If you have a 10-inch blade for your miter saw, you can absolutely put it on a 12-inch miter saw. It might be a tight fit, but it will work. The only thing you need to be careful of is making sure the blade is compatible with the saw. Some blades are only made for certain types of saws.
Miter saws are designed to make precise, clean cuts at angles, so they typically have a smaller blade than a circular saw. That being said, you can use a circular saw blade on a miter saw, but it is not recommended. The circular saw blade will not cut as precisely as a miter saw blade, and it is more likely to cause kickback.
4.8/5
Ultra Thin Kerf .091", 5 Degree Hook Angle, and .071 Plate Thickness
Ideal for: Harwood, Softwood, and Plywood
Fine Crosscutting
Fully Hardened and Expertly Hand Tensioned Steel Saw Plates for True Cuts
Micro-Grain Carbide Teeth are Honed with up to 600 Grit for a Mirror Finish
$234
Extremely long-lasting and incredibly sharp.This was purchased by me two years ago to use with a vintage Hitachi miter saw. Over TWO YEARS of light to moderate use, I have not experienced ANY loss in cut quality. It may not seem like much after two years of moderate use, but when I first bought this blade, I had no idea what I was doing and made some potentially dangerous cuts that caused the blade to seize and kickback on the miter saw. Despite this, the cut quality is still the same as it was the day I installed it.The only drawback I can think of is minimal and perhaps not even terrible overall for beginners: The blue paint rubs off onto the work piece if I cut too quickly (causing noise) or with insufficient work holding (causing the blade to be abruptly forced into a new cut line). It takes a lot of sanding or another cut to get rid of this parasitic paint, especially from end grain. This won't happen if you use this blade at the right feed rate with a solid (also known as safe) work holding. This con turned out to be advantageous for me since I learnt that blue paint on my work indicated that I had made a mistake and needed to come up with a new strategy to make a cut.I'll buy the exact same blade again if the $40 or so blade I got two years ago ever stops cutting flawlessly.
4.7/5
10" Blade Diameter, 24 Teeth, FLAT Grind, 5/8" Arbor, .094" Kerf, 20° Hook Angle
Positive Hook Angles for fast cutting and easy feeding in ripping applications
Perma-Shield Non-Stick Coating reduces blade drag, protects the blade from corrosion and pitch build-up.
Thin Kerf allows for faster feed rate and reduced waste
Premium TiCo HI-Density Carbide Ripping Blend for Maximum Performance
$234
The name of this blade is absolutely accurate. I ripped some 6/4 ash with it to serve as a tabletop. Although there are tougher woods, ash is sufficiently hard to test a fresh blade. For reference, MLB bats are constructed of it.If your fence is properly oriented, the blade rips with a lovely singing sound. Not a single issue. There is no smoke or burning at all. Don't chip. Simply edges that are square and smooth.Two of my images demonstrate how the seam between the boards practically vanishes. The other image is a thin piece that I tore off that was less than 1/32 in size. So yes, veneers could be cut with this blade.Spend your money on this "industrial" blade even though you can find pretty good "hobby" blades at big box stores. You'll see a distinction.I can't say for how long it will stay, but I believe it will last for a good while as long as it is not subjected to extreme lateral stress, which can burn teeth, and is cleaned if it gathers sap.
4.7/5
Anti-vibration vents prevent wobble for straighter, truer cuts
Metal cutting grade carbide teeth stay sharp for long-lasting durability
Laser cut blade
Anti-kickback tooth shoulder for safer cutting
Ideal for cutting thin steel
$234
Long story brief Put this on my Skilsaw worm drive (blade has diamond knockout) made 80 or so cuts into the 28g premium steel roofing from Menards. Through four sheets at a time, straight cuts (38") were made. One sheet at a time was used to carve the valleys. The final edit was equally simple as the initial one. For the price I paid, this is a value considering that I just needed it for one assignment. Along the way, I did lose a tooth (or rather, the blade did), but it didn't impair my ability to cut. Decent edges; just to be safe, I gave the valley cuts' edges a quick coat of clear Rustoleum spray paint. Technically, a saw shouldn't be used to cut steel. Wear protective clothing before using this, as others have advised. a long-sleeved shirt and, at the very least, eye protection On hairy arms, those tiny, orange-hot steel shards can cause havoc. If you don't feel comfortable using a circular saw, Menards offers rent roofing panel cutters in both straight and angled variants.
4.5/5
Precision ground teeth for smooth, accurate cuts
5/8" Arbor w/ diamond knockout
Heavy gauge high carbon steel for extended life
Fully hardened plate runs truer longer
$234
There is a small selection and it appears that 81/4 in blades are not a particularly popular size. I have an ancient Delta compound miter that serves more as a keepsake than a useful tool for carpentry. I bought this one based on the features and price even though I don't have any experience with Irwin Industrial Tool products. Installation was not very difficult. The blade has a refined, handcrafted appearance. I suppose the cutting is the proof. It helps the 25-year-old Delta saw cut well and work like new once more. nice value.
4.5/5
Quality Guarantee, Limited Lifetime Warranty by TOMAX
Construction grade carbide teeth provide maximum resistance for longer life
All blades feature 5/8-inch arbor with diamond knock-out
Electrophoretic Coating reduces the rusting and corrosion
Ideal for cutting Plastic, Aluminum and Non-Ferrous Metals
$234
On the basis of the previous evaluations, I was hesitant to purchase this blade. However, I had no problems with blade wobble. I chopped some corian counters with mine to make place for a bigger oven. I purchased this blade type because it was suggested because I was concerned there may be chipping. It produced a completely square edge. Although I can't attest to its durability, I wouldn't think twice before purchasing one.As a side note, use a worn drive saw rather than a regular skill saw when cutting counters with it since the added force prevents the blade from pulling out. Additionally, tape the area where the saw will slide. I didn't, and I had to polish out a hairline scratch that extended the length of my cut.
4.3/5
Laser-Cut Anti-Vibration Slots drastically reduce vibration and sideways movement in the cut extending blade life and giving a crisp, splinter-free flawless finish
Perma-Shield Non-Stick Coating reduces blade drag, protects the blade from corrosion and pitch build-up.
Premium TiCo HI-Density Carbide Ripping Blend for Maximum Performance
10" Blade Diameter, 24 Teeth, FLAT Grind, 5/8" Arbor, .126" Kerf, 20° Hook Angle
Extra Large, Flat Tooth Design leaves a smooth finish without the need for sanding or jointing
$234
I purchased this blade for a few different reasons.A flat cut is left by teeth that are exactly flat at the top, or FTG. I wanted a blade that I could use to cut dados, rabbets, and half lap joints on my table saw because I don't have a dado blade for it. With my old ATB blade, I could kind of build similar joins, but the bottom of the joint would always have little ridges from the ATB blade. Using this blade and a crosscut table I created for my table saw, I just finished cutting some half lap joints in red oak, and the results are stunning: a snug connection, a level bottom to the cuts, and no further processing was required. Right off the table saw, it is ready to be assembled with glue.Two: ripping The saw blade is actually designed for this purpose, and it excels in it. With this blade, I can joint one edge of a board at the jointer, rip it to the desired width on the table saw, and then glue the two sides of the board that I cut on the table saw together WITHOUT ANY GAPS. Since my jointer leaves some ribbing on the boards if I run them quickly, the surface I cut with this blade is usually better and more "glue ready" than the surface I joined.Cross-cutting! 3 Although it wasn't exactly one of the reasons I purchased this blade, I decided I should nonetheless bring it up. I had to cross-cut plywood in order to calibrate my crosscut sled (I use the five-cut approach). Although it wasn't quite as smooth as if I had used my 80 teeth crosscutting blade, the plywood surface was still remarkably smooth. I probably won't bother changing the blade for cross-cutting hardwood or plywood unless I know the cut will be visible.The blade does run quite quietly, and despite the fact that my table saw only has 1 3/4 HP, it operates this full width saw blade without any issues at all.This blade is fantastic, especially for the price. I heartily endorse it.
4.3/5
Premium TiCo HI-Density Carbide Ripping Blend for Maximum Performance
Extra Large, Flat Tooth Design leaves a smooth finish without the need for sanding or jointing
10" Blade Diameter, 24 Teeth, FLAT Grind, 5/8" Arbor, .126" Kerf, 20° Hook Angle
Laser-Cut Anti-Vibration Slots drastically reduce vibration and sideways movement in the cut extending blade life and giving a crisp, splinter-free flawless finish
Silver Ice Coating resists corrosion and pitch build-up
$234
Today, I had the opportunity to test this blade by resawing some old, seasoned angelin, which is a really hard wood that still contains a lot of resin 25 years after I first bought it. It performed extremely well, cutting 11 cm (4 1/2 inch) in just two passes with a 2.25 HP saw. - Of course, it would be shrewd to make additional passes, perhaps at 30 mm (1 1/4 inch), but I was searching for extreme circumstances and I was genuinely shocked to get a clean cut with a 1/8 inch rip blade!I had to use a nylon brush to clean the blade's teeth after demounting it because they had resin adhering to them.In conclusion, I heartily advise using that blade. Even with a weak table saw and cutting a lot of wood at once, it does marvels. Perfect for a blade with a big kerf!
3.8/5
Precision-ground circular saw teeth for smooth, accurate cuts
Fully-hardened circular saw blade plate runs truer, longer
Precision-ground circular saw teeth for smooth, accurate cuts
180 teeth count with top/face grind
Heavy-gauge, high-carbon steel construction provides extended circular saw blade life
10" blade length with 5/8" arbor and 0.09" kerf
Fully-hardened circular saw blade plate runs truer, longer
$234
The bamboo flooring responded quite well to this blade. I've used two of them, but any flooring expert will tell you that bamboo is one of the most durable floors ever created. It cost little and performed the job. I'm not sure if this blade would hold up to the demands of a construction site, but if you need to cut some wood and don't want to spend $50 to $100 on a single blade, give one of them a shot. I'll have a few of these on hand because I believe you can get several cuts out of one blade on softer wood.
There is no definitive answer when it comes to the number of teeth a miter saw blade should have. However, a good rule of thumb is to look for a blade with at least 24 teeth. This will ensure that the blade can make clean, precise cuts.
A saw is a tool that's used to cut through materials like wood and metal. The blade is the part of the saw that does the cutting, and the teeth are the sharp edges on the blade that do the cutting. The more teeth there are on a blade, the finer the cut will be. So, if you're looking for a saw blade that will make a very smooth, precise cut, you'll want one with more teeth. But if you're looking for a saw blade that will make a quick, rough cut, you'll want one with fewer teeth.
There is a difference between mitre saw blades and table saw blades, but it is not a huge one. Both types of blades are designed to cut through wood, but mitre saw blades are slightly smaller in diameter and have fewer teeth than table saw blades. This makes them better suited for cutting angles and intricate shapes.
There are a few things to consider when purchasing a blade for your miter saw. The first is the size of the blade. The most common sizes are 10-inch and 12-inch. The second is the tooth count. The higher the tooth count, the smoother the cut. The third is the kerf, or width of the blade. The wider the blade, the more material it can remove with each pass. When choosing a blade for your miter saw, it is important to consider the type of material you will be cutting. For example, a blade with more
There are a few brands that come to mind when thinking about the best saw blade and they are Dewalt, Bosch, and Makita. Dewalt makes a great all-purpose saw blade that can be used for a variety of tasks. Bosch makes a great blade for those who need a more precise cut. Makita makes a great blade for those who need a durable and long lasting blade.
A 100 tooth saw blade is a type of saw blade that is typically used for making very fine, precise cuts in wood. These types of saw blades have a very small number of teeth, which allows them to cut through wood very smoothly and without leaving behind any rough edges. 100 tooth saw blades are also typically used for cutting through softer woods, such as pine or cedar, as well as for cutting through plastic and other softer materials.
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