Best Guitar Bridges & Bridge Parts in 2022

Last update: December 4, 2022

Can a cracked guitar bridge be repaired?

If the crack is not too big, the guitar bridge can be repaired. First, the crack needs to be cleaned out with a small file. Next, super glue is applied to the crack and left to dry. Once the glue is dry, the bridge is clamped down so that the glue will hold.

Can a guitar bridge be fixed?

If your guitar's bridge has come loose, you can try to fix it yourself. First, remove the strings from the guitar. Next, check to see if the bridge is still securely glued to the body. If it is, try to re-attach it using a strong glue. If the bridge is not securely glued, you will need to replace it.

How much does guitar bridge repair cost?

The cost of guitar bridge repair can vary depending on the type of guitar and the severity of the damage. Generally, repairs can range from $50 to $200.

What are the 20 parts of guitar?

There are many different parts to a guitar, but the 20 most essential parts are: the body, the neck, the headstock, the tuning machines, the nut, the saddle, the bridge, the pickups, the pots, the knobs, the input jack, the output jack, the volume control, the tone control, the selector switch, the strap buttons, the strings, and the pickups.

TecUnite Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins Puller Pulling Remover Extractor Tool with Guitar Saddle Nut and 12 Pack Guitar Bridge Pins Review:

The essentials package for my steel-string acoustic guitar is wonderful. With the right equipment, re-stringing is a breeze, and you don't want to risk damaging your bridge by attempting to manually pry out bridge pins. A puller is necessary. It's fun to have some diversity or extra pins if you have two guitars, so I appreciate that it comes with two different colors of pins. This, in my opinion, is a necessity for your guitar gear! Very pleased with the value and quality. I particularly like the drawstring bag's storage capacity because it easily fits with my other necessities in the pocket of my gig bag. Since you may never be sure when you'll need something, it's wise to have it on hand!

Blisstime 6pcs Rosewood Guitar Bridge Pins Inlaid Abalone Dot Acoustic Guitar Replacement Parts Review:

On schedule, securely packaged, and in good condition, the pins arrived. The pins went in easily and held firmly. They appear to be considerably more crimson than my computer screen depicted. I had hoped they would match the rosewood bridge on my Yamaha FG 850, but it turned out that rosewood was considerably darker. Fortunately, they appear to blend in with the mahogany wood of the rest of my guitar, so I decided to keep them. Probably would have sent them back if it weren't for that. The abalone dot on my guitar is not as sharp-looking and has a bit of a faded appearance as the inlay surrounding the soundhole. However, considering the cost, these are an excellent upgrade for an acoustic guitar. I'll keep doing business with Blisstime because I'm a satisfied client, but going forward, I'll inquire further before making any purchases with highly particular specifics.

Blisstime 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut and 6pcs Guitar Bone Bridge Pins Made of Real Bone Review:

I spent less than $15 on this bone set from Blisstime to replace what I believe to be plastic equivalents on my Takamine G340 acoustic guitar, which was made in China. Since I only play electric guitars (Strats and Teles, along with a few Gibsons (an LP and SG), Epiphones (a 1990s Sheraton that is entirely cherry, and an SG), a 1990s Jackson Soloist, an Ibanez or two, and a few others), I didn't have an acoustic guitar until a few years ago. Hey, I like guitars and tube amps (there are much too many to list; my family and friends think I'm crazy, but I tell them that only drummers are crazy)... Although I'll wait for now, I do have my eye on a couple different Martins and Taylors. Addictions are undesirable.According on what I can gather, the parts seem to be of rather high quality. When I first picked up the pins, I initially believed they were plastic, but after giving the dice a small shake and holding them in my palm, I could hear good clarity with the jingle they created, as opposed to the lifeless clinking the original plastic pins made. The sound of the nut and saddle lightly landing on my tile countertop reminded me of other bone (and even TUSQ) nuts I've previously put. In order to hear them, I dropped them by less than an inch, so there was no need to stand at an absurd height.Unexpectedly, the adjusted saddle simply slipped into place, fitting snugly without the need for sanding because the height was the same as the original. The pins were somewhat higher in the bridge than the originals but otherwise quite similar to the originals. I imagine that as things deteriorate, they will eventually sink in. Martin, I believe, may have sized the pins a little bit larger in anticipation of their eventual settling.I didn't keep track of how long it took, but I would estimate that I sanded and adjusted the nut for appropriate fitment and first fret string height for around 30 minutes. The width size required the greatest time to sand down. I started out using 600 grit sandpaper, but since I didn't know how soft or hard the bone was to begin with, I eventually switched to 400 grit to speed up the process. In order to completely square it flush in the slot, make some minor adjustments over the course of the current string's life, and polish it off before lightly gluing it in place when I change the strings again in a few weeks or so, depending on how much I play the guitar, I decided not to glue it in yet.This past week, I had just changed the strings after cleaning the instrument, oiling the fretboard, and lightly buffing the frets with 0000 steel wool (I do this by placing blue painters tape over the fretboard to only expose the frets).By the way, I find that MusicNomad F-One Oil works pretty well. And it's American-made. The next thing is for me to review that stuff. On a related topic, I used Ernie Ball Earthwood Light strings this time. They were extremely cheap at GC a while back, so I stocked up on Light and Medium Light. Pro tip: buy strings around major holidays to save money.If I had to describe the difference in the sound between the two, I would say that the lower/wound strings sound a little beefier and more vibrant as they were pushing the air. It also sounds a little brighter but less tinny. The 12 fret harmonics really sounded wonderfully, which was the main thing I noticed. In actuality, all of the harmonics produced this effect, especially with the wrapped strings where it was previously lacking. The notes sounded more vibrant and clear as they approached the 10th and 12th frets, in contrast to how lifeless the plastic counterparts sounded.I am quite pleased with the outcomes overall. If I ever pick up another guitar with plastic parts, I'd buy this kit again. I might order the ebony bridge pins to compare to these bone ones in light of this.

Mr.Power 6 String Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut Made of Real Bone (For classic) Review:

On my brand-new Acoustic Epiphone Master-built J-45, I had to lower the strings so they were closer to the neck. There was no bow in the neck. A compensated bone bridge saddle's bottom needs to be sanded. To ensure that the bone I would be measuring the height down on was actually bone, I ordered the Mr. Power set. Within two or three days, this saddle and nut were delivered. I replaced the medium light Di Amari strings and then sanded the bridge before sliding it into position. The guitar has a great, simple, light, buzz-free action. A bone nut and saddle also produce wonderful clarity and loudness. The instrument is now more manageable to play and produces a lovely sound comparable to a Gibson J-35 or "Working Man" Acoustic I sold a few years ago. I wish I had sanded the saddle on the J-35 myself. The bone nut and saddle, however, really enhance your tone and volume. With no differences in width or length, they completely matched my Epiphone Master-built J-45.

Vencetmat Unbleached Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins,Made of Real Bones,Inlaid Abalone Dot Review:

These slotted bone bridge pins with abalone inlay were delivered extremely swiftly. They were uniform in size and required no alterations to match my existing bridge pin holes. Since the pins are unbleached (just what I wanted), there may be some color variation. It doesn't matter for my guitar, but if you're picky about color consistency, these might not live up to your standards. I'm not sure whether it matters because they all started out slightly differently because bone pins can change color over time anyway. Unbleached is thought to be preferable because the bleaching agent won't damage the bone. I suppose one might not have the same tone or pin longevity if the bone were to be harmed by chemicals. Anyway, just something to be aware of. I'd definitely buy these again.

Fender Replacement Vintage Telecaster Bridge Cover Review:

I bought this to fit over the appropriate "Fender Patent Pending" ashtray bridge to turn a Squier Affinity into a counterfeit Esquire. It does the job superbly. It was a little misshapen and didn't fit quite right when I got it. It only only a tiny squeeze from the palm to restructure it so that it would snap onto the bridge as planned.I'm not sure how effective this is at reducing hum, feedback, or microphonics, and it doesn't work well with contemporary playing techniques where people pick or strum very closely to the saddles, but the way I play, I find I have a nice place to put my palm down while fingerpicking closer to the neck. In addition, it looks awesome. I've always enjoyed the early Fender basses with the pickup covers, and this pickup cover surely looks good too.It also has the additional purpose of hiding the aspects of the guitar that are unmistakably Squier-like, such as the old bridge holes left behind by the longer and broader Squier bridge, because my retrofit of the guitar left behind some unsightly holes. So that you could never retrofit their guitars with Fender parts and pass them off as a Fender, I'm convinced that Fender built everything on Squiers just a little bit bigger than their Fender equivalents. If someone else was creating a "eSquire," I'd advise them not to pass this opportunity up either.

Metallor Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins String Peg Guitar Parts Replacement Pack of 6 Pieces White with Black Dot. Review:

I shattered one of my own when removing it with pliers from my guitar and had to replace it with one of these. met my requirements.

Crosby Audio Pure Bone Bridge Pins with Abalone Dot Inlay for Six String Acoustic Guitar Review:

Based on some inquiries about whether they would fit on a Seagull guitar, I bought these. They arrived, but I couldn't use them because their shape was different from the original pins. However, I discovered that they were a great fit for my Taylor GS Mini, saving me the effort of having to mail them back.It all works out in the end. They did slightly alter the brightness of the sound, which is what I was seeking for in a guitar with a mahogany top.

Blisstime 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut and 6pcs Ebony Guitar Bridge Pins Review:

This guitar modification is absurdly affordable. I have a guitar that I purchased at a big box guitar store for $99 plus tax, which is 50% off. It has a similar tone to vintage birch x-braced guitars produced by Harmony, Kay, Valco, and other companies. For playing slide, I utilize it. I've been making a few little modifications while adhering to the $25 spending cap. I replaced the saddle and bridge pins with these after installing a pickup I had purchased more than ten years earlier on eBay. When I feel like working on something for longer than 15 minutes, I might install the nut. With the potential bone saddle and wooden bridge pins, the guitar has a somewhat different sound—woodier with a little bit more sustain. With the new saddle, the intonation is good. The bridge pins' pearlescent inlay adds a tacky touch that I would never want on a "real" guitar, but it works here. If you don't look for it, the saddle's length is just a little bit too short for the slot.

JLD Bridge Doctor, Screw Mount, for Flattening Bulging Guitar Soundboards Review:

It fulfills its promise. It doesn't combine a neck reset with a top flattening, but it does significantly lessen the bow in the top. I own a 1963 Guild F-30 that I purchased brand-new. When I was younger, I didn't take excellent care of it, thus the top has a noticeable bow. It has a great tone for a guitar. It has a hideous appearance, and people are frequently startled by the sound. I believed that the worst-case scenario was that the device would remain inactive. I had to slightly shorten it during installation, which was an unexpected surprise. It was larger than the body's under-bridge plate cross section. That was resolved in a few minutes using a razor saw. The remainder of the installation went smoothly. I used an electric drill to make a pilot hole in the bridge before enlarging the screw hole with a quick change bit in a ratchet screwdriver. No issues. I believe I could reduce the installation time to under 30 minutes if I completed a few of these.I have shortened the bow and made a few adjustments. Additionally, there is a little more sustain. There is some buzz now that wasn't there before due to the altered neck angle. I haven't yet had a chance to do it.Overall, this is an excellent method to enhance a guitar you value without spending a lot of money on it. Compared to hiring a professional to flatten the top, this is significantly less expensive. It enhances the movement and, in my case, slightly lightens the tone. After installation, some setup is likely to be required. You are altering the guitar's geometry. a drawback In mine, the plastic object referred to as MOP was a dark gray color. To secure it in the hole, I used a small amount of silicone putty.

What are the 3 main parts of a bridge?

A bridge is a structure that spans a physical divide, such as a river or valley, and provides a passage for travelers. Bridges are typically made of stone, wood, or metal, and are designed to withstand the elements and the weight of the traffic that crosses them. The three main parts of a bridge are the foundation, the superstructure, and the deck. The foundation is the part of the bridge that is anchored into the ground or water. The superstructure is the part of the bridge that spans the divide. The deck is the part of the bridge that provides a surface

What are the 4 main parts of a bridge?

A bridge is a structure that helps to span a physical barrier such as a river or valley. Bridges can be made from a variety of materials, but the four main parts of a bridge are the foundation, the abutments, the deck, and the superstructure. The foundation is the part of the bridge that is in contact with the ground or water. The abutments are the support structures that are located at the ends of the bridge. The deck is the part of the bridge that is used by vehicles or pedestrians to cross the span. The superstructure is the part of the

What are the 5 basic parts of a bridge?

Bridges are amazing feats of engineering. They can span great distances and carry a lot of weight. But how do they work? Bridges have five basic parts: the deck, the superstructure, the substructure, the abutments, and the piers. The deck is the part of the bridge that people drive or walk on. It is usually made of concrete or asphalt. The superstructure is the part of the bridge that supports the deck. It is usually made of steel. The substructure is the part of the bridge that supports

What are the 5 main bridge types?

There are five main types of bridges: beam, cantilever, arch, suspension, and cable-stayed. The type of bridge selected for a project is based on many factors including the purpose of the bridge, the length of the span, the terrain, the material, and the budget. Beam bridges are the simplest and most common type of bridge. They are typically used for short spans and are made from wood, concrete, or steel. Cantilever bridges are similar to beam bridges, but they have an additional support at the midpoint of the

What are the 6 basic bridge forms?

There are six basic bridge forms: the beam, the truss, the arch, the suspension, the cantilever, and the cable-stayed.

What are the 7 main bridge designs?

There are seven main types of bridges: beam, cantilever, arch, suspension, truss, cable-stayed and moveable. Beam bridges are the simplest and most common, consisting of horizontal beams supported by piers. Cantilever bridges use two cantilevers, or beams, that extend from opposite sides of the river and are connected at the top by a horizontal beam. Arch bridges are designed to transfer the weight of the bridge and traffic outward, onto the abutments at either end. Suspension bridges have cables that suspend the roadway from towers. Truss bridges