you can fix in an afternoon and this kit, expect to spend over $400.
Was this an easy task? No. But it’ll be the last time we do it, having replaced the crumbling factory Ford bits with this tough, eternal aluminum kit.
The dissection of a suicide door isn’t exactly my idea of the way I’d like to spend an afternoon, however, at least I know we won’t be doing it again.
This kit comes with enough ferrules to do both cables on each door, I say DO IT. While the other cable still functioned and undid the other latch, just a little pressure crumbled the necessary bits, so a 2nd failure was on the horizon. Once you have the guts to your suicide door exposed, change out the ends on both cables and know your suicide doors are now as sound as the beast Ford you drive.

Ford Door Cable Repair Kit Latch Lock Cable Ends Replacement for Ford F-series, E-series, Ranger, Expedition, Excursion, Navigator Review:

These were ordered because the OEM cables pulled through the door handle on my Mazda B4000. The image is exact. The installation was quite a chore. I removed the upper and lower door latched to clean and lubricate. That is when I realized the unique one was specifically designed for the upper latch. The items must be installed completely over the vinyl sheath of the cable end and they are very, very tight fit. The lower cable end snapped in place on the door latch perfectly. The upper cable end slipped in place once it was aligned on the door latch. The door handle is where the work got complicated. The door handle is riveted in place and I didn't want to drill out and replace the rivets. The repair would have been much easier if I had. The original cable ends were held in place on the door handle with guillotine style clips. The inner wall of the door covers the inside of the handle so opening the guillotine style clips was accomplished with a scribe from the outside. Each cable end had to be held in place while I blindly performed MacGyver style maneuvers to close the guillotine style clip using a hooked scribe. Once closed the cable ends were held in place just as the originals. I was able to complete the repair without drilling out the door handle rivets, but it did take time and unusual dexterity. I should never need to replace these again. The other door perhaps one day in the future. Purchase these items knowing this is not just a simple snap in place. You may prefer to drill out and re-rivet the door handle in place to access the guillotine style clips on the inside of the door handle.

iFJF Door Cable Repair Kit with Cam piece for Ford F-series E-series Ranger Expedition Excursion Navigator Latch Lock Handle Billet Aluminum (4 Ends for 2 cables) Review:

I asked my mechanic how much it would be to fix my stuck door (2005 F-150 extended cab). Without missing a beat he said the part along was around $275. That was too much. After doing a little internet searching I found a cheaper solution to my problem. There's a YouTube video that I watched that made this repair fairly simple. I was able to repair the cables with these metal pieces. It took me nearly 5 hours from start to finish -- there were multiple breaks and 2 trips to the hardware store for tools. I think I could fix the other door in under an hour if it breaks. Well worth the money!!! My repair cost me $8 for these end pieces ($4/door) and $13 in tools. Great return on my investment!

One word of caution, you will likely need to make the gaps bigger to be able to slide them over the sheathing. Also wear a good pair of mechanics gloves. Using my screwdriver to pry open the gaps more I caused some burrs. You might cut your hands without gloves when you work the new pieces into place. Otherwise, watch a video, or two, and give it a shot. It's a pretty easy repair.

Dorman 926-445 Black Door Applique Review:

Because I put it on, I’ll always notice it’s slightly thicker and a different texture than the OEM trim. But, it fits snug and if I hadn’t put it on myself I’d probably never know the difference. It was tough to get into the slots and pushed down into place, but I’m hoping that means this one won’t fly off on the interstate! Overall, for about half the cost from a dealership or parts store, it’s worth the cost.

Dorman 926-446 Black Door Applique Review:

I bought this part to replace one that came loose while driving down the expressway and eventually flew off. If I would have known that the dealer was going to charge $93 to replace it, I would have pulled over and tried to retrieve it. After finding out the dealer's price, I decided to find the part on my own. Luckily I found this one on Amazon for less than half the price. This part is for the driver's side front door. There is one screw on the inside of the door that the part attaches to. It also attaches with 2 strips of adhesive.

To install the piece, here is what you should do. DO NOT REMOVE THE ADHESIVE COVERS YET! I figured out this is the best way to do it. I did it differently and exposed the adhesive first and this made it very difficult. I ended up reapplying the adhesive cover strips to do it right. First, there are 2 square padding stickers around 2 brackets that will need to slide into place on the vehicle. I found that removing these padded stickers was the easiest way to get the brackets to fit into the "holes" (not sure how to describe this part) on the car. You'll have to carefully bend the panel to side both of the brackets into their places. Then make sure the screw hole lines up with the screw peg on the panel and screw in the screw (it's a star head, not philips). Once you get the panel into place, you can pull the adhesive cover strips off. There is extra length of cover strip that should stick out of the top that you can pull. Now push on the panel for a bit to get the adhesive to stick.

Dorman 38448 Door Striker Bolt Review:

The two doors on my 1994 Ford F-150 XL that I purchased new had begun to rattle horribly when it hit bumps in the road. I barely drive the truck as it spends most of its time in my garage but I just didn't remember the doors being so loose when the truck was newer. A Google search uncovered the cause with the plastic sleeve missing on the door striker bolt. I ordered two replacement bolts, Dorman 38448, from and replaced them and, voila, no more door rattles.

The suggestion by other reviewers of marking the round part of the old door striker bolt assembly was quite helpful in locating the proper placement of the new bolt. Another reviewer wrote that the Torx T47 Bit Socket was the size needed. My investigation on various truck forums found that the Torx T50 was said to be the needed size. Just to make I had the proper size Torx bit, I ordered both the T50 and T47 bits from While the T47 bit might work, in a test fit when they arrived I found it to be a little too loose but the T50 was a much better and more snug fit than the T47 Torx bit. So for anyone that finds themselves in my position, the Torx T50 is the correct size needed for installing the door striker bolt.

Dorman 38433 Door Roller Pin Review:

This is a nice design, potentially better than the original. Seems stronger as well. Time will tell. IT was purchased from LLC, not a random reseller.
Our original roller SHEERED off from the pressure of the spring. I can only assume a factory defect since mere stress caused it to break. It's been on my to-do list for 6 months and I finally got together with my body shop guy to get it installed over the weekend. We anticipated 20 minutes but it took an hour and a half. Part of that was due to tool problems.
- NOTE: I had a misconception about this item. I THOUGHT that it was a Hinge pin, but it IS NOT. When you replace THIS "roller" pin, both hinge pins remain in place and you DO NOT need an additional person to hold the door. This was indeed the part that I needed, but it does not seem to support the weight of the door at all.
THIS pin is solely for the purpose of holding the door in its detent locking positions, EXCEPT, it also appears to affect the door lock engaging correctly. We were having a problem with the door wanting to come open while driving which seems to have been resolved with the replacement of this roller pin.
The actual installation....STEP 1...My mechanic decided to make 2 CUTs in the old pin with a sawzall (tight fit). First he cut the middle of the pin, then he cut the top mushroom part. The pieces, unfortunately fell right into the fender (rattle,rattle,rattle). He took a couple of bolts out, one bolt inside the hinge area and another below, and the pieces fell right out. Trying to fish it with a magnet was useless. This is also a good time to clean out your drain area of pine needles and debris.
Step 2... The top post fit easily into the hinge. We had little success trying to hammer the replacement back in. So, he got his grinder out and shaved a bit of the edge off of the ridges on the bottom section of the Pin. He just kind of grazed the teeth a bit, a very light touch. Viola! The pin started and required just enough hammering with a 1/4" extension to lock it up into place. That was a key to success. Then, he installed the C-clip and we tried it out. It was perfect.
He re-assembled the fender bolts and I was good to go!
The door now shuts and locks properly and the lock no longer seems to get caught on the stud. The door now stays in its alternate opening angles. Apparently there was no problem with my actual hinge pins at all.
In conclusion: Nice Product, Nice price.
- I do sense a bit of stress on the pin when first opening the door, so I intend to grease it up.