Yes, you can repair cool deck around pool. First, you need to remove the damaged area of cool decking. Next, you need to clean and prepare the surface for repair. Then, you can apply a new layer of cool decking material.
If you have a crack in your pool, you may be wondering if Flex Seal is a good option to repair it. While Flex Seal can be used on many different types of surfaces, including pools, it is not necessarily the best option for every repair. Flex Seal is a good option for repairing small cracks, but it is not recommended for large cracks. If you have a large crack in your pool, you should consult a professional to determine the best repair option.
If your deck is old and weathered, you'll probably need to sand it before you restain. This will help to create a smooth surface for the new stain to adhere to. If your deck is newer, you may not need to sand it first.
Your deck is an important part of your home, and it’s one that you likely use often. Over time, though, your deck can start to show its age. If your deck is looking a little worse for wear, don’t worry – there are some easy ways to bring it back to life. One of the easiest ways to revive your deck is to simply power wash it. This will remove any dirt, grime, or mildew that has built up over time. Once your deck is clean, you can then stain or paint it, if desired
4.7/5
Plast-Aid 6.0 Oz Kit
$234
It performed admirably in the PVC application. It set up just as the YouTube tutorials demonstrated, but much more quickly than I had anticipated. It might have been my mix ratio, who knows, but it DID fast stop the leak I was experiencing in a schedule 40 pipe joint; it wasn't nice, but it worked. was simple to clean up as well.However, the odor is overpowering. The product STILL SMELLED to high heaven after being removed from the mailbox, despite being packaged in a sealed box, inside a plastic bag, inside a plastic container, AND IN ADDITION TO BEING IN A FIRMLY CAPSED BOTTLE. This is when using MAXIMUM ventilation is necessary, like a big box fan at minimum if you are under a sink. I wonder whether it will evaporate before I get to use it again because it is still off-gassing out of the bottle right now. However, it is effective at plugging leaks; whether it will be used to create molds or for other purposes is still up in the air. costly but efficient!!!
4.4/5
Guaranteed to fit hot tub size up to 76â€(L)x 76â€(W), Actual cover size is 78"(L)x78"(W)x20"(H). NOTE: This cover can not be used by itself without an insulated hard cover under it.
100% coverage UV-resistant design avoids the furniture exposure in the sun makes your hot tub always look like new.
Made of top quality 600D polyester canvas complex with Eco-friendly vinyl backing. UV-resistant and tough enough to keep rain, hail, snow, dust, leaves and bird drops away.
ULTCOVER provides 3 years warranty and guarantees to be 100% waterproof with seams taped, it’s a “WATERPROOF AND BREATHABLE†cover.
Well-made structured air vents at two sides stay open to prevent wind lofting. Heavy duty elastic cords allows adjustment for a tight and easier fit, especially during high winds and severe weather.
$234
I've had this spa cover for almost a month now. At the end of winter, when it was windy and rainy extremely strongly, my old spa cover was blown and torn.Since then, this Ultcover has remained firmly in place. With the 20" height in particular, the cinch cord and buckles prevent 50 mph winds from lifting the cover off or causing it to flap during windstorms. [After purchasing the Ultcover, I would never longer purchase anything shorter in height.]The water resistance layer will eventually fade in the summer sun, just like my previous cover did. That is unavoidable. But I'll put that to the test to see whether it can withstand the five-year guarantee period. In the event that some moisture does get beneath the cover, I do, however, keep a waterproof sheet underneath. Any wetness will be dried off by air flowing via the air vents.As a result, the cover will last longer after it has stopped being waterproof.
4.4/5
Quick-drying acrylic swimming pool paint.
Can be applied over most types of properly prepared existing pool paints.
Use with fresh or saltwater swimming pools.
Royal Blue Waterborne Acrylic emulsion swimming pool paint.
Ideal for bare concrete, marcite, gunite & other masonry.
Lasting color and protection.
$234
I completely renovated our in-ground concrete pool, which was almost 30 years old. It was in fairly bad state, as you can see in the images! A new plaster work was quoted to me for $12k–$15k, which is outside of our budget. I therefore chose to paint it. This is my account of my first experience painting a pool.Finding the well point was the first thing we did before entirely draining our pool because we live on the Georgia coast, directly at sea level. Ask the company that installed your in-ground pool if they installed a well point on your pool and, if so, where it is located, if you reside in a region with a high water table. When building the pool itself, any pool builder worth their salt would pre-install this well point for your pool.When the pool was empty, I hooked our old service pump to the well point and ran it continuously. It had a steady trickle of water and about every 90 seconds, big gusts of ground water would come up. If you don't do this, your pool could end up floating away!I rinsed the pool with muriatic acid, TSP, and a lot of water after it had been completely drained and pressure washed. The plaster had to be broken up and removed in order to create a sound surface since I discovered numerous de-laminated locations where it was simply crumbling or bubbling and coming off in sheets. In places where bare concrete was visible, we patched the area using a polymer-modified porcelain tile thinset after removing a significant amount of the plaster on the bottom. We simply left the rest alone. We swept the pool and prepared it for painting once all of the holes had been filled.As directed by the paint's directions, we dried our pool in the Georgia sun for two days straight before painting it. We looked at the weather forecast to make sure there wouldn't be any rain for at least 3 to 7 days. I discovered that the directions were accurate in this regard; our paint adhesion improved steadily over time.The first coat was applied, and we gave it four hours to dry. We did so even though the paint's instructions said NOT to apply paint in direct sunlight. The Georgia heat was really hot, yet the paint still applied well and dried well. We cleaned up after ourselves and called it a day after applying the second coat, which by the way goes on easier than the first coat. The Frog painters tape was then carefully peeled away from the tile line. At this point, the paint appeared to be acting like a cheap latex paint that would easily peel off the pool surface, but I persuaded myself that it simply needed a lot of "cure time" to properly cling to the concrete. And that was accurate! The parts where I thought it would peel after 7 days of suncuring are now stuck like glue and won't budge! Additionally, the seven days were long enough to accommodate the paint globs that dropped from the rollers but which I would not have cleaned up.To sum up, I would absolutely recommend and repurchase this paint because it is wonderful. It will look fantastic if you complete your preparation work and follow up with caution.We used 8.5 gallons of "Ocean Blue" aqueous paint to two-coat our 18' x 36' pool (around 25k gallons). We most likely spent $2k for all materials (including pool paint, tiles, thinset, grout, etc.).Ocean Blue Waterborne, Semi-Gloss Pool Paint, 1 Gallon, INSL-X WR102309A-01
4.4/5
Quick-drying acrylic swimming pool paint.
Use with fresh or saltwater swimming pools.
Can be applied over most types of properly prepared existing pool paints.
White Waterborne acrylic emulsion swimming pool paint.
Ideal for bare concrete, marcite, gunite & other masonry.
Lasting color and protection.
$234
I completely renovated our in-ground concrete pool, which was almost 30 years old. It was in fairly bad state, as you can see in the images! A new plaster work was quoted to me for $12k–$15k, which is outside of our budget. I therefore chose to paint it. This is my account of my first experience painting a pool.Finding the well point was the first thing we did before entirely draining our pool because we live on the Georgia coast, directly at sea level. Ask the company that installed your in-ground pool if they installed a well point on your pool and, if so, where it is located, if you reside in a region with a high water table. When building the pool itself, any pool builder worth their salt would pre-install this well point for your pool.When the pool was empty, I hooked our old service pump to the well point and ran it continuously. It had a steady trickle of water and about every 90 seconds, big gusts of ground water would come up. If you don't do this, your pool could end up floating away!I rinsed the pool with muriatic acid, TSP, and a lot of water after it had been completely drained and pressure washed. The plaster had to be broken up and removed in order to create a sound surface since I discovered numerous de-laminated locations where it was simply crumbling or bubbling and coming off in sheets. In places where bare concrete was visible, we patched the area using a polymer-modified porcelain tile thinset after removing a significant amount of the plaster on the bottom. We simply left the rest alone. We swept the pool and prepared it for painting once all of the holes had been filled.As directed by the paint's directions, we dried our pool in the Georgia sun for two days straight before painting it. We looked at the weather forecast to make sure there wouldn't be any rain for at least 3 to 7 days. I discovered that the directions were accurate in this regard; our paint adhesion improved steadily over time.The first coat was applied, and we gave it four hours to dry. We did so even though the paint's instructions said NOT to apply paint in direct sunlight. The Georgia heat was really hot, yet the paint still applied well and dried well. We cleaned up after ourselves and called it a day after applying the second coat, which by the way goes on easier than the first coat. The Frog painters tape was then carefully peeled away from the tile line. At this point, the paint appeared to be acting like a cheap latex paint that would easily peel off the pool surface, but I persuaded myself that it simply needed a lot of "cure time" to properly cling to the concrete. And that was accurate! The parts where I thought it would peel after 7 days of suncuring are now stuck like glue and won't budge! Additionally, the seven days were long enough to accommodate the paint globs that dropped from the rollers but which I would not have cleaned up.To sum up, I would absolutely recommend and repurchase this paint because it is wonderful. It will look fantastic if you complete your preparation work and follow up with caution.We used 8.5 gallons of "Ocean Blue" aqueous paint to two-coat our 18' x 36' pool (around 25k gallons). We most likely spent $2k for all materials (including pool paint, tiles, thinset, grout, etc.).Ocean Blue Waterborne, Semi-Gloss Pool Paint, 1 Gallon, INSL-X WR102309A-01
4.4/5
Ideal for bare concrete, marcite, gunite & other masonry.
Ocean Blue Waterborne acrylic emulsion swimming pool paint.
Use with fresh or saltwater swimming pools.
Lasting color and protection.
Quick-drying acrylic swimming pool paint.
Can be applied over most types of properly prepared existing pool paints.
$234
I completely renovated our in-ground concrete pool, which was almost 30 years old. It was in fairly bad state, as you can see in the images! A new plaster work was quoted to me for $12k–$15k, which is outside of our budget. I therefore chose to paint it. This is my account of my first experience painting a pool.Finding the well point was the first thing we did before entirely draining our pool because we live on the Georgia coast, directly at sea level. Ask the company that installed your in-ground pool if they installed a well point on your pool and, if so, where it is located, if you reside in a region with a high water table. When building the pool itself, any pool builder worth their salt would pre-install this well point for your pool.When the pool was empty, I hooked our old service pump to the well point and ran it continuously. It had a steady trickle of water and about every 90 seconds, big gusts of ground water would come up. If you don't do this, your pool could end up floating away!I rinsed the pool with muriatic acid, TSP, and a lot of water after it had been completely drained and pressure washed. The plaster had to be broken up and removed in order to create a sound surface since I discovered numerous de-laminated locations where it was simply crumbling or bubbling and coming off in sheets. In places where bare concrete was visible, we patched the area using a polymer-modified porcelain tile thinset after removing a significant amount of the plaster on the bottom. We simply left the rest alone. We swept the pool and prepared it for painting once all of the holes had been filled.As directed by the paint's directions, we dried our pool in the Georgia sun for two days straight before painting it. We looked at the weather forecast to make sure there wouldn't be any rain for at least 3 to 7 days. I discovered that the directions were accurate in this regard; our paint adhesion improved steadily over time.The first coat was applied, and we gave it four hours to dry. We did so even though the paint's instructions said NOT to apply paint in direct sunlight. The Georgia heat was really hot, yet the paint still applied well and dried well. We cleaned up after ourselves and called it a day after applying the second coat, which by the way goes on easier than the first coat. The Frog painters tape was then carefully peeled away from the tile line. At this point, the paint appeared to be acting like a cheap latex paint that would easily peel off the pool surface, but I persuaded myself that it simply needed a lot of "cure time" to properly cling to the concrete. And that was accurate! The parts where I thought it would peel after 7 days of suncuring are now stuck like glue and won't budge! Additionally, the seven days were long enough to accommodate the paint globs that dropped from the rollers but which I would not have cleaned up.To sum up, I would absolutely recommend and repurchase this paint because it is wonderful. It will look fantastic if you complete your preparation work and follow up with caution.We used 8.5 gallons of "Ocean Blue" aqueous paint to two-coat our 18' x 36' pool (around 25k gallons). We most likely spent $2k for all materials (including pool paint, tiles, thinset, grout, etc.).Ocean Blue Waterborne, Semi-Gloss Pool Paint, 1 Gallon, INSL-X WR102309A-01
4.2/5
Sand Buff color matches most brands of colored cements/sand textures.
Used with water and the liquid bonder.
$234
I bought this product to fix a 1'x3' portion of pool deck that had come loose from the concrete underneath. In accordance with the directions and several videos I discovered online, I removed the old, deteriorating parts, cleaned the concrete, and then applied the E-Z patch. I was able to precisely match the original section because it is a really good quality product. Although I could improve my technique, E Z Patch done an excellent job.
4.1/5
Specifically designed for underwater use and to be non toxic and fish and plant safe
Can be put into service in as little as 24 hours
Water proof formula suitable for use in a wide range of climatic environments from hot to freeze/thaw conditions
Self priming formula allows for reliable adhesion for a finished surface that is easy to maintain
Can be applied to any constructed surface made of wood metal or stone as well as most plastics and other coatings
$234
In our backyard, I have a kidney-shaped pond that has given me countless hours of repairing and cleaning work over the years. The harsh Michigan winters will eventually develop hairline fissures in the concrete walls where I live. They frequently show up in the same location. I've used silicone as well as Quickcrete and other repairing materials. All of them are not perfect. Therefore, each Spring I clean the pond, check for cracks that need to be repaired, fill the pond, and then watch it slowly drain away over the course of 3–4 days.We love our pond, so I made the decision to drain it this year so I could power wash it and find any new cracks that needed to be fixed. I believe I have located the main offender. This deep fissure was repaired at the intersection of the floor and the wall using Quickcrete, a quick-setting concrete mixture. To make the entire pond surface rough, I used a wire brush on a drill. I then used a muriatic acid solution to etch the pond's surface.I decided to try Pond Armor after finding it on Amazon. It is fairly pricey (explains the 1-star deduction). However, it had a good selection of colors. I choose gray. I used the guidelines for rough surfaces and adhered to them to the letter. For a before picture, see the first image.I purchased the 1-quart kit, which on Amazon does not specify the coverage. Fortunately for me, our pond's area, 60 sq ft, falls within the coverage rate. In order to paint the pond twice, I chose to divide the paint in half. That strategy, however, was unsuccessful since, like many others around here, the paint began to significantly thicken after about 20 minutes. When I used this (in the shade), the temperature was in the upper 70s, which may have had an impact. According to the instructions, use just enough for a 30-minute session. I therefore used the first half of the paint but was unable to cover about half of the pond with paint. I combined the second half and reduced it by adding a little more alcohol. Once more, I only had approximately 20 minutes to work with, but I still managed to finish covering the entire interior. View the second image. I allowed the paint to cure over night. We filled the pond today, and I will update this review if I discover any problems. I don't see how any water could penetrate through this coating, which dries to a shiny, hard, yet rubbery layer. I want to use silicone sealer to repair any hairline cracks that could appear throughout the winter.
3.8/5
Brand: Marlig Industries
Is Assembly Reqyuired: False
Country Of Origin: United States
Size: 8 oz
$234
I used this to our Dream Maker Odyssey spa, which is eight years old and started to lose two to three inches of water every five to six hours. It was quite likely that one or more of the jets was the source of a rather big leak after I investigated the pump, fittings, and hoses surrounding the motor and found no evidence of any leaks.I read several favorable reviews (as well as some unfavorable ones) and came to the same conclusion as most others that I should either try it out, shell out an unknown amount for an unnecessary service call, or convert the spa into a massive planter.There was no indication of any water level decline within a few hours after using Fix a Leak...After 24 hours, the water level was still the same. After three weeks of continuous heavy use, there has been no indication of any leaks or water loss other than usual and negligible evaporation.The 8 oz bottle held around 4 ounces for me, and application and cleanup were both simple. Although it's unfortunate that not everyone who used Fix a Leak experienced great success, I couldn't be happier with this solution and will have some on hand in case I need to reapply it.Just one more thing: Despite what some others have said, I did not empty the spa. Instead, I quickly scooped away the very little product residue that remained after application.I bring this up since it seems that a lot of people who did drain and refill their spas discovered that the leak had come back. Although this process is advised, it seems like it would place more strain on the seal—though I'm not sure why. In a few weeks, I'll drain and refill my spa, and if any issues or leaks recur, I'll let you know.A month or so after the initial application and writing of this evaluation, I completed a complete drain and re-fill. Still no leaks. fantastic stuffIn 2018, a few years after the initial review, I learned the spa was leaking once more. I poured the leftover Fix-a-Leak solution, and "bang," the leak was halted within a few minutes. Since we started utilizing the spa a few weeks ago, there have been no problems.
If you have a crack in your pool deck, you can fix it with a little bit of effort. First, you will need to clean the area around the crack. Next, you will need to apply a concrete patch to the crack. Once the patch is dry, you will need to sand it down so that it is level with the rest of the deck. Finally, you will need to apply a sealant to the area to prevent the crack from coming back.
If you have a cracked Kool deck, you will need to repair it as soon as possible. Cracks in your Kool deck can cause the deck to become unstable and dangerous. To fix a cracked Kool deck, you will need to use a patching kit. These kits are available at most hardware stores.
There are many ways to repair a pool deck. The most common and easiest way is to use a concrete resurfacer. This can be found at your local hardware store. You will also need a concrete sealer to protect the deck from future damage.
If your pool deck is starting to show its age, you can resurface it yourself to add a new layer of protection and give it a fresh look. First, clean the deck and repair any cracks or damage. Then, apply a concrete resurfacer to the deck, using a trowel to spread it evenly. Once the resurfacer is dry, you can add a new coat of paint or sealer.
Epoxy is a material that is used to coat the inside of pools. It can last for many years, but will eventually need to be replaced. The lifespan of epoxy will depend on how well the pool is maintained and how often it is used.
Kool deck is a type of concrete pool decking that is applied in a thin layer over regular concrete. It is usually textured and comes in a variety of colors. It is a popular choice for pool decks because it is cooler to the touch than regular concrete, and it is also slip-resistant. Kool deck typically needs to be reapplied every 3-5 years in order to maintain its appearance and protect the underlying concrete from weathering and wear.
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