Best Household Countertop & Tile Paint in 2022

Last update: November 28, 2022

Are peel and stick countertops good?

Peel and stick countertops are a popular and affordable option for many homeowners. While they are not as durable as some other countertop materials, they are easy to install and can be a great way to update your kitchen or bathroom. Peel and stick countertops come in a variety of colors and styles, so you can find an option that fits your home’s décor.

Can you paint and seal a countertop?

Yes, you can paint and seal a countertop. First, you will need to clean the countertop thoroughly. Next, you will need to sand the surface of the countertop to create a smooth surface. Then, you will need to apply a primer to the countertop. Finally, you will need to paint the countertop with a high-quality paint. Once the paint is dry, you will need to apply a sealer to the countertop to protect it from stains and scratches.

Can you use interior paint on countertops?

If you want to paint your countertops but are unsure about using interior paint, know that you can use it but there are a few things you should keep in mind. For one, make sure the paint you select is durable and can withstand heat and water. You'll also want to use a primer and sealer to help the paint adhere to the countertop and protect it from wear and tear.

Can you use peel and stick tiles on countertops?

Yes, you can use peel and stick tiles on countertops. However, it is important to make sure that the surface is clean and free of any grease or oil before applying the tiles. Additionally, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully to ensure that the tiles adhere properly.


Giani Countertop Paint Kit, Bombay Black Review:


I made the decision to do this for our laminate kitchen countertops after reading numerous reviews from Home Depot, Lowe's, and Amazon. The outcome using the basic kit is satisfactory. The outcome, however, is AMAZING when using an epoxy resin glaze in place of the Giani Top Coat.The top coat finish that comes with the kit isn't something I particularly like. It looked alright when we tried it out on some of the back splash. However, I read a review on Amazon where the customer used an epoxy/resin glaze in place of the top coat that was provided.LET ME BE CLEAR: It improves by a factor of ten! People who have visited our home immediately assume that we have granite countertops. The glaze is very thick, enhancing the granite look by making the colors more vivid and adding a small amount of magnification. However, there are some warnings with the use of epoxy/resin:As the resin will unavoidably fall over the edges of your counters, be ready to tape everything off because it will be messy.It only functions on flat surfaces; if the edge of your countertop has a "lip," the epoxy won't cover it because of how self-leveling it is. For the epoxy to properly settle, I had to remove some of the countertop lip with a wood planer and sander. Additionally, neither the side borders nor the back splash will have a good covering (it will develop runs). For any vertical surfaces, I advise using Giani's top coat, and for the top, FAMOWOOD epoxy/resin glaze.Be willing to take chances because you can seriously mess up your countertops. But in my opinion, this is wholly worthwhile. Once applied, this is very thick and difficult to remove with sanding. To get back to your original countertops, you actually do need a chisel and sander. You really need to make sure you work swiftly and that you have complete covering with a 15-20 minute cure time. The instructions suggest using a squeegee or trowel, but I've found that using your two hands while wearing nitrile or latex gloves works the best. You can feel the places that haven't been covered thanks to this.One thing I observed is that occasionally, as the glaze dries, it will pull away from certain regions, leaving areas that resemble tiny holes. You should be alright as long as you don't skip on applying the glaze.To remove bubbles after applying the glaze coat, you'll also need another specialist tool, such as a butane lighter or heat gun.Try the epoxy glaze if you have the desire and want spectacular results; you won't be sorry. My photographs, I believe, are evidence of this.



Giani Countertop Paint Kit, Sicilian Sand Review:


I made the decision to do this for our laminate kitchen countertops after reading numerous reviews from Home Depot, Lowe's, and Amazon. The outcome using the basic kit is satisfactory. The outcome, however, is AMAZING when using an epoxy resin glaze in place of the Giani Top Coat.The top coat finish that comes with the kit isn't something I particularly like. It looked alright when we tried it out on some of the back splash. However, I read a review on Amazon where the customer used an epoxy/resin glaze in place of the top coat that was provided.LET ME BE CLEAR: It improves by a factor of ten! People who have visited our home immediately assume that we have granite countertops. The glaze is very thick, enhancing the granite look by making the colors more vivid and adding a small amount of magnification. However, there are some warnings with the use of epoxy/resin:As the resin will unavoidably fall over the edges of your counters, be ready to tape everything off because it will be messy.It only functions on flat surfaces; if the edge of your countertop has a "lip," the epoxy won't cover it because of how self-leveling it is. For the epoxy to properly settle, I had to remove some of the countertop lip with a wood planer and sander. Additionally, neither the side borders nor the back splash will have a good covering (it will develop runs). For any vertical surfaces, I advise using Giani's top coat, and for the top, FAMOWOOD epoxy/resin glaze.Be willing to take chances because you can seriously mess up your countertops. But in my opinion, this is wholly worthwhile. Once applied, this is very thick and difficult to remove with sanding. To get back to your original countertops, you actually do need a chisel and sander. You really need to make sure you work swiftly and that you have complete covering with a 15-20 minute cure time. The instructions suggest using a squeegee or trowel, but I've found that using your two hands while wearing nitrile or latex gloves works the best. You can feel the places that haven't been covered thanks to this.One thing I observed is that occasionally, as the glaze dries, it will pull away from certain regions, leaving areas that resemble tiny holes. You should be alright as long as you don't skip on applying the glaze.To remove bubbles after applying the glaze coat, you'll also need another specialist tool, such as a butane lighter or heat gun.Try the epoxy glaze if you have the desire and want spectacular results; you won't be sorry. My photographs, I believe, are evidence of this.



Giani Granite Countertop Paint Kit, Slate Review:


I made the decision to do this for our laminate kitchen countertops after reading numerous reviews from Home Depot, Lowe's, and Amazon. The outcome using the basic kit is satisfactory. The outcome, however, is AMAZING when using an epoxy resin glaze in place of the Giani Top Coat.The top coat finish that comes with the kit isn't something I particularly like. It looked alright when we tried it out on some of the back splash. However, I read a review on Amazon where the customer used an epoxy/resin glaze in place of the top coat that was provided.LET ME BE CLEAR: It improves by a factor of ten! People who have visited our home immediately assume that we have granite countertops. The glaze is very thick, enhancing the granite look by making the colors more vivid and adding a small amount of magnification. However, there are some warnings with the use of epoxy/resin:As the resin will unavoidably fall over the edges of your counters, be ready to tape everything off because it will be messy.It only functions on flat surfaces; if the edge of your countertop has a "lip," the epoxy won't cover it because of how self-leveling it is. For the epoxy to properly settle, I had to remove some of the countertop lip with a wood planer and sander. Additionally, neither the side borders nor the back splash will have a good covering (it will develop runs). For any vertical surfaces, I advise using Giani's top coat, and for the top, FAMOWOOD epoxy/resin glaze.Be willing to take chances because you can seriously mess up your countertops. But in my opinion, this is wholly worthwhile. Once applied, this is very thick and difficult to remove with sanding. To get back to your original countertops, you actually do need a chisel and sander. You really need to make sure you work swiftly and that you have complete covering with a 15-20 minute cure time. The instructions suggest using a squeegee or trowel, but I've found that using your two hands while wearing nitrile or latex gloves works the best. You can feel the places that haven't been covered thanks to this.One thing I observed is that occasionally, as the glaze dries, it will pull away from certain regions, leaving areas that resemble tiny holes. You should be alright as long as you don't skip on applying the glaze.To remove bubbles after applying the glaze coat, you'll also need another specialist tool, such as a butane lighter or heat gun.Try the epoxy glaze if you have the desire and want spectacular results; you won't be sorry. My photographs, I believe, are evidence of this.



Giani Countertop Paint Kit, Chocolate Brown Review:


I made the decision to do this for our laminate kitchen countertops after reading numerous reviews from Home Depot, Lowe's, and Amazon. The outcome using the basic kit is satisfactory. The outcome, however, is AMAZING when using an epoxy resin glaze in place of the Giani Top Coat.The top coat finish that comes with the kit isn't something I particularly like. It looked alright when we tried it out on some of the back splash. However, I read a review on Amazon where the customer used an epoxy/resin glaze in place of the top coat that was provided.LET ME BE CLEAR: It improves by a factor of ten! People who have visited our home immediately assume that we have granite countertops. The glaze is very thick, enhancing the granite look by making the colors more vivid and adding a small amount of magnification. However, there are some warnings with the use of epoxy/resin:As the resin will unavoidably fall over the edges of your counters, be ready to tape everything off because it will be messy.It only functions on flat surfaces; if the edge of your countertop has a "lip," the epoxy won't cover it because of how self-leveling it is. For the epoxy to properly settle, I had to remove some of the countertop lip with a wood planer and sander. Additionally, neither the side borders nor the back splash will have a good covering (it will develop runs). For any vertical surfaces, I advise using Giani's top coat, and for the top, FAMOWOOD epoxy/resin glaze.Be willing to take chances because you can seriously mess up your countertops. But in my opinion, this is wholly worthwhile. Once applied, this is very thick and difficult to remove with sanding. To get back to your original countertops, you actually do need a chisel and sander. You really need to make sure you work swiftly and that you have complete covering with a 15-20 minute cure time. The instructions suggest using a squeegee or trowel, but I've found that using your two hands while wearing nitrile or latex gloves works the best. You can feel the places that haven't been covered thanks to this.One thing I observed is that occasionally, as the glaze dries, it will pull away from certain regions, leaving areas that resemble tiny holes. You should be alright as long as you don't skip on applying the glaze.To remove bubbles after applying the glaze coat, you'll also need another specialist tool, such as a butane lighter or heat gun.Try the epoxy glaze if you have the desire and want spectacular results; you won't be sorry. My photographs, I believe, are evidence of this.



ArmoGlaze Odorless Bathtub Refinishing Kit, Made in USA, Pour-On Application, Mirror Gloss Finish, White Review:


I'll begin by stating that the goods seems to be of excellent quality. But! It is far more complicated than anticipated, and the tools they give you (combs) are useless. The yellow plastic trowel is the only functional item you will receive.The directions were clear and simple to understand. I advise visiting the website and obtaining the detailed instructions' pdf file. DON'T just rely on the video. There isn't any dialogue, and it's quite deceptive. The preparation will be the most difficult portion. The first owner had already renovated our bathtub (badly). Determine whether your tub has previously been restored, according to a stage in the instructions. If so, get ready for your life's longest preparation. We went to buy some paint remover because the instructions said to use it. However, a caution that reads DO NOT USE TO STRIP BATHTUBS is printed on every can of paint remover. Okay, so now we have to power sand the old paint off. Instead of instructing doing this, the instructions recommended using a razor blade scraper. Ha! You would spend the entire week shaving your tub. Not very effective. Power sanding seems to solve the problem in just a few hours.We were prepared to pour after the preliminary work was finished and the bathroom floor was taped off and covered with a plastic drop cloth. Keep in mind that, contrary to what was advised, you must clean the entire bathroom, not just the tub. Otherwise, every particle of dust and hair will miraculously fall to the tub. SLOWLY incorporate portion B into part A. Air bubbles can readily form and land on the tub, destroying the finish. The directions state to use a blow dryer on the bubbles if this occurs, but doing so renders the product TACKY and challenging to deal with. (Also, once the product is mixed, make sure to set a timer for 2 hours because time goes really quickly when you're upset, sobbing, and trying not to botch up this home improvement project that you thought would be a great idea.) Just before the two-hour mark, the epoxy begins to solidify, making smoothing out nearly difficult.Pouring and spreading are made to look so simple in the instructional video! It appears as though the substance is easy to disseminate and flows effortlessly. Nope! This is hefty stuff. THIIIIIICK. It is difficult to move, as the comb only moves large blobs or puddles. Anything else will not function with the comb. It actually leaves groove marks in the epoxy, but you'd expect that once it settles, those groove marks would disappear. No. Even though there are microscopic bumps EVERYWHERE you tried to comb, the epoxy looks to level out. Avoid doing it until you comb the product out first to get it distributed, and then use the yellow trowel to smooth it out. Your saving grace is the yellow trowel. Your adversaries in the tub are its curves and ridges.We may have only used half of the available material. The instructions state that the thickness should only be around 1/16th of an inch, however there was so much leftover that we initially believed we made a mistake. Additionally, you must monitor the epoxy pooling near the tub's base. Get the surplus material back into the bucket by scraping the tub's walls and floor from the bottom up. You'll repeat this several times. Despite this, puddles continue to collect at the base, as shown in one of the photographs I've included. Unfortunately, that's how it will have to be since it was already past the two-hour threshold. If this occurs, it won't be the end of the world; it will just be annoying. particularly if you strive for perfection.Be aware of what you're getting into and be ready to labor for a whole day; overall, the tub looks better than it did before. You'll be dirty and unable to use your shower for at least 24 hours, so hopefully you have a second bathroom or a friend or family member who will allow you shower at their home after. Enjoy!



Giani Countertop Paint Clear Acrylic Topcoat- Step 3 Review:


I used this package to 'polish up' the top coat on my kitchen; it was like reapplying a top coat to your nail polish to give it a new look.Please be aware that the finished product from the kit, including the top coat, is not intended to look even and straight on your surface. Don't panic if it doesn't feel like nailpolish smooth; it's supposed to seem rough but smooth.I found it a little challenging to roll it all over since some regions didn't have time to smooth out before it dried. In that situation, don't add extra product because it will simply make the problem worse. For minor spots, try dabbing a drop of water in there with your finger (just like if you scuff wet nail polish, you can save it if you gently lick the nail.)Jeez, you could be picturing a woman with 50-inch nails by this point since I really like the nail paint in this review. That's not the situation:



Tub and Tile Refinishing Kit, White, 21 oz, Brush On, Tough as Tile Kit Review:


The item is excellent. The application recommendation was the only thing I didn't enjoy. They especially advise against brush treatment for shower tile since it is horrible. One half has been painted on with a brush in my photos. I changed to a roller after stopping in the middle. It is a runny paint that thickens. Therefore, the paint frequently pulled out the bristles as I was brushing. When I moved to a roller, the outcomes were clearly different. There are runs on the side with the brush, but none on the side with the roller. I wish someone had mentioned using a roller before I did mine. Considering that it's epoxy, the scent is to be expected. It has a very potent nail paint remover scent. I wrapped plastic around the exterior of the bathroom door and installed a window fan that was blowing outdoors. As a result, the pressure in the room decreased and the bathroom's odor was contained inside. I also purchased a respirator, not a mask, and while wearing it, I didn't smell it at all.



Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub and Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White 2 Pack Review:


I used this product to paint my five-foot-long bathroom countertop. I applied 4 coats of paint, and about a month later, I can periodically smell the paint's chemical odor as it is still curing. It appears fantastic, like a brand-new counter top. If the paint is handled forcefully, such as by dropping a can of shaving cream on the counter, it will scrape. In my opinion, it won't withstand being submerged in water for an extended period of time, like in a bathtub. In a few years, my counter top will need to be painted again. I'll probably just get a brand-new counter top at that point, but this workaround provides me time to put money away for that possibility.Although using this paint is challenging, if you exercise extreme caution it will result in a good finish.When applying this paint, I strongly advise using a good quality 3M respirator with replacement filters, open windows, and a fan running. The scent did not leave my house for 3 days. The painting instructions that come with it are not sufficiently thorough.Make sure to thoroughly clean and sand your surface first. I discovered that 220 grit sand paper worked nicely, and for large sections, I used an electric orbital sander while hand-sanding the corners. I then cleaned the area in accordance with the directions and allowed it to air dry. This was the simple and effective portion.You MUST use "high density foam" rollers, the WHITE ones you can purchase at most home improvement stores, after mixing the paint as directed on the cans. You MUST replace your roller after each layer in order to achieve the best results and a smooth texture. It works nicely to apply several light coatings using a brand-new, white high density foam roller for each coat. I discovered the hard way that this paint will consume any more brushes or rollers, leaving behind foamy bristles or roller threads. Then, as I did, you will be forced to start over by sanding everything down. You will regret it, like I did, if you don't use the white high density foam rollers.For optimal results, allow each coat at least half a day to dry. Waiting merely one or two hours between applications will lead to a runny mess. Even after several hours, when you apply a fresh layer, the solvent in the new paint will liquefy the preceding coat. It is easier to reduce clumsy streaks and roller marks by applying numerous thin coats and allowing each coat to dry for a few hours in between. Between coats, take careful to tightly cap your can of mixed paint. Finally, unless you have done this previously and are an expert, you will need two kits to cover a regular-sized bathtub or a huge bathroom counter like mine.



Giani Countertop Paint Kit, White Diamond Review:


How nicely this worked surprised me in a good way. It looks like stone and was surprisingly simple to apply. I do have some recommendations for using it:tape higher than you believe is necessary. I had to add more tape because the sponges were bigger than the tape could handle, just to be sure I wouldn't paint the back splash.-if you are covering a huge area, make it a little darker than you desire. My last section needed the bottom of the paint scraped off, so I got another can of white and subsequently lightened it. Since I just needed to brighten a tiny area, it blended well, but it would have been simpler to have everything else slightly darker and avoid having to wait for a second can to arrive before sealing it.-work in manageable chunks; avoid attempting to complete the task all at once. If you let the paint dry, it stops blending nicely, so unless you only need to add a little extra to lighten a spot like I did, trying to blend the paint afterwards would result in a disaster. The instructions advised using two for areas, but I gave it a try with one for parts, give or take, and it seemed to work OK.-I like how the marble-like veins turned out using the tip of a 2-inch angled brush. I wanted thick veins, so working in little parts allowed me to merge before it appeared as though I had used a paintbrush. I simply stopped working on the area at the end, and it appeared smooth when I began a line in the following portion.-Set aside a whole day to finish the assignment. It took me around 9 hours to finish my kitchen because I didn't want to rush and make it seem painted. Allow the primer to dry for at least an hour by taking your time to fully sponge it. If you begin the sponging too soon, it will blend too much with the rest of the paint. The kit comes with one sponge that you must cut. In order to get into cracks and along the wall, I chopped a few little pieces of sponge, which made it much easier to reach the edge without it looking painted.-Being patient and not attempting to rush it is crucial.



Giani Granite Paint Glitter Top Coat Step 3 Review:


This overcoat served as our coffee table. The countertop equipment was already ours thanks to Giani. If you're searching for a thick glitter, look elsewhere because this glitter is really fine. The table came out beautifully. We admired it.


Does countertop refinishing really work?

Countertop refinishing really works. You can take an old, scratched, or even chipped countertop and make it look new again. The process is simple and relatively inexpensive. You can do it yourself in a few hours with little to no experience.

How can I redo my countertops cheap?

One way to redo your countertops on the cheap is to use a laminate countertop kit. You can find these kits at most home improvement stores and they come with everything you need to install a new laminate countertop. Another option is to paint your countertops. You can either use a countertop paint kit or just regular paint and primer. If you choose to paint your countertops, make sure to sand them down first and then apply a few coats of primer and paint.

How can I update my countertops without replacing them?

One way to update your countertops without replacing them is to refinish them. This can be done by sanding them down and then painting or staining them. You could also add new hardware to your countertops to give them an updated look.

How do I paint my own countertops?

You can easily paint your own countertops to give them a new look without spending a lot of money. First, clean the countertops thoroughly with soap and water. Then, sand them lightly with fine-grit sandpaper to roughen up the surface and help the paint adhere better. Next, apply a primer specifically designed for use on laminate surfaces. Once the primer is dry, paint the countertops with a high-quality acrylic paint. Be sure to use several thin coats, allowing each one to dry completely before adding the next. Finally, seal the paint with a clear