Cobalt drill bits are made from a high-speed steel with 5 to 8 percent cobalt added. This is done to increase the hardness of the steel. The cobalt drill bits are used for drilling in hard metals such as stainless steel and cast iron, as well as in harder plastics.
Short drill bits are called stub bits. They are shorter than standard drill bits and have a smaller diameter. They are used for drilling smaller holes in hard materials such as metal.
There are five types of drill bits: 1. Standard drill bits are the most common type of drill bit. They are used for drilling into wood, metal, and plastic. 2. Brad point drill bits have a sharp point that helps to keep the bit from walking while drilling. They are used for drilling into wood. 3. Twist drill bits have a spiral flute that helps to remove the drill bit from the workpiece. They are used for drilling into metal and plastic. 4. Masonry drill bits have a carbide tip that is designed
There are a few factors that make a drill bit tough. Firstly, the material it is made from needs to be strong. Secondly, the bit needs to be able to withstand high temperatures and wear and tear. Finally, the bit needs to have a good design that can handle a lot of pressure.
4.7/5
Speed Tip Reduces Walking
Bit case may differ from what is shown
Includes tough case container to keep bits organized
Ideal for drilling in metal, wood, and plastics
Titanium Coating for Longer Life
No spin shanks
$234
The size array can handle 99% of your drilling requirements. Not the best quality, but by no means the worst. A titanium coating's performance depends on how long it lasts. Typically, this costs five times as much as HS Steel. Used them for some time and haven't even cracked them slightly yet. Excellent pieces for the money and a cute small case included...
4.6/5
PRECISION: The bit design features self centering to reduce bit walking and increase precision when drilling
CONVENIENT: The CC2430 bit set offers quick bit changes without re chucking or the need for tools
COMPATIBILTY: The drill bits have a ¼ inch hex shank and can be used with all of your ¼ inch drills regardless of make or model
EFFICIENT: With Bosch’s Clic Change bit design, the CC2430 bit set allows for quick bit changes and fast, one handed load and release
$234
I grew up in a cabinet shop, and as soon as I could walk, I was assisting my father. Here's how it works: I always began screws with a punch that was struck with a hammer. I learned to keep a bar of ivory soap in my tool belt from an old German carpenter who went through the guild system before to the Second World War. You make a hole in the butt's middle, lube the screws with soap to prevent face frames from splitting, and then start screwing. Prior to the widespread use of cordless drills, I used a Yankee screwdriver. I bought a cheap self-centering drill bit years ago and inserted it into my (at the time) sophisticated 14 volt cordless drill. The outcome was worse and took longer than when I used a hammer as usual. I therefore returned to the punch and disregarded the jeers from the other finish carpenters. I simply assumed that their contempt for my reliable Stanley punch sprang from the same ignorance that led them to enquire as to why I required a coping saw. Anyway, since then, a few presidents have taken office, and I truly enjoy using Bosch tools (I even purchase kitchen appliances made by this company), so I decided to give it another go. I've used these parts on maybe 200-300 hinges since I got them about a week ago. I have to admit that I am a convert. They are as simple to use as they are accurate. I have used them on a variety of doors, including hollow core and solid mahogany ones as well as cabinet doors. They are pointed and don't become clogged with dust. Of course, you could wing it, just like every painter does when they reinstall the doors. Your screws will all stick out past the face of the hinge at an odd angle, and your doors will all rub the stop in odd locations. However, that's how everyone else does them! Alternately, you might order these and pretend to be a real carpenter for a day.
4.6/5
Parabolic flute design for greater bit strength
The product is manufactured in China
135-degree split-point design reduces slip and walking
Easy to use
The product is 20PC BLK OX Bit Set
Includes tough case container to keep bits organized
Black oxide finish for greater wear protection
$234
I used them to drill both metal and wood. These are far more advantageous than the phony "titanium" parts.A hint: dip the drill bit's tip in old (or fresh) motor oil before drilling metal, set your drill to the "slow" mode, and drill SLOWLY. Don't rush, and re-dip your bit end in the engine oil every few minutes. If you do it that way, the bit will last for years without ever wearing out. Naturally, avoid putting a side load on it and drilling with too much pressure. As a result, if you use heavy motor oil (or cutting oil), drill slowly, and avoid using a side load, these bits will endure for many years.Make sure your name is on it, and if you're wise, don't lend out your bits until you're really certain of the person you're lending them to, as the majority of males have no idea how to handle these.
4.6/5
Surface hardened to penetrate tough abrasive materials
Available in jobber length, full shank
Withstands high-temperature applications for extended periods of time (up to 1,100 degreeF)
Rigid, thick web design adds stability to bit in tough applications
Best used for drilling into light-gauge metal, high-carbon steel, aluminum and ally steel, cast iron, stainless steel and titanium
$234
Two of these of various sizes were purchased for drilling stainless steel. I conducted a thorough search on the internet for tips on drilling stainless before coming across one post that made sense to me. According to the author, lubricating the drill bit with any kind of oil or lubricant is pointless when drilling stainless. The goal is to cut the stainless while preventing overheating of both the bit and the stainless. Only slippage is caused by lubricants. So, while drilling through the stainless steel surface, I piled washers and kept them full of water. The stainless steel was chilled by the water, preventing it from hardening before being cut. Also, drill carefully because heat builds up more quickly at higher rates. This method was used to drill numerous holes, and the bits held up. The Century bits I also bought performed worse than the Bosch bits.
4.4/5
Laser engraved numbers increases step visibility
Split point tip increases speed
Titanium two flute spiral design provides longer life and better chip removal
Optimized for impact driver usage
$234
These took the place of my Harbor Freight set, which I had broken when, of all things, drilling through a typical residential electrical junction box. Previously, there was a DeWalt Impact Ready step bit video on YouTube that demonstrated how easily they could drill through a quarter-inch plate. With a Bosch impact driver, I used one of them to cut through the steel frame of my pickup vehicle. As I was installing a trailer hitch, I had to drill a few sizable holes. Prior to utilizing this, I did as instructed by the installation instructions and drill the holes. That material was readily trimmed. I was astounded at how quickly it was completed. It's difficult; I've tried drilling frame steel with standard drill bits previously. The difficulty will force you to say "uncle."There are two improvements that the set could use, at least for me. A pouch to store them in would have been nice because the sizes are not very deeply carved and are therefore a little difficult to read.I'm happy to have these and wouldn't think twice about purchasing them again.
4.4/5
SHARPEN MULTIPLE TYPES OF DRILL BITS – high-speed steel, masonry, cobalt, & TiN-coated drill bits. Designed for the serious tool user, this professional, easy-to-use system makes it simple to keep a sharp, perfectly angled cutting edge on bits you use often
MANUFACTURED IN OREGON - we design, engineer, & assemble our sharpening machines all under one roof in the USA
EXTEND THE LIFE OF YOUR BITS – from 3/32-inch to ¾-inch, create & remove split points & adjustable material take-off allows you to adjust the amount of material removed during sharpening; 6 foot power cord. Permanent magnet motor produces consistent power, regardless of speed or load
3-YEAR WARRANTY - protects every Drill Doctor bit sharpener against defects due to workmanship or design, using a 115V machine in a location with 230V power sources voids the warranty
CUSTOM POINT ANGLE SHARPENING – set any angle from 115° to 140° with cast aluminum point angle shuttle for added durability, a unique BACK-CUT split-point bit an extra-narrow chisel point, making it faster to penetrate and less likely to wander on the material you are drilling in to
$234
I bought this for my own personal usage to sharpen drills at work or to bring home. I work as a CNC machinist, and we hardly ever sharpen tiny drills at work. I detest dropping used drills in the barrel of scrap steel. When used as directed, it works excellent for honing drills. It is a unit with finesse. It won't function if you turn the drill in an animal-like manner. I've already used it to sharpen almost a hundred drills. The split point isn't very good at it, to be honest. Particularly big drills To accomplish this correctly, a lot of finesse is required. When making a split point from scratch, the motor whirrs. even under minimal strain. It takes longer than it is worth. Since I don't have many split points, this doesn't bother me much. Since the diamond wheel is not very large, it is difficult to sharpen anything larger than a 1/2 inch drill. Any drill that is chipped or extremely dull gets sharpened as closely as possible on a bench grinder before being finished on the Darex. The larger drills put too much stress on the small motor and wheel, so if I had to buy again, I would choose the 500X. I'm glad I bought it. For me, it was a worthwhile investment. a huge help at home and at work.Vinny
4.3/5
Superior gold titanium and black nitride dual coating finish holds up lubricant better for smoother drilling, and is 80% more durable and corrosion resistant than regular black enamel finish
135° Split point design at tip increases cutting speed with self-centering feature and prevents drill walking or wobbling
1/2 Inch reduced shank with tri-flatted end locks onto 3-jaw power tools chuck more securely and eliminates slips
Set includes 8 pieces 6†long silver & deming drill bits in a heavy duty aluminum storage case for easy carrying and organization: 9/16â€, 5/8â€, 11/16â€, 3/4â€, 13/16â€, 7/8â€, 15/16â€, 1â€
Premium cobalt high speed steel construction for proven capability and durability to drill holes in wood, plastic, aluminum, copper, stainless, sheet metals and many other types of materials
$234
Would I have bought these drill bits in the first place if I could go back in time and start over?Of course I did, though! In fact, I purchased two sets of them, which was really perplexing because in the end, I obtained two sets of something that I had not "yet" realized I already owned!Without a doubt, you won't find a better set of HSS split-point drill bits anywhere else for the price than right here, around oh, 3 days ago, when I found myself clicking the "add to cart" button for a product that was already sent and sitting on the bench in front of me! (Don't ask; it relates to the dilemma of the time-traveling machine).But that is irrelevant at this point (Dad joke)But before we get into the quality of these parts and why you'll want to buy a set (or three) of them for your tiny home shop, let's look at some of the reasons why other Amazon customers might advise against buying them.Speaking to everyone who gives this product a negative review, I want to say that you have unreasonably high expectations. Didn't your father ever teach you that you get what you paid for and you can't get something for nothing?However, what you CAN acquire is a cute little set of fully-formed, HSS, split-point drill bits for next to nothing! These bits DO have a function, but it isn't "to replace the need to purchase a costly, heirloom-quality set of precision twist drills."You may expect to receive a set of reasonably precise, factory-formed, and sharpened twist drills for the unbelievable cheap price of this product, which will cut reasonably effectively through weaker metals.In soft metals like aluminum, brass, bronze, softer steels like free-machining steel (use cutting oil), etc., these bits WILL displace some chips and leave a reasonably shaped, somewhat clean hole.To remove the harsh "Burr" that was left behind by the highly high-speed production method utilized in the Chinese facility where these are created, I WOULD suggest running through the set with a fine hoan or possibly a set of increasingly finer oil stones. They are actually REALLY lovely bits once you "go-over" the flutes and the split points and spend some time decorating them up! With one exception: As long as you USE THEM REASONABLY and don't anticipate them to effortlessly chew through hardened tool steel to create precise holes! They neither promise nor are they designed for this. These aren't the kind of tools that were hand ground from the finest steel, with the strictest accuracy and highest level of precision, by a skilled artisan, therefore they won't be the ones you'll find at a swap meet in 40 years selling for $100 or more. They are inexpensive hole-makers that are intended to be mounted in a tailstock lathe chuck and slowly core their way through chunks of aluminum when the accuracy of the final hole is not important. If you're like me, however, you care about accuracy, and the holes you make will almost always be "finished" by me using a boring bar or hoan, which will bring the slightly "mucky" hole made by these bits up to a precision hole with a smooth, round surface.As long as you take your time, use a slow rotation speed, add plenty of coolant and lubricant, and stop occasionally to clear your chips (peck drill), these bits will remove a lot of material in a reasonable amount of time, which is why I like using them and why I say that they DO have a place in.. even high-end machine shops.I don't know what you thought you were getting for the price you're paying for these bits if you don't think you should have to clean up each bit by hand right out of the box. I feel like I should have paid the asking price just to SHIP this much steel all the way from China, and if I were to purchase a similar quality set of bits at ANY local retail store, I know that I'd be looking at paying between 2x and 3x as much, and even at that price,Therefore, I FULLY anticipated needing to use the hand stone when purchasing them at this price. This is FINE with me because I value paying so much less for a basic set of HSS split point bits. At least now I won't feel guilty if/when I break, bend, or lose one. I also won't feel awful when my neighbor invariably says, "hey, you mind?" As you can imagine, it's a LOT easier to just lend him something cheap, knowing he'll break it, than it is to have to try to explain to a non-machinist why he can't use one of your "good" drill bits, which cost $20-$50 EACH, for him to use. If I borrow a 15/16" drill bit, I can hand him one of these, knowing FULL well that I'm going to have to run it up against the bench grinder when When he finally stops, he will declare, "Man, this drill bit is a POS," at which point he will hopefully give up and return your drill bit, telling you that "it worked." The sequel that is emanating from the tip of the borrowed bit is actually the tool itself, screaming in agony for him to STOP. But he won't, he will continue to push even harder. He will tilt his drill around in a circular motion. Thank you again, and now you may return to the bench grinder with your battered twist drill and spend some time bringing it back to life. If, however, he is like MY neighbor, he would pause and add, "geeze, your drill bit was pretty dull, and my uncle once told me that a dull drill bit is a hazardous one, so.. I watched a few YouTube videos and I sharpened it up for you!"In either case, you shouldn't try to drill precise holes in hardened steel using cheap drill bits or lend your neighbor an expensive drill bit.You'll need to find a great, affordable set of mass-produced HSS split point twist drills for both situations, and THAT is what you get when you purchase a set of these.Expect them to be a little "rough" around the edges and to need a little TLC, such as a tiny bit of hand sharpening or touch-up before you use them, much like anything that is INCREDIBLY cheap (small price to pay for such great savings)..Finally, be prepared to drill into softer metals exclusively, proceed a little slower, and apply a little lubricant. If you do this, you will end up liking these bits for a very long time!Thank you for viewing!-That's "not young." Tony
4.2/5
1) One drill bit replaces two drill bits (1x glass & tile drill bit + 1x Mansonry drill bit), ideal for drilling fastner holes in bathroom tiles, or wall mirrors. Once it drills through the tile or mirror this drill bit will cope easily with any masonry behind it
4) U type slot design with fast drilling dust remove, 3-flats shank allows drill bit to be held tightly and stably in power drill. When drilling hard material (glass, porcelain floor tile, marble or granite), please use water for lubrication
2) Spear pointed design strong tungsten carbide tip can easily penetrate various material(tile, concrete, brick, glass, plastic and wood,etc) and reduces breakout
3) 5 Pcs drill bit set with 4 different sizes: 2x 6mm(1/4"), 1x 8mm(5/16"), 1x 10mm(3/8"), 1x 12mm(1/2")
5) Heavy duty drill bits made by factory that manufactures products for big international tool brands with guaranteed quality. For genuine multi-material drill bit, please identify QWORK brand drill bits packed in sealed transparent plastic box with two sides of blue color stickers
$234
Just everything I needed for less than the retail prices for a single drill bit. This sliced through the tiling like butter on a hot knife. Not THAT simple, but it was still incredible. To "keep" the bit from slipping, I applied painters tape while moving very slowly. I finally got a lovely small imprint after a few revolutions. I descended a little further before switching to a masonry bit that was more appropriate for my use. But this accomplished precisely what I needed it to. Very pleased with this purchase. Due to a lack of water, I had to stop drilling every few seconds to blow the bit's tip and hole and let it cool before continuing.
4.1/5
Imported
This 10-piece Drill Bit Set contains the most popular range of drill bits - sizes 1/16-in to 1/4-in
These accessories should be used with a drill with a 3/8" chuck.
N/A
Comes with a handy bit bar that makes storing this set in any toolbox, pocket or kitchen drawer easy
$234
I have three or four sets of huge bits that are all lacking little bits that have broken over time. I really appreciate finding a bundle of small parts like this for such a low price (I spent $3.88), as individual small bits are typically pricey (unless you want a dozen of the same size). These universal (metal or wood) bits are for holes ranging in size from 1/16" to 1/4." They are NOT intended for masonry or other uses. In soft gypsum wallboard, holes can be drilled, but doing so quickly wears down the drill bits. Masonry bits and, ideally, a power hammer drill are required for work with brick, masonry, tile, concrete, etc.SUGGESTIONS > TO REDUCE BREAKAGE: A drop of oil should always remain in the hole while drilling through thick metal. Oil makes cutting easier and also keeps the bit cool (which is important). If drilling deep holes in metal or even hard wood, drill a small amount at a time, pull back for a short period of time to clean the hole of debris, drill a small amount more, pull back, drill a small amount more, etc. If the drill bit seems to be getting hot, simply remove it from the hole and give it a moment to cool. You might also drip some oil on the bit to help it cool. When testing the temperature of a drill bit, use caution because a hot drill bit can result in severe burns. Using water to cool a heated piece could cause it to cool too quickly and become too brittle. When using little bits, let the drill bit do the cutting—DO NOT PRESS HARD. In reality, there are situations when you need to pull back to prevent a sharp bit from cutting too quickly (and jamming). If your power drill has a variable speed, drilling at a speed that is far lower than the maximum will provide you more control, especially when drilling wood. When drilling metal, the drill bit will operate more efficiently at speeds below maximum. Consider purchasing a larger drill set (with drill bits up to about 1/2") if you are purchasing your first bit set to use with your first power drill. Although larger drill sets only cost a few dollars more, a drill larger than 1/4 is very unlikely to ever shatter or become dull. The lesser sizes (i.e., drill bits under 1/4") will eventually break, and you'll need a set like this B
4.1/5
Versatile tool is ideal for drilling in metal, wood, plastic, PVC and other different materials
Great for general purpose use on hand drills and allows you to access hard to reach areas where jobber length drills can not go
Includes a full set of standard sizes to meet every job’s need: 1/8 inch, 3/16 inch, 1/4 inch, 5/16 inch, 3/8 inch
High speed steel construction is designed for durability and extended tool life
Extra long 12 inch body provides better stability and balance during quick operation to ensure position is intact
$234
This is not a professional-grade item; rather, it is intended for the homeowner who occasionally requires a much longer drill and can use it with extreme caution. For the price, they do an excellent job of satisfying this need. Applying too much pressure to them will cause them to bend. Instead, let the drill do the work, and if the sawdust is not properly departing the hole, pull the pieces out and discharge the sawdust as soon as they begin to slow down. In any case, the product is excellent value for the money, but use caution.
There are many types of jobbers, but the most common are independent jobbers and exclusive jobbers. Independent jobbers are businesses that are not affiliated with any one company and sell products from multiple companies. Exclusive jobbers are businesses that are affiliated with one company and only sell that company's products. There are also jobbers that specialize in selling only to certain industries, such as the automotive industry.
A jobber drill bit is a type of drill bit that is designed for use with a portable drill. It is usually about the same length as a screwdriver bit and has a tapered, cylindrical shank that is used to hold the bit in the chuck of a drill. The cutting edge of the jobber drill bit is tapered, which allows it to drill a hole that is slightly larger at the bottom than at the top. This type of drill bit is used for drilling holes in wood, plastic, and metal.
The type of drill bit you need depends on the type of stainless steel you are drilling. If you are drilling a softer type of stainless steel, then a standard high-speed steel (HSS) twist drill bit will do the trick. If you are drilling a harder type of stainless steel, then you will need a cobalt or carbide drill bit.
There is no definitive answer when it comes to which type of drill bit stays sharp the longest. However, some materials are more durable than others and can withstand more wear and tear. For instance, carbide-tipped drill bits are often used for drilling through tough metals and are known for their longevity. Similarly, diamond-tipped drill bits are also very durable and can last a long time if used correctly. Ultimately, it is important to choose a drill bit that is appropriate for the material you will be drilling into, as this will help to ensure a long lifespan.
A jobber drill bit is made of a variety of materials, depending on the manufacturer. The most common materials used are high speed steel (HSS), cobalt steel, and carbide.
A jobber straight shank is a drill bit that is used for drilling holes in metal. It is a type of drill bit that is used for drilling holes in metal. It is made of high speed steel and has a straight shank.
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