4.8/5
Offering the quality, reliability, and durability of GM OE
Work with vehicle electronics to help optimize vehicle capabilities
Manufactured to GM OE specification for fit, form, and function
GM-recommended replacement part for your GM vehicle’s original factory component
$234
The brake switch functioned just as it should have in the first place, which made me very happy. My 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT's cruise control did not activate when I tried to turn it on. My brake lights were functional, but my cruise control was not. I discovered this by depressing the set button, which is located directly below the cruise control button, after pushing the cruise control button on the left side of the steering wheel. When you press "set," a light that resembles the one seen at https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Cruise Control.svg/2000px-Cruise Control.svg.png should appear on the gauge cluster. If that light illuminates on the gauge cluster after you press the set button, your cruise control is functioning properly. If it does not, however, you most likely have a broken brake switch. When I pressed set for my application, nothing happened. After considerable investigation, I concluded that this was probably the problem. I decided it was worthwhile to try for only $13. Today I received the component, which was contained in a medium-sized packaging envelope and a small plastic ACDelco bag. You'll require a flathead screwdriver, a flash light, and a ratcheting 10 mm wrench. I was able to complete the task after watching this video at https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=pHwWV98wBZU
4.8/5
Manufactured to GM OE specification for fit, form, and function
GM-recommended replacement part for your GM vehicle’s original factory component
Offering the quality, reliability, and durability of GM OE
Work with vehicle electronics to help optimize vehicle capabilities
$234
There was a recall for the first generation Colorados due to brake switch issues. Years ago, when my truck was being recalled, I had my brake switch replaced. Recently, I became aware that my brake lights were missing, and the switch the dealer had installed had broken. I purchased this one on Amazon, and it was an easy change that gave me back my brake lights. Installation only took a few minutes and is a direct match.
4.6/5
Stop Lamp Switch
$234
We were having difficulties starting our 2008 Nissan Altima. It would occasionally start. On occasion, it wouldn't. When I examined how the brake lights responded, I found that the switch was broken. All is well after this switch was replaced.UPDATE: It's still operating flawlessly two years later. We can only hope that it outlives the original.
4.6/5
Resists abrasion and corrosion
Made of high quality
Highly durable and reliable
Manufactured under stringent standards
Easy installation
$234
I ordered this switch to replace my 2000 Ranger's intermittent one, and it is an exact OEM replacement down to the original number. The installation was really simple and just took a few minutes. The hardest part was laying upside down and seeing up behind the steering wheel because my eyesight wasn't as good as it used to be. The locking cotter pin was removed, the old switch was removed from the brake pedal shaft and unplugged from the wiring harness, the connections were cleaned before reinstalling, the new switch was plugged in and the assembly was completed in reverse order before the cotter pin was replaced. Now that the lights are in working order, my shifter slides effortlessly out of park, and it functions perfectly. Since the imported (Chinese) part at the auto parts store cost more than twice as much as this precise Motorcraft replacement, this is the only option. Shipping was also quick. It is a no-brainer to buy from this vendor if your car won't shift out of park, and I HIGHLY recommend it. Replace your broken brake switch yourself to avoid paying a repair business a fortune if you have even the slightest mechanical aptitude. DO IT!!
4.5/5
Standard Motor SLS247T T-Series Stoplight Switch (SLS247T)
$234
Fitment guides are helpful but they’re not always perfect so I usually check at my part to be sure the one I’m getting looks like it but it seems some reviews haven’t done so so this item gets dinged for not fitting. The 2-prong one is really different looking than this one so get a flashlight, slide under the dash and have a look because a 1-star for not fitting might be prevented. I was having a hard time getting out of Park in my ’99 Expedition on the first start on very cold mornings (no problems later in the day) so it was either this pretty straightforward to repair item or the Shift Interlock Actuator that’s a bear to get to and entails dropping the steering column. Sooner or later the vehicle would warm up and I could move out of Park but I didn’t want to wait until that wouldn’t happen. The recommended easy test was stepping on the stop in a dark garage to see if the brake lights turned on and they did… but it wasn’t a foolproof test in my case because after changing it the problem was cured though there’s still a temporary delay. On my vehicle you can circumvent the whole locked in Park by turning the key a single click toward on (no dash lights unless you went too far) and then shift to Neutral and start it. I’ve now had it with this vehicle and it has to leave since of the known concerns Ford overlooked and all the electronics that can interfere with what you want to do. If you have an Expedition about the age of mine you may know about the blend door issue; the blown spark plug right out of a cylinder; the odometer cold solder that makes it work part of the time; hard cold start with fuel pump; and the generally impossible engine to work on with any modicum of ease. Anyway, check first to see what switch you need and this one went in fine and cured the problem and at about 11-bucks I have no complaints and even though my brake lights did come on this was the path of least resistance and I’m pleased I tried it first. I was buying my parts on that major auction site to save a few bucks but after numerous failures I gave up that notion and have had good results with Standard Motor items purchased on this site for fitment and functionality… plus a no-hassle returns policy.
4.4/5
100% tested for both mechanical and electrical performance
Made to fit OE wiring harness and plugs
Manufactured with materials that include anti-corrosion terminals
Application specific to ensure a correct fit for your vehicle
Matches OE form, fit, and function
$234
My 2008 Nissan Altima was having trouble starting, but I couldn't find any online information to help me figure out what was wrong. The odd part is that it would occur on occasion without any prior notice. Even though the automobile had been resting for hours or even days, each time I tried to start it, it felt like the brake had been pumped repeatedly. The car would start after being left alone for a brief period of time. I took the car to my mechanic out of frustration and confusion, and he was extremely sure he could fix it. The mechanic called me numerous times, explaining that he tried every test he could think of and contacted as many automakers as possible without being successful.When I got the car home, BAM! It started to occur once more. I reached for a whiskey and kept looking for a solution. When I got to the website www.carcomplaints.com, I discovered a number of other people who had experienced this problem. It turns out that Nissan Altimas from 2008 and 2009 frequently experience this. in particular when the automobile had 70,000 kilometers. My automobile had recently surpassed 74,000 kilometers, I realized. One of the forum users described taking his car to a Nissan dealership, where they informed him that both the brake/switch and the brake harness would need to be replaced. Unfortunately, he had to pay $599 for this procedure. Another forum user said that after changing the brake/switch, the car's issue was resolved. This item, which is a perfect fit for the automobile, was ordered, and it showed very quickly.I was unable to find a tutorial or how-to manual for replacing this component. But I discovered it to be extremely straightforward. To turn the broken brake/switch to the left, you simply depress your brake a little bit. After that, you'll be able to remove the brake switch. The damaged brake/switch needs to be pulled out of the contact in order to be replaced. After that, just carry out the opposite process. Reconnect the brake/switch to the contact by plugging the end with the white tip into the corresponding hole next to the brake pedal. FINISHED! After turning the brake switch a quarter turn to the right! To make sure the brake lights turn on, apply the brake a few times. If the lights are not set to the proper sensitivity, you can turn it to the right. My new brake switch has been in the car for about a month, and it is functioning properly. You will save a ton of money by doing this because Nissan stores won't just replace the brake/switch. They inform you that until they replace the brake/switch and brake harness, they are unable to guarantee the work.
4.2/5
SMP SLS-66 Standard Stoplight Switch
$234
The switch contacts on this item feel wonderful, and it is of very high quality. Two extension leads that fit on the switch's terminals and bridge to the connector in applications where doing so would be extremely challenging, such a Jeep CJ, are included with the switch. Believe me, trying to fit the connector on the installed switch was an ordeal; however, the extension leads saved the day. Just be sure to attach the switch's leads before you install the switch.
4.2/5
Standard Stoplight Switch (SLS237)
$234
My 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT seems to work just fine replacing the OEM switch.It has *reasonable* instructions.You only need to peek up toward the top of your brake pedal from underneath your dashboard. The bracket has been attacked.Disconnect the old one by twisting it out. You might need to buy another one if you don't follow the directions and make a mistake. These may only be set or configured ONCE (or so they say). Even a caveman could do it due of its simplicity.
4/5
Standard Motor SLS208T T-Series Stoplight Switch (SLS208T)
$234
My 1999 Jeep Wrangler TJ fits with this. Compared to my original OEM switch, it appeared that the plunger on this switch was longer, however it is universal. Install the new switch after simply removing the old OEM switch. It will adjust to the second depressed position when it is compressed by the brake lever. Be careful since you can push it all the way down to the third position before pulling it back up. It has a very similar design to the previous OEM switch. It's great for the price, however I wish it came with instructions.
3.4/5
Manufactured with materials that include anti-corrosion terminals
Application specific to ensure a correct fit for your vehicle
Made to fit OE wiring harness and plugs
100% tested for both mechanical and electrical performance
Matches OE form, fit, and function
$234
It leaked from the terminal side of the switch, which caused my brakes to become mushy in addition to leaking brake fluid. It was actually gushing out the front and dripping all over the two terminals and wires, contrary to what I initially believed was happening with the thread fitting into the brake line.Attempts to contact assistance were unsuccessful as of the review date.I would stay away from this change and spend slightly extra on a different brand.It was lighter than the one I replaced it with and just felt cheap to begin with, but I suppose you get what you pay for. present day.EDIT: Customer care did get in touch with me, and Amazon gave me a refund.Customer service is really essential to me, thus I gave them four stars for it.
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