No, all PC power supplies are not the same. Different power supplies have different wattage outputs and different connector types. Some power supplies are also modular, meaning that you can add or remove cables as needed.
Most PC power supplies are universal, meaning they can be used with any PC. However, some power supplies are specific to certain types of PCs, so it is important to check compatibility before purchasing a new power supply.
Most PC power supplies are not universal, meaning they are not compatible with all types of computers. The most common type of power supply is the ATX power supply, which is only compatible with ATX-style motherboards. Other types of power supplies include the BTX power supply, which is only compatible with BTX-style motherboards, and the SFX power supply, which is only compatible with SFX-style motherboards.
When looking for a power supply for your PC, the most important factor to consider is the wattage. The wattage is the maximum amount of power that the power supply can provide. To find the wattage you need, add up the wattage of all the components in your PC. Another factor to consider is the type of power supply. There are two types: ATX and BTX. ATX power supplies are the most common and will work with most PCs. BTX power supplies are newer and more efficient, but they are not compatible with all PCs.
4.9/5
18 AWG Cable
UL Listed
Includes noise filter for added stability
5ft Cable Length
3.5A USB-C power supply specially designed and tested for the Raspberry Pi 4
$234
I bought this because I'll soon be getting a Raspberry Pi 4 and I don't currently have a power adapter with a USB type C connector. I see that the Raspberry Pi 3 only uses 2.5A of the full 3.5A output current from this adaptor. Its output voltage is slightly biased up from 5V to 5.1V, most likely to account for connection and cable losses. I'm pleased to find that this has both the double insulation box inside a box and the UL designation. I'm happy I made this buy. I wish it had a switch to turn it on and off, though. To accomplish it, I detest having to unhook the connector.
4.5/5
5 Feet cord length
Micro USB plug
Output 5V DC 2.5A Regulated Input 100V to 240V AC
UL Listed
Tested with all versions of the Raspberry Pi including the Pi 2 and Pi 3
$234
Nothing is more annoying than spending time troubleshooting system hangs or small peripheral performance issues (wifi, camera), only to discover that your power is unstable. My requirements for Raspberry Pi power supplies are pretty high. I needed a replacement after my chosen brand vanished from Amazon (at least in terms of its present and expected availability). After weighing my options, I chose the CanaKit. I recently bought two more after buying my first one a few months ago. These seem to be solidly constructed and efficient. Though I have no reason to think they won't, I'm curious to see how they hold up over time.
4.4/5
3 Year Warranty
Compatibility of the EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W,Power Supply 100 W1 0500 KR (100 W1 0500 KR)
EVGA 500Watt ; unbeatable value
Heavy duty protections, including OVP (Over Voltage protection); UVP (Under Voltage protection, OCP (Over current protection), OPP (over Power Protection), and SCP (short circuit protection)
80 plus White Certified, with 80percentage efficiency or higher under typical loads
$234
I am analyzing the 500 watt version.This is an ATX desktop supply that measures 140mm (5.51") in depth, 150mm (5.91") in height, and 85mm (3.35") in width. Almost all full, mid, and micro ATX cases will accommodate this small model. (This is NOT an AC adaptor for a laptop.)The connectors have clear labels and are well-formed.Quantity: / Connector type / Number of plugs at roughly equal lengthThis 20 4 type connection can fit both ATX24 pin and ATX20 pin main boards. Quantity: 1 24 Pin (20 4) ATX 19"One EPS 8 Pin (4 4) quantity Both EPS4 pin and EPS8 pin main boards will accommodate this 4 4 type connector, which measures 23".2 PCIE 8pin (6 2) at 21" and 26", respectively.Both PCIE6 and PCIE8 video cards will fit these 6 2 connectors.Qty:6 SATA, 17", 22", and 26 inchesQty: 3 Four-Pin Peripheral, 1 @17", 1 @22", and 1 @27"Qty: 1 Disc 31"This supply is equipped with OVP (Over Voltage Protection), UVP (Under Voltage Protection), OCP (Over Current Protection), OPP (Over Power Protection), SCP (Short Circuit Protection), and OTP (Over Temperature Protection). It is rated at the amperage below (Over Temperature Protection).500W at 40C, 3.3V, 24A, 5V, 20A, 12V, 40A, 5Vsb, and 3A, -12V,.3AThis power supply includes a sizable fan that automatically regulates speed so that it is quiet when operating under light to moderate load. It can become a little noisy when under a lot of load, but not much more so than any other 80 supply I've used. On the back of this supply is an on/off switch.My experience with this supply: When I checked the voltages and power-up times, they both met specifications. When I installed it, I did a 12-hour burn-in test, and the supply passed without any problems. (***Update 2016: I've owned this power supply for more than two years; I did the 12-hour stress test again, and the supply passed without a hitch. ***)Will this supply function in your PC is the major question. This query should be clarified by the list that follows.Form factor: Are your motherboard and case compliant with the ATX standard?Make sure your mainboard and case are compatible with ATX. ATX is the most widely used standard, but others exist, such as BTX or ITX. You should be able to find this information on product spec sheets or by contacting the maker of your computer.Are the connectors you require provided?Make a list of your parts and confirm that this supply has a connector for each one. There are plenty of connectors in this supply, so you probably won't need more than what they offer.Are the cables mentioned above long enough?Make sure to check the cable lengths if you're using a full-size case. For instance, if your supply is located on top, you might need a cable extension to reach a bottom-mounted SSD.Power: Can your system operate at 500 watts?To determine your system's power needs, use a free power supply calculator online. Although there are many alternative options, I choose the OuterVision Power Supply Calculator. Generally speaking, you want at least 20% more watts than what your system needs.Can your video card function with the Amps offered at 12v?This does not apply if you are using on-board (motherboard-integrated) video. However, if you have a discrete video card, confirm the card's manufacturer's recommended 12v rail voltage. Generally speaking, you want at least 20% more amps than what your card needs.Replacement of a proprietary system: If the replacement is for a proprietary system (a pre-built computer purchased from a store), make sure your power supply is ATX-compliant first, and then swap it out for one with a higher wattage and amperage. Verify the wattage and each rail of your existing supply by looking at the sticker on the side, and make sure they are higher or equal. Consult your computer's maker if you have any questions.The replacement power supply for a 2003 or earlier model does not have a legacy -5v connection. Your computer might require this legacy -5v connection if it was built in 2003 or before and still uses an ISA bus. In other words, this supply might not work for you if your present supply has a white wire on the ATX connector. Consult your computer's maker if you have any questions.In every situation, I urge you to test any power supply before connecting it to real devices. Even though faulty supplies are uncommon, using one could ruin any or all of your pricey components. For this task, I recommend the Coolmax LCD Power Supply Tester PS-228 (ASIN B002R06PGE), however there are several other excellent ATX power testers available.Overall, considering the inexpensive price (about $40), it's a great supply.So why only four stars?My initial unit was returned since it had a defective fan. Since then, I've installed a lot more, and I've encountered no issues with any of them, so I'm very sure this was an anomaly. Don't allow the occasional lemon—which every manufacturer makes—keep you from purchasing this supply. There are no concerns at this point because, in my experience, EVGA stands behind their products and honors their warranties.In the future, I'll get another power supply from EVGA, and I do suggest them to others.
4.4/5
Zero RPM fan mode for near silent operation at low to medium loads; Continuous output rated temperature: 50°C
100 percent industrial grade, 105°C rated Japanese capacitors ensure unwavering power and reliability
Tuned for low noise operation even at full load; MTBF hours: 100,000 hours
80 PLUS Gold certified for lower power consumption, less noise and cooler temperatures
Fully modular cables, so you only connect the cables your system needs
$234
I suppose I had bad luck.I discovered some grey substance inside my original PSU when I was installing it since I could see it through the fan grate. I assumed it was some kind of thermal paste or other protective material, perhaps even a gel to stop electrical arcing. The device had this grayish, seemingly hardened goop in the bottom despite being entirely factory sealed and never having been opened. Although it was a little strange, I didn't give it much thought at the moment.Later in my story, I'll return to this goop.This PSU from Corsair has a ten-year warranty and is one of their most well-known models. Unfortunately, approximately two weeks after I installed my own power supply in my system, it stopped working. My computer made a loud electric crack, and the system shut down instantly. Nothing happened when I pressed the power button.Oh [censored], having a PSU die on you is very horrible, is what I said. Either the PSU was the only one to take the hit, or the PSU killed both itself and everything connected to it. Your computer's power source is somehow linked to every component within. Damage in the hundreds or thousands of dollars could be at stake.Fortunately, only my PSU was damaged; my complete system was spared. I disconnected it from my computer and plugged it into a wall before connecting it to my old PC and turning it on. It received enough power from the PSU for a brief period of time, but after that it started to make a clicking noise as if a safety breaker had been tripped, and the device went off.The RMA process for the PSU was comparatively simple, but in my experience, the only way to get Corsair to move the RMA process forward was by calling their support line. Before my RMA request was authorized and I was able to ship the PSU to them on my own cost, I had to call them twice on the phone. The cost of shipping back to them is not covered by them.Although I am aware that these big businesses have a lot of calls and tickets to handle, the fact that my RMA wasn't processed until I had called them twice and waited almost an hour on hold is unacceptable. It's possible that Corsair was having a poor week when I had my issue, but it was still very upsetting, especially when a brand-new product fails.Fortunately, they sent me a new one with 1-day expedited shipping the same day they received my dead PSU! The day after the damaged PSU arrived, my replacement one delivered at my door. The $17 I spent to mail the dead one back to them, I suppose, has been repaid.I checked the inside of my new PSU one again after receiving it. I was surprised to find no gray goo. I used a flashlight and my eyes, but I couldn't see a drop. Grey goop was painfully visible in my last unit, the one that died, and it was easily seen through the grate. This device? Never a drop.
4.4/5
Fully modular cables, so you only connect the cables your system needs
100 percent industrial grade, 105°C rated Japanese capacitors ensure unwavering power and reliability
Tuned for low noise operation even at full load; MTBF hours 100,000 hours
Zero RPM fan mode for near silent operation at low to medium loads
80 PLUS Gold certified for lower power consumption, less noise and cooler temperatures
$234
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4.3/5
80 PLUS Certified – 80percentage efficiency under typical load. Power good signal is 100 to 500 millisecond
5 Year Warranty
Industry Grade Protections: (OPP) Over Power Protection, (OVP) Over Voltage Protection, (SCP) Short Circuit Protection
Supports (2) PCI E 6+2pin Connectors. Active (PFC) Power Factor Correction, MTBF: 100,000 hours
Hold up time is 16 millisecond minimum within 60 percent load. Input frequency range 50 to 60 in Hertz
Delivers 600 watt Continuous output @ +40℃. Compliance with Intel ATX 12 Volt 2.31 & EPS 12V 2.92 standards
High Quality Components
Equipped with a powerful +12V rail, superior performance under all types of system loading
$234
Works great, is VERY quiet, and is an easy drop-in replacement. I replaced the dead power supply with this one in 10 minutes.The quantity and arrangement of power connectors for each model of Thermaltake SMART power supply are useful details that are absent from the product descriptions (and also from the manufacturer's product website). The quantity of product queries on the Amazon product page that ask how many (and what kind of) connectors are included as evidence of this.For instance, the SMART "80 White" 700W supply (the one I bought on Amazon) is stated as having 6 SATA connectors in addition to 5 "peripheral" connectors. Here is the crucial information that was left out:1. There are TWO cables with TWO SATA connectors each, totaling SIX SATA connectors. The two SATA cables are insufficient if your six (or more) storage devices are organized in pairs, each pair in a different corner of the chassis. One of the two MOLEX-equipped power cables can be used, and a MOLEX-to-SATA adaptor can be purchased. But prior to making a purchase, this information should be made available and prominently disclosed.The five "peripheral" connectors are in fact standard MOLEX connectors, according to 2.a Why hide the type of power connectors that are included from customers?2.b The five Molex connectors are set up on TWO cables, one with three Molex connectors and the other with two Molex connectors and a floppy connector.Although they are inexpensive and easily accessible from Amazon (and other places), MOLEX-to-SATA adapters and SATA-to-MOLEX adapters are not included with the Thermaltake supply.
4.3/5
EVGA 500 br - "Bronze reliable"
Heavy-duty protections, including OVP, UVP, OCP, OPP, SCP and OTP
3 year Warranty & EVGA 24/7 technical support
80 plus Bronze certified, with 85% efficiency or higher under typical loads
$234
a good PSUI opened this Evga 450BT to see whether it was circuited, and I was astonished by what I discovered.The device employs a common forward topology (check this out in order to understand this review better).Starting with the mains, the device has a ceramic fuse directly behind the power switch. I am unable to check the rating of this fuse, but it is still great to have a ceramic fuse rather than a glass one. You will need to desolder the smaller board beneath the power switch in order to replace the fuse, despite the fact that it is quite awkwardly located and cannot be done simply.Moving on, we have 4 Class X2 caps and 7 Class Y caps, which is a bit excessive. We also have 2 common mode inductors at the input for EMI suppression. Finally, we have a varistor after the fuse, which does the following: if the mains voltage rises too high, the varistor shorts the mains and opens the fuse. However, its rating cannot be seen because it is enclosed in a heatshrink.We now reach the primary bridge rectifier, which is oddly blank on the front (perhaps because it faces the heatsink). Despite this, there is no cause for concern because the high voltage side of these PSUs functions with low currents.The primary filter cap, a 400V, 270 uF teapo cap rated for 105 degrees, comes after a relay and a thermisistor. The thermisistor's purpose is to lower the high start current of the main capacitor. There is also a sizable inductor used for the active PFC following the rectifier (again, more EMI protection).The PFC transistor and the primary switching transistor are both 5R280CE, and they both have a bridge rectifier heatsink and an 11 Amp rating at 100 degrees Celsius.For the 12V secondary, two S30M60C are used in parallel; each is rated for 30A at 100 degrees (for a total of 60A at 100 degrees), which is again overkill for a device rated at 35A for 12V. Also teapo 105 degrees are all secondary caps.The following components make up 12V: the aforementioned diodes, a common mode inductor (shared with 5V), a 2200 uF capacitor, a second inductor, and a 1000 uF capacitor.One S30M45C, a 1500 uF cap, an inductor, and another 1500 uF cap make up 5V.Mag amp, 1 S30M45C, 3300 uF cap, inductor, 1500 uF cap: 3.3 V.Unable to read the model, an SMD diode is under the PCB at -12V. Inductor -> 220 uF cap -> 330 uF cap.One S30M60C -> Inductor -> 1500 uF cap is the 5VSB circuit.As a result, practically every rail has a built-in pi filter. To keep ripple as minimal as possible, this is crucial.On the secondary, we have a GR8323, and the controller chips are a FAN4800C and an EM8564A.All of the output wires are 18 gauge, black, and have an 80 degree rating.Overall, the device is excellent and should be able to produce its claimed watts and possibly a little bit more, depending on how the over current protection is adjusted. A unit that is several times as expensive as this one would be expected to have a higher level of overkill.Edit: A GBU806 main bridge rectifier was used (the heatsink had to come off).The varistor is a 10D561K, which is the wrong part for this because the clamping voltage is far higher than the GBU806 can tolerate. They ought to have substituted a 10D431K.Edit3: One of my units perished. The relay circuit on the primary side was harmed, and nearly all of the secondary diodes failed short. really strangeEdit: It was fixed. I still don't know what happened to the diodes, but I have a suspicion that it had something to do with the fact that this unit lacks OTP, was placed in an extremely hot environment with little airflow for its fan, was running a PC with an RX480 and a GTX1060 mining continuously, and that the unit regulates the fan speed (likely uses the voltage drop across the shunts as reference for the fan speed). The diodes probably deteriorated because the fan was not operating at maximum capacity and they became excessively hot.The unit's primary side transistor, which switches it on, also needed to be replaced. It appears to have a hysteresis problem since when the transistor failed, I could hear the relay rapidly switching. The transistor has a Y1 mark on top and is an NPN transistor. The 16V zener diode adjacent to the transistor also failed.Edit5: The NTC that regulates the fan speed is next to the secondary heatsink and isn't working; I hit it with a soldering iron and the fan speed didn't change in the least. It was covered by some black glue. That explains everything; the fan always operated at the lowest speed.
Voltage is one of the most important aspects to consider when buying a desktop computer. The amount of voltage a desktop needs depends on the type of processor it has. For example, an Intel Core i7-7700K processor needs a minimum of 12 volts, while an AMD Ryzen 7 1800X processor needs 11 volts.
No, not necessarily. It depends on what you need and want from your PC. If you need a lot of power for gaming or other resource-intensive activities, then you'll want a higher-wattage power supply. But if you're just using your PC for basic tasks, a lower-wattage power supply will be just fine and may even be more energy-efficient.
connectors are called? Most PC power connectors are called either "Molex" or "JST" connectors. Molex connectors are usually found on older PCs, while JST connectors are more common on newer ones. Both types of connectors are used to connect the power supply to the motherboard.
A computer power supply is a device that provides the power for a computer. There are three types of computer power supplies: AC adapter, DC adapter, and UPS. AC adapter: An AC adapter is a power supply that converts alternating current (AC) into direct current (DC). DC adapter: A DC adapter is a power supply that converts direct current (DC) into alternating current (AC). UPS: A UPS is a power supply that provides backup power in case of a power outage.
A power supply has four basic parts: a transformer, a rectifier, a filter, and a regulator. The transformer steps up or steps down the AC voltage to the proper level. The rectifier converts the AC voltage to DC. The filter removes any AC ripple from the DC. The regulator controls the DC voltage to the proper level.
The four types of power supply are AC power supply, DC power supply, linear power supply, and switching power supply. AC power supply is the most common type of power supply. It converts AC power to DC power. DC power supply is used to power DC devices. Linear power supply converts AC power to DC power using a linear regulator. Switching power supply converts AC power to DC power using a switch mode power supply.
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