It's not a good idea to put sealer over paint. The paint won't adhere well to the sealer and it will eventually peel off.
Sealer can be used on bare metal, but it is not necessary. If you are going to paint the metal, sealer will help to prevent rust and provide a better surface for the paint to adhere to.
If you have unsealed concrete, you should definitely use a penetrating sealer. Penetrating sealers provide long-lasting protection against water and other liquids, as well as stains, dirt, and other debris. They also help to protect against freeze-thaw damage and can make your concrete easier to clean.
Flex Seal is a liquid rubber sealant that can be used on a variety of surfaces, including concrete. It is designed to fill cracks and gaps, and prevent water damage. Flex Seal can be applied to wet or dry surfaces, and cures to a flexible, waterproof seal. It is not recommended for use on structural cracks.
4.8/5
VERSITLE: Our most versatile product. Many customers use only this product for all coats of finish
DURABLE WATERPROOFING: Penetrates and waterproofs when used as a finishing system in multiple coats on its own or in conjunction with Waterlox Original Satin Finish or Waterlox Original High Gloss Finish.
LONG-LASTING: Forms a protective yet elastic finish against common household spills, moisture and foot traffic
TIME-TESTED: Our oldest and truly “original†product, since 1910
MEDIUM SHEEN: Produces a medium sheen appearance (75° gloss level when finished; fades to a 50-55° gloss level in 3-6 months)
$234
very excellent outcomes This oil finish is conventional. Mineral spirits, tung oil, linseed oil, ester gum, olefin resin, and phenolic resin are among the chemicals listed on the container's label. It also comprises roughly 60% volatile and 40% non-volatile materials, respectively (the last 4 ingredients). When applied, the main smell is provided by the mineral spirits, and it is reminiscent of other oil-based finishes as Minwax poly, Watco, Formby's, etc. The label includes the necessary ventilation directions. It will alter the color of the wood to a warmer tone, similar to other comparable oil-based treatments. The liquid has a pale brown hue. I've seen that during the first hour or so, the most of the VOCs flash off. The finish "dries" as a result of the oils oxidizing and VOCs evaporating to form a layer with the resins. Setting up the finish will be made easier by moving the air using a fan. I've only ever used this on newly machined wood, so I cannot speak to how well it performs on wood that has been refinished, but I have always had success with it setting up within the promised 24 hours (usually less, but I wait for the full 24 before recoating). Use thin coats; I've never had to thin this stuff out to apply it. Between coats, there is no need to sand. There is a very slight oil scent (likely from the tung and linseed oils) after the recommended 24 hours, but it dissipates as the finish completely cures over a few days. To apply the finish, no specific methods are required. I've hand-rubbed it, used a brush, or a lint-free cloth depending on the project. I often wear nitrile gloves more for hand hygiene than anything else, wiping away surplus material with a lint-free towel to create a consistent film. / Important: Be sure to properly dispose of oily rags. Oily rags can spontaneously fire, just like with all oil finishes, especially if they are bunched up or left in a pile. / According to the label, it creates a "medium shine" that dries down over 3–4 months to a less glossy sheen. That is true, as far as I can tell. Repairs are simple with this oil finish, which gives it a clear benefit over polyurethane. Old polyurethane does not want to stick to new polyurethane, so you must sand the surface to make it rougher. As long as the wood is clean, this Waterlox finish offers good protection, but you may also reapply the finish over time. / I only use this product on exceptional projects because its only drawback is that it costs about twice as much as other finishes. In comparison to Watco Danish Oil ($8/pint = $0.50/ounce), Minwax Antique Oil Finish ($14/pint = $0.88/ounce), Minwax Tung Oil Finish ($20/quart = $0.63/ounce), and Formby's Traditional Tung Oil Finish ($10/pint = $0.63/ounce), Waterlox costs around 43 cents per quart, or $1.34 per ounce. Others, then, are less expensive and also do a great job. However, they have various sheens. Although a gallon is more economical ($90/gallon = $0.70/ounce), it will go bad once opened and oxygen is exposed to it continuously unless you use a LOT of finish. As mentioned in other reviews, you might be able to get it cheaper elsewhere. However, since I am a Prime member, the difference in shipping fees didn't bother me as much. / The COST factor reduces the performance rating from 5 stars to 4 stars. In conclusion, I like it and will keep using it. / Remove the oxygen is how I plan to increase shelf life. Okay, so I'm weird.... to save the finish, I decant only what I need into a little mason jar using a kitchen syringe, and then I replace the air with nitrogen as I seal it up (air is 71% nitrogen and 21% oxygen). I utilize a regulator to lower the pressure in a tank of pressurized nitrogen that I use for welding to a few psi, which is then throttled through a ball valve and tygon tubing. For me, this truly does work extremely well. There are other, less bizarre ways to accomplish the same thing, as well as some consumer goods like "Bloxygen," but they are also pricey. /
4.6/5
Delivers excellent water repellency to outdoor fabrics, leather and suede. Not intended for indoor use
Helps protect fabric from fading by blocking out harmful UVA/UVB rays
Ideal for use on patio furniture, patio umbrellas, grill covers, tarps, flags, awnings, boat covers, spa covers, auto covers and more. One can provides 60 sq. ft. of water/sun resistance on light nylon or 20 sq. ft. on heavier fabrics
Simple one-step application that dries odorless and resists yellowing
$234
When I initially saw this, I assumed it was for clothes, but when I accidentally sprayed it on my hairy body and went swimming, I felt like I was floating on a layer of air over the water and couldn't get wet at all! Everything was great until I wanted a shower. Since it is 3M Scotch-Guard, I'll have to put up with the smell till it goes away. I shouldn't have sprayed it everywhere. But now that I don't have to wipe everything, I've drastically reduced how much toilet paper I use—I feel like I'm coated in TEFLON! that has been helpful!
4.3/5
Suitable for use in hot and cold environments
Polyurethane based, moisture-curing adhesive
Waterproof and paintable
Can be used for interior or exterior projects
Low VOC content: Meets stringent state and federal regulatory requirements
Bonds most common construction materials such as wood, treated wood, hardwood flooring, concrete, stone, marble, slate, masonry, brick, foam insulation of all sorts, carpets, metal, lead, cement-based products, ceramic, fiberglass, and drywall
Meets and exceeds APA AFG-01 specs - can be applied directly to dry, wet or frozen lumber
$234
I'm not very good at this, but our retaining wall had a number of loose stones. After doing extensive research, I decided to try this product. We didn't properly follow the instructions because the bottoms of the stones were covered in dirt and slime even though they were intended to be cleaned and dried. To acquire a clean surface, we did our best to brush the dirt away. Put a lot of this material on the bottom after that. Reinstalled the stone and left heavy objects on top of it for a few days. It appears to have performed flawlessly. In the three months since we used it, the stones are firmly in place once more, and we haven't experienced any problems. We used almost the full can, and the remaining portion was thrown away because, according to previous reviews, once it was opened, it would essentially lose all of its usefulness. Just in case we run into any more issues, I bought another can.
4.1/5
Seeps into cracks and holes. Dries to a watertight, flexible, rubberized coating. Stays flexible and pliable; lasts many years
Will not sag or drip in the Summer heat. Will not crack or peel in the Winter cold
Protects surface from corrosion, can be used on wet or dry surfaces
Transform and protect virtually everything! Ideal for arts & crafts, projects & hobbies
The easy way to coat, seal, protect, and stop leaks fast! Once dry, can be painted any color
$234
Phil Swift is here to discuss the effectiveness of Flex Seal!I'm kidding! Although I don't particularly identify as Phil Swift, who can forget those commercials. Here are some comments I made on Flex seal spray today at work:Since it was a rubberized spray, I was initially eager to buy. A few years ago, I received my first Flex Seal can. This was mostly to address problems with our roof. Let's be honest. Few people have the means to fork over thousands of dollars for roof maintenance or a new roof in general. Please let me know if you can so I can locate your pot of gold. Even a money tree will do!Since this is a "seen on TV" product, I'll be honest and say that I didn't think it would actually work. The reviews were also questionable. So I made the decision to buy and use it. I can only say that I'm glad I did. This product really does the trick for my trouble spots. Make sure to adhere to the guidelines. Avoid using this lotion in one thick coat. For optimal results, apply it in thin, even layers. In order to protect some worn boards, cracks, and nail holes underneath missing shingles until I had enough cash to replace or at least mend the roof, I used this to seal them. Currently more than 30 years old, the original roof. That says it all. Nothing lasts a lifetime.The outcome? I first applied a flex seal years ago, and it is still holding firm with no leaks to date. There have also been some quite sever rains and snows.I haven't attempted this application on anything else, but I was considering doing it on my outdoor basement steps. For your convenience, I will also provide an update on those findings if I do.Overall, I always have Flex Seal on hand in case anything else comes up, which lately has been quite a bunch.Goodluck!
3.8/5
Grab holds objects in place and in most cases
Thick adhesive clings to the surface and can be used on dry or wet surfaces
Is mildew and UV resistant, paintable, solvent free
$234
Had a leak from the tank to the discharge connection in the truck camper's gray water sewer line. Since the area was quite small, finding the fracture in the 1 1/2 line required some guesswork. I wrapped an 8" section of the line with Flex Seal tape where I believed the leak was, and then I sprayed Flex Seal around the connection. Spray the connection region after the tape has been in place for roughly 48 hours. No leaks the next day after filling the grey water tank and letting it sit overnight. The spray can's size could have been reduced by nearly half, which would have made things much simpler. Although I probably should have purchased the 16 oz. can instead of the spray, the issue is now resolved.
3.8/5
Will not sag or drip in the Summer heat. Will not crack or peel in the Winter cold
Seeps into cracks and holes. Dries to a watertight, flexible, rubberized coating. Stays flexible and pliable; lasts many years
The easy way to coat, seal, protect, and stop leaks fast! Once dry, can be painted any color
Transform and protect virtually everything! Ideal for arts & crafts, projects & hobbies
Protects surface from corrosion, can be used on wet or dry surfaces
$234
I didn't build a boat out of a screen door or anything crazy, but this stuff works fairly well. I had a cardboard frame around an archery target. The cardboard is fairly weatherproof because I coated it with this substance, and the target lives outside. If I needed it again, I'd purchase it.
3.8/5
For use on porcelain, ceramic, fiberglass, acrylic cast iron and steel surfaces
High-gloss finish
Quick-dry
Long-lasting
Easy to use
$234
Compared to what I thought was a fairly white tub, the color is VERY white! If you overlook the obvious color difference, however, it appears like this covered up significant holes where paint had flaked well.There haven't been any indications of an issue after only one month since application. It will be worth it if it allows us to use our current tub for a few more years before we have to have it properly repainted once more.Pouring the contents of one bottle into another requires extreme caution. Despite taking care, I still managed to spill quite a bit. As many people also pointed out, the cause of our initial issue was the use of suction cup bath mats and infant bath seats on our freshly painted tub. The suction cup mats were lifted daily to weekly for cleaning, completely removing the paint.
3.8/5
Rust-Oleum leak seal is an easy to use, rubberized protective utility coating designed
Can be top-coated with latex or alkyd based paints
Coating will not sag or drip
Can actively build to fill gaps small holes and cracks
Great for gutters roofs flashing ductwork pvc drains masonry concrete and more
Dries to a semi-smooth firm finish
It provides a water-tight, flexible seal that prevents moisture penetration and corrosion
Leak seal dries to a semi-smooth finish that will not sag or drip
$234
As per usual, Amazon.com's delivery time was less than the estimated dates. I sincerely appreciate it. The Rust-Olem spray does its goal admirably. Where the components join together in my rain gutter, I used it to block leaks. The essential thing to remember is to aim the spray correctly and to realize that it is wide as it comes out of the container. The container should be held 8 to 18 inches away from the area you want to stop leaking, according to the directions. If you have to hold the container 18 inches away to cover the area, I find it difficult to imagine how this product might stop a leak. Calling a plumber would likely be more successful.) I would advise holding the can closer to the leak than 3–4 inches if it is a small area leak, such as a gutter leak. If not, you risk spraying things like your house or other objects that you didn't mean to contact with the black tarry spray. It can be challenging and stressful to clean up. The best outcomes come from short, swift sprays. It's a good idea to place a sizeable piece of cardboard between the gutter and the house as a backdrop (a lot less clean up and a whole lot less stress). When finished, simply throw away the cardboard. Don't forget to hold the can upside down after you're done so you can clean the nozzle. Pressing the spray button only needs to be done for a few seconds.
Floor sealer can last for many years if it is properly applied and well-maintained. However, it is important to note that floor sealer is not a permanent solution and will eventually need to be replaced.
There are two types of sealers: those that protect the surface from stains and those that protect the surface from wear. The best type of sealer to use depends on the type of surface you are sealing and the amount of protection you need.
There are a few things you can put between metal and concrete to avoid corrosion. The most common is a layer of paint or an anodic coating.
A floor sealer is a clear or tinted coating that is applied to the surface of a floor to protect it from wear and tear, staining, and other damage. Floor sealers can be made from a variety of materials, including polyurethane, acrylic, and epoxy. They are typically applied with a brush, roller, or sprayer, and then allowed to dry for a period of time before the floor is used.
A wood sealer is a product that is applied to bare wood to protect it from the elements. Sealers provide a barrier against water, sunlight, and other environmental factors that can damage wood. Sealers can also enhance the appearance of wood by giving it a deeper, richer color.
There are many types of concrete sealers on the market. Some are better than others. Epoxy is one type of sealer that is becoming more popular. It is a two-part sealer that is mixed together and applied to the concrete. It is then allowed to cure for 24 hours. Epoxy is more expensive than other sealers, but it is worth the price. It is much more durable and will last longer.
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