Best Wall Safes in 2022

Last update: December 16, 2022

Are wall safes worth it?

A wall safe is a hidden and secure way to store valuables in your home. Wall safes are usually installed between studs in an interior wall and can be concealed behind a picture or piece of furniture. They come in a variety of sizes and can be fitted with a number of different locking mechanisms. Wall safes offer a high degree of security for your valuables. They are difficult to spot and even more difficult to break into. A well-installed wall safe can provide peace of mind knowing that your valuables are well-protected. However,

Can you put a safe in a wall?

Yes, you can put a safe in a wall. Wall safes provide extra security because they are difficult to access and are hidden from view. When choosing a wall safe, make sure to select one that is the appropriate size for your needs and that has a good fire rating.

Do all safes have moisture problems?

Most safes don't have moisture problems, but it's something to consider if you're storing valuable items in a safe. If you're worried about moisture, you can get a dehumidifier for your safe.

How deep is a wall safe?

Wall safes can be installed in many different ways, depending on the type of wall and the security needs of the home or business owner. The depth of the safe is one important factor to consider when installing a wall safe. Most wall safes are recessed into the wall, which means they need to be installed in a studded wall. The depth of the studs will determine how deep the safe can be installed. For example, if the studs in the wall are only four inches deep, the safe can only be installed four inches into the wall. If the stud

Key Lock Box Wall Mount - TOWOKE Waterproof Combination Key Safe Box for Outside, Zinc Alloy Key Storage Box with Resettable Code for House Spare Keys, 5 Key Capacity - Mounting Kit Included Review:

The peace of mind this has given me is beyond words!I am recovering from a hip replacement and severe dislocation in an area where I know no one while my spouse is overseas.Now that my nurses, housing, and EMS have codes to access it, I have a secure key!I've always had to leave my doors unlocked in case someone needs to get in during an emergency.Now that I know someone (WHO IS SUPPOSED TO) can enter if I need them but no one else can, I can sleep easier!It is currently parked below the bench on our front lanai because I am unable to get it installed because we live in base housing. I'm not worried about somebody stealing it because they wouldn't be able to get inside because it is solid enough!This has already given me a great deal of comfort. It has also relieved my nurses and the housing office, and I will know when my husband receives the email.In difficult circumstances, sometimes the "small things" mean the most!To ensure that we may utilize the installation equipment wherever we are stationed, I'm keeping the key inside.When the kids and grandkids come to visit, the dog sitter when we are away, or even a maintenance or repair contractor, we can still use this after I've recovered. We can make the combination ephemeral for a single use because it can be changed so easily.

Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2 Review:

My wife said, "Thank you, thank you!" after pushing it for the first time. Naturally, "why did you wait so long to replace the previous one if this was so easy to do?" was asked after that. Because, um, I awaited a price reduction? or "I just hadn't found the time on my Honey-do list because it appeared like it was going to be a lot harder to do." Anyway, now that it has been installed and completed, my wife appreciates it every time she uses it as opposed to complaining about the previous button each time it failed to function properly. which was fairly frequently.Anyway, let's move on to the "Wall Console," also known as the button. The previous one was put in when the house was constructed in 1996 and has been stuck for a while. Sometimes it would double-click, requiring two pushes to activate it. The door opened once, halted, and was then closed before opening again. and hoped it wouldn't double-click once more (which it did on more than one occasion). The outdated button would also do the clever trick of becoming trapped in the depressed position, rendering the entire system unworkable. Quite obnoxious, all of it. If you're wondering why I've been so slow to replace it: My car is in the driveway, my wife's is in the garage, and I enter through the front door.The new button is quite effective. There is no need to worry about accidentally turning on the opener light because it is much larger than the old button and stands alone (or vice versa). Additionally, the light inside is quite bright. The red light would be obvious even if you didn't notice the large black box hanging on the wall by itself.(And if you're wondering from the photo, the green painters tape on the grab bar was there to add some contrast in a field of white for the person using it, who has a limited field of vision due to glaucoma.)On to the installation now.(I'm going to start off assuming that this button is a replacement and not a brand-new installation. A two-conductor wire connecting the button to the garage door opener would also be required for that.It is quite simple to install this button as a direct replacement. at the very least if your garage ceiling is low. Since mine is just over 10 feet tall, I had to remove the ladder from behind a collection of clutter in order to access the plug and unplug the garage door opener (step number 1 in replacing the button). Why didn't I simply switch the breaker off? The reason being that the guy who designed my house connected the garage lights into the same outlet as the opener. And since I was working at night, I didn't open the garage door. Likewise in the late fall. Additionally, the garage faces northwest, allowing all of the brisk wind to enter.Step 1 of the installation is to unplug your garage door opener after you have unpacked the package the button arrived in and have all the equipment listed in the box (if you are replacing an old Genie button, you may only need a #2 Philips screwdriver). This will put that squirrel to bed (or flip the circuit breaker). Next, unscrew the previous button. Two wires should exit the wall and enter the rear of the existing button. Don't cut them off just yet. Check the screw holes on the new button to make sure they are aligned. You can skip the following few paragraphs if they match up.Tools required for this step(s) include a pencil or thin-bodied pen, a Philips screwdriver, a tape measure at least five feet long, a power drill with several bits smaller than one-fourth of an inch, and a small hammer (or very big thumb). A stud-detector would be an optional piece of gear.There are instructions in the box if you need to drill new holes for the new button, but you will also need a small drill (I can't recall the exact size, but it is less than 1/4"). Once you've decided where you want the button to go on the wall next to the door, mark the spots for the screws by sticking your pencil or pen through the screw holes on the new button's front and drawing a circle around the hole. (And according to many building requirements, they should preferably be 50" above the ground or a step to prevent young children from hurting themselves while playing with the garage door.) Using a stud-detector is necessary for the optional step of looking for a stud in order to avoid using the plastic anchors, which is described in the paragraph that follows. To ensure I'm not over a stud, I always begin by drilling a tiny pilot hole with a 3/32" drill bit. To do it, the drill bit needs to protrude outward from the drill at least 1" in order to cut through the drywall. In contrast to wood, drywall should be relatively easy for your drill to cut through. The drill bit's end should also be checked for wood. The third test entails not using the drill's full depth. Push the drill bit back into the hole once you've finished drilling and turned off the machine. You won't be able to push past a stud once you are over him. There won't be any resistance if there isn't a stud behind the wall. You would have problems utilizing either type of fastener if you had drilled a 1/4" hole and went too far into a stud (screwing directly into the stud, or the plastic inserts). Depending on whether you are drilling into a stud or just drywall, you can either continue (stud) or pull out a larger drill bit (drywall) and enlarge the holes. Now is the time to use the little hammer or giant thumb after you've completed that. The plastic inserts must be pushed or softly tapped into the holes until they are flush with the drywall. To be sure the screws will hold, I like to test them out immediately, but only partially, into the studs or into the inserts after they have been installed in the wall. You might want a little larger pilot hole if you have trouble screwing into the stud. The moment to find out is right now, not when the wall button is only partially attached. If the inserts spin as you are just starting the screw, you could need a fasterener of a larger size or a different kind (unfortunately, drywall comes in different thicknesses and grades, and also gets more brittle with age, so what works in a 20 year old house may not work in a 50 year old house. )Most doors will have two studs against either side of the door, which may or may not be touching, to aid in locating studs close to doorways. The location of the light switches next to the entrance will often indicate where the outermost stud is because they are (often) attached to that stud. The next stud may be 16.5" center to center, or its inner and outside edges will be 14.5" and 16.5" from the switch plate's door side edge, respectively. The reason I say "may" is because doors often don't fit in 16" centers, unlike (most) wall studs, therefore the space on each side of the door is probably smaller. The light switch in the door's example is on the inside of a stud, and the button is above the following stud (albeit it is offset to one side to cover the hole where the wire enters the drywall, making the center-to-center distance about 6" instead of 16?). These match the two screws on the previous button.

ORIA Key Lock Box, 4 Digit Combination Key Storage Lock Box, Wall Mounted Key Safe Box, 5 Keys Capacity Weatherproof for Indoor Outdoor, 3.66 inch Review:

This is a fantastic item! mounts with the supplied screws. holds five keys maximum. The four-digit entry code may be set up easily and is waterproof. This lock box is just what I needed to put outside so Hospice could get to my residence. The seller and the product come highly recommended. A terrific bargain and prompt delivery!

Digital Electronic Safe Security Box Fireproof Wall-Anchoring Safe Deposit Box for Money Jewelry Cash Batteries - US Stock (Black) Review:

Purchase it right away. I looked into and contrasted a wide range of safes and choices. Because of my previous success with Amazon and the great pricing, I chose this. This was installed yesterday, and I must tell that I am really happy with it. When I needed it, I needed something with easy access. I had underestimated the size of this safe. It is fastened inside a sizable solid wood wardrobe with bolts. This is generally true of all safes. You can compare prices wherever you like. Nothing even somewhat comparable will be available for this price. I might buy a couple more of them to place in different places about the house because they are so inexpensive. Children and visitors have no chance. I went to Home Depot to get some heavy-duty bolts, bored holes in the solid-wood shelf and wardrobe backing, and then secured everything securely. Essentially, it now belongs in the wardrobe. The way I have it set up, a burglar would have to first wreck the wardrobe before attempting to break into the safe. This purchase, like almost all of my thoughtful ones, is a good one.

7700 Flat Electronic Wall Safe .83 CF for Large Jewelry Security-Paragon Lock & Safe Review:

well-built, safe, and reliable (after tweaking) It's a 5/5 for $75, it looks excellent. Some problems make it less impressive.1. (This issue is a reflection on my house not the safe) (This issue is a reflection on my house not the safe) American stud spacing measures 16" on center, translating to 14.5" between studs with a nominal (1.5") diameter of 2". This safe is described as being 14.25" broad, which is acceptable, but I measured it and found that it is actually 14" wide, which is even better! However, it did not fit, so I had to work within the boundaries of the square that I had previously cut for the safe, which took more than an hour to do. It was unpleasant, but I had to do it. Others experienced similar issues and attributed the broad safe to their troubles. It might possibly be a quarter of an inch thinner, but typically it should be okay.2. The setting for combinations. For setting the combo, it comes with two (different) directions. There are a total of three separate instructions because one set incorporates glued-on fixes. One set makes reference to setting two distinct combos, but it doesn't specify how, and figuring it out through trial and error is not an option. Before someone contacted the manufacturer and received the correct response, 3 days of back and forth with the vendor resulted in a lot of incorrect advice. This is it: After setting the first combo, press "0" twice, followed by the red reset button, the second combo, "c" or "e," depending on which one hasn't been used yet. Worked!3. Adjusting the doors. The instructions don't make any mention of this. My door dragged on the bottom frame and was nearly impossible to open; I had to pull firmly on the handle to get it to budge. However, it wasn't operating at all because the handle is recessed, tiny, and can only be grasped with the tips of your fingers. The door may now be readily opened by the integrated spring after being adjusted upward because the hinge pins, which are actually allen-headed bolts, are no longer dragging. Dispute settled!4. Paint: Mine was beautifully and uniformly painted. Where the door was dragging, there was a small chip. So what if someone made a big deal out of this? It's not a Lexus worth $55,000. Additionally, even that is vulnerable to common parking lot dings, etc. Yikes!

Safe and Lock Box - Safe Box, Safes And Lock Boxes, Money Box, Safety Boxes for Home, Digital Safe Box, Steel Alloy Drop Safe, Includes Keys- SereneLife SLSFE14 Review:

First things first: it's obvious that this isn't a safe with strong security. You'll have to pay a lot more money if that's what you want. This safe is best used to keep items like weapons away from small children and similar things.I'm using it as a fire containment box made of metal for my LiPo drone batteries. They don't usually catch fire, but it can happen. Any flames that might start should be put out by this steel box. The mounting holes will stop the box from pressurizing and turning into a bomb in the case of a fire.Everything is operating as it was intended to and setup was simple. You'll be content as long as your demands are in line with the product's design.

DuraBox D700 Through the Wall Drop Box w/ Adjustable Chute Deposit Safe Mail Box Review:

Excellent; we were able to modify it to meet our needs. It works nicely for us as a drop box for payments. Rainwater entering our home has never been a problem. The slot you place the envelopes in is too little for your hand to fit down into, therefore it is, in my opinion, quite safe. I don't see how somebody could pull anything out of it if they were of a mind to. People drop off cash and feel very safe using this box.

7750 Electronic Wall Safe Hidden Large Safes Jewelry Secure-Paragon Lock & Safe Review:

I installed this safe within two hours of receiving it (and not working very hard on it). Although the lock mechanism takes up a sizable chunk of the middle area of shelf, I assume that's what you want when you get a wall safe. It is intended to be concealed behind a sizable picture.see Images:1. Identify the locations of two studs using a stud finder. There won't be any precision in the horizontal places, but don't worry about it. Simply draw a line where you want the safe's top and bottom inner lips to be (ie 2 horizontal lines - one on top and one on bottom). Draw your box starting from the top or bottom lines on the wall after using a sheetrock saw to identify the studs. Next, saw straight down until you reach one of the horizontal lines against your studs.2. Take out any possible insulation from the wall, and make sure your cut lines are straight.3. Insert the safe into the hole that you just made, then mark with a pencil where the studs will go through the screw holes on the safe's side. Make the holes you just designated with a drill. Use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the shank of the wood screws that are provided. The screw will be much simpler to install as a result.4. Reinstall the safe in the opening, then tighten the wood screws with a ratchet.A view of the installed safe is shown in photo 5. Take note of the door's battery compartment. The batteries originally didn't stay in place very well, but I haven't had any issues since. When unlocked, the spring-loaded doors will pop open.The combo reset button is shown in Photo 6; use it in accordance with the directions. I didn't properly follow the directions, so I tried setting the combo a few times, and it appeared that the safe had accepted it. I tried to open it multiple times but it wouldn't work. I was about to send this item back until I finally gave up and read the directions in their entirety. It is necessary to press the red button.Here is the rating. Although I absolutely admire the safe, I think it has a dangerous issue. If the batteries run out, you may use the included barrel-shaped key (?) to open the safe. I appreciate that it's one of those round keys because it should be less prone to lock picking attempts. The key lock is concealed below the combination key pad and is held in place by a Philips head screw, which is the problem. The batteries can be dead and I might be scrambling to locate a screwdriver when I REALLY need to get into this safe ASAP. I could store one close to the safe, but why would I need to?

7725 Flat Electronic Wall Safe For Jewelry Security - Paragon Lock & Safe Review:

After making some tweaks, I'm extremely pleased with this, my second wall safe.Although this one is less expensive than the Stack-On PWS 15522, it might be a little more sturdy. Instead of 4, it uses 6 bolts to secure the studs. The Stack-On, however, allowed me to disable the button beeping without changing anything. The Stack-On also had stronger shelves, in my opinion.Regarding the Paragon 7725, the first thing to notice is that I tested the key after unboxing the safe with the safe door facing up and the safe flat on my table. Before being flipped upright, the key was inoperable. Given that I had seen a review about the key not working, I almost believed I had a problem.The installation went as planned. It readily slipped between the studs, which were only somewhat broader than the recommended width. In order to facilitate installation, I placed a piece of 2x4 at the bottom. I fasten to the studs on either side with a Kreg Mini Jig Pocket Hole Kit.I added a piece of 1/4" weather stripping to the inside of the door jamb, lengthwise, because I found the door's slight play inconvenient when tapping the keypad if I didn't hold the door closed. (See photo below)The buzzer is too loud for my purposes, as many people have remarked. I refrained from soldering the circuit board with a soldering iron. Instead, I carefully pry off the speaker cover with a little screwdriver after removing the cover to the circuit board (photo attached). A tiny bit of metal under the cap intensified the beep. Pushing the buttons on the keypad produced a very faint, scarcely audible beep with that gone. This was ideal for me, but I was aware that I was taking a risk by doing so. If you try it, please do so at your own risk.Overall, excellent tool for concealing a few small objects while protecting them.

Digital Security Safe Box, Safety Boxes Safes and Lock Boxes for Home Office Hotel Jewelry Gun Cash Storage with Electronic Lock Review:

This tiny safe is attractive and simple to set up. In less than 5 minutes, I had it configured with an 8-digit passkey. Four Big Mac boxes could definitely fit inside:-) The passport and several of my car and house titles fit nicely despite its small size.It had some plastic and some metal components. Although it might be fireproof for a while, you shouldn't count on any vital items to survive a fire in perfect shape.I will state that this is a nice safe; it should be able to keep priceless items safe from your children and visitors. However, because it is so light and compact, a burglar or other anyone with malicious intentions can just take the entire safe and break it open later. Therefore, keep your bank secure with everything else that is crucial to you, including cash and diamonds.Everything has a purpose, thus it is not a secure place for you to keep valuables. However, it does provide me with a location where I can keep my valuables so they are not temped by my children or lost by myself. Additionally, I adore pressing those number buttons every night like a banker.

How do you hide a wall safe?

If you're looking to hide a wall safe, there are a few things you can do. You can camouflague it with a painting or picture frame, or build it into a false wall. You can also hide it behind a bookshelf or in a closet. Whatever you do, just make sure the safe is well hidden and not in plain sight.

How do you install a wall safe in your house?

To install a wall safe in your house, you will need to purchase a safe that is the appropriate size for the space you have available and the items you want to store inside. Most wall safes come with installation instructions, but you will also need to drill holes in the wall for the safe's anchor bolts. Once the safe is in place, you can secure it to the wall with the provided bolts or screws.

How heavy should a home safe be?

A home safe should be heavy enough that it cannot be easily moved or carried away, but not so heavy that it is difficult to move when necessary. The weight of a home safe is typically determined by the size and type of safe. For example, a small fireproof safe may weigh 50 pounds, while a large gun safe can weigh over 1,000 pounds.

How much does it cost to put a safe in the wall?

If you're looking to install a safe in your wall, the cost will vary depending on the size and type of safe you choose. Smaller safes can start around $100, while larger ones can cost upwards of $1,000. If you're looking for a high-end safe, you could be looking at a price tag of $5,000 or more.

How much money should I spend on a safe?

A safe is a wise investment for anyone who wants to protect their valuables. The amount of money you spend on a safe should be based on the value of the items you are storing and the level of security you need. A basic safe can cost as little as $50, while a high-end safe can cost several thousand dollars.

Is it wise to have a safe at home?

A home safe can be a wise investment. It can provide peace of mind and protection for your valuables in the event of a fire, burglary or other disaster. safes come in a variety of sizes and styles to fit your needs and budget.