If your sheave is worn out, it will likely need to be replaced. There are several ways to tell if your sheave is worn out. One way is to look at the surface of the sheave. If the surface is smooth, it is likely time to replace the sheave. Another way to tell if your sheave is worn out is to look at the bearings. If the bearings are worn out, they will need to be replaced. Finally, if your sheave makes noise when it is running, it is likely time to replace it.
A pulley system is used to lift or move heavy objects by using ropes and pulleys. To rig a pulley system, you will need to attach the pulleys to a fixed point, such as a ceiling or beam. Then, you will need to attach the rope to the pulley system. Finally, you will need to attach the object that you are trying to lift or move to the other end of the rope.
There are a few ways to size a sheave. One way is to use a caliper to measure the diameter of the shaft. Another way is to use a micrometer. Once you have the diameter of the shaft, you can use a simple formula to calculate the sheave size.
There are three types of pulleys- fixed, movable, and compound. Fixed pulleys have a Groove in them and are attached to a stationary object. Movable pulleys also have a Groove but are not attached to anything. Compound pulleys are a combination of fixed and movable pulleys.
4.7/5
A belt or cross section
Classical V-belt sheave fits widely available, classical profile V-belts suitable for use in many existing drive designs
Cast iron for resistance to wear and galling
One groove for single belt use
$234
Got a pair of these to replace the worn pulleys on a Sears Craftsman table saw approximately 1975-1980.On the bright side, these are VERY beautiful, substantial duty pulleys. I have no doubt they'll last the rest of the life of the saw. They are solid and powder-coated. On the bad side, they're VERY precisely constructed, and on an older system you'll need to do a little of work to get them to fit.So... have some notes for you that might help.1. Getting the old pulleys off needed a blowtorch, penetrating oil, and a whole lot of swearing. The inside pulley especially took a while to get off since there was so little place to work in. (Being left-handed was a decided bonus.) t wasn't quite rusted in place, but it was fairly close. The inside key piece took a lot of oil and hammer.screwdriver labour to remove.2. You WILL need to polish the shafts if you've got ANY form of corrosion on them. These pulleys are incredibly tight, and a tiny covering of rust will mean the difference between it fitting and it not fitting. And even if you think they're clean, sand them down a bit anyway. (The pulleys ARE tight after all.)3. You MAY need to sand the INSIDE of the pulley's hole. One had just a touch of overspray from the powder coating within the central hole for the shaft. Guess what! It wouldn't fit onto the shaft until I sanded that out.4. 150 grit sandpaper is your friend for both the shafts and the holes on the pulleys.5. The critical pieces, if they're removable, will likely need to be sanded down to remove rust and corrosion also. The inner pulley on my table saw had a crucial piece that had a very small layer of rust on it - which was enough to hinder the pulley from fitting.Would I buy these again? Yes, very much so. The only disadvantage is that they're accurate enough that they may be challenging to install on older equipment.
4.7/5
Classical V-belt sheave fits widely available, classical profile V-belts suitable for use in many existing drive designs
A belt or cross section
One groove for single belt use
Cast iron for resistance to wear and galling
$234
Got a pair of these to replace the worn pulleys on a Sears Craftsman table saw approximately 1975-1980.On the bright side, these are VERY beautiful, substantial duty pulleys. I have no doubt they'll last the rest of the life of the saw. They are solid and powder-coated. On the bad side, they're VERY precisely made, and on an older system you'll need to do a bit of work to get them to fit.So... have some notes for you that might help.1. Getting the old pulleys off required a blowtorch, penetrating oil, and a whole lot of cussing. The inside pulley especially took a while to get off since there was so little place to work in. (Being left-handed was a decided bonus.) t wasn't quite rusted in place, but it was fairly close. The inside key piece took a lot of oil and hammer.screwdriver labour to remove.2. You WILL need to polish the shafts if you've got ANY sort of corrosion on them. These pulleys are incredibly tight, and a tiny covering of rust will mean the difference between it fitting and it not fitting. And even if you think they're clean, sand them down a bit anyway. (The pulleys ARE tight after all.)3. You MAY need to sand the INSIDE of the pulley's hole. One had just a bit of overspray from the powder coating inside the center hole for the shaft. Guess what! It wouldn't fit onto the shaft until I sanded that out.4. 150 grit sandpaper is your friend for both the shafts and the holes on the pulleys.5. The key pieces, if they're removable, will likely need to be sanded down to remove rust and corrosion also. The interior pulley on my table saw had a key piece that had a very thin layer of oxidation on it - which was enough to keep the pulley from fitting.Would I buy these again? Yes, very much so. The only caveat is that they're precise enough that they may be hard to install on older equipment.
4.7/5
Classical V-belt sheave fits widely available, classical profile V-belts suitable for use in many existing drive designs
One groove for single belt use
A belt or cross section
Cast iron for resistance to wear and galling
$234
To replace the worn pulleys on a Sears Craftsman table saw from 1975 to 1980, I bought a pair of these.On the plus side, these pulleys are VERY nice and sturdy. They will certainly last for the remainder of the saw's life. They are powder-coated and solid. The drawback is that they are VERY precisely made, and fitting them into an older system will require some effort.So, here are some notes that might be of assistance.1. It took a blowtorch, penetrating oil, and a lot of swearing to remove the old pulleys. It was particularly difficult to remove the interior pulley because there was so little space available. (Having a left hand was undoubtedly beneficial.) It was almost completely rusted in place, but not quite. It took a lot of oil, hammer, and screwdriver work to remove the interior key piece.2. If the shafts have ANY corrosion on them, you WILL need to polish them. These pulleys are extremely tight, and a light layer of rust can make the difference between them fitting or not. And even if you believe they are clean, lightly sand them. (After all, the pulleys ARE tight.)3. You MIGHT need to sand the pulley's hole from the inside. One had a small amount of powder coating overspray inside the shaft's center hole. Observe this! I had to sand that out before it would fit onto the shaft.4. For the shafts and holes on the pulleys, 150 grit sandpaper is your friend.5. If the key pieces are removable, they will probably need to be sanded down to remove corrosion and rust as well. A small amount of oxidation on a key component of the interior pulley on my table saw was sufficient to prevent the pulley from fitting.Would I repurchase these? Yes, in a big way. The only drawback is that they are so precise that installing them on older equipment might be challenging.
4.7/5
Cast iron for resistance to wear and galling
A belt or cross section
One groove for single belt use
Classical V-belt sheave fits widely available, classical profile V-belts suitable for use in many existing drive designs
$234
To replace the worn pulleys on a Sears Craftsman table saw from 1975 to 1980, I bought a pair of them.On the plus side, these pulleys are VERY beautiful and sturdy. They will certainly last for the remainder of the saw's life. They are powder-coated and solid. The drawback is that they are VERY precisely constructed, and fitting them into an older system will need some effort.So, here are some notes that might be of use.1. It took a blowtorch, penetrating oil, and a lot of swearing to remove the old pulleys. It was particularly difficult to remove the internal pulley because there was so little space available. (Having a left hand was undoubtedly beneficial.) It was almost completely rusted in place, but not quite. It took a lot of oil, hammer, and screwdriver work to remove the inside key piece.2. If the shafts have ANY rust on them, you WILL need to polish them. These pulleys are extremely tight, and a tiny layer of rust can make the difference between them fitting or not. And even if you believe they are clean, lightly sand them. (After all, the pulleys ARE tight.)3. You MIGHT need to sand the pulley's hole from the inside. One had a little amount of powder coating overspray inside the shaft's center hole. Observe this! I had to sand that out before it would fit onto the shaft.4. For the shafts and holes on the pulleys, 150 grit sandpaper is your friend.5. If the key pieces are removable, they will probably need to be sanded down to eliminate corrosion and rust as well. A small amount of oxidation on a vital component of the inner pulley on my table saw was sufficient to prevent the pulley from fitting.Would I repurchase these? Yes, in a big way. The main drawback is that they are so accurate that installing them on older equipment could be challenging.
4.7/5
One groove for single belt use
A belt or cross section
Classical V-belt sheave fits widely available, classical profile V-belts suitable for use in many existing drive designs
Cast iron for resistance to wear and galling
$234
To replace the worn pulleys on a Sears Craftsman table saw from 1975 to 1980, I bought a pair of these.On the plus side, these pulleys are VERY nice and sturdy. They will certainly last for the remainder of the saw's life. They are powder-coated and solid. The drawback is that they are VERY precisely made, and fitting them into an older system will require some effort.So, here are some notes that might be of assistance.1. It took a blowtorch, penetrating oil, and a lot of swearing to remove the old pulleys. It was particularly difficult to remove the interior pulley because there was so little space available. (Having a left hand was undoubtedly beneficial.) It was almost completely rusted in place, but not quite. It took a lot of oil, hammer, and screwdriver work to remove the interior key piece.2. If the shafts have ANY corrosion on them, you WILL need to polish them. These pulleys are extremely tight, and a light layer of rust can make the difference between them fitting or not. And even if you believe they are clean, lightly sand them. (After all, the pulleys ARE tight.)3. You MIGHT need to sand the pulley's hole from the inside. One had a small amount of powder coating overspray inside the shaft's center hole. Observe this! I had to sand that out before it would fit onto the shaft.4. For the shafts and holes on the pulleys, 150 grit sandpaper is your friend.5. If the key pieces are removable, they will probably need to be sanded down to remove corrosion and rust as well. A small amount of oxidation on a key component of the interior pulley on my table saw was sufficient to prevent the pulley from fitting.Would I repurchase these? Yes, in a big way. The only drawback is that they are so precise that installing them on older equipment might be challenging.
4.7/5
One groove for single belt use
Classical V-belt sheave fits widely available, classical profile V-belts suitable for use in many existing drive designs
A belt or cross section
Cast iron for resistance to wear and galling
$234
To replace the worn pulleys on a Sears Craftsman table saw from 1975 to 1980, I bought a pair of them.On the plus side, these pulleys are VERY beautiful and sturdy. They will certainly last for the remainder of the saw's life. They are powder-coated and solid. The drawback is that they are VERY precisely constructed, and fitting them into an older system will need some effort.So, here are some notes that might be of use.1. It took a blowtorch, penetrating oil, and a lot of swearing to remove the old pulleys. It was particularly difficult to remove the internal pulley because there was so little space available. (Having a left hand was undoubtedly beneficial.) It was almost completely rusted in place, but not quite. It took a lot of oil, hammer, and screwdriver work to remove the inside key piece.2. If the shafts have ANY rust on them, you WILL need to polish them. These pulleys are extremely tight, and a tiny layer of rust can make the difference between them fitting or not. And even if you believe they are clean, lightly sand them. (After all, the pulleys ARE tight.)3. You MIGHT need to sand the pulley's hole from the inside. One had a little amount of powder coating overspray inside the shaft's center hole. Observe this! I had to sand that out before it would fit onto the shaft.4. For the shafts and holes on the pulleys, 150 grit sandpaper is your friend.5. If the key pieces are removable, they will probably need to be sanded down to eliminate corrosion and rust as well. A small amount of oxidation on a vital component of the inner pulley on my table saw was sufficient to prevent the pulley from fitting.Would I repurchase these? Yes, in a big way. The main drawback is that they are so accurate that installing them on older equipment could be challenging.
4.7/5
Cast iron for resistance to wear and galling
One groove for single belt use
Classical V-belt sheave fits widely available, classical profile V-belts suitable for use in many existing drive designs
A belt or cross section
$234
To replace the worn pulleys on a Sears Craftsman table saw from 1975 to 1980, I bought a pair of them.On the plus side, these pulleys are VERY beautiful and sturdy. They will certainly last for the remainder of the saw's life. They are powder-coated and solid. The drawback is that they are VERY precisely constructed, and fitting them into an older system will need some effort.So, here are some notes that might be of use.1. It took a blowtorch, penetrating oil, and a lot of swearing to remove the old pulleys. It was particularly difficult to remove the internal pulley because there was so little space available. (Having a left hand was undoubtedly beneficial.) It was almost completely rusted in place, but not quite. It took a lot of oil, hammer, and screwdriver work to remove the inside key piece.2. If the shafts have ANY rust on them, you WILL need to polish them. These pulleys are extremely tight, and a tiny layer of rust can make the difference between them fitting or not. And even if you believe they are clean, lightly sand them. (After all, the pulleys ARE tight.)3. You MIGHT need to sand the pulley's hole from the inside. One had a little amount of powder coating overspray inside the shaft's center hole. Observe this! I had to sand that out before it would fit onto the shaft.4. For the shafts and holes on the pulleys, 150 grit sandpaper is your friend.5. If the key pieces are removable, they will probably need to be sanded down to eliminate corrosion and rust as well. A small amount of oxidation on a vital component of the inner pulley on my table saw was sufficient to prevent the pulley from fitting.Would I repurchase these? Yes, in a big way. The main drawback is that they are so accurate that installing them on older equipment could be challenging.
Belt sheaves are pulleys that are used to guide and tension belts. The sheaves have a groove on the inside that the belt fits into. The belts are wrapped around the sheaves and the tension is created by the weight of the belt. The sheaves are usually made of metal or plastic and are available in a variety of sizes.
Crane sheaves are commonly made from steel, but can also be made from aluminum or other materials. The material must be strong enough to support the loads imposed by the crane, while also being able to withstand the wear and tear of regular use.
A sheave wheel is a grooved wheel that is used to guide a rope or cable. The wheel is usually made of metal and has a series of grooves that the rope or cable fits into. The grooves help to keep the rope or cable from slipping off of the wheel. A hoist cable is a cable that is used to lift heavy objects. The cable is typically made of steel and is very strong. The cable is attached to a pulley system that helps to lift the object.
A winch is a mechanical device that is used to wind or unwind a rope or cable. A sheave is a pulley with a grooved wheel that is used to guide a rope or cable.
A block and sheave is a type of pulley system used to change the direction of a force. The sheave is a grooved wheel that turns on an axle, and the block is a frame that holds the sheave. The block and sheave can be used to change the direction of a force by 90 degrees, or to redirect a force in the same direction.
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