Yes, a sewage ejector pump can be installed outside, but it must be properly protected from the elements.
Yes, you can use an effluent pump instead of a sump pump, but there are some things to consider before making the switch. Effluent pumps are designed to pump water that contains solids, while sump pumps are not. This means that effluent pumps can handle sewage and other wastewater, but sump pumps cannot. If you have a septic system, an effluent pump is a better choice since it can pump the sewage from the tank to the leach field without clogging. However, effluent pumps are more expensive than sump pumps and they require more maintenance
In theory, you could pump sewage uphill to a septic tank. However, it would be a lot of work and not very practical. The septic tank would also have to be very large to accommodate the amount of sewage that would be produced by a home or business. It is much easier and more practical to pump sewage downhill to a treatment plant.
If your home is not connected to a sewer system, then you likely have a sewage ejector pump. These pumps are used to pump sewage from your home to a septic tank or leach field. If you have a sewage ejector pump, you should check it regularly to make sure it is working properly. If you notice any problems, such as water backing up into your home or a bad odor, then you should call a plumber to have your pump repaired or replaced.
4.6/5
Heavy duty cast iron and thermoplastic construction for strength and long life
Click on the Water Ace products link at the top of this page to see more pump options from Water Ace products
Download the user manual under the technical specification section of this page for safety, installation, troubleshooting, and information
Pumps 2 inch solids
Extra long 20' power cord length for installation flexibility
$234
I was able to successfully adapt this robust, well-built pump to our planned use—maintaining a sizable swimming pool that has been converted into a koi pond. Even though he rarely went swimming, my father bought a home with a pool because he saw it as evidence of his success in life. He proudly raked the leaves out of the pool and scrubbed it every day. Since we have many tall trees here in the tropics, there were also a lot of leaves. But as he aged, the leaves started to stay on the tree longer, making upkeep after his death rather difficult. In the end, we came to the conclusion that since we weren't swimming in it, it may become a lovely scenic pond, complete with koi and whatnot. After adding flowers, koi, mosquito fish, and other inhabitants and letting nature take its course, a small turtle soon emerged from a nearby stream and declared the area to be her lake. She and the koi are now both enormous and content.With the enormous amount of leaves and other debris that fall into the river, it is challenging to keep the water habitable. The oxygen in the top waters tends to be depleted and the fish become ill if it is jumbled up by sweeping the bottom. Because of this, we let the organics liquefy completely stratified at the bottom before pumping it out after rain. We've modified the roof gutter so that surplus roof runoff drains into the pool instead of the drainage ditches, providing us with "free water" volume to balance any that we pump down the hill.This leaves the pump with a challenging task since it must remove partially digested organic material from the low stratified, primarily anoxic layer without upsetting or contaminating the cleaner upper levels where ornamental fish and plants must survive. Small-diameter hose and a 1/4-hp pump were what we had been using, but it was challenging because the hose wouldn't pass much.In contrast, this pump is designed to handle a certain amount of solids. We do surround it with a wire basket to keep out larger particles than it can handle, but a lot of solid debris, such as digested leaves, still leaks through. We use a 2" flexible pool hose, which fit the 2" outflow outlet with ease. The 20-foot power cord was crucial for this application since the pump is submerged in 9 feet of water and is moved about to collect more particles. Naturally, the float-switch is always in the "on" position, and we manually switch the power from the surface. Naturally, we installed ground-fault interrupter protection, and the power circuit is usually off.The pool is kept reasonably clean, the koi and other animals are healthy, and this pump truly blasts out the water and solids. In terms of flow rate and the size of solids it can move, it is an improvement over the previous pump. The device works well, is constructed like a tank, and has the functionality required to perform effectively in this demanding application. I'll revisit the review if and when I have more to say.Recommended.
4.5/5
Performance: 128 GPM at 5' TDH, shut-off: 21.5' TDH
Made in the USA
1/2 HP submersible sewage pump, 100% factory tested
2" NPT discharge, passes 2" spherical solids
Automatic model with integral float switch
Cast iron construction, 10' cord
$234
Sincerity dictates that I didn't require a septic pump. My application really simply required an effluent pump, which is merely water that has been contaminated with bacteria. Having said that, I firmly believe in Murphy, and spending an extra $100 to digest materials up to 2" in diameter with a cast iron impeller was right up my alley. Who wants to repeat this, for real?This was delivered to the front porch two days after I ordered it by a small mail carrier. I'm not sure how a tiny woman managed to lift a cumbersome 40-pound box. On the tiny, three-year-old pump that the owners before me installed, this thing has easily 25 pounds. My 4' x 4' effluent reservoir must be filled for more than 15 minutes using the hose in order for the pump to turn on. This little guy pulls a decent 8.4 amps through a 2" line in less than a minute to pump it down.Below are a few ideas:1. If your system has a high level alarm, get new PVC piping and a new float switch. Much less gross and only $25.2. Attach a brand-new, extraordinarily robust synthetic rope. Make a granny knot out of it that would make the boy scout leader cry.2. The best zip ties are the giant 36" ones. Buy some for this project, and you'll discover more uses for it.3. Watertight plugs will stop rusted connections and the need for additional work. They are promoted by numerous businesses and seem to be the same.Pay the $20 for each person and take the risk. Remember to include the male and female ends. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003ATO3CE/ref=twister B003GIS35W? encoding=UTF8
4.5/5
Threads into pump discharge
Rubber coupling with stainless steel clamps
Pre-drilled weep hole
$234
I exactly needed the Zoeller 30-0238 check valve. It has a very small footprint and a straightforward construction that attaches right into a 1 1/2" sump pump discharge. Compared to similar purpose valves found in hardware and big box retailers, it is built superior. Unfortunately, the long white valve assembly in the illustration is not the Zoeller 30-0238 valve. The valve displayed appears to be the excellent Zoeller 30-0040 valve, which is not the one I desired but is still a nice valve. By the way, I had to make a few calls before I understood this. After alerting Amazon to the mistake, I received a guarantee that they would update the image at a later time. Only time will tell.
4.5/5
Redundant upper limit sensors for “fail-safe†reliability
No moving parts and outlasts mechanical float switches 7 to 1
LevelGuard products are warranted for five (5) years
Rated for 12-amp pump motors
UL-listed solid-state electronic sewage/effluent pump switch
$234
I bought this item to manage the level of a condensate tank I had made specifically for my furnace. I discovered that the conventional floats' regular operating range was excessive since I intended to increase the high to low range for the tank in question. The other problem with floats is that mechanical switches, which have a short cycle life, must be used instead of mercury switches in order to comply with California guide requirements. Online retailers sell mercury float switches, although most big-box retailers do not. This device's typical operating range is around 8 inches, which was ideal for my application. I chose this because it is entirely solid state, however I was concerned because it was mentioned in a few reviews that the maximum pumping time is only 60 seconds. That information is only available on the manufacturer's website. This is accurate, and the high to low pump duration was 90 seconds given the size of my pump and piping. I modified the pump's output line from 1/2" to 3/4" in order to solve the problem, which resulted in a pumping duration from high to low of 45 seconds—well inside the allowed 60 seconds. It has performed well so far. My furnace cycles about three times per day because it produces roughly 12 gal of condensate per day.After a year, an update Still performing well!
4.1/5
Imported
Includes: Automatic switch, 10' power cord
Patented V-Slice cutter technology
N/A
Shreds difficult solids such as feminine products, rags, towels and wipes
115V single phase
Heavy cast iron construction
$234
The grinder pump performs exactly as shown in the YouTube videos. Suitable with existing 120V circuits. I used it to swap out a non-grinder lift pump that was installed by the builder and would clog around every three months. This grinder pump has been working well for about 4 months at this point. I'm glad I upgraded since I won't have to clean that disgusting things out of my pump any more.
3.9/5
Tethered float switch to automatically turn the pump on/off.
1/2 HP Sewage pump moves up to 4,800 gallons per hour; pump will lift water up to 25' of vertical height
Superior Pumps are Built to Last, engineered with quality components and are 100% factory tested
2 inch NPT discharge, will handle up to 2 inch solids and features a non-clogging vortex impeller
Rugged cast iron construction; 10' cord length
$234
This was intended to replace a 3/4 HP pump that became clogged. This was a lot lighter and had a capacity that was considerably over my usual needs and quite close to the 3/4 mark.Since it is so light and makes almost no noise when running, it is simple to drop into the well. Remember that when you install the pump floating switch in the well, it might not be in the best location. For instance, if you utilize the standard-size well and place the pump dead center, there won't be enough area for the switch to travel freely. In order to install the pump correctly, it must be placed OPPOSITE the pump float switch, virtually against the wall. By doing this, you allow the switch adequate space to move and move in any direction it chooses. Very significant! Never undervalue the amount of flexibility the pump switch will require.Additionally, there is NO intake screen, despite what you may see in the product's images or video. There is no screen visible when looking at the pump inlet from the bottom; all that is seen is a sizable 1.5 to 2 inch hole. Although I don't believe this to be a problem, it is something to be aware of if this is a selling factor for you.
3.5/5
1/2 HP, maximum flow rate is 4800 Gallons per Hour, maximum head is 27 ft.
10 ft. power cord with tetherd piggy-back float switch
Two-year limited warranty
Durable cast iron volute
2 in. discharge capable of handling up to 2 in. Solids
$234
Three to four stars are awarded for the pump because it operates quietly, appears to be well-built, but reliability has not yet been established. For the float changeover, one to two stars are deducted.A sewage pump replacement is not a fun task. Double the effort? Installation should have been tried earlier. The switch would not turn on in any position after installation, from well above to above the top of the pump, even with the first tank of water. According to the instructions, the tethered switch ought to activate once it floats above the pump. shorter and almost vertical tether? Not moving yet. I tested it with an ohm meter and a load (the pump). There was no electrical contact within the float itself, but it still moved freely.I would advise customers to use a continuity tester to test the switch before installing it, and perhaps to start out with a higher-quality switch. If the pump lasts for at least a few years, I'll make an effort to remember to update the review. The initial lasted for more than 20 years.Regarding the edit, the vendor swiftly replied that they will replace the float valve (which did so on 8/17/18, a couple of days later). Although I still advise customers to verify it before installation, it appears that this seller is striving to offer a quality product at a fair price.
3.5/5
Pumps 2" solids
Heavy duty cast iron and thermoplastic construction for strength and long life
Extra long 20' power cord length for installation flexibility
Click on the ECO-FLO Products link at the top of this page to see more pump options from ECO-FLO Products
Download the User Manual under the Technical Specification section of this page for safety, installation, troubleshooting, and warranty information
$234
Use this to periodically pump our septic system. Since we bought it, we've used it half a dozen times, and each time, it performed nicely. Pumps quickly and is unaffected by excrement or paper.Septic pumping guidelines:Do tie the cord off so it doesn't tug on the body directly where it is wired in.Do not plug anything in until the device is completely submerged.Do unplug when the line or sounds start to chug uncontrollably (this is a warning that your pump is trying to pump something it can't handle and could result in motor or blade burnout or breakage).Don't entirely empty your tank. Leave a minimum of a couple inches of mud. This shouldn't be an issue unless you're using a hose on the pump end, but always leave a small amount of the slurry to preserve the bacteria you've established (unless things have gone south, at that point consult a professional).Avoid letting the pump remain at the bottom of your septic system since this is where thick and heavy objects may collect, ruining the pump or removing the materials that aid in waste breakdown.Overall, this pump has been a wonderful fit for our needs and is reasonably priced. I'll let you know if anything alters.
3.4/5
Will replace most sewage pumps without any plumbing changes
Ideal for basement or below grade installations; Durable, cast iron submersible sewage pump.
1/2 hp; max. Flow rate is 5700 gallons per hour; 3240 gph at 10 ft. Of discharge lift
2 in. Npt discharge capable of handling up to 2 in. Solids
Designed for 18-inch diameter or larger sewage basins. The basin diameter should be a minimum of 18 inches and the depth a minimum of 24 inches.
1/2-Horsepower pumps up to4680-Gallon per hour at 5-Feet of lift
1 Year warranty for replacement parts
$234
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2.4/5
Not recommended for hand towels, feminine hygiene products, etc.
Reduces clogging of impeller and jamming situations
The robust cast iron body provides strength and longevity
High lift capacity of 35 feet with automatic vertical float switch
New 3/4 HP cast iron submersible sewage grinder pump with vertical float switch
Recommended for a residential sewage pump application
New grinding technology for sewage applications to eliminate solids
$234
The grinder pump was just installed. It just replaced an old pump and appears to be well made. The 1" to 2" modified discharge size worries me a little, but we'll see. When it starts, it is quiet and doesn't bang into the piping. The check valve also required replacement. Many years of trouble-free service is what I'm hoping for!
Installing a septic sewer pump is a simple process that can be completed in a few steps. First, locate the sewer cleanout and remove the cap. Next, use a hacksaw to cut the cleanout pipe about six inches above the ground. Next, insert the pump into the cleanout pipe and secure it with clamps. Finally, attach a hose to the pump and run it to the sewer line.
A sewage grinder pump is a wastewater conveyance device. It is designed to grind up wastewater solids into small pieces so that they can be easily transported through a small diameter pipe. The pump is typically used in situations where the wastewater contains large solids that would otherwise clog the pump or damage the impellers.
Effluent pumps are designed to move sewage from a septic tank to a drain field. The average effluent pump should last between 10 and 15 years, but this can vary depending on the quality of the pump, the amount of sewage it has to move, and the frequency of use.
A sewage pump typically costs between $100 and $600. The cost will depend on the size of the pump, the brand, and the specific features.
The cost of replacing a sewage ejector pump will vary depending on the size of the unit, the brand, and the specific model. However, on average, the cost of a replacement pump will be between $500 and $1,000.
The frequency with which a 1000 gallon septic tank should be pumped depends on a number of factors, including the number of people using the system, the amount of water used, and the type of system. However, as a general rule, a 1000 gallon septic tank should be pumped every 3-5 years.
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