A drainage layer is not strictly necessary for a terrarium, but it can help to prolong the life of your plants. The drainage layer will help to prevent the roots of your plants from sitting in water for too long, which can lead to rot. It can also help to prevent excess water from accumulating in the bottom of your terrarium, which can make it difficult for your plants to breathe.
Terrariums are self-sustaining ecosystems, so they don't require a false bottom. All of the nutrients and water the plants need are recycled within the terrarium.
If you want to clean rocks for a terrarium, the best way to do it is to soak them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water for about an hour. After that, rinse the rocks well with clean water and let them air dry.
To clean the inside of a terrarium, first remove all the plants and decorations. Next, empty out any water that is in the bottom of the terrarium. Then, using a sponge or cloth, wipe down the inside of the terrarium, being sure to get into all the nooks and crannies. Once you have finished cleaning, rinse out the terrarium with clean water and allow it to dry completely before adding any new plants or decorations.
4.7/5
Will not scratch glass like sand and provides excellent heat-conducting
Ideal for desert dwelling reptiles such as: adult bearded dragons, monitors, desert skinks and uromastyx
Ideal bedding depth in enclosure is 1 to 2-inches, remove and replace bedding monthly
100% Natural ground English Walnut shells replicate natural habitats and create an attractive desert environment
Stimulates natural digging and burrowing behavior and is an excellent heat conductor
$234
This is a great product that I bought to replace sand at a lower cost. In fact, it serves my needs far better than sand does. I could buy sand from a home improvement store and get much more for less money, but I really don't need 50 pounds of sand, especially because the sand is likely to be damp, needs to be dried before use, is too big to store in my house, and when it is dry, it probably also creates a lot of dust. This product is already clean, dry, and dust-free and is therefore a significant advantage over a big amount of sand for usage with little reptile pets. The quantity of the product is ideal as well; any hobbyist can keep this amount close to their work area (unlike a 50 pound bag of sand), and unless I'm mistaken, it's the same thing some companies sell as "railroad ballast," although this was by far less expensive. I bought mine to use as "earth" on bases for wargaming miniatures and other diorama and terrain projects. It comes in a plastic bag that is approximately 1 foot tall, 7 inches wide, and 4 or 5 inches thick (depending on how it is settled). It is sold in five dry quarts, and I would estimate that it weighs around ten pounds. The WS 32oz shaker jars at Amazon sell for around twice the price of this, and this bag has as much product as four or five of those. It's pretty much an identical match for the Woodland Scenics medium ballast product (perhaps right in between their fine and medium sizes). Five times as much for half the cost, and what's more, is the same thing? Definitely a satisfied customer here! Since that's what it's designed for, I'm sure it's ideal for our tiny squirming and digging creatures as well, but it's also ideal for my hobby. I've used it successfully for years, so it must be the same, and I'm thrilled to acquire so much for such a low price (six bucks and change, which is about the same as the price as the quite small bags of brown ballast from WS, much less the large shaker bottles). This is a fantastic deal for wargaming hobbyists who need materials like sand for miniature bases. If used only for bases, this one bag would probably cover a whole 4' x 8' piece of plywood (the size of the wargaming tabletops on which I engage in combat) with plenty of leftovers. If not, it would probably last me the remainder of my hobbying life. White glue, acrylic paints, and washes from Vallejo, Citadel, and Army Painter all work well with the usual brown ballast from WS, however some people may prefer the color exactly as is. It makes me very happy to have found this, and I heartily suggest it to enthusiasts of tabletop wargaming and military miniatures.
4.6/5
Absorbent, non-abrasive material will not irritate reptiles
Treated to reduce odors
Easy to clean with cold tap water
Safe because it cannot be digested like other substrates, a good alternative especially for juvenile reptiles
A low maintenance bedding, cut to size as needed
$234
This is a good product in my opinion. I believe I have nine of them on hand; some were bought on Amazon, others at a nearby pet store. After reading the evaluations, I've made the decision to respond to a couple of the complaints I saw there. In addition to some animals that this type of substrate is not really ideal for (five tarantulas, two scorpions, and a baby crested gecko that I will use the carpet for when it grows old enough to be transferred into a tank), I also own one black rat snake and two leopard geckos.I considered responding to some of the complaints I found in some of the reviews and offering my opinions on them. Please take note that I can only make observations about the specific animals I have, thus depending on the species, there may be other factors at play.(1) Size. I've had some really decent fits, but occasionally they've been a little too small or a hair shy. It's not a big problem, either way, I can adjust. I predict that the cutting procedure may not have been as precise as it may have been. I use these rugs in three different aquariums—a 55-gallon tank, a 20-gallon tank, and a 10-gallon tank—and the tweaks I've made have mostly just involved creatively rearranging the décor. Therefore, for me, that has not been a deal-breaker. I only have "long" tanks, so I can't speak to how the high-style fits fit. No points were docked.2) Cleaning and odor ease. These items, in my opinion, require MUCH less upkeep than loose substrate like Eco-earth, aspen bedding, etc. Although it is necessary to take down all the decor, I don't think it significantly lengthens the process. I remove any droppings after removal, usually by just flicking the majority of them off with a little garden trowel I keep particularly for that reason. I next put the carpets in a bucket, add some bleach, and fill it with water. (One should exercise caution while adding because doing so can reduce the material's lifespan. I let it five minutes to soak. The carpets will then be rinsed and spun in the washing machine after being removed from the mild bleach solution. I also occasionally run a wash cycle. These items spin out almost dry, so I just dry them for ten to fifteen minutes. After the procedure, they never smell in the slightest. So cleaning is not a problem at all for me. Just as the carpets are being cleaned, I work on other maintenance tasks. I keep many in order to spread out the wear and tear. I have one or two that, despite being used for a few years, are still in decent condition. In the case of the leopard geckos, once they choose a location to urinate, they don't stray from it, so I just laid down a spare swatch there as a makeshift "litter box". Their need to clean their carpet will be greatly reduced as a result. In contrast, my snake very much travels wherever he is when he feels the need, necessitating more frequent upkeep.For this aspect, no stars were deducted.3) The potential for teeth or nails to become entangled in the fabric. This DOES take place. Once, my snake REALLY got trapped after missing a strike at the mouse I supplied (I feed frozen/thawed, not live). Now I take extra care to avoid dragging the mouse across the floor like I did in that instance and instead maintain it elevated so the snake may snare it from above. No big deal if he misses; he simply retries after regaining his composure.Now, both of my leopard geckos have experienced it more than once. But I've never seen them get their claws caught on it. I just use a dish now. Although I don't really have a problem with this, it is still a factor, so one star is deducted.Someone was complaining that tarantulas should not be kept on, and I overheard them. It isn't, but that isn't a problem in the product, therefore I haven't even taken that issue into account. It is unsuitable for tarantulas for a few reasons, but I won't go into them here to save time. Trust me, don't use it for them. If you are, there's a good chance you should do some research on keeping them.In conclusion, I would suggest the carpets to someone who has animals similar to mine because I personally think they are useful for my needs. Oh, and one more thing: some animals will go beneath it if they can, but that is what animals like my snake do. Except when utilizing an under-tank heater—in which case you should certainly secure the carpet over that area to prevent any potential thermal burns—it is irritating but normally insignificant. Some of those heaters can get rather heated. However, in order to prevent the possibility of a thermal burn, you should should be utilizing a thermostat with them.
4.6/5
Safe because it cannot be digested like other substrates, a good alternative especially for juvenile reptiles
Treated with a biodegradable enzyme that reduces odors and is easy to clean with cold tap water
A low maintenance bedding, simply roll out and cut to size as needed
Absorbent, non-abrasive material will not irritate reptiles
Liner Dimensions: 17.25 x 47.25 Inches
$234
This is a good product in my opinion. I believe I have nine of them on hand; some were bought on Amazon, others at a nearby pet store. After reading the evaluations, I've made the decision to respond to a couple of the complaints I saw there. In addition to some animals that this type of substrate is not really ideal for (five tarantulas, two scorpions, and a baby crested gecko that I will use the carpet for when it grows old enough to be transferred into a tank), I also own one black rat snake and two leopard geckos.I considered responding to some of the complaints I found in some of the reviews and offering my opinions on them. Please take note that I can only make observations about the specific animals I have, thus depending on the species, there may be other factors at play.(1) Size. I've had some really decent fits, but occasionally they've been a little too small or a hair shy. It's not a big problem, either way, I can adjust. I predict that the cutting procedure may not have been as precise as it may have been. I use these rugs in three different aquariums—a 55-gallon tank, a 20-gallon tank, and a 10-gallon tank—and the tweaks I've made have mostly just involved creatively rearranging the décor. Therefore, for me, that has not been a deal-breaker. I only have "long" tanks, so I can't speak to how the high-style fits fit. No points were docked.2) Cleaning and odor ease. These items, in my opinion, require MUCH less upkeep than loose substrate like Eco-earth, aspen bedding, etc. Although it is necessary to take down all the decor, I don't think it significantly lengthens the process. I remove any droppings after removal, usually by just flicking the majority of them off with a little garden trowel I keep particularly for that reason. I next put the carpets in a bucket, add some bleach, and fill it with water. (One should exercise caution while adding because doing so can reduce the material's lifespan. I let it five minutes to soak. The carpets will then be rinsed and spun in the washing machine after being removed from the mild bleach solution. I also occasionally run a wash cycle. These items spin out almost dry, so I just dry them for ten to fifteen minutes. After the procedure, they never smell in the slightest. So cleaning is not a problem at all for me. Just as the carpets are being cleaned, I work on other maintenance tasks. I keep many in order to spread out the wear and tear. I have one or two that, despite being used for a few years, are still in decent condition. In the case of the leopard geckos, once they choose a location to urinate, they don't stray from it, so I just laid down a spare swatch there as a makeshift "litter box". Their need to clean their carpet will be greatly reduced as a result. In contrast, my snake very much travels wherever he is when he feels the need, necessitating more frequent upkeep.For this aspect, no stars were deducted.3) The potential for teeth or nails to become entangled in the fabric. This DOES take place. Once, my snake REALLY got trapped after missing a strike at the mouse I supplied (I feed frozen/thawed, not live). Now I take extra care to avoid dragging the mouse across the floor like I did in that instance and instead maintain it elevated so the snake may snare it from above. No big deal if he misses; he simply retries after regaining his composure.Now, both of my leopard geckos have experienced it more than once. But I've never seen them get their claws caught on it. I just use a dish now. Although I don't really have a problem with this, it is still a factor, so one star is deducted.Someone was complaining that tarantulas should not be kept on, and I overheard them. It isn't, but that isn't a problem in the product, therefore I haven't even taken that issue into account. It is unsuitable for tarantulas for a few reasons, but I won't go into them here to save time. Trust me, don't use it for them. If you are, there's a good chance you should do some research on keeping them.In conclusion, I would suggest the carpets to someone who has animals similar to mine because I personally think they are useful for my needs. Oh, and one more thing: some animals will go beneath it if they can, but that is what animals like my snake do. Except when utilizing an under-tank heater—in which case you should certainly secure the carpet over that area to prevent any potential thermal burns—it is irritating but normally insignificant. Some of those heaters can get rather heated. However, in order to prevent the possibility of a thermal burn, you should should be utilizing a thermostat with them.
4.6/5
Liner Dimensions: 17.25 x 35.25 Inches
Safe because it cannot be digested like other substrates, a good alternative especially for juvenile reptiles
A low maintenance bedding, simply roll out and cut to size as needed
Absorbent, non-abrasive material will not irritate reptiles
Treated with a biodegradable enzyme that reduces odors and is easy to clean with cold tap water
$234
This is a good product in my opinion. I believe I have nine of them on hand; some were bought on Amazon, others at a nearby pet store. After reading the evaluations, I've made the decision to respond to a couple of the complaints I saw there. In addition to some animals that this type of substrate is not really ideal for (five tarantulas, two scorpions, and a baby crested gecko that I will use the carpet for when it grows old enough to be transferred into a tank), I also own one black rat snake and two leopard geckos.I considered responding to some of the complaints I found in some of the reviews and offering my opinions on them. Please take note that I can only make observations about the specific animals I have, thus depending on the species, there may be other factors at play.(1) Size. I've had some really decent fits, but occasionally they've been a little too small or a hair shy. It's not a big problem, either way, I can adjust. I predict that the cutting procedure may not have been as precise as it may have been. I use these rugs in three different aquariums—a 55-gallon tank, a 20-gallon tank, and a 10-gallon tank—and the tweaks I've made have mostly just involved creatively rearranging the décor. Therefore, for me, that has not been a deal-breaker. I only have "long" tanks, so I can't speak to how the high-style fits fit. No points were docked.2) Cleaning and odor ease. These items, in my opinion, require MUCH less upkeep than loose substrate like Eco-earth, aspen bedding, etc. Although it is necessary to take down all the decor, I don't think it significantly lengthens the process. I remove any droppings after removal, usually by just flicking the majority of them off with a little garden trowel I keep particularly for that reason. I next put the carpets in a bucket, add some bleach, and fill it with water. (One should exercise caution while adding because doing so can reduce the material's lifespan. I let it five minutes to soak. The carpets will then be rinsed and spun in the washing machine after being removed from the mild bleach solution. I also occasionally run a wash cycle. These items spin out almost dry, so I just dry them for ten to fifteen minutes. After the procedure, they never smell in the slightest. So cleaning is not a problem at all for me. Just as the carpets are being cleaned, I work on other maintenance tasks. I keep many in order to spread out the wear and tear. I have one or two that, despite being used for a few years, are still in decent condition. In the case of the leopard geckos, once they choose a location to urinate, they don't stray from it, so I just laid down a spare swatch there as a makeshift "litter box". Their need to clean their carpet will be greatly reduced as a result. In contrast, my snake very much travels wherever he is when he feels the need, necessitating more frequent upkeep.For this aspect, no stars were deducted.3) The potential for teeth or nails to become entangled in the fabric. This DOES take place. Once, my snake REALLY got trapped after missing a strike at the mouse I supplied (I feed frozen/thawed, not live). Now I take extra care to avoid dragging the mouse across the floor like I did in that instance and instead maintain it elevated so the snake may snare it from above. No big deal if he misses; he simply retries after regaining his composure.Now, both of my leopard geckos have experienced it more than once. But I've never seen them get their claws caught on it. I just use a dish now. Although I don't really have a problem with this, it is still a factor, so one star is deducted.Someone was complaining that tarantulas should not be kept on, and I overheard them. It isn't, but that isn't a problem in the product, therefore I haven't even taken that issue into account. It is unsuitable for tarantulas for a few reasons, but I won't go into them here to save time. Trust me, don't use it for them. If you are, there's a good chance you should do some research on keeping them.In conclusion, I would suggest the carpets to someone who has animals similar to mine because I personally think they are useful for my needs. Oh, and one more thing: some animals will go beneath it if they can, but that is what animals like my snake do. Except when utilizing an under-tank heater—in which case you should certainly secure the carpet over that area to prevent any potential thermal burns—it is irritating but normally insignificant. Some of those heaters can get rather heated. However, in order to prevent the possibility of a thermal burn, you should should be utilizing a thermostat with them.
4.6/5
A low maintenance bedding, simply roll out and cut to size as needed
Absorbent, non-abrasive material will not irritate reptiles
Treated with a biodegradable enzyme that reduces odors and is easy to clean with cold tap water
Liner Dimensions: 11.75 x 47.5 Inches
Safe because it cannot be digested like other substrates, a good alternative especially for juvenile reptiles
$234
This reptile carpet is gorgeous. This material truly does seem to function the best and make for the easiest cleanup, especially for my snakes and leopard geckos. I've experimented with a variety of substrates—aspen, sand, pellets, tile, you name it—and this one stands out as my favorite and, I believe, my reptile's favorite. I use Zilla pellets for bearded dragons because they are too dirty for this to be feasible for them. My own preference is to utilize a substrate that keeps humidity better for my water dragon instead of this one. We strongly advise purchasing two of these for each enclosure you intend to use them in and replacing them after they have been sanitized. That's the most effective and simple system I've developed. They tolerate hand washing well.
4.6/5
Ideal for naturalistic terrarium type set-ups incorporating reptiles, amphibians or invertebrates
Use it damp for tropical species as it naturally absorbs and breaks down odor and waste products
24 quart economy size for larger terrariums
$234
For my six hermit crabs, I've been using this substrate for the past six years. They appear to be happy. I've occasionally combined it with some Flukers sand, but primarily this substrate. Since hermit crabs have "modified gils" and require humidity to breathe, it's critical to maintain humidity levels between 60 and 70 percent. Regulate the temperature to roughly 75 degrees, or just a few degrees less or more, and use heating pads on the tank. Mine favor a little bit of warmth. Because the pet store counter food is terrible, I also order speciality food from ETSY. My hermit crabs are flourishing and in good health. Deep substrate is crucial because the crabs burrow and molt there. As they grow, they will also require larger shells. AVOID using painted shells. And because they require a lot of labor, I don't even advise buying them. It goes without saying that I take good care of them. The only reason I rated it four stars is because gnats occasionally fly around. Despite what some people may think, I never see the gnats in the winter. So I'm not sure.
4.4/5
Ideal for amphibians and wetland environment reptiles
Great for use in humidifying shelters
Completely natural forest moss (no dyes or chemicals)
Excellent for use as egg-laying and incubation medium
$234
This moss is the one that my tiny box turtle like more than any other. She must sprinkle it every day since it retains moisture well and prevents her from being coated in coconut fiber ( or dirt). I topped it with a layer of coconut fiber that was 3–4 inches thick. More moisture can be held in the coconut fiber. She like walking on this because I dampen it every day as well. I have a turtle with special requirements who walks a little awkwardly due to her slightly crooked spine. I make sure she has a comfortable bed and steps made out of pavers to get to her sunbathing area. (Not excessively high; just slanted). She really enjoys looking for bugs that have dug burrows in this stuff. She finds it entertaining. Much better than simply having the "carpet" on the floor, it works beautifully. This is ideal for turtle burrowing, which they NEED. I make an effort to be mindful of her tiny eyes. I make sure she has a thick coating of this on top so that she can burrow and so that it won't irritate her eyes because she tends to respond to the coconut fiber.
3.5/5
A low maintenance bedding, simply roll out and cut to size as needed
Absorbent, non-abrasive material will not irritate reptiles
Safe because it cannot be digested like other substrates, a good alternative especially for juvenile reptiles
Treated with a biodegradable enzyme that reduces odors and is easy to clean with cold tap water
Liner Dimensions: 9.75 x 19.75 Inches
$234
This is a good product in my opinion. I believe I have nine of them on hand; some were bought on Amazon, others at a nearby pet store. After reading the evaluations, I've made the decision to respond to a couple of the complaints I saw there. In addition to some animals that this type of substrate is not really ideal for (five tarantulas, two scorpions, and a baby crested gecko that I will use the carpet for when it grows old enough to be transferred into a tank), I also own one black rat snake and two leopard geckos.I considered responding to some of the complaints I found in some of the reviews and offering my opinions on them. Please take note that I can only make observations about the specific animals I have, thus depending on the species, there may be other factors at play.(1) Size. I've had some really decent fits, but occasionally they've been a little too small or a hair shy. It's not a big problem, either way, I can adjust. I predict that the cutting procedure may not have been as precise as it may have been. I use these rugs in three different aquariums—a 55-gallon tank, a 20-gallon tank, and a 10-gallon tank—and the tweaks I've made have mostly just involved creatively rearranging the décor. Therefore, for me, that has not been a deal-breaker. I only have "long" tanks, so I can't speak to how the high-style fits fit. No points were docked.2) Cleaning and odor ease. These items, in my opinion, require MUCH less upkeep than loose substrate like Eco-earth, aspen bedding, etc. Although it is necessary to take down all the decor, I don't think it significantly lengthens the process. I remove any droppings after removal, usually by just flicking the majority of them off with a little garden trowel I keep particularly for that reason. I next put the carpets in a bucket, add some bleach, and fill it with water. (One should exercise caution while adding because doing so can reduce the material's lifespan. I let it five minutes to soak. The carpets will then be rinsed and spun in the washing machine after being removed from the mild bleach solution. I also occasionally run a wash cycle. These items spin out almost dry, so I just dry them for ten to fifteen minutes. After the procedure, they never smell in the slightest. So cleaning is not a problem at all for me. Just as the carpets are being cleaned, I work on other maintenance tasks. I keep many in order to spread out the wear and tear. I have one or two that, despite being used for a few years, are still in decent condition. In the case of the leopard geckos, once they choose a location to urinate, they don't stray from it, so I just laid down a spare swatch there as a makeshift "litter box". Their need to clean their carpet will be greatly reduced as a result. In contrast, my snake very much travels wherever he is when he feels the need, necessitating more frequent upkeep.For this aspect, no stars were deducted.3) The potential for teeth or nails to become entangled in the fabric. This DOES take place. Once, my snake REALLY got trapped after missing a strike at the mouse I supplied (I feed frozen/thawed, not live). Now I take extra care to avoid dragging the mouse across the floor like I did in that instance and instead maintain it elevated so the snake may snare it from above. No big deal if he misses; he simply retries after regaining his composure.Now, both of my leopard geckos have experienced it more than once. But I've never seen them get their claws caught on it. I just use a dish now. Although I don't really have a problem with this, it is still a factor, so one star is deducted.Someone was complaining that tarantulas should not be kept on, and I overheard them. It isn't, but that isn't a problem in the product, therefore I haven't even taken that issue into account. It is unsuitable for tarantulas for a few reasons, but I won't go into them here to save time. Trust me, don't use it for them. If you are, there's a good chance you should do some research on keeping them.In conclusion, I would suggest the carpets to someone who has animals similar to mine because I personally think they are useful for my needs. Oh, and one more thing: some animals will go beneath it if they can, but that is what animals like my snake do. Except when utilizing an under-tank heater—in which case you should certainly secure the carpet over that area to prevent any potential thermal burns—it is irritating but normally insignificant. Some of those heaters can get rather heated. However, in order to prevent the possibility of a thermal burn, you should should be utilizing a thermostat with them.
A bioactive substrate is a material that can support the growth and activity of microorganisms. The most common type of bioactive substrate is a soil or sediment. Other types of bioactive substrates include sewage sludge, manure, compost, and biosolids. To make a bioactive substrate, the first step is to mix the desired microorganisms with the substrate material. The microorganisms can be obtained from a variety of sources, including sewage treatment plants, manure pits, and compost piles. The microorganisms and substrate material are then placed in an incubation chamber, where they
Sanitizing sand for a terrarium is a simple process that can be done a few different ways. One way is to bake the sand in the oven at a low temperature for about an hour. This will kill any bacteria or fungus that may be present. Another way is to soak the sand in a bleach solution for 24 hours. Be sure to rinse the sand well before using it in your terrarium.
Reptiles are animals that are commonly kept as pets. They have specific needs that must be met in order to ensure their health and well-being. One of those needs is a clean and appropriate substrate. The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the reptile's enclosure. It can be made of different materials, such as sand, soil, bark, or gravel. The substrate must be changed regularly to prevent the build-up of bacteria and other harmful organisms. How often the substrate should be changed depends on the type of reptile and the material used
A terrarium is a great way to bring the outdoors inside, and with proper care, can last for years. When it comes to cleaning a terrarium, it really depends on the type of plants and animals you have inside. For example, if you have a desert terrarium with cacti and succulents, it will need less water and you won’t have to clean it as often. On the other hand, a tropical terrarium with ferns and moss will require more moisture and you’ll need to clean it more frequently to prevent mold and mild
If you're looking to add some extra decoration to your bearded dragon's cage, sand is definitely not the way to go. Sand can cause serious health problems if your dragon ingests it, and it can also irritate their skin.
Bearded dragons are a type of lizard that is native to Australia. They are found in a variety of habitats, but prefer arid, desert-like conditions. Bearded dragons are omnivorous, meaning they will eat both plants and animals. In the wild, their diet consists mostly of insects, but they will also eat small mammals, reptiles, and birds. Bearded dragons are popular pets, and are kept in captivity all over the world. When kept as pets, they are typically fed a diet of live insects, such as crickets and mealworms. Some pet
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