4.7/5
Enjoy the peace of mind that this amp is backed by Fender's 5 Year Transferable Warranty.
A beefy 40 watt class D power amp and ported speaker enclosure pumps volume and deep bass response but keeps this amp very light in weight - only 18 pounds!
Practice privately with the 1/8" headphone output jack that also mutes the speaker output.
Jam along with your favorite tracks by simply plugging your MP3 player into the 1/8" Auxiliary input jack and instantly become part of the band.
Expore bass tones from classic gritty growl to slap-worthy modern punch with the newly-developed overdrive circuit and switchable contour controls
$234
In this article from the New Yorker, January 28, 2013 “Music To Your Ears.” Daniel Levitin (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Levitin) “pointed out that most of the lowest notes on most pianos are actually inferred rather than heard. The soundboard on most pianos isn’t long enough to produce the bottom octave, but the brain hears the right overtones, which the piano can produce, and neurons in the brain begin to fire at the frequency of the missing bass note.”
In days of yore (1950s – 1960s) this psycho-acoustic quirk was used in the design of “hi-fi” consoles to produce a semblance of deep bass without actually having an extended low frequency response.
And so it is with the Rumble 25. I measured the response of this combo as shown in the graph. The red curve is with all controls set to 12 o’clock. The blue curve shows it can actually produce a reasonably flat response from 90 Hz to 2.5 kHz, +/-3 dB with the controls set as follows: Bass @ 12 o’clock, Mid @ 9 o’clock, High @ fully ccw. This means that it can only reproduce the 2nd harmonic of the lower bass octave (40 Hz to 80 Hz). Because of the normal 18 dB/octave roll-off for a vented enclosure, the 10 dB down point is about 70 Hz. As to the 2.5 kHz frequency, note that the 12th harmonic of a high A (220 Hz) on a bass is 2.64 kHz. The driver is low compliance and the box appears tuned to about 100 Hz, both of which are consistent with the measurements. These curves are smoothed with a 1/3 octave cepstral algorithm to remove insignificant non-audible variations in the measurements.
There is a large resonant peak just over 3 kHz = 1/2 the driver diameter. This is tamed pretty well with the High control fully ccw, but still sits almost 7 dB above the average level. Given that the paper cone is quite stiff with no attempt in its design to damp sound waves travelling through the cone material, this resonant peak is not at all surprising. This peak corresponds to the 16th harmonic of the 220 Hz high A on the bass. This peak is probably a good “feature” for the attacks of slap bass (which I don’t do). Otherwise it is actually of little consequence.
All this said, the Rumble 25 works well for me. It was low cost, is small, lightweight, and, in spite of lacking any usable output much below 100 Hz, it nonetheless “sounds” like a decent bass loudspeaker. With the controls set as noted for the flattest response, it works well for both my electric and acoustic basses, both of which sound best through a flat response system. The former is an all-original, ’63 Fender Jazz and the latter uses an NS Design “Copperhead” pick-up, a prototype kindly given to me by Ned as a present for mentoring one of his sons on bass.
For acoustic gigs, even those using a PA for rooms sized for around 75 -100 audience, the Rumble 25 does the job in terms of sound quality and loudness. For larger rooms and louder gigs that’s why I have my “big” rig. This is custom set-up with a ruler flat response from 40 Hz to 2.5 kHz. However, It consists of a separate EQ, amplifier, and loudspeaker = much more to set up, is five times heavier, and it cost over 20 times more than the Rumble 25. That is what prompted me to try the Rumble 25 for smaller gigs. For what it's worth I play most all genres of music from classical to rock.
One feature I like is Fender's built-in, non-adjustable, "Delta-Comp" limiter. This seems to work really well, holding things in check when the amplifier is over driven a bit. Push it hard over the limit point and some high frequency artifacts do appear. However, when running the amplifier near its limits it is virtually unnoticeable except for subtlly limiting the loudness.
In spite of its measured performance, I'm giving the Rumble 25 five stars because its doing just what I need it to do.
4.7/5
Enjoy the peace of mind that this amp is backed by Fender's 5 Year Transferable Warranty.
Practice privately with the 1/8" headphone output jack that also mutes the speaker output.
Expore bass tones from classic gritty growl to slap-worthy modern punch with the newly-developed overdrive circuit and switchable contour controls
A beefy 100 watt class D power amp and ported speaker enclosure pumps volume and deep bass response but keeps this amp very light in weight - only 22 pounds!
Jam along with your favorite tracks by simply plugging your MP3 player into the 1/8" Auxiliary input jack and instantly become part of the band.
$234
In this article from the New Yorker, January 28, 2013 “Music To Your Ears.” Daniel Levitin (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Levitin) “pointed out that most of the lowest notes on most pianos are actually inferred rather than heard. The soundboard on most pianos isn’t long enough to produce the bottom octave, but the brain hears the right overtones, which the piano can produce, and neurons in the brain begin to fire at the frequency of the missing bass note.”
In days of yore (1950s – 1960s) this psycho-acoustic quirk was used in the design of “hi-fi” consoles to produce a semblance of deep bass without actually having an extended low frequency response.
And so it is with the Rumble 25. I measured the response of this combo as shown in the graph. The red curve is with all controls set to 12 o’clock. The blue curve shows it can actually produce a reasonably flat response from 90 Hz to 2.5 kHz, +/-3 dB with the controls set as follows: Bass @ 12 o’clock, Mid @ 9 o’clock, High @ fully ccw. This means that it can only reproduce the 2nd harmonic of the lower bass octave (40 Hz to 80 Hz). Because of the normal 18 dB/octave roll-off for a vented enclosure, the 10 dB down point is about 70 Hz. As to the 2.5 kHz frequency, note that the 12th harmonic of a high A (220 Hz) on a bass is 2.64 kHz. The driver is low compliance and the box appears tuned to about 100 Hz, both of which are consistent with the measurements. These curves are smoothed with a 1/3 octave cepstral algorithm to remove insignificant non-audible variations in the measurements.
There is a large resonant peak just over 3 kHz = 1/2 the driver diameter. This is tamed pretty well with the High control fully ccw, but still sits almost 7 dB above the average level. Given that the paper cone is quite stiff with no attempt in its design to damp sound waves travelling through the cone material, this resonant peak is not at all surprising. This peak corresponds to the 16th harmonic of the 220 Hz high A on the bass. This peak is probably a good “feature” for the attacks of slap bass (which I don’t do). Otherwise it is actually of little consequence.
All this said, the Rumble 25 works well for me. It was low cost, is small, lightweight, and, in spite of lacking any usable output much below 100 Hz, it nonetheless “sounds” like a decent bass loudspeaker. With the controls set as noted for the flattest response, it works well for both my electric and acoustic basses, both of which sound best through a flat response system. The former is an all-original, ’63 Fender Jazz and the latter uses an NS Design “Copperhead” pick-up, a prototype kindly given to me by Ned as a present for mentoring one of his sons on bass.
For acoustic gigs, even those using a PA for rooms sized for around 75 -100 audience, the Rumble 25 does the job in terms of sound quality and loudness. For larger rooms and louder gigs that’s why I have my “big” rig. This is custom set-up with a ruler flat response from 40 Hz to 2.5 kHz. However, It consists of a separate EQ, amplifier, and loudspeaker = much more to set up, is five times heavier, and it cost over 20 times more than the Rumble 25. That is what prompted me to try the Rumble 25 for smaller gigs. For what it's worth I play most all genres of music from classical to rock.
One feature I like is Fender's built-in, non-adjustable, "Delta-Comp" limiter. This seems to work really well, holding things in check when the amplifier is over driven a bit. Push it hard over the limit point and some high frequency artifacts do appear. However, when running the amplifier near its limits it is virtually unnoticeable except for subtlly limiting the loudness.
In spite of its measured performance, I'm giving the Rumble 25 five stars because its doing just what I need it to do.
4.7/5
Feature: This Fender Eliminator is designed to retain the factory Kawasaki Z650 & Ninja 650 license plate light and compatible with the OEM Kawasaki Z650 & Ninja 650 turn signals.
Material: Stainless steel bracket, Powder coated finish, improves durability and corrosion resistance and ensures better performance and longer life.
Function: To tidy up your bike with the Fender Eliminator and eliminate that big bulky OEM fender while improving the appearance of your riding.
Package includes: 1pcs of Fender Eliminator, 4 pcs of screw caps, 2 pcs of gaskets, for easy installation..
Fit: Designed for KAWASAKI Z 650 2017-2019; KAWASAKI NINJA 650 2017-2019.
$234
In my opinion, this is the most necessary upgrade to any street bike. Even if you wanted to keep your bike stock, you really should get this. It really looks great! I hated how the stock fender looked on such an awesome looking bike. I really like that I was able to keep the stock Kawasaki turn signals because I think that they look cool, and they are also more visible than the integrated tail light/turn signal combos.
The install was easy enough, even though it comes with no instructions. I read the reviews or answered questions on this product and someone mentioned a YouTube video showing installation instructions for a nearly identical fender eliminator.
4.6/5
Includes two 6. 5” x 22” BoatTector fenders and two 3/8” x 5' fender lines
Reinforced molded eyelets ensure longevity and strength
UV stabilized, chemically resistant
Equipped with a needle valve to inflate or deflate each fender to a desired pressure (needle valve pump not included)
Two-year limited
$234
I will be the first to admit that I don't even know what these are. But we have a 26 foot boat and my husband asked me to order them way back in December (although they say they are for boats up to 25 feet) and I did. I asked him a few days ago how they are holding up and if he liked them and he said he is totally pleased with them and he feels he got a great deal. The price has gone down since we purchased these but, even at a higher price, they are quite a value. They are fine for our boat which is bigger than the recommended size by a foot.
4.6/5
Reinforced molded eyelets ensure longevity and strength
Equipped with a needle valve to inflate or deflate each fender to a desired pressure (needle valve pump not included)
UV stabilized, chemically resistant
Includes two 6” x 22” BoatTector fenders and two 3/8” x 5' fender lines
Two-year limited
$234
I will be the first to admit that I don't even know what these are. But we have a 26 foot boat and my husband asked me to order them way back in December (although they say they are for boats up to 25 feet) and I did. I asked him a few days ago how they are holding up and if he liked them and he said he is totally pleased with them and he feels he got a great deal. The price has gone down since we purchased these but, even at a higher price, they are quite a value. They are fine for our boat which is bigger than the recommended size by a foot.
4.2/5
Made in the USA, since 2039
Long body mounts included to fit Rally Car Bodies
Completely adjustable body mounts so virtually any body will fit perfectly
Made from Ultra-Durable Nylon
Innovative screw on body mounting system ( Secure-Lock Cap )
$234
I'm new to RC trucks, but when I bought the Slash, I thought the body height was way to low for my liking. Also have heard of people saying the inside of the body rubs on the plastic nerd bars on the side of the frame , as well as tires rubbing in the inside of the wheel wells (because of the body being too low).
What I did, and I think it was very useful, was put the extenders on and stick toothpicks inside the holes (perfect fit) to allow you to place body on the mounts and adjust the extender arms as needed for the perfect height. Also, the pins that screw into the top of the mounts where the caps screw down, need to have a good 1/8 of an inch left sticking out the the top (don't screw in all the way); as this allows you to screw the caps on tightly. Also, the kit comes with 4 small rubber washers that go over the pins, which helps the caps maintain a tight fit while crashing around.
The arms are flexible as they should be, and you wouldn't want some super ridged body mounts anyways, as they would just snap off after one good hit. I found that the rear arms are rather long for the Slash, so after final setup I cut the overhang with a handsaw so they wouldn't interfere with the rear A arms and suspension movement.
Overall I like this kit, and if you want to raise or lower the body on your RC car, I think it's a viable option.
4/5
Injection molded poly construction won't rust or corrode
Durable and forgiving
Poly material is lightweight
Integrally molded ribs for added strength and spray reduction
$234
Ordered 4 fenders, 4 mounting kits and 4 extra sets of mounting brackets. This is for the fenders... They were all decent except one. One fender had a casting defect in it which meant there was a void where the plastic didn't fill in all the way and there was a hole about the size of a quarter slot on a video game. 7-10 days to get your money back after they receive the item? F- that. I used a plastic welder and filled the gap. It'll be fine. Mounting was simple enough with the additional kits recommended for this. Should work well. I'll update if they don't.
3.9/5
Fits 1980-2013 FLH and 1986-2008 FLSTC Models
$234
This skirt is heavy duty and very nicely crafted. I will admit I too when I took it out of the box, saw the creases and thought it was damaged. However, I took it over to the bike and noticed those creases line up exactly with the flares in the fender itself. I've had this for a few months now and I'm super happy with the look. The stock skirt started peeling and falling apart. The only criticism left is the stainless steel screws are slightly rusting already and it's only been a few months. Not a show stopper for me and if they get too bad, I'll likely put new screws on. Overall it was pretty easy to install.
I would recommend their products.
3.8/5
Easily adapt the position of your pontoon’s fenders to fit any dock height in just seconds
Removes the hassle of constantly tying and untying fender lines from your rails
Attaches and detaches quickly, high-impact plastic won’t scratch or stain
Snugly fits 1.25” square pontoon rails
Secures BoatTector fender lines up to 3/8”
$234
I have a 2017 Lowe pontoon boat and these did not fit my rails. They were a little to narrow, being that they are plastic I took my heat gun to them. I just warmed them up enough to widen them a little bit and then they fit fine. Once they were warm I was able to slide them onto my rails. Once they cooled, in about 2 mins, they fit perfect and were molded perfect to my boat. I so far they serve the excact purpose as they are made for and I have had no issues. I like them, my wife likes them. No more tieing the bumpers up, simply clip them on the side you want. I would have given 5 stars if they would have fit my rails without any modifications. I would recommend these if your not scared of a heat gun and know how to use it.
I would say, a hair blow dryer might work. It may take a lot longer to heat up.
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