Yes, putty can be used as body filler, but it is not as strong as traditional body filler. Putty is also not as easy to sand as body filler, so it is not the best option for repairing large holes or dents.
You can use Bondo to fill in smaller dents, but it is not recommended for large dents. Bondo is a putty that is used to fill in holes and dents in metal, wood, and fiberglass. It is a quick and easy way to fix smaller dents, but it is not as durable as other methods.
Bondo is a brand name of an automotive repair filler used to fill in dents and holes in a vehicle's body. Many auto body shops use Bondo because it is easy to apply and dries quickly. It can be sanded and painted to match the surrounding area.
Body putty is a type of modeling clay that is used to fill in holes or cracks in surfaces. It is often used to repair plaster walls or to fill in gaps between molding and trim. Body putty takes a few hours to dry completely.
5/5
Sold on Amazon
$234
In addition to spreading putty, these Bondo plastic spreaders may be used for a variety of other activities, such as prying apart devices, squeezing air bubbles out of screen protectors and bumper stickers, and relaxing tense shoulder muscles. I've been able to use the same three for many years in many applications because they are dishwasher safe and are simply cleaned in a sink. Definitely worth the cost!
4.7/5
Assures freshness and maximum performance
$234
Perhaps not much can be written about this product. I shouldn't have to explain what it is used for since you are obviously looking at it. This cream hardener for bondo comes in a lovely, huge tube that is considerably larger than the sample-sized tubes that are typically included with filler. I'm satisfied with my buy overall.
4.4/5
Use during the Fill stage of the 3M Body Repair System
Fiberglass strands and fibers make it twice as strong as regular body filler
Covers small (up to 1/2â€) holes without the need for backing strips, fiberglass resin or cloth
Can be paired with body filler and glaze for complete repairs
Excellent as a foundation for hole, dent and rust-out repair
$234
As a final resort, I had to fix a sizable metal composter that was spinning and rusting from years of use. (Replacing the alternative was an expensive investment. For me, Bondo 764 was the best option.To use, take a small bit of hardener from a "toothpaste" tube, measure it out, and thoroughly combine it with the resin. Since the resin is very viscous due to the fiberglass filler, this is not entirely straightforward. At summertime temperatures, you only have two to three minutes to apply the resin to your product after the hardener and resin have been properly mixed. As a result, you only combine a little at a time.The resin is made remarkably robust by the fiberglass filler. My composter had been pressure washed before I applied the glue to the outside. The thinnest of the corroded metal was removed by pressure washing (from the interior), exposing the weakest spots. I spread the resin with a little spatula-like board over these sections, which were about 5 square feet in size (about 1" wide). I added some fiberglass cloth under the glue because the metal door to the composter had a significant break. I was worried the door, which has to flex a little, would be too rigid, but it flexes just enough and functions flawlessly.I might have used a little bit less hardener than preferred in a few spots. These had a day-long light stickiness, not enough to coat your hand or glove but just enough to make you aware that the material wasn't completely rigid. It perfectly hardened after a day. I think this is a sign of insufficient hardener. (I made an estimate; I didn't measure.)Since then, I've added a significant amount of heavy mass to the composter, and the resin is holding perfectly (about 2 months). It is a strong connection that mostly adhered to oxidized paint. I skipped the resin finishing and sanding because it's a composter. If I'm ever bored, maybe someday...In conclusion, the resin is robust and hardens efficiently. Although the hue is unpleasant, it should be painted. If I need to fix sheet metal again, I'll use this again.
4.4/5
Great for use on fiberglass, wood, metal, aluminium, SMC, and masonry and compatible with all paints systems
Works great on boats
For use during Stage 2 of the 3M Body Repair System
Sands in only 2 minutes
For use during Stage 3 of the 3M Body Repair System
$234
I've used Bondo products for a long time, ever since the little cans of pre-mixed filler were introduced in the early 1970s.I had never used the fiberglass reinforced filler before, so I wasn't sure whether my rudimentary skills would be adequate for utilizing it.After about 20 minutes, it was simple to combine, spread, and form; start by using a rasp (a grater) to knock down all the high spots while the mixture was still quite soft.In a few places, I got bubbles of surface rust. Sanded them down, used Rust Fix by Duplicolor to turn the rust into a paintable foundation, then treated the rust with vinegar and distilled water. Lightly sanded, prepared the Bondo [youtube is a wonderful resource if unclear how to combine it]. Avoid stirring it; instead, fold it into the hardener to achieve a consistent tint. Press it into the areas.Smoothed wonderfully, and now a skim of Bonod Spot and Glazing putty is covering the repairs and drying as I type.I was concerned that the product's fiberglass would be more difficult to deal with than the two-part Bondo I had previously used, but it wasn't.Actually, I believe that this product creates a better repair than the regular stuff. It simply appears different.The more you sand and prepare the surface, the better your completed primer and paint will look. Take your time, be proud of your job, and take your time.
4.4/5
Clear Stress Tough formula for impacts, shock, moisture, heat and vibrations
Triple distilled adhesives for faster stronger bonds
Rhino Glue Pro Kit, Heavy Duty 65 Gram Clear
The Faster Stronger Tougher Glue!
Bonds in seconds plastics, vinyl, wood, rubber, metals, canvas, acrylics, ceramic, glass and more
$234
My review is essentially the same as so many others', but I must add another success story to the review area.My 2010 Mustang convertible's glass came apart from the vinyl top. I called a number of repair firms, and they ALL claimed that it was impossible to fix and that I would need to spend $1500 on a new top. I was not going to accept this, so I googled the problem. A ton of forum users suggested Rhino Glue. It worked flawlessly once I followed the forum users' suggestions. I drove through the carwash with a strong brush and nothing came loose. The window has been reattached.What I did is as follows.To ensure that there is no glue on the seams, I only slightly opened the top—maybe 5 inches. With razorblades and acetone, I thoroughly cleaned the window's interior and exterior edges. Vinyl and window sides. I then began to glue. a plastic card spread out on a very thin sheet. To prevent having to remove too much adhesive from the glass, I covered it with masking tape. I moved in 5 inch segments. Hold it down for a minute until the glue took, then move on to the next piece, etc. I occasionally took a break, but overall, I spent a little over an hour on the window. This stuff sticks like crazy. I left the top down and the car in the garage for two whole days.The top is now stable. Since glue is as strong as rock and I have no idea how long it lasts, I doubt this will come off anytime soon.The terrible... And it's all my fault for not being careful.Avoid applying glue to the vinyl. Be really cautious since when I attempted to remove it with acetone, a small portion of my top became stained. The plastic card needs to be placed on a flat surface because it is covered with adhesive and I accidentally placed it on my trunk (duh!). The glue then got on my paint. Last but not least, several sections of the masking tape were attached to the adhesive when they touched it and would not come off. That was taken care of, and the razor blade also eliminated small pieces of glue from the edges.Although I dreaded doing everything by myself, it turned out to be pretty simple. 2 bottles are included with this set. I hardly made a dent with the small one. I should have this for ever. I can't wait to glue anything new.February 2017 update. It has been more than five months. I frequently passed my automobile through the car wash. I've traversed the US (about 6000 miles). My automobile was in a desert with temps exceeding 100 degrees and cold temperatures when I relocated from Texas to California.I'm pleased to say that the window is still in place. Nothing has changed from the day I glued it; there is no hole. Every time I see my automobile and touch the seams, I continue to be in awe.UPDATE 2: The window is still attached as it was on Day 1 and it is now December 2017.
4/5
Clear Stress Tough formula for impacts, shock, moisture, heat and vibrations
Triple distilled adhesives for faster stronger bonds
Rhino Glue Pro Kit, Heavy Duty 65 Gram Clear
The Faster Stronger Tougher Glue!
Bonds in seconds plastics, vinyl, wood, rubber, metals, canvas, acrylics, ceramic, glass and more
$234
I used this to fix a plastic furniture castor that had broken. I believed I needed to apply it quite thickly to strengthen the structural integrity as it required to support at least 50 pounds.The four steps of the instructions—Prepare, Mix, Apply, and Dry—are printed on the package. Step 4 has an asterisk after it, instructing you to file or sand the surfaces and wash the pieces in detergent. On my initial attempt, I omitted that asterisk. Because I had applied it relatively thickly and the instructions state that it cures in one hour above 40F degrees, I allowed it to cure for five hours at 75F. It immediately broke apart under weight after five hours. Although it was somewhat my fault for not sanding or filing, the epoxy had not yet cured after five hours. I received a product that dried crystal clear and translucent.Tip: Use a Xacto knife to score the surfaces. Step one should unquestionably be this. Sandpaper is unlikely to reach all of the uneven, fractured surfaces that need to be united if you are repairing broken plastic, and a file would deform them, destroying the shape of the seam that has to be combined.I used the Xacto knife to severely score the surfaces on my second attempt. I strongly advise doing this because it provides a lot more surface area for adhesion. After using detergent to clean the pieces, I sprayed them with 91% alcohol. This time, I gave it a full 48 hours to cure, and so far, it's holding.My recommendation is to score the surfaces thoroughly and give it as much time as you can to cure.
4/5
Bondo Professional Glazing & Spot Putty quickly bonds to primer, metal, fiberglass and aluminum and is ready to just 20 minutes
Our putty can be used with all types of paint systems
Get professional looking results - Fast!
$234
This is extremely fantastic stuff. When I used to work in a body shop, they would purchase Nitro Stan spot putty to cover up all of the deep sanding marks. It had a dark orange color and a banana-like aroma. The drying process took some time, which was a drawback.Depending on how much hardener you use, this putty dries rock hard in 10 minutes and doesn't bleed through when you prime over it. What more do you need?
4/5
Bondo Professional Glazing & Spot Putty quickly bonds to primer, metal, fiberglass and aluminum and is ready to just 20 minutes
Our putty can be used with all types of paint systems
Get professional looking results - Fast!
$234
I used this to fix a plastic furniture castor that had broken. I believed I needed to apply it quite thickly to strengthen the structural integrity as it required to support at least 50 pounds.The four steps of the instructions—Prepare, Mix, Apply, and Dry—are printed on the package. Step 4 has an asterisk after it, instructing you to file or sand the surfaces and wash the pieces in detergent. On my initial attempt, I omitted that asterisk. Because I had applied it relatively thickly and the instructions state that it cures in one hour above 40F degrees, I allowed it to cure for five hours at 75F. It immediately broke apart under weight after five hours. Although it was somewhat my fault for not sanding or filing, the epoxy had not yet cured after five hours. I received a product that dried crystal clear and translucent.Tip: Use a Xacto knife to score the surfaces. Step one should unquestionably be this. Sandpaper is unlikely to reach all of the uneven, fractured surfaces that need to be united if you are repairing broken plastic, and a file would deform them, destroying the shape of the seam that has to be combined.I used the Xacto knife to severely score the surfaces on my second attempt. I strongly advise doing this because it provides a lot more surface area for adhesion. After using detergent to clean the pieces, I sprayed them with 91% alcohol. This time, I gave it a full 48 hours to cure, and so far, it's holding.My recommendation is to score the surfaces thoroughly and give it as much time as you can to cure.
Body filler is a type of plastic resin that is used to repair holes and cracks in auto body panels. It is a thick, gooey substance that is applied to the surface of the car and then smoothed out to create a level surface. Body filler is typically used before painting a car, as it provides a smooth surface for the paint to adhere to. Body filler is not a permanent solution, however, and it will eventually need to be replaced. The lifespan of body filler depends on a number of factors, such as the quality of the filler, the type of car
If you are filling a hole larger than 1/8â€, you will need two coats of putty. If the hole is 1/8†or smaller, one coat of putty is usually sufficient.
Bondo is a two-part epoxy putty that can be used to repair holes, dents, and scratches in a variety of surfaces, including metal, wood, and fiberglass. While Bondo is not a permanent fix, it can be a useful way to temporarily repair damage until a more permanent solution can be found.
Epoxy and putty are not the same thing, though they are often used for similar purposes. Putty is a pliable substance that is used to fill in cracks or holes, while epoxy is a hardening glue that is used to bond two surfaces together. Putty is typically made from a mixture of plaster and clay, while epoxy is made from a resin and a hardener.
It's not necessary to paint after putty, but it may be necessary to sand the area smooth before painting.
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