Best Guitar Bridges & Bridge Parts in 2020

TecUnite Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins Puller Pulling Remover Extractor Tool with Guitar Saddle Nut and 12 Pack Guitar Bridge Pins Review:

This is a fantastic kit of essentials for my steel-string acoustic guitar. Re-stringing is a breeze with the proper tools, and you don’t want to risk damage to your bridge by trying to pry out bridge pins by hand. The puller is essential. I like that it comes with two different colors of pins - fun for some variety or if you have two guitars. I consider this a must-have for your guitar supplies! Very happy with the quality and value. I really appreciate the drawstring bag for storage - it fits right inside the pocket of my gig bag along with my other essentials. You never know when you might need it, best to already have it handy!

Blisstime 6pcs Rosewood Guitar Bridge Pins Inlaid Abalone Dot Acoustic Guitar Replacement Parts Review:

Pins arrived on time, well packaged and in good condition. The pins slipped right in and held securely. They seem much redder in color than my computer screen picked up. Was hoping they would blend in with the rosewood bridge on my Yamaha FG 850 but that rosewood turned out to be much darker. Luckily, they seem to match the mahogany wood of the rest of my guitar so I kept them. Would of probably returned them if that wasn't the case. The abalone dot is a bit faded and is no where near as crisp looking as the inlay around the soundhole of my guitar. Still, for the price these are a great addition to an acoustic guitar. I'll continue to be a happy customer of Blisstime but will ask for more detail before buying anything with very specific details from now on.

Blisstime 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut and 6pcs Guitar Bone Bridge Pins Made of Real Bone Review:

I purchased this bone set (saddle, pins, and nut) from Blisstime for under $15 to replace what I assume to be plastic counterparts on my Takamine G340 acoustic that was Crafted in China. I picked this guitar up really cheap at an auction a few years ago because I didn't have an acoustics being that I just play electrics - Strats and Teles are my main pieces of wood, along with a few Gibsons (an LP and SG), Epis (90's Sheraton that's totally cherry and an SG), 90's Jackson Soloist, an Ibanez or two, and a few others. Hey, I like guitars - and tube amps (way too many to list - friends and family think I'm nuts, but I tell them, only the drummers are nuts - hehehe)....I do have my eyes on a few different Martins and Taylors - but will hold off for now. Addictions are a bad thing.

The quality of the parts appear pretty good from what I can tell. Initially, I thought the pins were plastic when I first picked them up, but upon holding them in my hand and giving a little shake of the dice, I could hear good clarity with the jingle they made, as compared to the lifeless clinking the original plastic pins made. Lightly dropping the nut and saddle on my tile countertop sounded similar to other bone (and even TUSQ) nuts I've installed before...I dropped them less than an inch to hear them, so no crazy height going on to prevent any damage.

Surprisingly, the compensated saddle dropped right in, fitting nice and snug with no sanding necessary as the height was identical to the original. The pins were pretty close to the originals, sitting a little higher in the bridge, but I'd imagine over time, they will settle in as things wear down. I think it's Martin that may have the pins a little larger knowing that they will settle over the years...

I lost track of time, but I would guess it took me about a half an hour to sand and adjust the nut for proper fitting and first fret string height. Sanding the width size down took the most time. I initially used 600 grit sandpaper, but then went down to 400 grit to speed up the process being that I didn't know how soft/hard the bone was to begin with. I didn't glue it in yet being that I will make some minor adjustments over the course of the current string's life, totally square it flush in the slot, and intend to pass it a few times with 1000/1200/2000/etc grit sandpaper to polish it up prior to lightly gluing it in place when I change the strings again in a few weeks or so depending on how much I play it.

I had just changed the strings this past week after cleaning the guitar, lightly buffing the frets with 0000 steel wool (I apply blue painters tape over the fretboard, just exposing the frets), and oiling the fretboard...MusicNomad F-One Oil works really good for me, btw. And it's made in the U.S.A. I need to write a review for that stuff next.....another side note, the strings I used this time were Ernie Ball Earthwood Light - GC had them crazy cheap a while back so I stocked up on Light and Medium Light - be sure to buy strings near major holidays to save your hard earned $$$ - pro tip. ;)

Comparing the sound before and after, I would have to say it sounds a little brighter, yet less tinny, and the lower/wound strings sound a little beefier and more vibrant as they were pushing the air if I had to say. The biggest thing I noticed was the 12 fret harmonics really rang nicely. Actually, all of the harmonics did, especially with the wound strings where it was lacking before. I also noticed that going past the 10-12th frets, the notes sounded more lively and clear where the plastic counterparts sounded kinda lifeless.

Overall, I am really happy with the results. I would purchase this kit again for any future guitar I might pick up that has plastic parts. With that being said, I might order the ebony bridge pins to compare them to these bone ones.

Mr.Power 6 String Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut Made of Real Bone (For classic) Review:

I needed to bring the strings down closer to the neck on my new Acoustic Epiphone Master built J-45. The neck had no bow to it. I needed to sand the bottom of a compensated bone bridge saddle. I ordered the Mr. Power set to insure it was really bone that I would be sizing the height down on. This saddle and nut arrived within two or three days . I sanded the bridge and slid it into place with a new set of medium light Di Amari strings. The guitar has a wonderful, easy and light action with no buzzes. Also the clarity and volume you get with a bone nut and saddle is heavenly. The guitar is now easier to play and sounds as nice as a Gibson J- 35 or "Working Man" Acoustic I sold a couple of years ago. I wish I would have done the saddle sanding on the J-35. Anyway the bone nut and saddle truly improve your tone and volume. They fit my Epiphone Master built J-45 perfectly with no width or length difference.

Vencetmat Unbleached Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins,Made of Real Bones,Inlaid Abalone Dot Review:

These abalone inlaid slotted bone bridge pins arrived very quickly. They were uniform in sizing and they fit my existing bridge pin holes exactly without any modifications. The pins are unbleached (which is specifically what I wanted), so the color from pin to pin can vary a little. For my guitar, it doesn't matter, but if you're fussy about 100% consistent color, these might not meet that expectation. Bone pins can change color over time anyway, so I'm not sure that them all starting out a little different matters. Unbleached is .supposed to be better because the bone won't be degredated by whatever is used to bleach them. I would imagine if the bone were to become damaged by chemicals, one might not get the same tone or pin longevity. Anyway, that's all something to keep in mind. I would 100% purchase these again.

Fender Replacement Vintage Telecaster Bridge Cover Review:

I bought this to go over the corresponding "Fender Pat. Pend." ashtray bridge to make a knockoff Esquire out of a Squier Affinity. It performs the task admirably. When received, it was a little deformed and didn't fit correctly. Just a slight squeeze with the hand was all it took to reshape it to snap on to the bridge as intended.

I'm not actually sure how much this actually works to reduce feedback, hum, or microphonics, and it definitely doesn't suit modern playing styles where people pick or strum really close to the saddles, but the way I play I find I have a nice place to put my palm down while fingerpicking closer to the neck. Plus it looks super cool. I've always liked the early Fender basses with the pickup covers, and I definitely like the look of this pickup cover as well.

Since my retrofit of the guitar left behind some ugly holes, it performs the added function of covering up the obviously Squier-y elements of the guitar, like the old bridge holes left behind by the longer and wider Squier bridge. I'm convinced that Fender made everything on Squiers just a little bit bigger than their Fender equivalents so you couldn't ever retrofit their guitars with Fender parts and pass it off as a Fender. I'd recommend if someone else was making an "eSquire" that they shouldn't pass this up either.

Metallor Acoustic Guitar Bridge Pins String Peg Guitar Parts Replacement Pack of 6 Pieces White with Black Dot. Review:

I broke one of my own on my guitar pulling it out with pliers and replaced it with one of these. Met my expectations.

Crosby Audio Pure Bone Bridge Pins with Abalone Dot Inlay for Six String Acoustic Guitar Review:

I ordered these for a Seagull guitar based on a couple of questions as to whether they would fit on it. After they arrived, their shape was different from the original pins so I couldn’t use them. However, I found that they fit my Taylor GS Mini perfectly saving me the trouble of sending them back.
Alls well that ends well. They did change the brightness of the sound a little which is what I was looking for on a mahogany top guitar.

Blisstime 6 String Acoustic Guitar Bone Bridge Saddle and Nut and 6pcs Ebony Guitar Bridge Pins Review:

This is an insanely cheap guitar tweak. I have a guitar that I bought for half off ($99 + tax) at a big box guitar store. It sounds like the birch x-braced guitars that used to be made by Harmony, Kay, Valco, and others. I use it for playing slide. I've been making some minor mods with the criterion that I spend no more than $25 total. I installed a pickup I bought on ebay over 10 years ago and changed out the saddle and bridge pins with these. I may install the nut when I feel like spending more than 15 minutes on it. The guitar sounds slightly different with the possibly bone saddle and wooden bridge pins--a bit woodier with a tiny bit more sustain. The intonation with the new saddle is fine. The pearlescent inlay on the bridge pins adds a cheezy aspect that I would never want on a "real" guitar but for this one it's appropriate. The saddle is not quite long enough for the slot but it's not noticeable unless you look for it.

JLD Bridge Doctor, Screw Mount, for Flattening Bulging Guitar Soundboards Review:

It does what it claims. It's not a combination neck reset and top flattening, but it does reduce the bow in the top considerably. I have a 1963 Guild F-30 that I bought new. I didn't take very good care of it when I was younger and the top has a pronounced bow. It's a very nice sounding guitar. It's horrible looking and people are often surprised by the sound. I figured that the worst that would happen would be that the device wouldn't do anything. One little installation surprise was that I had to cut it down a bit. It was bigger than the cross section of the body under the bridge plate. A couple minutes with a razor saw solved that. The rest of the installation was a snap. To drill the hole in the bridge I made a pilot hole with an electric drill and then used a quick change bit in a ratchet screw driver to enlarge the screw hole. No problems. If I did a couple of these I think I could get the installation time down to under 30 minutes.

I've adjusted it a couple of times and reduced the bow. Bonus, there is a bit more sustain. Because the neck angle is changed there is a bit of buzz that wasn't there before. I haven't gotten around to that yet.

All in all this is a good way to improve a guitar you care about but don't want to spend a huge amount on. This is much cheaper than getting the top flattened professionally. It improves the action and, in my case, changed the tone a bit for the better. Expect to need some set up after installation. You are changing the geometry of the guitar. One con. The piece of plastic described as MOP was dark grey in mine. I used a bit of silicone putty to anchor it in the hole.