Most circular saws can make cuts that are up to 2-1/2 inches deep. Some models can make deeper cuts, but these are generally intended for use with special blades. If you need to make a deeper cut than your saw can handle, you can make several shallow cuts instead.
There are a number of ways to improve your circular saw. You can start by ensuring that the blade is sharp and properly aligned. You can also improve the accuracy of your cuts by using a guide. Additionally, you can make your saw easier to use by investing in a good quality saw stand. Finally, you can improve the safety of your saw by following all of the manufacturer's safety instructions.
A typical circular saw blade will last anywhere from one to two years with regular use. However, if the blade is used for more demanding tasks or on tougher materials, it will likely need to be replaced more frequently. Additionally, if the blade is not properly cared for and cleaned, it will wear down quicker.
The number of teeth on a circular saw blade depends on the application. For example, a blade used for cutting through softwood would have fewer teeth than a blade used for cutting through hardwood. In general, the harder the material, the more teeth you will need on the blade.
4.6/5
Professional's choice
For use on worm drive saws
Convenient storage tube
Heavy duty lubricant
$234
My Ridgid worm/hypoid circular saw's seal started leaking, necessitating the draining and replacing of the gear oil. I'll be honest and say that determining the exact type of oil it needed took three times as long as fixing the leaky seal. Once I eventually discover the oil it required (Mobil SHC 636) it was quite difficult to locate it in a practical size. The material cost close to $250 for a 5 gallon pail.The saw continues to function flawlessly after three months of contractor-grade use. Therefore, this lubricant works just as well and costs much less than the suggested Mobil SHC 636.
4.2/5
Zero clearance track saw cutting system delivers precise, straight, splinter-free cuts
For perfectly straight cuts in both directions
track saw dual-edged tracks for perfectly straight cuts in both directions
$234
I considered the three main track saw brands before deciding on DeWalt based on a number of variables. 1. I've already registered with DeWalt. 2. Tracks are far less expensive than festool. Even though I possess Festool CT and Rotex Sanders, I wasn't going to buy a Festool battery system since I couldn't bear the rats' nest of hoses and power wires. I already use a Makita, but I went with DeWalt since I think the batteries are better and I'm not anti-kickback. The last time I used a Makita at work, it kicked back, cutting the cord off, and almost ran over my arm, but I was rushing and not paying attention at the time.After reading so many reviews that claimed linking two 59" tracks wouldn't work properly, I became concerned. However, I can see why having a full length track would be ideal. However, my laser says it's dead nuts straight when I linked two together using the Festool connector ($20; built in Germany) because the DeWalt ($30) wasn't available. It should be OK and there will be no need to pay large pucks for a giant piece of metal because I intend to precisely position the rails for long cuts and use the DeWalt clamps. The DeWalt bag is really good and functions like a double ski pack with interior Velcro straps to hold both rails. extremely transportable for storage and work. On this one, I highly suggest the DeWalt system!
4.1/5
Cut multiple pieces to the same size With just one setup
Take your saw to the material instead of having to take your material to the saw
Eliminate need for marking, measuring, and layout lines
Make rip cuts and crosscuts up to 24" Wide
Use the oversize edge guide for precise control throughout the cut
$234
Despite the fact that the rip fence is made of plastic and fastened to the metal scale with two screws, I should give this product five stars but am concerned about how durable it will be. That said, this device functions. It takes some time to get the scale, slide, and pointer lined up with the rip fence while setting up the Rip-Cut, but the work is definitely worth it. After I was happy with the setup, I tested it out by ripping a bit of MDF. The test piece's ultimate width was exactly in line with the scale setting. This means that if someone views YouTube demos of the tool and reads comments claiming that it is wrong, the tester or commentator most likely did not set the tool up properly. The saw may be stopped and started in the middle of a cut with no visible saw marks on the cut edge because to the tool's tight grip on the blade. I am certain that the tool will produce strips of a constant width when I use it to cut paneling into strips for a shiplap wall treatment. The money spent on the gadget so far has been more than worthwhile. But for how long will the device work?
4.1/5
Interacts with the saw base and engineered to deliver smooth, dead-on straight or bevel cutting
55" guide rail to be used with Makita SP6000J/J1 Plunge Saw
Ideal for ripping sheet material
Also use with select routers and saws using router adapter (194579-2) and saw adapter (196953-0)
$234
Despite the fact that the rip fence is made of plastic and fastened to the metal scale with two screws, I should give this product five stars but am concerned about how durable it will be. That said, this device functions. It takes some time to get the scale, slide, and pointer lined up with the rip fence while setting up the Rip-Cut, but the work is definitely worth it. After I was happy with the setup, I tested it out by ripping a bit of MDF. The test piece's ultimate width was exactly in line with the scale setting. This means that if someone views YouTube demos of the tool and reads comments claiming that it is wrong, the tester or commentator most likely did not set the tool up properly. The saw may be stopped and started in the middle of a cut with no visible saw marks on the cut edge because to the tool's tight grip on the blade. I am certain that the tool will produce strips of a constant width when I use it to cut paneling into strips for a shiplap wall treatment. The money spent on the gadget so far has been more than worthwhile. But for how long will the device work?
4/5
Non-skid, self-clamping strips: Dual clamping strips on the bottom prevent movement during the cutting operation, less setup time and better results.
Straight guidance: Easily create straight, splinter-free, glue ready joints when paired with TS Saws, or perfectly guided dados, flutes, or ploughs, with OF Routers.
System integration: A fully integrated system, use your Festool routers or jigsaw with the guide rail for expanded capability.
$234
Especially if you own a Festool track saw, this is the cure-all. It goes without saying that this would function flawlessly as it was produced by the same business that produced the saw. The benefit of using this guide is that it will always direct your cut in a straight line. You should buy in the DeWalt clamps that are interchangeable with the OEM Festool items and cost around half as much to maximise their utility. These clamps firmly fasten the guide rail to the piece of lumber of your choice.
3.9/5
Rip, crosscut, and make angled cuts up to 50" Long in plywood, MDF, and panels
Hold track in place without clamps thanks to anti-slip guide strips
Begin cuts easily with a starting block that the supports saw and allows normal blade guard operation,
Prevent splintering with anti-chip strips that support material during the cut
Simply align the guide Track with your marks to make accurate cuts
$234
I observed that there was play between the sled and the track as soon as I initially opened the package (enough to change the angle between the blade and the track at least a couple degrees). In light of my previous experience with Kreg tools, this is not what I was anticipating.To fix the problem On one side of the sled where the gap was, I applied thin layers of UV weld material (Bondic, 5 second fix, etc.) and repeated the process until the material was thick enough to just barely rub on the track. There was still some play after doing this, but the cut is better than I had anticipated.I wasn't sure how well the anti-slip strips would keep the track in place, but it holds the track in place very well. The track stays in place while sawing as long as there isn't a lot of sawdust between it and the work piece. Since I've only tested this on cabinet-grade birch plywood thus far, other materials may yield different outcomes.The anti-slip strips also function as an edge protector. In order to get the blade close to the ant-chip edge the first time you use it, you must first remove a little bit of material from the edge. This has a big impact on how much chipping happens.Although it doesn't perform as well as a Festool track saw, the price is unbeatable.
3.8/5
Splinter-free cuts with tear-out protection from anti-chip guide strips
Make the cuts you need – anywhere – by taking your saw to the workpiece instead of bringing the workpiece to a fixed saw location
No clamps needed thanks to Anti-slip guide strips that keep the track in place through the entire cut
Easily attaches to your left-blade or right-blade circular saw, and removes easily
Break down panels and plywood easily and quickly with cutting capacity up to 100"
$234
This is precisely what I anticipated for a track saw substitute that costs less than $500. The assembly was rather simple. So far, on one assignment, it has been shockingly precise and very accurate. However, because it is made of 4 components, I can see how the track accuracy may decline as it is kept, moved, and jostled over time. You can disassemble it for storage, but the set screw heads are so tiny that I doubt they could withstand many reassembles before they start to shred. If you intend to disassemble it after each usage, replacing them with Allen heads might be a good idea.On the sled, I've placed a 6 1/2" Milwaukee cordless. To get the blade guard to clear, I did have to slightly cut the sled with a dremel tool, but it wasn't a major concern and didn't hinder the function. The setup is good.If I had to list some drawbacks, I would say that it would be helpful for accuracy if the tracks came in set lengths. And the sled is made primarily of light to medium weight plastic. A sled with more aluminum in it would have cost me more money. Additionally, the set screws for the tracks are really bad.Overall, it's a terrific deal at $160.
3.7/5
AS LONG AS YOU NEED – Modular design allows for additional extrusions to be added which can expand the guide up to 100 inches. With the WTX clamping edge, you’ll save time and eliminate waste due to crooked, uneven cuts.
LOCKED IN - The adjustable clamp end slides up and down the saw guide to fit any material being cut, especially sheets of plywood. The locking handle grabs surfaces for a secure edge that won't budge.
CONTRACTOR’S COMPANION - This tool is made for use with the Bora WTX Saw Plate (sold separately), and can be conveniently paired with your own circular saws, routers, jig saws, and other power tools.
GET IT STRAIGHT – This rigid aluminum guide rail is a must-have accessory for keeping your cutting on track. Its long 50in length allows you to saw with precision and skill.
$234
Instead of a table saw, I purchased this Bora 50-inch model with a cordless 7-1/4" circular saw. Either the saw or the timber has to be moved. It can be difficult to move corded saws, but with this clamping saw-guide, it's frequently far simpler to move a 9 lb, 4 oz saw than a 75 lb board of plywood. A 7" "PolySquareTM" poly triangular quick-square makes it simple to fasten this saw guide quickly and accurately. I selected this design over the blue one and other options since it doesn't have the rust-prone steel rod running down the middle. It can sometimes sound like fingernails on a chalkboard when steel-rod style clamps squeal and bind. This one is hollow inside and made of aluminum and plastic. No rust here! It appears to clamp firmly enough to complete the task and is quiet.I recently became aware of "shooting boards," which are circular-saw guides made from scrap wood by YouTube users. So that you always have the ideal edge of your blade to line up to, they glue the guide to a piece of thinner board and then saw that to get the precise distance from the guide. While convenience is gained, a tiny bit of your saw's cutting depth capacity is lost.It's simple to multiply by 5" to account for the distance between the blade and shoe edge on my saw. I'm just getting acclimated to a new method of working. This is not comparable to a track saw, but it has given me the capacity to quickly and simply cut absolutely straight and square with a hand-held circular saw. This is a phenomenon I had never seen before, and it continues to wow me.To make something ride in the channel(s) of this Bora Saw-Guide, you could construct your own track plate for your saw's shoe, however as long as you're careful and alert, it works quite well without any tweaking. I can't imagine cutting sheets without it because it's so quick and easy to clamp down and direct my hand. I wish I had learned about this earlier because it's a requirement for any circular saw. Despite being semi-long, it is so light that using a triangle-square to square it up straight is a pleasure. Because it is so much lighter than any homemade "shooting board," it can be done with just one hand.It arrived well packed in a sturdy cardboard tube. Because aluminum is such a soft material, I was concerned that the edge would readily ding. Even though the hanging hole (in the handle) works quite well, allowing it to sit flat on the wall (the handle bends a little when hanging, so it's pleasant), I will keep this cardboard-tube mailer to store it in my trailer while I'm on the road. Except for a few spots where I had to laboriously polish with naphtha, my edge was immaculate.
3.7/5
GET IT STRAIGHT – This rigid aluminum guide rail is a must-have accessory for keeping your cutting on track. Its long 100 inch length allows you to saw with precision and skill
AS LONG AS YOU NEED – Modular design allows for additional extrusions to be added which can expand the guide up to 100 inches. With the WTX clamping edge, you’ll save time and eliminate waste due to crooked, uneven cuts
CONTRACTOR’S COMPANION - This tool is made for use with the Bora WTX Saw Plate (sold separately), and can be conveniently paired with your own circular saws, routers, jig saws, and other power tools
100 INCHES OF CUTTING - With your purchase you will receive a 50" Clamp and 50" Extension, connect the pieces together for 100 inches of straight cuts
LOCKED IN - The adjustable clamp end slides up and down the saw guide to fit any material being cut, especially sheets of plywood. The locking handle grabs surfaces for a secure edge that won't budge
$234
You either have to move the wood, or the saw; corded saws can be difficult to move; however, with this clamping saw-guide, it's frequently much easier to move a 9 lb, 4 oz saw, rather than moving a 75 lb sheet of plywood. With the help of a 7" "PolySquareTM"poly triangular quick-square, it's a cinch to clamp this saw-guide fast and straight. I selected this design over the blue one and other options since it doesn't have the rust-prone steel rod running down the middle. This clamp is aluminum against plastic and hollow inside its length, which to me makes it sound like fingernails on a chalkboard while steel-rod-style clamps whine and bind occasionally. No rust here! It appears to clamp firmly enough to complete the task and is quiet.I recently became aware of "shooting boards," which are circular-saw guides made from scrap wood by YouTube users. So that you always have the ideal edge of your blade to line up to, they glue the guide to a piece of thinner board and then saw that to get the precise distance from the guide. While convenience is gained, a tiny bit of your saw's cutting depth capacity is lost.This isn't in the same league as a track-saw, but it has given me the ability to easily cut perfectly straight and square, with a hand-held circular saw, which is priceless to me - it's a phenomenon I've never before known, and it still boggles my mind. It's just a new way of working that I'm not yet used to.It works very well without any tinkering, as long as you're careful and attentive. It's a prerequisite to any circular saw - only wish I'd known about this earlier.I was worried that because aluminum is so soft, the edge would get gouged easily, but it came packaged really well, in a heavy duty circular cardboard tube. I will keep this cardboard-tube mailer to store it in my trailer, on the road, even though it's hanging hole (in the handle) works exceptionally well, allowing it to lay flat against the wall (the handle bends a little when hanging, so it's nice).
3.7/5
For Skil HD77 and HD77M Worm Drive Skil Saw
Trigger type switch with 4 internal terminals
Voltage: 125/250V
Skil Saw Replacement Switch replaces Skil 2610321608
Amperage: 15/10A
$234
I bought this component from Amazon. It arrived on time and came with a wiring diagram. There were a few unanticipated bugs in the installation, which I'll mention here for everyone's knowledge. (Remember that my saw, a Skil 77 Type 14 made in 1974 or 1975, is an old one. It's possible that newer 77s won't be the same as mine.) First, unlike the new switch, the original switch had connections on the top and bottom rather than the rear. It wasn't a great deal to install new crimp-on ring connectors and shorten some lines as a result. Second, the new switch had an attachment flange that was noticeably thicker than the one on the old switch (the one with the two screw holes). I gradually removed material with a die grinder from the proper boss within the saw handle cover so that it would clamp down on the attachment flange without preventing the handle cover from fully seated. The switch itself is excellent (the baggie had a Bosch label on it), and I would cheerfully give it a five-star rating if the Amazon description had mentioned that some little adjustments could be necessary for this application.
A good circular saw will cost you around $100. However, if you want a top-of-the-line model, you could spend up to $300.
It is not recommended to cut wet wood with a circular saw as it can cause the saw blade to bind and kickback.
A saw is a tool that's used to cut through materials like wood and metal. It consists of a blade with teeth that are sharpened to create a cutting edge. The more teeth a saw blade has, the finer the cut will be. So if you're looking for a smooth, precise cut, then you'll want to choose a saw blade with more teeth.
There are three main types of circular saw blades: rip, crosscut, and combination. Rip blades are designed for cutting along the length of a board, while crosscut blades are designed for cutting across the grain. Combination blades are designed for both types of cuts.
A 100 tooth saw blade is used for making extremely smooth cuts in wood. The blade has very small teeth that are arranged in a spiral pattern. This type of blade is typically used by carpenters and other woodworkers who need to make clean, precise cuts.
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