High oil pressure is not necessarily harmful to an engine, but it can be an indication of a serious problem. If the oil pressure is consistently high, it could be caused by a faulty oil pump, clogged oil filter, or blockage in the oil passages. These conditions can cause serious engine damage.
You can run a high volume oil pump in a stock engine, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, the pump will increase oil pressure, which can lead to leaks if your engine isn't designed to handle it. Second, the increased flow can cause the oil to foam, which can reduce its ability to lubricate and cool the engine. Finally, make sure the pump is compatible with your oil filter.
High volume oil pumps are designed to increase the pressure of oil in an engine, which can lead to better performance. In most cases, a high volume oil pump will not increase pressure by itself, but will work in conjunction with other engine modifications to achieve this goal.
5/5
Melling 10355
$234
A 2007 Escalade experienced a low oil pressure problem. The Variable Valve Timing was unable to function correctly because the oil pressure was too low. As a result, the dash displayed a Stabilitrac warning message and the check engine light. I went with this Melling oil pump because I've always used them successfully, and this time was no exception. Before I changed the pump, the oil pressure at idling was 6 Psi. The pickup tube's O-ring was obviously damaged when I took out the old oil pump. I put in the Melling pump and the O-ring that came with the new oil pump. I had a 65 Psi oil pressure when I first started the car. The pressure was 22 Psi at idle after warming up. When you pull the Melling pump out of the package, you will immediately notice its high quality. It resolved the VVT problem and offers sufficient oil pressure across the whole RPM range.
4.6/5
10296
Oil Pumps
MELLING
$234
Everything needed for installing the oil pump was included in the package. For the water pump and front cover, I did need to buy a separate gasket set. Considering that this motor has 130000 miles on it, I did replace the water pump at the same time. When the factory oil pump broke and the relief valve became stuck open, I was traveling by car. When I poured some Marvel Mystery Oil through the motor, it did free up, but I still decided to replace the pump. I've included images showing the pressure readings that the stock pump has always given me. In the winter, I used to observe a 28 to 25 psi range at full temperature. Because of the oil cooler, the PSI for the HD package was always on the low side. I'm seeing close to 40 psi after installing the oil pump at full temperature. The new water pump, complete coolant flush, 180 degree t-stat, and other changes have all resulted in slightly lower temperatures. Overall, I'm extremely pleased with this oil pump, which I recently installed. Although I haven't put any miles on it yet, I know it will hold up. Melling is renowned for its high-quality goods. It will endure the test of time, I'm sure of that. Overall, the installation took me two days, however there were several difficulties. I did forego removing the oil pan and front differential in order to reach the bolt holding the collector in for around eight hours each day. At first, I was able to remove that bolt by using a 10 millimeter wrench that was bent. I then secured some fish thread to it and used a hook tool to back it out the remaining distance. It required a lot of patience, but it succeeded. I used a lot of red Loctite and inserted the bolt in the hole that is more accessible when I reinstalled it. I also added a washer so it would force the tube into the oil pump.
4.6/5
AMC/Jeep 150/199/232/242/258 (2.5/4.0/4.2L) Engines
$234
You might need the MCAT-62 tool and a 2 lb sledge hammer to carefully drive the delicate oil screen pick up tube into this pump if you're doing it yourself. Consider adding the tool to your budget along with the oil screen because it is not inexpensive, or look for a technician who has the MCAT-62 tool and a 2 LB sledge hammer.Connect the tool to the screen tube, place the tube next to the pump on a surface made of rubber (not in a vise), and lightly touch the tool. With the MCAT-62 tool, everything comes together flawlessly, but without it... I wish you luck in successfully putting the large screen tube (5/8") into this pump without hurting yourself or the tube. FYI If you're thinking along those lines, heet (methyl alcohol; yellow bottle) and dry ice (poor man's liquid nitrogen) couldn't make the screen tube cold enough to shrink and fit into the pump.
4.5/5
Oil Pump - Wet Sump - Internal - Standard Volume - GM LS-Series - Each
$234
My 2005 Chevy Avalanche Z71 4x4 LTZ Flex Fuel Truck's ticking beneath the hood was completely fixed by the oil pump.Everyone told me that I had several symptoms that were caused by a lifter knock. I was informed that the lifters and camshaft needed to be changed in order to stop it. These were the symptoms I was experiencing:under the hood, workingfluctuating oil pressure gauge (falls to zero when the engine is idle or it's cold, and fluctuates constantly while driving)I knew it wasn't the oil pressure sensor because I had replaced it. I began the project, but I waited to purchase any parts until I had removed the oil pan and plate underneath, checked the oil pan for metal shavings, and examined the camshaft through the oil pan. I physically turned the engine so that I could examine the camshaft. It appeared glassy and smooth. I was certain that lifter knock was not the cause because the oil pan contained no metal shavings. (In this case, a sizable quantity of metal shavings is required; mine lacked any.)Instead, I made the decision to replace the oil pump and o-ring. The clock stopped after a solid week of effort (which included ordering and awaiting parts). The issue was the oil pump. There is no longer any ticking. In fact, my truck runs more smoothly now than it did when I initially acquired it. Since my vehicle had 150 000 miles on it, I also replaced the half-moon trunions Chevy used in the LSs, which have a tendency to crack and cause more harm to the engine. I also installed new pushrods. I increased my pushrods from 7.393 to 7.400. But these are improvements. If you want to keep your motor running and avoid having to do expensive repairs because the cheap ones break, you may eventually need to perform the trunion upgrade. However, if your truck is ticking and all you want is for it to stop, I would look at the symptoms listed above and if you don't find any metal shavings, the ticking is probably originating from the oil pump. The ticking will stop if you replace the oil pump and the o-ring on the oil pump inlet tube.My truck was saved by this oil pump. I'm grateful.
4.5/5
Oil Pump - Wet Sump - Internal - Standard Volume - Ford Modular - Each Notes: 2005-06 Ford GT (5.4L) 2007-12 Mustang Shelby GT500 (5.4L) 2013-14 Mustang Shelby GT500 (5.8L)
$234
Any Ford 5.4L 3V engine must have this, and it must be installed. I used this in a 2005 F-150, and I'd use it once more when I needed to adjust the timing. For the relatively challenging to reach oil pickup tube bolts, you should have an 8mm flex head ratcheting wrench on available (unless your dropping the oil pan, than there is no need). Along with replacing the entire timing set, camshaft phasers, variable valve timing solenoids, all 24 hydraulic lash adjusters, and all 24 rocker arms, I also installed this. Everything I just listed is a must have if you're doing the same job. A broken rocker arm in the engine I was working on damaged the camshaft and caused an intake valve to be lowered. On one of the worst engines ever created, make careful you tweak the rockers and lash adjusters. The phasers and valvetrain's early demise is directly attributable to the original oil pump. The Ford GT supercar and GT500 were intended for this high volume M360 pump.Now that I look closer, Melling also sells an M360HV pump. It's also challenging to prime the oil system because this pump is crank mounted and driven. I took off the pump's back cover and added Lucas oil stabilizer to it while also adding some to the pick-up tube. I knew that after putting everything back together, I would be starting it in approximately two to three hours. When I turned off the ignition and fuel injectors, oil pressure built quite quickly, as I could see from the gauge. When gasoline and spark were enabled once more, the expected rapid ignition occurred.
4/5
HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP
$234
used this pump to replace a defective oil pump from the manufacturer. Oil pressure on the truck's 2005 6.0l Chevy engine runs at 50 psi while cruising at 70 or more. The OEM pressure release valve became blocked and left my engine with no pressure at idle, so it wasn't an easy install, but it saved my engine.
3.8/5
Oil Pump - Wet Sump - Internal - High Volume - Gasket / Pickup Included - Stock Depth Pan - AMC Inline-6 - Kit
$234
On three (3) 4.0L Jeep engines, I used this pump. 2 1998 and 1 2001. They were all experiencing pressure drops. As many people who have internet connection as there are have reported fixes for this. My favorite is "poor cam bearings." Really? How would you know unless you disassembled the engine and measured the bearings? I believe that the diagnosis is "I have no earthly notion." Nevertheless, two of these were simply R
3.7/5
Manufactured to fit a specific application
$234
The only criticisms I've come across are that it doesn't fit. decided to take a chance, and it fit in our 2005 Jeep LJ. In the chamber where the pump gears are, it is considerably bigger than stock. It was mechanically primed with a drill and had 60 psi of oil in roughly 15 seconds. It definitely pushes more volume than stock. Installing the oil tube was also rather simple. I tapped it in firmly on the pick up tube's curve with a rubber mallet. About 20 gentle hits later, it was seated in the pump. The tube wasn't damaged or bent either.Other remarks Don't rely on your dash-mounted oil pressure gauge to display oil pressure. Check it using a mechanical gauge. We purchased a mechanical gauge to make sure it was functioning because the gauge on the dash never displayed pressure when the car was turned on. After making sure the pump was operational with the mechanical gauge, we actually started the engine. After about 20 seconds, the pressure gauge on the dash came on. Basically, the gauge on the dash is quite slow to respond at startup, and from what I've seen online, it's simply an oil light gauge that doesn't even display pressure. When the pressure falls below around 10 psi, it simply shoots to the centre before going to zero.
There is no definitive answer to this question as it depends on the make and model of your vehicle. However, in general, it is recommended that you have high oil pressure rather than low oil pressure. Low oil pressure can indicate that there is a problem with your vehicle's oil system, which can lead to engine damage.
Oil pumps are devices that are used to move oil from one place to another. There are two types of oil pumps: positive displacement pumps and centrifugal pumps. Positive displacement pumps work by trapping a certain amount of oil in a chamber and then moving that chamber to an outlet. This type of pump is often used in oil rigs and other industrial applications. Centrifugal pumps work by using a rotating impeller to create a vacuum that sucks oil into the pump. This type of pump is often used in automotive applications.
Oil pumps are devices used to pump oil from one place to another. There are three types of oil pumps: gear, vane, and piston. Gear oil pumps are the most common type of oil pump. They use gears to pump oil through a system. Vane oil pumps use vanes to pump oil through a system. Piston oil pumps use pistons to pump oil through a system.
There are many different types of pumps used in automobiles, but the most common are fuel pumps, water pumps, and oil pumps. Fuel pumps deliver gasoline from the tank to the engine, while water pumps circulate coolant through the radiator and engine block to keep the engine from overheating. Oil pumps lubricate the engine's moving parts, ensuring that they move smoothly and without excessive wear.
Oil pump failure is typically caused by a loss of oil pressure, which can be due to a variety of reasons. The most common cause is a loss of oil, which can be due to a leak or an oil change. Other causes can include a clogged oil filter, a faulty oil pressure sensor, or a problem with the oil pump itself.
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