Yes, you can use acrylic paint for printmaking. However, it is important to note that acrylic paint can be difficult to work with and may not produce the same results as other types of paint.
Yes, you can use fabric ink on paper. The ink will be absorbed by the paper, so it will be necessary to use more ink than you would if you were printing on fabric. It is also important to note that the ink will be permanent on the paper, so be sure to test it on a scrap piece of paper before using it on your project.
Yes, you can use India ink for printmaking. India ink is made from a mixture of soot and water, and it is very dense and opaque. When it is used for printmaking, it can produce very crisp and detailed images.
Oil paint is not typically used as printing ink because it is not water-based. However, it is possible to use oil paint as printing ink by first mixing it with a medium such as linseed oil or petroleum jelly. This will make the paint thinner and more manageable for printing. It is important to note that oil paint will take longer to dry than water-based inks, so be sure to allow plenty of time for your print to dry completely before framing or displaying it.
4.5/5
Cleans up easily with water
Speedball Water Soluble Block Printing Ink adds brilliance to your creations. Perfect for printmaking with linoleum, wood or any relief printing in the studio, school or home. Ink is non-toxic, gluten free and easily cleans up with soap and water. Made in the USA. Black. 2-1/2 Ounces.
Sold as each
Superior tacking to get the most even coverage on all printing surfaces
Mixes together well to create special tints and dries quickly enough for classroom use
AP certified
$234
Good stuff, I'm learning how to make linocut printing. If you're learning as well, please pay attention to the experts. I initially believed that I would be cheeky and use less ink "HA! That's stupid, I don't need to roll it out! I'll only use a brush to coat my brayer, and I'll be ready to go!"Nope. Be different from me. Pay attention to those who have been doing this well for a very long time. Apply your ink only once with a velvety roll-out. The contrast is astonishing. After giving up on doing things my obstinate a$$ way, I at last got some excellent prints.I like how simple it is to clean up. I spread mine in an old metal palette, but glass can also be used. Any smooth surface would probably work.
4.4/5
8 oz Opaque Gold ink
Rich, vibrant color is permanent when properly heat set
Made for printing on paper and textiles
Offers greater coverage and smoother workability
Cleans up with soap and water
$234
It works great to print on black microfiber sunglasses cases. Depending on my techniques, I can achieve very white or semi-white print, which is exactly how it should be.UPDATE: This ink doesn't like my new 180 mesh screen that I just bought. It is challenging to get enough ink to transfer through the screen due to the ink's thickness, and when I do, some of the ink is sucked back off the cloth due to the screen's small holes.The ink is excessively thick, and when I raise the screen, the suction does not remove the ink from the mesh in some spots, but rather draws it back onto the fabric. I wasted a lot of bags because I kept trying new ways, but I did get some halfway respectable outcomes.So I've wasted some money on my new 180 mesh aluminum screen. In order to test if I can repair and use that fine metal frame with 180 mesh screen and the nice diazo emulsion stencil I made, I guess I'm going to get some latex paint tomorrow and try it first. I'll then thin it as necessary. Additionally, I'm planning to create a new 100 count mesh screen using the speedball emulsion kit, much like my old screen.The speedball emulsion kit functions reasonably well, but you must move quickly and thinly. Well, at least I have the emulsion kit, so when I create the new screen with 100 mesh, I can do it correctly.One more thing that, um, is kind of humorous. I recently observed that this ink is unsuitable for nylon is written in BOLD LETTERS on the ink container. WHAT? I'm using my third jar of this ink, and I almost certainly am printing on NYLON microfiber bags. So.... If I have time, I let it air dry because the ink appears to function just fine. If I'm pressed for time, I spread the ink thin and use a heat gun and laser thermometer to cure it at 200 degrees. I had to reheat it to 200 degrees after cooling it down to about 70 degrees. This usually works for me to completely cure and dry the ink, but it doesn't always. It would be much preferable to let it to air dry for a few days.~
4.4/5
Set with iron- easy cleanup - nontoxic
Phosphorescent fabric screen ink
Water-soluble opaque screen printing ink
$234
It works great to print on black microfiber sunglasses cases. Depending on my techniques, I can achieve very white or semi-white print, which is exactly how it should be.UPDATE: This ink doesn't like my new 180 mesh screen that I just bought. It is challenging to get enough ink to transfer through the screen due to the ink's thickness, and when I do, some of the ink is sucked back off the cloth due to the screen's small holes.The ink is excessively thick, and when I raise the screen, the suction does not remove the ink from the mesh in some spots, but rather draws it back onto the fabric. I wasted a lot of bags because I kept trying new ways, but I did get some halfway respectable outcomes.So I've wasted some money on my new 180 mesh aluminum screen. In order to test if I can repair and use that fine metal frame with 180 mesh screen and the nice diazo emulsion stencil I made, I guess I'm going to get some latex paint tomorrow and try it first. I'll then thin it as necessary. Additionally, I'm planning to create a new 100 count mesh screen using the speedball emulsion kit, much like my old screen.The speedball emulsion kit functions reasonably well, but you must move quickly and thinly. Well, at least I have the emulsion kit, so when I create the new screen with 100 mesh, I can do it correctly.One more thing that, um, is kind of humorous. I recently observed that this ink is unsuitable for nylon is written in BOLD LETTERS on the ink container. WHAT? I'm using my third jar of this ink, and I almost certainly am printing on NYLON microfiber bags. So.... If I have time, I let it air dry because the ink appears to function just fine. If I'm pressed for time, I spread the ink thin and use a heat gun and laser thermometer to cure it at 200 degrees. I had to reheat it to 200 degrees after cooling it down to about 70 degrees. This usually works for me to completely cure and dry the ink, but it doesn't always. It would be much preferable to let it to air dry for a few days.~
4.4/5
This ink is ideal for dark fabrics paper or cardboard! Wash fast when properly heat-set
Speedball art products-opaque fabric screen printing ink
Con be screen printed or painted on with a brush
$234
It works great to print on black microfiber sunglasses cases. Depending on my techniques, I can achieve very white or semi-white print, which is exactly how it should be.UPDATE: This ink doesn't like my new 180 mesh screen that I just bought. It is challenging to get enough ink to transfer through the screen due to the ink's thickness, and when I do, some of the ink is sucked back off the cloth due to the screen's small holes.The ink is excessively thick, and when I raise the screen, the suction does not remove the ink from the mesh in some spots, but rather draws it back onto the fabric. I wasted a lot of bags because I kept trying new ways, but I did get some halfway respectable outcomes.So I've wasted some money on my new 180 mesh aluminum screen. In order to test if I can repair and use that fine metal frame with 180 mesh screen and the nice diazo emulsion stencil I made, I guess I'm going to get some latex paint tomorrow and try it first. I'll then thin it as necessary. Additionally, I'm planning to create a new 100 count mesh screen using the speedball emulsion kit, much like my old screen.The speedball emulsion kit functions reasonably well, but you must move quickly and thinly. Well, at least I have the emulsion kit, so when I create the new screen with 100 mesh, I can do it correctly.One more thing that, um, is kind of humorous. I recently observed that this ink is unsuitable for nylon is written in BOLD LETTERS on the ink container. WHAT? I'm using my third jar of this ink, and I almost certainly am printing on NYLON microfiber bags. So.... If I have time, I let it air dry because the ink appears to function just fine. If I'm pressed for time, I spread the ink thin and use a heat gun and laser thermometer to cure it at 200 degrees. I had to reheat it to 200 degrees after cooling it down to about 70 degrees. This usually works for me to completely cure and dry the ink, but it doesn't always. It would be much preferable to let it to air dry for a few days.~
4.3/5
Waterbased non-toxic non- flammable ink suitable for t-shirts tablecloths and most other fabrics
Ink must be heat-set once dry for permanence
This package contains one 8 ounce jar of ink
$234
Using freezer paper stencils created using my Silhouette Cameo cutting machine, I purchased this ink. For my son's first birthday, I used it to create a white on navy blue shirt. With just one layer, the white remained vivid and durable! I'm quite pleased with how this ink looks and feels on my black shirt. I applied the ink to the stencil with a sponge brush. Although it sometimes seemed like I was using a lot of ink, the sponge probably absorbed it all. I didn't cut corners since I wanted the white to be good and substantial.I should clarify that I also bought black ink, and I used that one first among the two. I believe I read reviews where it was advised to use gloves, but I can't remember. Even with the tab that was provided for that purpose, the seal under the lid was exceedingly difficult to remove. After wrangling the seal off the container, the ink ended up on my thumb and fingertips. The ink was visible everywhere it landed up because it was black, including my body and work surfaces. With the black ink project I completed, I wasn't as happy with the end outcome either, but it was almost certainly my fault because I was hesitant to use too much and so I probably didn't apply a heavy enough coat. I also applied the design to a cheap white undershirt for boys, however it stretched out a lot and cracked before I could heat set it. White ink was handled with gloves, and the tab on the white ink container's seal came off as intended.My encounter was fantastic! But it aroused my curiosity. In my experience, screen printing is more cost-effective than using freezer paper. I've done it a few times (took a class in college for my graphic design program). It was perfect for this project and perhaps others I'll work on in the future, but it made me long for screen printing's experience and process. In fact, after looking at the screens and other goods offered by Speedball, I'm considering switching from utilizing freezer paper to screens.
4.3/5
Perfect for t-shirts
Made for printing on paper and textiles
8 oz. jar of black ink
Easy clean up with soap and water
Water-soluble screen printing ink
$234
Using freezer paper stencils created using my Silhouette Cameo cutting machine, I purchased this ink. For my son's first birthday, I used it to create a white on navy blue shirt. With just one layer, the white remained vivid and durable! I'm quite pleased with how this ink looks and feels on my black shirt. I applied the ink to the stencil with a sponge brush. Although it sometimes seemed like I was using a lot of ink, the sponge probably absorbed it all. I didn't cut corners since I wanted the white to be good and substantial.I should clarify that I also bought black ink, and I used that one first among the two. I believe I read reviews where it was advised to use gloves, but I can't remember. Even with the tab that was provided for that purpose, the seal under the lid was exceedingly difficult to remove. After wrangling the seal off the container, the ink ended up on my thumb and fingertips. The ink was visible everywhere it landed up because it was black, including my body and work surfaces. With the black ink project I completed, I wasn't as happy with the end outcome either, but it was almost certainly my fault because I was hesitant to use too much and so I probably didn't apply a heavy enough coat. I also applied the design to a cheap white undershirt for boys, however it stretched out a lot and cracked before I could heat set it. White ink was handled with gloves, and the tab on the white ink container's seal came off as intended.My encounter was fantastic! But it aroused my curiosity. In my experience, screen printing is more cost-effective than using freezer paper. I've done it a few times (took a class in college for my graphic design program). It was perfect for this project and perhaps others I'll work on in the future, but it made me long for screen printing's experience and process. In fact, after looking at the screens and other goods offered by Speedball, I'm considering switching from utilizing freezer paper to screens.
4/5
This package contains one 8 ounce jar of ink
Waterbased non-toxic non- flammable ink suitable for t-shirts tablecloths and most other fabrics
Ink must be heat-set once dry for permanence
$234
Using freezer paper stencils created using my Silhouette Cameo cutting machine, I purchased this ink. For my son's first birthday, I used it to create a white on navy blue shirt. With just one layer, the white remained vivid and durable! I'm quite pleased with how this ink looks and feels on my black shirt. I applied the ink to the stencil with a sponge brush. Although it sometimes seemed like I was using a lot of ink, the sponge probably absorbed it all. I didn't cut corners since I wanted the white to be good and substantial.I should clarify that I also bought black ink, and I used that one first among the two. I believe I read reviews where it was advised to use gloves, but I can't remember. Even with the tab that was provided for that purpose, the seal under the lid was exceedingly difficult to remove. After wrangling the seal off the container, the ink ended up on my thumb and fingertips. The ink was visible everywhere it landed up because it was black, including my body and work surfaces. With the black ink project I completed, I wasn't as happy with the end outcome either, but it was almost certainly my fault because I was hesitant to use too much and so I probably didn't apply a heavy enough coat. I also applied the design to a cheap white undershirt for boys, however it stretched out a lot and cracked before I could heat set it. White ink was handled with gloves, and the tab on the white ink container's seal came off as intended.My encounter was fantastic! But it aroused my curiosity. In my experience, screen printing is more cost-effective than using freezer paper. I've done it a few times (took a class in college for my graphic design program). It was perfect for this project and perhaps others I'll work on in the future, but it made me long for screen printing's experience and process. In fact, after looking at the screens and other goods offered by Speedball, I'm considering switching from utilizing freezer paper to screens.
3.9/5
QUICK, EASY CLEAN UP – There is no messy clean up when using this water-soluble printing ink. When you are done with your project the ink will come right off you using soap and water.
INDUSTRY LEADING PRINTING INK – These block printing inks receive rave reviews from artists and students for good reason.  Included are red, blue, yellow, black, white and gold water-soluble inks that are all ground and milled to the perfect consistency.
INK HAS EXCELLENT TACK – The printing inks in this set all have nice tack which ensures even coverage and allows you to produce consistent, spectacular results every time.
CREATE GORGEOUS PRINTS – The water-soluble printmaking ink is ideal for block and relief printing.  Use this premium ink on linoleum, wood, Speedy-Cut Easy, Speedy-Cut, Speedy-Carve and Polyprint.
AP CERTIFIED – The Speedball Block Printing Ink Starter Set is safe for adults and children to use.  It is ACMI AP Certified and conforms to ASTM D-4236.
$234
My only issue with this ink is the price and short shelf life if you make a lot of prints like I do. Otherwise, it's great. The less expensive inks on Amazon were terrible when I tried them. I have to admit that these inks are far superior and produce an incredibly lovely outcome. On paper and fabric, I use rubber stamp and block printing, which both produce excellent results. I also use these with the fantastic speedball metallics to create sparkly colors. I also layer them and mix them up a lot to create new effects, and it works out well. Just a little amount of trial and error is needed! The outcome of one such experiment is depicted in the picture.
3.8/5
Cleans up with soap and water
Non-flammable, non-toxic
Watersoluble screen printing inks
$234
With good coverage, it is nice and bright. I applied two coats just in case because I had read in a review that it doesn't show up well. I'm quite happy with this purchase.
Ink and paint serve different purposes in printmaking. Paint is used to add color to a print, while ink is used to transfer an image from one surface to another.
No, you do not need special paper for printmaking. You can use any type of paper that you like.
To make block print ink, you will need: 1 cup of linseed oil 1/2 cup of gum turpentine 1/4 cup of litharge 1/4 cup of powdered rosin 1/2 ounce of beeswax First, heat the linseed oil and gum turpentine in a double boiler. Next, add the litharge, rosin and beeswax to the mixture and heat until the beeswax is melted. Finally, allow the mixture to cool and solidify before using.
There are a few key differences between screen printing ink and block printing ink. Screen printing ink is generally thinner and more fluid, making it easier to work with on a screen printing press. Block printing ink is generally thicker and more viscous, making it better suited for printing with a block or stamp. Screen printing ink also dries faster, which can be helpful when printing on multiple colors or layers.
Block printing is a printing process where ink is applied to a raised surface, such as a wooden block, and then transferred to paper. This type of printing was popular in the past for creating designs on fabric and paper. Today, it is still used by artists and crafters to create unique prints. The ink used for block printing is typically a oil-based or water-based ink.
There are a variety of inks that can be used for linocut, but the most common is oil-based block printing ink. This type of ink is durable and can be thinned with linseed oil, making it easy to work with.
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