A multimeter is a versatile tool that can measure a wide variety of electrical properties. One of these properties is insulation resistance. Insulation resistance is a measure of how well a material resists the flow of electricity. The higher the insulation resistance, the better the material is at preventing the flow of electricity.
To measure insulation resistance, you need an insulation resistance tester. This is a device that applies a voltage to the insulation and measures the current flowing through it. The higher the resistance, the better the insulation.
There are many factors which can affect the insulation resistance of a material. Some of these are the thickness of the insulation, the type of material used, the presence of moisture, and the temperature.
4.6/5
20-volt to 90-volt AC control circuit model also available
Voltbeat technology and continuous self-test - so you always know it is working
Range 90-volt to 1000-volt
CAT IV 1000 V for added protection
Upon detection, tip glows and beeper sounds
$234
Every noncontact voltage detector is a trade-off. You can purchase one with a very small range that is still discriminating enough to prevent erroneous readings. One that is sensitive is available, however incorrect readings become an issue. additionally, one with configurable sensitivity is available, although it is complicated and unclear. All three of these options are offered on the market from reliable manufacturers because none of them is obviously superior to the others.The Fluke is under category 1. It is not adjustable, nor does it display the signal strength in a bar graph. It has a low sensitivity for discrimination. It must be touching or very close to touching the wire, and it must be on the same _side_ of the cable as the live conductor, not the neutral or ground, in order to detect voltage. When you pull it away from the cable, it takes a few seconds to alert and a few seconds to turn off again. It only does this, and it does it consistently. You shouldn't waste your time trying to find a cable inside a wall or a conduit since it won't happen.I tried both the Klein NCVT2 and NCVT3 before purchasing the Fluke. Simply by holding them in one hand and moving my other hand toward the tip, I was able to have both of them create false warnings, and I rejected them for that reason. However, given they appear to be the best models from the "high sensitivity" class, I advise looking at those models if you require more sensitivity for situations that the Fluke will not handle. Look at the Sperry adjustable model if you want the adjustable type.Some people seem to be upset that the Fluke won't recognize a live outlet (the tip is too fat to fit in the slot). That's accurate. Testing an outlet is the simplest task in the world using a plug-in tester, and I would always choose it over a non-contact tester because it is also more dependable. I think this is a fair trade-off. It doesn't seem worth it to me to sacrifice other elements of the design in order to accommodate that use case because you don't _need_ a non-contact tester for an outlet.Additionally, keep in mind that all the various models have been grouped together as you read these reviews. If there are reviews for a certain model you genuinely want, you might wish to filter them out.
4.6/5
Voltbeat technology and continuous self test so you always know it is working
NEW! Always on, using special low power circuitry
Upon detection, tip glows and beeper sounds
NEW! Innovative ‘Battery Check’ button function
Voltage detection from 90 to 1000 V ac
20 volt to 90 volt AC control circuit model also available
Voltbeat technology and continuous self test so you always know its working
$234
Every noncontact voltage detector is a trade-off. You can purchase one with a very small range that is still discriminating enough to prevent erroneous readings. One that is sensitive is available, however incorrect readings become an issue. additionally, one with configurable sensitivity is available, although it is complicated and unclear. All three of these options are offered on the market from reliable manufacturers because none of them is obviously superior to the others.The Fluke is under category 1. It is not adjustable, nor does it display the signal strength in a bar graph. It has a low sensitivity for discrimination. It must be touching or very close to touching the wire, and it must be on the same _side_ of the cable as the live conductor, not the neutral or ground, in order to detect voltage. When you pull it away from the cable, it takes a few seconds to alert and a few seconds to turn off again. It only does this, and it does it consistently. You shouldn't waste your time trying to find a cable inside a wall or a conduit since it won't happen.I tried both the Klein NCVT2 and NCVT3 before purchasing the Fluke. Simply by holding them in one hand and moving my other hand toward the tip, I was able to have both of them create false warnings, and I rejected them for that reason. However, given they appear to be the best models from the "high sensitivity" class, I advise looking at those models if you require more sensitivity for situations that the Fluke will not handle. Look at the Sperry adjustable model if you want the adjustable type.Some people seem to be upset that the Fluke won't recognize a live outlet (the tip is too fat to fit in the slot). That's accurate. Testing an outlet is the simplest task in the world using a plug-in tester, and I would always choose it over a non-contact tester because it is also more dependable. I think this is a fair trade-off. It doesn't seem worth it to me to sacrifice other elements of the design in order to accommodate that use case because you don't _need_ a non-contact tester for an outlet.Additionally, keep in mind that all the various models have been grouped together as you read these reviews. If there are reviews for a certain model you genuinely want, you might wish to filter them out.
4.6/5
Pocket sized, pen style low voltage detector that quickly tests for energized circuits in the home or workplace
Continuous self test
Volt beat technology
Safety rating of 1000V Category IV, meets IEC 61010 1:2001, UL 61010 1 (2nd ed.), CAN/CSA C22.2 No. 61010 1 04, and ISA 82.02.01 Pollution Degree 2
Tip glows red, and the detector beeps (optional), if voltage is present
Non contact detector senses the steady state electrostatic ï¬eld produced by AC voltage through insulation
Detects 20 to 90 VAC
$234
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4.6/5
Safety rating of 1000V Category IV, meets IEC 61010-1:2001, UL 61010-1 (2nd ed.), CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 61010-1-04, and ISA-82.02.01 Pollution Degree 2
Tip glows red, and the detector beeps (optional), if voltage is present
Non-contact detector senses the steady state electrostatic ï¬eld produced by AC voltage through insulation
Upon detection, tip glows and beeper sounds
Detects 90 to 1,000V
Voltbeat technology and continuous self-test - so you always know it is working
Pocket-sized voltage detector that quickly tests for energized circuits in the home or workplace
$234
All noncontact voltage detectors are a compromise. You can get one which is discriminating enough to avoid false readings, but then it will have a very short range. You can get one that is sensitive, but then false readings are a problem. and you can get one with variable sensitivity, but then it becomes fiddly and ambiguous. Since none of these choices is clearly better than the others, all three types are available on the market from reputable manufacturers.The Fluke is in the 1st category. It is not adjustable and it does not give you a bar graph signal strength reading. It is discriminating with low sensitivity. In order to detect voltage, it has to be touching or very nearly touching the cable, and it has to be on the same _side_ of the cable as the live conductor, not the neutral or ground. It takes a couple of seconds to alert, and a couple of seconds to shut off again when you move it away from the cable. This is all it does, and it does it reliably. Forget about detecting a cable in a wall or inside conduit; it's not gonna happen and you'll know not to waste your time trying.Before buying the Fluke, I tried the Klein NCVT2 and NCVT3. I was able to make both of them generate false alerts simply by holding them in one hand and moving my other hand near the tip, and I rejected them for that reason. However, if you need higher sensitivity for applications that the Fluke will not cover, I suggest looking at those models, as they seem to be the highest quality from the "high sensitivity" class. For the adjustable type, look at the Sperry adjustable model.I saw some complaints that the Fluke won't detect a live outlet (the tip is too fat to fit in the slot) (the tip is too fat to fit in the slot). This is true. I consider this an acceptable trade-off: testing an outlet is the easiest thing in the world with a plug-in tester, and I would always prefer that to non-contact tester because it is also more reliable. Since you don't _need_ a non-contact tester for an outlet, I think it is not worth compromising other aspects of the design in order to support that use case.Also, be advised as you read these reviews that all the different models are lumped together. You may want to filter reviews for the specific model that you actually want.
4.6/5
Pocket-sized, pen-style voltage detector that tests for energized circuits and defective grounds
Tip glows red, and the detector beeps (optional), if voltage is present
Category IV 1000V rating, and meets IEC 61010-1:2001, UL 61010-1 (2nd ed.), CAN/CSA-C22.2 No. 61010-1-04, and ISA-82.02.01 Pollution Degree 2
Non-contact detector senses the steady state electrostatic ï¬eld produced by AC voltage through insulation
Detects 90 to 1,000VAC
$234
Every noncontact voltage detector is a trade-off. You can purchase one with a very small range that is still discriminating enough to prevent erroneous readings. One that is sensitive is available, however incorrect readings become an issue. additionally, one with configurable sensitivity is available, although it is complicated and unclear. All three of these options are offered on the market from reliable manufacturers because none of them is obviously superior to the others.The Fluke is under category 1. It is not adjustable, nor does it display the signal strength in a bar graph. It has a low sensitivity for discrimination. It must be touching or very close to touching the wire, and it must be on the same _side_ of the cable as the live conductor, not the neutral or ground, in order to detect voltage. When you pull it away from the cable, it takes a few seconds to alert and a few seconds to turn off again. It only does this, and it does it consistently. You shouldn't waste your time trying to find a cable inside a wall or a conduit since it won't happen.I tried both the Klein NCVT2 and NCVT3 before purchasing the Fluke. Simply by holding them in one hand and moving my other hand toward the tip, I was able to have both of them create false warnings, and I rejected them for that reason. However, given they appear to be the best models from the "high sensitivity" class, I advise looking at those models if you require more sensitivity for situations that the Fluke will not handle. Look at the Sperry adjustable model if you want the adjustable type.Some people seem to be upset that the Fluke won't recognize a live outlet (the tip is too fat to fit in the slot). That's accurate. Testing an outlet is the simplest task in the world using a plug-in tester, and I would always choose it over a non-contact tester because it is also more dependable. I think this is a fair trade-off. It doesn't seem worth it to me to sacrifice other elements of the design in order to accommodate that use case because you don't _need_ a non-contact tester for an outlet.Additionally, keep in mind that all the various models have been grouped together as you read these reviews. If there are reviews for a certain model you genuinely want, you might wish to filter them out.
4.4/5
$234
It's absurd that tile stores like Floor and Decor, which sell a lot of Schluter heating cable, don't stock these. I had the entire reel inspected at a motor repair facility, but once it was installed, I only needed to check it. I tested it once more now that Tile has covered the most of it. Be cautious when using trowels—don't lay them on top of your 5 gal bucket—as it appears that walking on it when it has a muddy floor or dropping your trowel provide the greatest risk of harm. My reliable fluke measured both 500 and 1000 volts with accuracy of one decimal place.
4.3/5
$234
fantastic value for the money. I megg out motors frequently as part of my profession in commercial and industrial A/C.I tested it with a $1500 AEMC unit and it worked just well, so this stuff is reasonably accurate. On equipment with more horsepower than 25hp, I wouldn't advise it. Simply said, it isn't accurate enough to maintain a trending log.However, it works fantastically for small compressors, blower motors, etc. The wiring inside units can also be tested for those "intermittent" electrical problems we love to encounter.The leads are also way too brief.
4.2/5
$234
The good news is that it functions and is generally accurate. Given the cost and the specifications, I would say surprisingly accurate.Given the rated tolerance of the resistor and the accuracy of the meter, I tested it with a known 1 Gohm resistor, and the measurement was within the predicted range. The voltage at the probes (measured with a meter that was reasonably well calibrated) was within my meter's tolerance and the expected value. Once more, the AC voltage value is pretty near to what my dependable Fluke indicates.Since detecting whether there is an insulation failure is the primary goal and pinpointing the exact amount is secondary, I have no issues about precision at all.But it moves incredibly slowly. Even the free meters from a particular location receive a stable reading in less 1 second, although it takes more than 5 seconds to obtain an AC reading. The reading takes a very long time to stabilize in the resistance range as well.The absence of a storage location for the probes is the other "what were they thinking?" problem. The device does include a cover and a carrying strap, but there isn't a place to store the probes. Why?I'd give it a 4 out of 5 overall, largely because of the slow reading and the lack of probe storage.
4.2/5
Meets EN safety standards 61010 to 1 and 61557, and is rated for CAT IV installations to 600V and CAT III installations to 1,000V
Automatically calculates PI and DAR for a detailed indication of insulation condition
Performs timed tests up to 99 minutes, and stores up to 99 test results which can be uploaded to a PC
High voltage digital megohmmeter has preset and adjustable test voltages for measuring insulation resistance, and also measures leakage current to 2 milliamperes (mA) and capacitance to 20 microfarads
Measures voltage to 600V and signals when a voltage greater than 30V is detected
$234
Finding the appropriate instrument for the job is not always simple for me as a retired Industrial Electrician. I've used all of Fluke's tools before, and they are all the best available. This product is not an exception. For all currently employed and retired electricians, I heartily suggest this. If you lack the necessary education and experience, you will run into difficulties. This is a more affordable but equally effective option to utilise if you need a megger but the job isn't too big. The item is very affordable.
4.1/5
High-quality insulation tester, shipped from the United States, completed by Amazon. Functions: test high voltage, insulation resistance, AC voltage, data retention, low power hint, backlight lighting, high voltage hint, etc.
SAFETY PROTECTION: IEC 61010-1 & CATIV 600V / CATIII 1000V overload protection on all ranges. 1 year warranty
Insulation Resistance: 0.1M～200GΩ
Testing Voltage: 500V/1000V/2500V/5000V
BATTERY INCLUDED - Contain 6 pre-installed 1.5V (AA) Battery
$234
purchased as proof that a heated bathroom floor should be installed. Testing carried out before and after installation using a meg-ohmmeter is a requirement for Schluter's warranty coverage. Additionally, a normal DMM is unable to create the necessary 1000v or measure gigaohms (Schluter requirement).It seems like this gadget is well-made. The removable shock-resistance case for the meter has some level of protection built in. There were also test leads, batteries, instructions, and a basic carrying case. Overall, it seems to offer outstanding value for the money. It accomplished its objective by showing that during the installation of heated tile floors, none of the heating wire wiring (encased under thin-set beneath tile) was compromised.I cannot attest for its accuracy because I lack the required meg-gig ohm resisters, which is the reason for the three-star accuracy rating. I also didn't test the accuracy of its high-voltage measurement.
There are several types of insulation resistance. The most common is conductive insulation, which is used to resist the flow of electricity. Other types include dielectric insulation, which is used to prevent the flow of heat, and magnetic insulation, which is used to prevent the flow of magnetic fields.
There are several factors that can cause low insulation resistance. One is the age of the insulation. Over time, the insulation material can degrade, allowing electricity to pass through it more easily. Another factor is the presence of moisture. Moisture can seep into the insulation and cause it to break down. Finally, if the insulation is not thick enough, it will not be able to resist the flow of electricity as well.
There are a few reasons that may lead to low Megger readings. One possibility is that the insulation of the wire being tested has degraded and is no longer able to properly hold a charge. Another possibility is that there is moisture present in the wire, which can lead to a false reading. Lastly, if the wire is not properly grounded, this can also lead to a low Megger reading.
A megger reading is a measure of an electrical conductor's ability to resist an electrical current. The higher the megger reading, the greater the conductor's resistance. This resistance is important in determining the conductor's ability to safely carry electrical current.
If insulation resistance is low, it means that there is less resistance to the flow of electricity through the insulation. This can cause problems with electrical equipment and devices, and can also be a fire hazard.
A megger test is used to measure the insulation resistance of a material. The results of a megger test are typically given in megohms (MΩ). The higher the megohm reading, the better the insulation resistance of the material.
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