Best Photographic Light Meter Color Calibration Charts in 2022

Last update: December 11, 2022

X-Rite ColorChecker Classic (MSCCC) Review:


I ought to have purchased this a long time ago. Simply purchase one if you don't already have one and are reading this. Next, you'll want something more portable, so like me, you'll buy the X-Rite MSCCPP ColorChecker Passport. You actually require both. Although the larger target is useful for inside and some outdoor shooting, the passport is much more portable. The Color Checker is reasonably priced and does the job as advertised. The customized Lightroom color profiles for each of my camera bodies are well worth the money, though it would be good if they were less expensive. I also delayed making this buy too long: Colorimeter Datacolor Spyder4Elite S4EL100 for Display Calibration If you haven't calibrated your display, there's basically no use in bothering about color management. I chose the Datacolor Spyder4Elite over the X-Rite ColorMunki or i1 Display Pro bundles after reading numerous reviews. The Spyder4Elite X-Rite color checkers combination has me very happy.



ColorChecker Passport Photo 2 (MSCCPP-B) Review:


I ought to have purchased this a long time ago. Simply purchase one if you don't already have one and are reading this. Next, you'll want something more portable, so like me, you'll buy the X-Rite MSCCPP ColorChecker Passport. You actually require both. Although the larger target is useful for inside and some outdoor shooting, the passport is much more portable. The Color Checker is reasonably priced and does the job as advertised. The customized Lightroom color profiles for each of my camera bodies are well worth the money, though it would be good if they were less expensive. I also delayed making this buy too long: Colorimeter Datacolor Spyder4Elite S4EL100 for Display Calibration If you haven't calibrated your display, there's basically no use in bothering about color management. I chose the Datacolor Spyder4Elite over the X-Rite ColorMunki or i1 Display Pro bundles after reading numerous reviews. The Spyder4Elite X-Rite color checkers combination has me very happy.



X-Rite ColorChecker Passport Video (MSCCPPVC) Review:


You are doing it incorrectly if you are not utilizing a color checker for reference.I'm not referring to utilizing it as a color picker, although that can be useful when comparing cameras. I'm referring to the time before your grade when you are color fixing.We all know that your scopes will be the best option unless you spend a fortune on the ideal display and calibrate it. I do not understand how someone who is serious about nailing photography can continue without anything like this, using this as a reference along with scopes and other tools we have available.It is disheartening to see this being done, as there are far too many YouTube videos that teach the incorrect thing. I like the X-Rite because of this. Let me explain.Since incorrect white balancing is frequently taught, collecting all the color data present at the time of recording depends entirely on doing it correctly. Particularly if you record in ProRes or RAW. Not only should the dynamic range be seen in the highlights and shadows, but also in the colors. This is not possible without properly white balancing first. Although I have used so-called "certified" white balance cards, the X-Rite has THE BEST white balance reference on the back that I have ever used. Simply use the white board to trim your video, increase the RGB values, and vector-scope to 2x (NOT SATURATION). Then adjust your warmth/cool and tint until the clipped white balance card appears as a dot in the exact center of your vector-scope (if you are shooting RAW). EVERY TIME, DONE, NAILED. Every time, the white balance in post is flawless and takes less than 30 seconds.The next thing I like to do is check my exposure using the X-front Rite's clip, much like I would with a scope. Ensure that the front of the board is illuminated by the scene, then adjust the highlights so that the white (highlights) in your waveform reads 95 IRE, the gamma so that the mid-tones (the second to last grey swatch) are roughly in the middle, and the shadows so that the blacks (shadows) in your waveform read right around 0 IRE. This manner, you can know you are where you should be and avoid over-boosting your highlights when you look at the scene with your talent and the highlights aren't hitting 95 IRE. Start your grade after adjusting the midtones to your taste. (I won't cut my blacks in my grade; I won't do color correction; I don't like crushing my blacks.) I almost always utilize my levels for exposure instead of adjusting exposure in the RAW file. However, I may lower the ISO (RAW adjustment alone) so I have a better starting point if I overexposed a scene significantly (which I frequently do when shooting RAW) (general crushed wave is in the center of the waveform scope).I apologize for turning this into a tutorial, but I truly believe that this is a priceless tool that is well worth the money given how quickly it can help you color-correct a scene and move on to the exciting parts.Any inquiries can be left in the comments section below.



Datacolor SCK200 SpyderCHECKR 24 Review:


I would want to provide an extra point of view for those of you who are browsing this site and are on the fence (like I was) because of some of the unfavorable reviews.1.) This gadget isn't constructed from cheap cardboard. It appears to be covered with some layer of plastic or vinyl, making it "tough enough" for the work even though it is not a hard solid plastic and is neither "cardboard" frail nor brittle. For storage and transportation, a plastic sleeve is included. This is a slight chance of getting bent if handled improperly, but as long as you take care to keep and move it carefully, you should be alright.2.) While $50 may seem excessive for a piece of colored plastic, I must remind you that you are paying for the color science as well as the substance that maintains accuracy of color despite glare and reflection. Although there are cheaper models available on eBay and Amazon that appear to achieve the same goal, you will discover that they are less accurate in some lighting conditions and DaVinci does not recognize these generic color checkers. The SpyderCHECKR, on the other hand, is the most affordable solution that appears to be software-recognized.3.) The second brand has a gorgeous case, but I don't think my needs justify spending more money on it. On the opposite side of the SpyderCHECKR is a white balance palette.I use the SpyerCheckR to compare cameras from various brands. I used my Canon T6s and my Lumix G7 to record a brief scene for my first test today. The method for creating 3D LUTS for each camera using Davinci Resolve and the SpyderCheckR pleased me greatly. To generate coordinating scenes, I used the LUTs in Lumetri and Premiere. The procedure was likewise quite simple.The outcome was a footage match that, in my opinion, is "near enough," and I am confident that my consumers would not notice the difference. Given my previous failures at manually matching cameras, I believe this small piece of plastic has improved both the quality of my production and the speed of my workflow. For anyone to review, I've attached my graded and ungraded tests.In conclusion, if you use a variety of camera brands, this is the least expensive equipment that has been approved by Davinci to guarantee that the colors in your images are consistent. This gadget comes highly recommended.(Just so you know, I wasn't compensated for this review or given a complimentary product; I bought this tool since I couldn't get the colors on my cameras to match.)



X-Rite i1Display Pro (EODIS3) Review:


All photographers who ever want to sell their images should have the X-Rite i1Display Pro. A calibrated screen is a need, and the i1 will accomplish it flawlessly. You don't have to be concerned about shifting lighting conditions in your home affecting how you edit your images thanks to its ambient light sensor. With active ambient light sensing, the gadget adapts your profile as the lighting in the space changes instantly. a significant advantage over less expensive options. The gadget will notify you when a re-calibration of your calibration is necessary at predefined intervals (recommended once a week). It is a well-made device that is simple to operate. If you use the provided software to see the photos, you can be sure that the images on your iPad are exactly what the client will see when they receive your finished work. You can also use it to color correct your IPAD.



Datacolor SpyderLensCal SLC100 Review:


When doing your tests, you must properly align your camera with the target for your focus calibration results to be reliable. That is made simple to achieve by the target's built-in level. The target is mounted on a tripod and leveled. After leveling the camera and setting it up on another tripod at the proper distance from the target, you should use the tripod's center column to vertically center the target in the camera's viewfinder. The camera can then be correctly aligned by being moved on its tripod to the right or left as necessary to remove any parallax, ensuring that it is pointing straight at the target in both the horizontal and vertical directions. This is done by using the parallax between the target's focus scale on the right and the main part of the target. All of this is considerably simpler to accomplish than it may seem, and you can quickly and properly line things up.Although you'll need to practice unfolding it a few times before you get the hang of it, the entire unit folds up flat for storage with ease.The only issue I have with the SpyderLensCal is that the primary portion of the target only includes those large squares to gauge how precisely your camera is focusing. While this gives your camera's autofocus sensor a decent target to lock onto, it would be simpler to determine by sight whether that focus was accurate in the photographs that resulted if that area of the target featured some finer characteristics, like resolution bars. To provide that kind of reference, I might attach one of those "USAF 1951" bar charts to that portion of the target. However, even if you don't take such action, you can still assess focus by observing the fine lines on the numerical focus scale on the right side.



Datacolor SpyderCheckr SCK100 Review:


Works Perfectly! This significantly reduces the amount of time spent editing. Even when utilizing the same camera body, the hue can vary greatly when using different cameras. Your photographs closely resemble one another when you create color-corrected presets for each one. Watching the videos on utilizing the device for the first time is highly advised ( its just easier). This is the first stage in color adjusting your images, and the second is editing them on a color calibrated display (a high-end monitor with 100% sRGB output and as near to 100% Adobe RGB output is helpful). Finally, either purchase Spyder prints and calibrate your printer or have your photographs printed at a lab.



X-Rite ColorMunki Display (CMUNDIS) Review:


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DGK Color Tools DKK 5" x 7" Set of 2 White Balance and Color Calibration Charts with 12% and 18% Gray - Includes Frame Stand and User Guide Review:


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LensAlign MkII Focus Calibration System Review:


For digital cameras with microfocus adjustments, the LensAlign Focus Calibration System (FCS) performs well. The fact that you'll also need a few tripods, a computer with web connectivity, a tape measure, and a copy of Photoshop is something you're not told.Once you get the hang of it, use is not difficult. Sadly, you will need to visit the Tapes website and conduct a search for usage guidelines. The product comes with nothing, which is a strange omission. You'll need to look around a bit even on Tapes' website to discover the step-by-step instructions. There are 28 items in his "knowledge base" under the help page, which is a little perplexing. The person you desire is [...]Here's a quick rundown of how it functions:(1) Put together the FCS.The FCS is delivered in a knockdown state with pieces made of tough plastic. Using the detailed instructions supplied, you can set it up in a few minutes. They are well-illustrated and of the insert-tab-A-in-slot-B variety. You'll be perplexed as to why it cost as much as it did considering that it is only made of a few hard plastic bits. The two main components are a focus target with a hole in it that, when aligned, shows a red dot behind it and a tilted ruler with calibration numbers extending forward and backward from the plane of the primary focus target. After installation, the solid structure and red dot guarantee that the ruler is precisely square to the area that your camera will be focussing on.(2) Calculate the necessary distance between your lens and the FCS to do the test.It depends on the camera sensor size, aperture, and focal length of the lens. The formula can be found on the website, but once you get there, Tapes offers a helpful calculator. With instance, this is 16.4 feet for a depth of field of /- 2 inches when using a 200mm f/2.8 lens with a full-frame camera like a Canon 5DM2. With the same camera and a 50mm f/1.2 lens, the depth of field should be /- 0.8 inches at 4.1 feet. You should be advised that very long or slow lenses might require Tapes' extra-long ruler as an accessory item for the FCS in order for their full depth of field to be displayed on the ruler. You are advised when this is necessary by the calculator. Although it isn't stated, I assume the distance is measured from the focal plane of the lens rather than the front of the camera.(3) Physically align your camera with the front of the FCS at the distance determined in step 2.The tiny red dot on the FCS's rear wall must be precisely in the middle and clearly visible through the opening in the FCS's front wall. This required numerous little adjustments to your camera's position and the FCS as well as numerous test photos. It takes some time to align your camera and lens(es) correctly before taking the test pictures. Your camera must be perfectly square to the front of the focus target; it cannot be too high, too low, or slanted to the left or right. A single tripod is required, and a second (in this case, a tabletop Gorilla-style tripod), is beneficial. However, if you own a camera that allows for focus calibration micro-adjustment and are thinking about buying this item, you almost definitely already have a reliable tripod. Magnification and live view both proved to be quite useful to me. In order for them to be seen in the test pictures, I also wrote the different lens, aperture, and distance settings on post-it notes.(4) Allow your camera to automatically focus on the FCS's primary target while keeping the ruler visible to the side. Take a practice shot. To reduce motion, it is advised to use a shutter release cable or time-delayed exposure.(5) Check the test shot to ensure that the focus is on the 0 and not behind or in front of the plane that the autofocus was aiming for. If so, you must change your camera's microfocus in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Tapes doesn't offer much advice regarding how much to change, but this depends on the camera and the results of the test. If you don't have Photoshop on available, Tapes advises using the "emboss" action in Photoshop to improve the clarity of the output, but I didn't think this was required.Consider spending 30 minutes on your first lens and 10 minutes on each additional lens. When you're through, you may disassemble the FCS for flat storage.The FCS might be somewhat useful to you if your camera doesn't have a microfocus adjustment. It might enable you to determine, for instance, whether a specific lens is back-focusing and demands calibration. You can also discover whether you should keep in mind to slightly focus in front of or behind a future subject while employing that lens. Of course, the FCS is most useful if your camera supports this kind of lens-specific microfocus adjustment.One star deducted since there is no usage guide (inexcusable in a product in this price range). The gadget works okay, but I'd deduct another half star if I could for the expensive cost of the few die-cut pieces of plastic. If it cost half as much, I'd like it. When I was holding it, I didn't think it should cost that much. Be advised that if you're calibrating exceptionally long or slow lenses, you might need to purchase the extra-long ruler as an accessory. Before you buy, check the website to determine if you'll need that for your camera and lens set.