Best Power Tile & Masonry Saws in 2022

Last update: November 19, 2022

Can I cut tile with a masonry blade?

Yes, you can cut tile with a masonry blade, but it's not the best tool for the job. A masonry blade is designed for cutting bricks and concrete, so it's not as precise as a tile blade. Plus, the masonry blade will wear out quickly if you use it to cut tile.

Can I use a masonry cut-off wheel on tile?

A masonry cut-off wheel can be used on tile, but it is not the ideal tool for the job. A tile saw or a wet saw is a better choice for cutting tile.

Can you cut tiles with a brick saw?

A brick saw is a power tool used for cutting bricks and other masonry materials. It can be used to cut tiles, but only if the tile is made of a material that can be cut with a brick saw.

Can you use a masonry saw for tile?

A masonry saw is a great tool for cutting tile. It can easily cut through tile, making it a great choice for projects that require tile cutting.


SKILSAW SPT79A-10 7" Walk Behind Worm Drive for Concrete Review:


I enjoy using my tools. This device is amazing!The only recommendation I have for the maker is to make the guide wheel slightly broader than the cutting blade so it won't get stuck in the cut on the second cut, and perhaps to raise the water line shutoff so it's closer to the handle for simpler on/off switching while moving. And to those who are debating buying it, quit humming and haranguing and just do it! I love it!



Makita 4100KB 5" Dry Masonry Saw, with Dust Extraction Review:


This saw is the only one I have that I use to cut granite, and it performs remarkably well for a dry saw. Although the blade life is not outstanding, I believe that is to be expected when cutting dry through stone. This Makita tool is excellent, as are all of their products. This approach is made even better by the guide bar setup. Makita 194368-5 Guide Rail, 55-Inch; Makita 198673-2 Guide Rail Adapter.



Milwaukee 2522-20 M12 FUEL 3-Inch Compact Cut Off Tool (Bare Tool) Review:


It is portable, lightweight, and simple to use. When you turn it on, it doesn't twist in your hand as an angle grinder does. It chops fairly quickly.Nails used for framing disappear rapidly. It takes some time to process 1/4" square stock. But if you don't maintain it parallel to your cut, it will bind up. Although I am intrigued in using the carbide grit disk and shoe on drywall, I have only used it so far on metal. It might take the place of my corded roto-zip tool if it had a depth stop and dust collection. It's unfortunate that there isn't an M12 hosed vacuum to go with it.Update: It is AMAZING and I have used it to cut drywall during a rebuild. There is absolutely no dust, it cuts as quickly as your hand can move, and there is no danger of accidentally cutting through any pipelines or wires. The only tricks are that you must plunge into the cut with the front of the plate hitting the wall when you first begin it, and that you must maintain complete straightness throughout the cut to prevent binding and stalling.The shoe's difficulty in putting on and taking off is the only thing I can criticize. The guard and disk must fit through the shoe's side hole with just the appropriate amount of twist.



SKIL 3540-02 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw Review:


To my brick fireplace, I added ledger panels made of stacked stone. I required renting a wet tile saw (which I have done in the past to tile my floors). I knew I would need access to a tile saw multiple times since I was worried about finishing the fireplace in one or two days due to the weight of the stones sticking to the brick wall. A wet tile saw would cost $40–$50 per day to rent. I could rent or buy a wet tile saw for more than $200. I was reluctant to invest in a full-sized wet tile saw (for storage reasons, plus I have already tiled six rooms and do not expect to do any more in the future).I purchased this Skil for $100. (saw, shipping, tax). It worked flawlessly.The stone panels were easily cut. I did not utilize the advice because the stone panels are too huge and the thickest stone was 1.25", which is little thicker than advised (24" by 6").The time it took to make each cut was slower than a larger wet tile saw, but the cost savings made that a non-issue. The reservoir for the water is small, and I would change the water more frequently, but (again, the savings made this another non-issue.) Allowing the blade to do the work is important.The way this wet tile saw performed, I couldn't be happier.The drawback, if you are thinking about this model, is that if I were to tile a family room floor and wanted to finish the job in one or two days, I may prefer to rent a small or medium size wet tile saw because those models cut quicker and have larger water reservoirs. I also prefer having a guide when cutting tile for floors, though not having one for cutting the stone panels was not a problem in this project. If you are not in a rush to finish your project, this model is for



DEWALT Wet Tile Saw with Stand, 10-Inch (D24000S) Review:


Although this saw was pricey for a homeowner's do-it-yourself tile project, I chose a pattern that required several lengthy cuts and it ended up literally saving my life. I had first purchased a Rigid R4091 because it had all the bells and whistles and was, theoretically, a superior saw, but after spending 4 days (and approximately $30 worth of tile) attempting to calibrate it so it would cut square, straight, and consistently, I was at my wits' end. Despite having fewer functions, I felt that the highly regarded Dewalt D24000 was worth every penny of its $720 price tag if it just functioned. I nervously awaited the results for three days, wondering if I had just spent yet more money to find that the Rigid was only an average performer and I had simply set my expectations too high, or worse, that I was simply not suited for the tile work.When the Dewalt saw was delivered, I took it out of the packaging and put it together as instructed. Deep sigh of relief as the very first cut was flawlessly square and straight as an arrow. The miter gauge is adjusted to a 4 "and began cutting tiles at a wide 90 degree angle. The first row's cuts were all within.02 "(Sorry for being all dimensiony, but as an engineer, I approach tile work that way.) This was a significant advance over the Rigid, which would cut a few saw-toothed tiles (up to.13" end to end on a 12" tile), a few straight tiles, and then more saw-toothed tiles. Following that, I began cutting my diagonal pieces. The rubber on the sled did an excellent job of preventing the tile from sliding while I cut even though it wasn't up against a stop. The blade didn't exactly line up as well as I'd have wanted with the notch for cutting diagonally, but I was afraid of ruining it with changes so I used it as is. I produced around 150 12 "without the saw having any problems, just a few cuts while taking a shower. The original blade is still functioning flawlessly and cuts like a champ. Not everyone will benefit from this, but if you're thinking of a 10 "I would without a doubt recommend this wet tile saw.Disclaimer: Even though this was my first tile project, I cannot in any way pretend to be an expert despite the fact that everything turned out just as I had hoped.



SKILSAW SPT79-00 15-Amp MEDUSAW Worm Drive Saw for Concrete, 7" Review:


Cutting granite slabs, NOT concrete, served as the basis for this study.I thought I would first make a few introductory ideas and observations before getting into how this saw actually cuts granite slabs. Then, when I use it more frequently, I'll update my review to include information on the positive and negative elements of how it works to precisely cut granite slabs to size.1. Blade: I purchased a 7" Dewalt continuous rim blade that could be mounted on a diamond-shaped SkilSaw arbor as well as an arbor with a 5/8" or 7/8" diameter. For cutting concrete, granite, etc., nearly all continuous rim, diamond-surfaced blades feature a 5/8" arbor insert that can be removed and placed on a diamond knockout-shaped saw arbor. However, you need to be careful to ensure that the blade has 4 7/8" sectors that will fit over the SkilSaw SPT79-00 7/8" diameter arbor when the insert is knocked out. These sectors are absent from some blades, such as diamond-shaped knockout wood-cutting blades.2. Cutting Up to or Near an Edge: When cutting up to or near an edge of a slab, the only way to use all four wheels is to have a wheel guide off the slab that supports the two wheels closest to the blade. 8/4/2019 edited I took off the saw's four wheels and set it on its platen. The two off-slab platforms were eliminated.3. Saw Guide: I feel like it's really necessary to run the saw along some form of straight guide bar in order to make an exact long, straight cut. Use the edge of the platen that's furthest from the blade to run against the guide bar. This is feasible because the platen protrudes further than the wheels. I fastened a very flat, straight 2x4 to the slab at both ends after ripping it on my table saw. When making a lengthy cut, if you firmly hold the saw platen against that guide, the cut will be straight.4. The wheels' mounting shafts have some flex from left to right. When you run the saw platen up against a rigid guide bar, the play is reduced, but on closer inspection, I'm toying with the idea of adding washers to those shafts. Wheel play is barely a problem.5. Vacuum Attachment: Because I wet cut, I don't believe a shop vac has to be attached. Some people who responded to my inquiries about this saw advised me to do this.Additional performance remarks 8/4/2019Granite was cut with this saw in an outstanding manner. You'll be pleased if you use a nicer blade. I only chopped when the water feed system was running, and it prevented leaks and cut-related dust by 99%. When wet cutting, there was no need for the suction attachment and a shop vac to be running. You will get incredibly precise and straight cuts if you lean the platen farthest from the blade against a strong guide that you have clamped to the granite slab. In order to comfortably cut at waist height, I additionally kept my slab up on 4x4s straddle between saw horses. You can cut through the granite with this device like an axe through butter if you use the saw with the two hand grips at a relatively modest pace (of course, depending on the quality of the blade you use.) The machine is quite well constructed, with a platen, a saw motor housing, and 95% metal. Plunge cuts are also simple to perform. At the recommended service interval, make sure you change the oil in it. I'm looking forward to cutting many feet of granite slabs with this saw. It is STRONG!



SKIL 3550-02 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw with HydroLock Water Containment System Review:


In spite of the fact that it shouldn't matter that I am a woman and have never used a wet saw, I found it to be incredibly simple to use this saw to cut even the tiny pieces of glass mosaic tile. I was sure I could tile my bathroom backsplash after viewing a few YouTube tutorials on how to use this particular saw. As suggested by others, I purchased a premium diamond blade to cut glass. At first, I would repeatedly cut the tile tilted or with only a tiny chip remaining at the very end. I then opted to push the tile through with both hands, much as when you sew, while watching it with the splashguard raised (the guide was more annoying to use than helpful for the small glass tile). Wallah! I still have all ten of my fingers thanks to precise incisions and no chips. Naturally, I got a little bit wet this way. My first tile work came out pretty dang fantastic, and it was so much fun that I can't wait to use glass subway tile for my kitchen backsplash when I do it again. It's really simple to operate this wet saw. To assist you in making decisions or learning, I advise you to view the videos on YouTube.



DEWALT DWC860W 4-3/8-Inch Wet/Dry Masonry Saw Review:


Despite the fact that I frequently purchase items from Amazon, I hardly ever take the time to leave a review. To cut the cement board for my ongoing BBQ island project, I purchased this saw. I anticipate utilizing 20 sheets of 1/2" Hardibacker 500 in total. I've read a ton of reviews about cutting this stuff, and every single one of them complained about how difficult it was and how harmful the dust was to your health. Many people eventually settle on using a circular saw with a blade with a very low tooth count and donning a suitable 2 stage dust mask, but the dust still gets everywhere. After extensive searching, I discovered this saw on Amazon. I chopped using the saw this afternoon after it arrived today. It truly was as easy as cutting butter with a very hot knife to cut the 1/2" Hardieboard. It was really simple to follow my cut line because of how smoothly the cut edge was made. With one notable exception that many others have observed, this saw feels quite well crafted, as others have stated. The plastic water line fitting, which sprays water on both sides of the blade, has a similar texture to the drip irrigation fittings. I won't venture a guess as to how long it will last, but a year would surprise me. I'll create a replacement out of 1/4" copper tubing when it breaks.A plastic flow restrictor needs to be screwed onto the end of your water hose for the water hookup. I would advise adding a small shutoff valve at the end of the line and then connecting the flow restrictor to the shutoff valve for better control over stopping the water flow.Regarding the blade arbor's odd size, I'll just point out that a lot of 4 1/2" blades come with an arbor reducing adapter built right in. You may take the adaptor out of those blades and press it into any other 4 1/2" blade you like.The plastic water fitting is the only reason why I would give this saw an overall rating of 4.9 out of 5. Should I ever need to replace this one, I would buy another right away.



Rotorazer Platinum Compact Circular Saw Set -Extra Powerful-Deeper Cuts! Guide Rail- DIY Projects- Cut Drywall, Tile, Grout, Metal, Pipes, PVC, Plastic, Copper AS SEEN ON TV Review:


If you spend an extra $30, you may upgrade to the Rotorazer Platinum, which has a higher amp and a one-inch cutting depth. I haven't used it all that much, but it seems to be well crafted. I start by using one of my battery-powered gadgets. Depending on the nature of the project. The Rotorazer Platinum and the standard Rotorazer, in my opinion, are both significantly overpriced. That is just my viewpoint as someone who has frequently bought tools throughout the years. There are situations where you should think about spending top dollar, depending on how much you use a power tool and what you're doing with it. A table saw would be one illustration. There aren't many circular saws available with a short blade and enough power for modest work, which is why I purchased the Rotorazer Platinum.


Can you use a tile saw on concrete?

A tile saw is a wet saw that is used to cut tile. It can also be used to cut concrete.

Do you cut ceramic tile face up or down?

When cutting ceramic tile, you should always cut the tile face up. This allows you to see what you're doing and avoid chipping or breaking the tile.

Do you cut tile from the back or front?

When cutting tile, always cut from the front (face) side. The back (unglazed) side of the tile may have a slightly different color or texture, which would be visible in your finished project.

Do you push or pull a concrete saw?

When using a concrete saw, you should always push the blade into the concrete. Pulling the blade towards you can be very dangerous and can cause the blade to break.

How do I stop my tile from chipping when cutting?

If you're cutting tile with a manual tile cutter, you can avoid chipping the tile by using a scoring wheel that's the same size as the tile. First, make a shallow score across the tile with the scoring wheel. Then, place the tile cutter's blade on the tile where you want to make the cut and apply pressure to snap the tile along the score line.

Is a tile saw the same as a brick saw?

A tile saw is a power tool that is used to make precise cuts in tiles. A brick saw is a power tool that is used to make precise cuts in bricks.