Best Water Heaters in 2022

Last update: December 10, 2022

Are electric water heaters worth it?

If you're considering an electric water heater, there are a few things you should know. Electric water heaters are less expensive to purchase than gas water heaters, but they're also less efficient. Electric water heaters typically have a lower first-hour rating than gas water heaters, meaning that they can't heat as much water in an hour. Electric water heaters also have higher operating and energy costs.

Do I need 40 or 50 gallon water heater?

If you have a home with one to two bathrooms, you will likely need a 40-gallon water heater. A 50-gallon tank is better suited for a three- to four-bathroom home.

How do you know a water heater is going bad?

If your water heater is going bad, you may notice that your water isn't as hot as it used to be, or that it takes longer to heat up. You may also see rust on the outside of the tank, or leaks coming from the tank. If you think your water heater is going bad, it's important to have it checked out by a professional to see if it needs to be replaced.

How long do Rheem water heaters last?

Rheem water heaters last an average of 10 years before needing to be replaced. However, with proper maintenance, some Rheem water heaters have been known to last 20 years or more.


RV Water Heater Magnesium Anode Rod Kit - 9¼ Inch Long for Mor-Flo + Suburban 6, 10, 12 Gallon Tanks Review:


The anode was included in the maintenance I'm performing on our Pleasure Way Excel, which is simply the usual stuff that needs to be done when you get a new car.I've previously discovered anodes that had deteriorated all the way to the wire.It turns out that this one was just slightly corroded and must have been changed very recently. I nevertheless changed it.The Teflon tape roll that came with the rod amazed me. I always have some around, but I never manage to locate it before buying more. Possessing it in the bag was useful.



Eleventree 2 Pack RV Water Heaters Anode Rod, Extends the Life of Suburban and Mor-Flo Water Heaters Tank-3/4"NPT threads 9.25 length-Magnesium Anode Rod Review:


matched our Dometic RV hot water heater well. I want to strongly advise anyone who have hot water tanks to replace this once a year. If your water starts to have a silty appearance and your hot water starts to appear to be filled with tiny bubbles, then... It's because the rod you now have has fractured, and what you're seeing is fractured magnesium.Make sure to rinse out your tank when you pull the rod. Actually, Camco manufactures a respectable item that has a long wand, connects to a garden hose, and exerts good pressure.



Ecosmart ECO 18 Electric Tankless Water Heater, 18 KW at 240 Volts with Patented Self Modulating Technology Review:


There is a lack of information on this unit (and the entire product line), and many people have posted false information. Begin by RTFM. All of us would do well to visit EcoSmart's website before posting inaccurate information because it offers a wealth of information online.I have two of these units, one for domestic hot water and the other for our baseboard hot water heating system for the entire house. Some information is elusive, while other information must be kept secret and is not accessible online. I'll concentrate on these topics.The device has a 27 KW rating at 240 volts. Internally, it has three distinct 9KW heaters that work in series and order according to demand. Because of its true self-modulation, the device won't produce more heat than the load calls for.A dedicated 240 circuit, rated at 40 amps, and provided via #8 wire are needed for each individual heater. Each unit consumes 37.5 amps when fully loaded, adding up to a system load of 112.5 amps for fans of Ohm's law. Anyone who tries to use a 100 amp main breaker to power this appliance deserves to be punished. We can get away with it because everything else in the house is "green," and we can run everything else with the 37.5 amps available if the heater is running at full load. Ours is connected to our main 150 service.I'll say it again: Each internal unit needs a dedicated, independent 240-volt circuit with a 40-amp rating, for a total of three independent #8-wire 240-volt circuits. I hope I was clear enough.Three copper pipes, each about 1/2" in diameter, are cross-connected in series to form the heater's heat exchangers. There is therefore a flow restriction, though it is not as drastic as some of the reviews would have us believe. Some reviewers complained that their hot water was barely flowing. I've explored the entire interior of this unit. It's time to clean your pipes or replace your valves if your hot water only drips occasionally. Enough said about the fact that we have not been able to notice a loss of flow anywhere in our home.The maximum temperature is 140 degrees Fahrenheit. It's challenging to find that number, but if you do your research, you can. In DHW mode, 140 is the absolute upper limit. This is not a feature limitation of the appliance; rather, EcoSmart makes clear on all of their website pages that it is a safety limitation to reduce the possibility of someone scalding themselves.What's not documented is as follows:EcoSmart backs the heating of hot water and even offers plumbing diagrams. However, they won't explain how to obtain water that is 160 or 180 degrees. Internal jumpers in the heater allow you to set a wattage limit across the three heating elements, as well as a maximum output temperature limit of 105 degrees (useful for the elderly or in areas where young children are playing with the knob). The maximum output is 140 degrees, and the factory setting is 9KW per element. At the very top of the jumper strip is one marked "180". With power removed, place a jumper on these two pins and the unit will allow a setpoint of up to 180 degrees when power is restored.Most hot water heating systems operate best in the 160 degree area, and the older oil fired boilers actually used a setpoint of 200 degrees. Clearly, a heater with an upper limit of 140 degrees could cause poor performance of most baseboard hot water systems, and many of the newer hydronic systems. We replaced an antique oil fired boiler with the ECO27, and placed the setpoint at 160 to get started. The performance is nothing short of amazing, and I've actually dropped the setpoint to 150 until we get into the dead of winter. It is very nice to know that we have a reserve available.EcoSmart provides a wealth of information about the capability of this unit. I see over and over again that people can't (or won't) get their heads around a lot of what's commonly available. Simply, if you need 4 GPM, the best this unit can do is heat the water by 46 degrees. In other words, if you want a 110 degree shower (at a ridiculous 4 GPM), you must have incoming water of at least 64 degrees. If you live in an area where your water source is about 50 degrees, you will get 96 degree showers at 4 GPM. The obvious solution is to spend $20 and get a low-flow shower head. At 3 GPM this unit can give you a 110 degree shower with incoming water of only 49 degrees. At 2 GPM this unit will provide the full 140 degree setpoint with 50 degree incoming water.In boiler service, obtaining 160 degree water will require incoming water of at least 114 degrees. Most hot water heating systems operate with a differential of less than 20 degrees, so this unit is just loafing along while providing 160 degree water to your baseboard units. Also, most standard hot water heating systems have a design of either 1 GPM or 4 GPM. The temperature rise chart from EcoSmart demonstrates that a temperature rise of 184 degrees is possible at 1 GPM. Again, most hot water systems operate with a differential (or "Delta-T") of around 17 degrees, often less. The actual temperature setpoint isn't the focus as much as being able to maintain the differential is. So for a 180 degree output, we need to feed the heater with 163 degree water. At a mere 17 degree rise, this heater can easily flow well beyond 6 GPM, probably closer to 10 GPM, but we only need a max. of 4 GPM. So for boiler service, it is a perfect solution. It is small, silent and smart.If you're considering this unit for hot water baseboard or hydronic service, it is capable of 92,000 BTU/hr.It has been incorrectly represented that this is the largest electric tankless available. The largest commonly available electric tankless is 36KW. Just to set the record straight.Overall, I give this unit 5 stars. Price, reliability and technical support are right up there. The unit comes with a lifetime warranty when professionally installed. Cleaning and maintenance is accomplished with a Phillips screwdriver, no more pipe wrenches and fiberglass insulation to contend with. The unit is so small and lightweight that I actually carried it into the house under one arm, installed it and said nothing. Nobody knew that I'd done this until days later!The unit supports a remote thermostat which is very inexpensive and is waterproof. The little remote connects with telephone wire and is perfect for a location next to your sink or shower.We are a 3 adult household, using all of the "normal" things, doing laundry, taking showers, washing dishes, etc. I have been able to purposely cause the heater to fail to keep up, and that was by running the tub wide open. In any other situation, two showers at once, someone in the shower, someone else doing laundry, etc., I have yet to hear a single complaint. All I ever hear is how wonderful it is to have a long shower, or not have to wait 1/2 hour, etc. The days of my wife complaining about no hot water for the dishes because I took a long shower have ended!This is a true, self-modulating unit. People that have reported lights flickering and their TV having problems need to look at their house wiring. The unit starts softly, just like turning up a light dimmer. There are no flashing lights in this household. The only way I've ever been able to tell if the unit is running is to actually look at it - The display is only lighted when the unit is operating.Not to be overlooked is the energy savings. A tank heater will cycle 24/7, to maintain a tank full of hot water, even if you're on vacation. The tankless does absolutely nothing unless it detects water flow. Through an intelligent design EcoSmart units ignore faucet drips and won't send hot water to drippy faucets. The minimum flow to start the unit is 1/4 GPM.Hope this helps to quash some bad information and get accurate information posted.Dave.



Camplux 5L 1.32 GPM Outdoor Portable Propane Tankless Water Heater Review:


April 2019, and it's still going strong. To finally have everything how I like it, I switched out the battery pack for a 3.3V power supply, added a Linemaster air pressure foot switch (item B005GRE0J4), an Aubig pump (item B076PV2C2X), and a modified LDR shower head (item B000I1EA70). The heater and the water start when you step on the foot switch, which also cycles the power supply and the pump. I can fully shower using less than a gallon of water with the help of a better hose and a check valve (by cycling the pump only when I need water).EDIT: The seller gave me a $10 credit to spend on a garden hose adaptor, thus I raised my star rating from 4 to 5. You can apparently ask them to pay for the adaptor they mention below via email without having to express your displeasure.The tiny, inexpensive submersible shower pump turns on and off very quickly when the water flow starts and ends, and it generates enough pressure and heat for that flow rate to ignite the burner. If you want a shutoff valve on the handle, you'll need to replace the shower head and hose, which are quite cheap. Instead of turning off the water, I turn my pump on and off using a pull-chain switch.All of the links are unusual for North America! Water coming in, coming out, and LP gas all require washers and will leak continuously without them. An elbow cannot be placed on the 1/2 "since it employs British straight threads as opposed to the tapered NPT/MIP standard for the gas connection. Install their 3/8" elbow if you require one, as I did "Find a flare/flare elbow after finding a flare adapter (Camco makes one, sold on amazon for ten bucks). You must use their adapter and then purchase another adapter for the water supply because the water connectors do not taper and have slightly different sizes. The water output may function properly with different shower head hoses, but it won't fit any fittings available at big-box retailers. If someone can direct me to an adapter that fits properly, I'll modify this review. Even after I pressed the seller, they were clear that their "garden hose adaptor" would not work with an American-style garden hose. Here is their response, which I deducted one point for:The unit has a 1/2 BSP thread.Our water input connector has a 1/2 BSP female x 3/4 NPT female thread, while our garden hose has a 1/2 BSP female x 3/4 NPT male thread.If you didn't utilize our connector, you would need to purchase a 1/2 BSP female x 3/4 GHT male/female connector for this unit.You would need to purchase a 3/4 NPT male x 3/4 GHT male/female connector if you used our connector.Both the NPT and GHT are American standards. We offer NPT standards to our American clients.



EcoSmart ECO 27 Electric Tankless Water Heater, 27 KW at 240 Volts, 112.5 Amps with Patented Self Modulating Technology Review:


There is a lack of information on this item (and the entire product series), and many people have uploaded false information. Begin by RTFM. All of us would do well to visit EcoSmart's website before providing inaccurate information because it offers a plethora of information online.I have two of these units, one for domestic hot water and the other for our baseboard hot water heating system for the entire house. Some information is elusive, while other information must be kept hidden and is not accessible online. I'll concentrate on these topics.The device has a 27 KW rating at 240 volts. Internally, it has three distinct 9KW heaters that work in series and order according to demand. Because of its true self-modulation, the device won't produce more heat than the load calls for.A separate 240 circuit, rated at 40 amps, and provided through #8 wire are needed for each individual heater. Each device consumes 37.5 amps when fully loaded, adding up to a system load of 112.5 amps for fans of Ohm's law. Anyone who tries to use a 100 amp main breaker to power this appliance needs to be punished. We can get away with it since everything else in the home is "green," and we can power everything else with the 37.5 amps available if the heater is running at full load. Ours is connected to our main 150 line.I'll repeat it again: Each internal unit needs a dedicated, independent 240-volt circuit with a 40-amp rating, for a total of three independent #8-wire 240-volt circuits. I hope I was clear enough.Three copper pipes, each about 1/2" in diameter, are cross-connected in series to form the heater's heat exchangers. There is therefore a flow restriction, however it is not as drastic as some of the reviews would have us assume. Some reviewers complained that their hot water was barely flowing. I've explored the whole interior of this unit. It's time to clean your pipes or replace your valves if your hot water only drips occasionally. Enough said regarding the fact that we have not been able to notice a lack of flow anyplace in our home.The maximum temperature is 140 degrees Fahrenheit. It's challenging to find that amount, but if you do your research, you can. In DHW mode, 140 is the absolute upper limit. This is not a feature limitation of the appliance; rather, EcoSmart makes clear on all of their website pages that it is a safety constraint to reduce the possibility of someone scorching themselves.What's not documented is as follows:EcoSmart backs the heating of hot water and even offers plumbing diagrams. However, they won't explain how to obtain water that is 160 or 180 degrees. Internal jumpers in the heater allow you to establish a wattage restriction across the three heating components, as well as a maximum output temperature limit of 105 degrees (useful for the elderly or in areas where young children are messing with the knob). The maximum output is 140 degrees, and the factory preset is 9KW per element. There is one marked "180" at the very top of the jumper strip. When the power is turned back on after placing a jumper on these two pins, the device will permit a setpoint of up to 180 degrees.The majority of hot water heating systems function best at 160 degrees, while older oil-fired boilers actually had a 200-degree setpoint. It is obvious that most baseboard hot water systems and many of the more recent hydronic systems could work poorly with a heater that has a maximum temperature of 140 degrees. The ECO27 was used to replace an old oil-fired boiler, and the setpoint was initially set at 160. As a result of the performance, which is nothing short of remarkable, I've actually lowered the setpoint until the onset of winter to 150. Knowing that we have a reserve on hand is quite pleasant.A multitude of details regarding this device's capabilities are available on EcoSmart. I frequently observe that people struggle with understanding much of what is readily available or simply refuse to do so. Simply said, this machine can only heat the water by 46 degrees if you need 4 GPM. In other words, you need incoming water that is at least 64 degrees if you want a 110 degree shower (at a preposterous 4 GPM). You may obtain 96 degree showers at 4 GPM if your water supply is at 50 degrees where you reside. The simple fix is to invest $20 in a low-flow shower head. With incoming water only being 49 degrees and a 3 GPM output, this device can shower you at 110 degrees. This unit will supply the entire 140 degree setpoint at 2 GPM with incoming water at a 50 degree angle.For boiler use, incoming water must be at least 114 degrees in order to achieve 160 degrees. This unit is lazily supplying your baseboard units with water that is 160 degrees because the majority of hot water heating systems run with a differential of less than 20 degrees. Additionally, the majority of conventional hot water heating systems are either 1 GPM or 4 GPM in design. According to the EcoSmart temperature rise table, 1 GPM can result in a temperature spike of 184 degrees. Once more, the majority of hot water systems run at a differential (or "Delta-T") of about 17 degrees, and frequently even lower. The ability to sustain the disparity is more important than the exact temperature setpoint. In order to get a 180 degree output, 163 degree water must be fed into the heater. This heater can easily flow well over 6 GPM, possibly closer to 10 GPM, but we just require a maximum of 4 GPM at a measly 17 degree increase. Therefore, it is the ideal solution for boiler service. It is little, quiet, and intelligent.This device can provide 92,000 BTU/hr of hot water baseboard or hydronic service, if that is what you're looking for.The claim that this is the largest electric tankless on the market is untrue. The largest electric tankless currently on the market is 36KW. Just to be clear about it.I give this unit a total of 5 stars. Pricing, dependability, and technical assistance rank highly. When installed by a qualified technician, the item has a lifetime warranty.



EcoSmart ECO 11 Electric Tankless Water Heater, 13KW at 240 Volts with Patented Self Modulating Technology Review:


There is a lack of information on this item (and the entire product series), and many people have uploaded false information. Begin by RTFM. All of us would do well to visit EcoSmart's website before providing inaccurate information because it offers a plethora of information online.I have two of these units, one for domestic hot water and the other for our baseboard hot water heating system for the entire house. Some information is elusive, while other information must be kept hidden and is not accessible online. I'll concentrate on these topics.The device has a 27 KW rating at 240 volts. Internally, it has three distinct 9KW heaters that work in series and order according to demand. Because of its true self-modulation, the device won't produce more heat than the load calls for.A separate 240 circuit, rated at 40 amps, and provided through #8 wire are needed for each individual heater. Each device consumes 37.5 amps when fully loaded, adding up to a system load of 112.5 amps for fans of Ohm's law. Anyone who tries to use a 100 amp main breaker to power this appliance needs to be punished. We can get away with it since everything else in the home is "green," and we can power everything else with the 37.5 amps available if the heater is running at full load. Ours is connected to our main 150 line.I'll repeat it again: Each internal unit needs a dedicated, independent 240-volt circuit with a 40-amp rating, for a total of three independent #8-wire 240-volt circuits. I hope I was clear enough.Three copper pipes, each about 1/2" in diameter, are cross-connected in series to form the heater's heat exchangers. There is therefore a flow restriction, however it is not as drastic as some of the reviews would have us assume. Some reviewers complained that their hot water was barely flowing. I've explored the whole interior of this unit. It's time to clean your pipes or replace your valves if your hot water only drips occasionally. Enough said regarding the fact that we have not been able to notice a lack of flow anyplace in our home.The maximum temperature is 140 degrees Fahrenheit. It's challenging to find that amount, but if you do your research, you can. In DHW mode, 140 is the absolute upper limit. This is not a feature limitation of the appliance; rather, EcoSmart makes clear on all of their website pages that it is a safety constraint to reduce the possibility of someone scorching themselves.What's not documented is as follows:EcoSmart backs the heating of hot water and even offers plumbing diagrams. However, they won't explain how to obtain water that is 160 or 180 degrees. Internal jumpers in the heater allow you to establish a wattage restriction across the three heating components, as well as a maximum output temperature limit of 105 degrees (useful for the elderly or in areas where young children are messing with the knob). The maximum output is 140 degrees, and the factory preset is 9KW per element. There is one marked "180" at the very top of the jumper strip. When the power is turned back on after placing a jumper on these two pins, the device will permit a setpoint of up to 180 degrees.The majority of hot water heating systems function best at 160 degrees, while older oil-fired boilers actually had a 200-degree setpoint. It is obvious that most baseboard hot water systems and many of the more recent hydronic systems could work poorly with a heater that has a maximum temperature of 140 degrees. The ECO27 was used to replace an old oil-fired boiler, and the setpoint was initially set at 160. As a result of the performance, which is nothing short of remarkable, I've actually lowered the setpoint until the onset of winter to 150. Knowing that we have a reserve on hand is quite pleasant.A multitude of details regarding this device's capabilities are available on EcoSmart. I frequently observe that people struggle with understanding much of what is readily available or simply refuse to do so. Simply said, this machine can only heat the water by 46 degrees if you need 4 GPM. In other words, you need incoming water that is at least 64 degrees if you want a 110 degree shower (at a preposterous 4 GPM). You may obtain 96 degree showers at 4 GPM if your water supply is at 50 degrees where you reside. The simple fix is to invest $20 in a low-flow shower head. With incoming water only being 49 degrees and a 3 GPM output, this device can shower you at 110 degrees. This unit will supply the entire 140 degree setpoint at 2 GPM with incoming water at a 50 degree angle.For boiler use, incoming water must be at least 114 degrees in order to achieve 160 degrees. This unit is lazily supplying your baseboard units with water that is 160 degrees because the majority of hot water heating systems run with a differential of less than 20 degrees. Additionally, the majority of conventional hot water heating systems are either 1 GPM or 4 GPM in design. According to the EcoSmart temperature rise table, 1 GPM can result in a temperature spike of 184 degrees. Once more, the majority of hot water systems run at a differential (or "Delta-T") of about 17 degrees, and frequently even lower. The ability to sustain the disparity is more important than the exact temperature setpoint. In order to get a 180 degree output, 163 degree water must be fed into the heater. This heater can easily flow well over 6 GPM, possibly closer to 10 GPM, but we just require a maximum of 4 GPM at a measly 17 degree increase. Therefore, it is the ideal solution for boiler service. It is little, quiet, and intelligent.This device can provide 92,000 BTU/hr of hot water baseboard or hydronic service, if that is what you're looking for.The claim that this is the largest electric tankless on the market is untrue. The largest electric tankless currently on the market is 36KW. Just to be clear about it.I give this unit a total of 5 stars. Pricing, dependability, and technical assistance rank highly. When installed by a qualified technician, the item has a lifetime warranty. With the help of a Phillips screwdriver, cleaning and maintenance may be carried out; fiberglass insulation and pipe wrenches are no longer necessary. I actually carried the unit inside the home under one arm, installed it, and kept quiet because it is so little and light. It took days before anyone found out that I had done this!The device is compatible with a waterproof, remote thermostat that is very affordable. The little remote can be placed right next to your sink or shower because it connects with telephone wire.We have three adults living with us, and we utilize all the "usual" amenities like doing laundry, taking showers, washing dishes, etc. By running the tub quite open, I was able to deliberately make the heater unable to keep up. I haven't heard a single complaint in any other circumstance, including when there were two people taking showers at once, someone else was washing laundry, etc. I always hear people gushing about how great it is to take a long shower, not have to wait for anything, etc. My wife no longer whines that there isn't hot water for the dishes because I had a long shower.This device truly self-modulates. People who have complained about their TV acting up and lights flickering should get their home wiring checked. The device turns on quietly, much like turning down a light. In this house, there are no lights that flash. The display is only illuminated while the device is in use, thus the only way I've ever been able to determine if it's running is to actually look at it.The ability to save energy should not be disregarded. Even while you are away, a tank heater will run continuously to keep the water in the tank hot. Without detecting water flow, the tankless does nothing at all. EcoSmart units have a sophisticated design that prevents them from sending hot water to leaky faucets and ignores faucet drips. The unit requires a minimum flow of 1/4 GPM to operate.Hopefully, this will dispel some false information and enable the posting of accurate facts.Dave.



Camplux ME25 Mini Tank Electric Water Heater 2.5-Gallon,1.5kW at 120 Volts Review:


Our home has a crawl space, so I put the Camplux under the bathroom in the master bedroom, right next to our main water heater. (The main water heater's delivery of hot water to our sinks and showers is excessively slow.) It now functions perfectly, instantly and reliably supplying hot water to our sinks and shower.But for these two reasons, I gave this product a 4-star rating:1. The length of the electrical cord is not mentioned anywhere. I erected an electrical receptacle where I intended to put the water heater because I wanted to be prepared to install it as soon as it came. When you look at various brands, the length of the cable might range from three to six feet. This one should be at least three feet tall, I thought. Fortunately, the two-foot cord barely managed to reach the outlet. I probably would have waited to mount the electrical outlet on the floor joist above it until I had the heater installed if I had known it was only two feet long. (Yes, changing the two-foot cord for a longer cord is possible using the installation manual's clear instructions. It would have been a small annoyance if I had to do it.) It would have been wonderful if they had stated something along the lines of Plug-In Style, Easy to Use in the product description. Simply insert the two-foot cord into a 120v electrical supply socket to complete the installation.2. Do-It-Yourselfers are not eligible for a warranty! A qualified, licensed technician must always install the water heater and do all future service work and any maintenance, according to the installation manual, which also states that "The installation must be completed by a licensed professional." The manufacturer shall not be liable under this guarantee if:... f) The water heater is installed by unqualified personnel, according to the warranty section. Do-It-Yourselfers are being told, "Don't expect a warranty; we don't trust you!" The installation of the water heater is not difficult, and the staff at stores like Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc. are always quite helpful in suggesting the specific parts and tools a customer needs to install the heater effectively for their scenario.



ECOTOUCH Electric Tankless Water Heater Point-of-Use Hot Water Heater Digital Display for Energy Efficiency 5.5kW at 240V, White Review:


Perfect for what I need. The kitchen sink was on the other side of a big home from where I needed the rest of my hot water. I stopped using the old hot water line, and with a little work, the water now heats up quickly! It was a bit of a project to put up 220v power using 12 gauge wire and a 30 amp double pole breaker, but once everything is in place, you at least know it will work. In my kitchen sink, this can most surely reach the desired temperature at 1.5 gallons per minute. I would assume that the complainers in this case either lacked sufficient electricity or required the installation of a 1.5 gpm aerator. (Separate purchase) Brass pipe fittings are needed: To connect your cold kitchen line to the intake, you will need a 1/2 in hex nipple and 1/2 in coupling since the intake has a grate in it that prevents the hose from sealing up in it. See images.



Bosch Electric Tankless Water Heater - Eliminate Time for Hot Water - Easy Installation Review:


****** To update the information below: The internal high-temperature switch on the device has started to open at random after several months of trouble-free operation. If I reset it, everything is OK. possibly once a week or less. I got in touch with Bosch, and everything looks good. But occasionally, it still trips. Consider looking at the flow valve switch, a weak spot in any of these kinds of devices. frustrating. *****It is compact and well-packaged to deliver hot water to a far-off sink. I connected it to the connection going to my dishwasher and kitchen sink.In the utility area, directly beneath my sink, were all the plumbing lines. You require electrical power, just like in any electric tankless. You must take into account your power line. I had an empty 240 circuit with 8 AWG wire from an unused electric range socket (we have a gas range), and it was just by my install spot. A cold supply line is required for this unit.Positives: (1) I am achieving a 60F increase at 1 gpm, which is sufficient. It looks nice and is peaceful. Installing is not that difficult if you are handy. I seized the chance to replace some copper lines that were 40 years old, which worked smoothly but required a lot of time. DON'T FORGET to add a water filter to the unit's cold supply line (years experience with tankless). Utilizing steel corrugated line designed exclusively for tankless heaters, I made the final connection.For those who are unfamiliar with heat transfer, 9.5 kW ought to be adequate for one sink (60F rise at 1 gpm). Try not to use it as a shower, unless a 1-gpm shower is acceptable. If you can attain 1.5 gpm, the rise is only 45F. The trade-off in tankless is between flow rate and temperature rise.Cons: (1) It takes 0.75 gpm to turn the US9 on. That stream is good. That works for my kitchen sink. But if it were in a bathroom, where I occasionally desire just a trickle, I would have a problem with that. Others on the market have activation gpm that are less. (2) There is a significant pressure drop over it. With 55 psi at the supply, I can only take in a maximum of 1.1 gpm. My Kohler faucet, which had a 1.5 gpm flowrate prior to installation, is undoubtedly at fault. (3) 1/2 inch fittings are used. For some, this might be advantageous, but not for my installation. (3) The appliance lacks a thermostat. You will always experience the same temperature rise, allowing you to enjoy some very hot water! Watch out for burning! Better appliances feature a temperature limitation, such 120F or 140F (ouch). Due to this, you shouldn't add a booster to a hot water line.None of the drawbacks exclude me. Your submission might change. How long is it going to last now?



Mini Instant Water Heater Electric Under Sink - 3kW at 110v 120v Tankless Hot Water Heater for Hand/Face/Dishes Washing Kitchen Bathroom(Designed for Low Water Flow Use Only)(Black) Review:


Works well and is simple to install. Fantastic if you require hot water someplace where a conventional water heater is not available. Other point-of-use water heaters typically need wiring a 220v supply, but this one uses a conventional 110v power source, allowing you to plug it into a regular outlet.In order to be able to turn off the electricity when not in use, I'd advise plugging it into a power strip or an outlet with an on/off switch. Although it features an automatic on/off water flow sensor, it is safer to turn off the electricity when not in use.It can't heat up large amounts of water or to a high temperature because it uses less electricity than a conventional water heater, but that's the price you pay for convenience: less power. You'll be content as long as you're realistic about its results. I put it to use as an utilitarian sink in my garage to avoid running a hot water connection there. I'm going to run another one to my outside washing machine.In conclusion, the optimum application for this device is to provide hot water where a conventional water heater is not practical or available. such as a small cabin, a utility sink in the garage, etc. You'll be content as long as you're honest about how much heat or water it can produce.


How many years does a water heater last?

Most water heaters last between 10 and 15 years. Some models have a longer lifespan, but this is typically due to higher-quality materials and better manufacturing. Older water heaters may only last 5 to 10 years.

How many years does an electric hot water heater last?

The average lifespan of an electric hot water heater is about 10-15 years. However, this can vary depending on a number of factors, such as the quality of the unit, the amount of maintenance it receives, and the water quality in your home. If you have a high-quality unit that is properly maintained, you may be able to extend its lifespan to 20 years or more.

How much does it cost to replace a 40 gallon water heater?

The cost to replace a 40 gallon water heater will vary depending on the type of heater, the brand, the size, and other factors. However, the average cost for a new 40 gallon water heater is between $500 and $1,000.

How often should you replace water heater?

How often should you replace water heater? Most water heaters have a lifespan of about 8 to 12 years. However, there are a number of factors that can affect how long your water heater will last. These include the type and quality of the unit, the amount of maintenance it receives, the hardness of the water, and the climate. If you live in an area with hard water, your water heater may not last as long as it would in a softer water area. Similarly, if you live in a hot climate, your water heater may not last as long as it would

Is Bradford White better than Rheem?

There is a lot of debate over which brand is better when it comes to Bradford White and Rheem. Bradford White is a more popular choice among homeowners and contractors, while Rheem is favored by some because of its reputation for being more reliable. Both brands offer a variety of models to choose from, so it really comes down to personal preference.

Should I replace my 20 year old water heater?

If your water heater is over 20 years old, it may be time to replace it. Newer water heaters are more energy-efficient, which can save you money on your utility bills. They also have safety features that can prevent fires and explosions.