While most graphics cards come with a fan, some graphics cards come with a blower. Blower fans are designed to move hot air out of the case quickly and efficiently. However, blower fans can be quite noisy. If you are looking for a quiet graphics card, you may want to avoid cards with blower fans.
GPU blowers are not worse, they are just different. The main difference is that they push air out of the back of the case, which can cause some issues with airflow.
Graphics cards come with one or more fans to keep them cool. The fans on most graphics cards can be replaced if they stop working or if you want to upgrade to a better fan. You will need to know what size and type of fan you need before you buy one. You can usually find this information in the manual for your graphics card or on the manufacturer's website.
GPU fans always spin when the graphics card is in use. The speed of the fan varies depending on how much the GPU is being used.
5/5
This is DIY Fan for zotac gtx 970 dual Fan video card
The fan not come with any screws , please keep your screws from your Graphic Card
Fan Dimension (L x W x H): approx. 75mm x 75mm x 10mm, Screw hole distance 40x40x40mm
inRobert is a professional seller on video card fan, if you need any video card fan, please contact us
$234
Fans are fantastic. The power wires must be flipped or twisted to fit under the heat shroud because they are roughly 1/2" longer than OEM.The fans themselves are a wonderful substitute for the OEM fans on the card because they are so quiet. Excellent financial savings as compared to purchasing a new GPU for over $200.
5/5
Current: 0.5AMP
Power Connector: 4Pin Header
Model: FD8015U12S
Voltage: DC 12V
Fan Dimension (L x W x H): approx. 75mm x 75mm x 10mm
$234
The original fan, which lasted for roughly 10 years, is the same fan that is being used now.There is no problem because the noise level is the same as the original. Finding this on Amazon proved challenging, but by using the product model number on the original fan, you may quickly find it.
5/5
inRobert is a professional seller on video card fan, if you need any video card fan, please contact us
Work for zotac gtx 970 dual Fan video card
Voltage: DC 12V Current: 0.38A
The fan not come with any screws , please keep your screws from your Graphic Card
Fan Dimension (L x W x H): approx. 75mm x 75mm x 10mm, Screw hole distance 40x40x40mm
$234
Fans are fantastic. The power wires must be flipped or twisted to fit under the heat shroud because they are roughly 1/2" longer than OEM.The fans themselves are a wonderful substitute for the OEM fans on the card because they are so quiet. Excellent financial savings as compared to purchasing a new GPU for over $200.
5/5
Compatible Model Number: Msi GeForce GTX 1050Ti 2GT OC, Msi GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GT OC, Msi GeForce GTX 1060 3G OC, Msi GeForce GTX 1060 6G OC
✔ America local 5 to 10 days can received.
Replacement and high quality,Replace your faulty, cracked or broken fan
Cooling Fan Size: approx. 85 mm * 12 mm (Diameter * Height)
Mounting holes distance: approx. 40mm * 40mm * 40mm
$234
My ZOTAC GTX 1060 had a noisy fan that was under warranty, but if I returned it to ZOTAC, they would send me a refurbished model in its place. Manufacturers prefer to send you reconditioned units rather than simply repairing your goods, and my card is less than a year old. Every refurbished device I've ever received appears to have seen some use. For as long as I can find the components because I used to be a factory service technician, I do the repairs myself. My graphics card is currently being quietly cooled by what appear to be OEM fans.
4.3/5
Application: For ASUS ROG STRIX-GTX 1060/GTX 1070/GTX 1070TI/GTX 1080/GTX 1080Ti
Application: For ASUS STRIX-GTX 980TI/R9 390/R9 390X/RX580/RX480
Model: T129215SU / Voltage: DC 12V / Current: 0.50A
This is a Graphics Card Fan Replacement. Not include Mounting Screws
$234
doing its function. had an Asus 1080 Strix card with an exploding fan. Under the warranty, Asus wouldn't replace. They claimed that doing the fan replacement myself would void my warranty, which I found absurd given that they wouldn't even be honoring it. Additionally, they demanded $300 USD for the repair and two-way shipping.
4.2/5
Unmatched cooling performance: with a cooling capacity of 300 watts, The accelero Xtreme IV offers an unmatched cooling performance. The three 92 mm PWM fans and the pre-applied MX-4 thermal compound ensure efficient cooling, even under overclocking.
Installation without thermal glue: up to now the meticulous work of attaching different heatsinks with thermal glue was necessary. Thanks to the innovative back side plate This is a thing of the past. Without any thermal glue the graphics card can be returned to its original condition any time without leaving marks or residues.
Backside cooler for highest efficiency: ARCTIC has developed and patented a back side cooler for unparalleled VRM and RAM cooling performance. It offers efficient cooling for RAM and voltage regulators and thus does not just allow higher Clock rates but mainly increases the graphics card's service life.
Multi-compatibility: accelero Xtreme IV features a versatile, problem free mounting system that allows this cooler to accommodate a wide range of graphics cards.Extremely quiet < 23dBA operation
Virtually silent: its low noise impeller and patented fan holder ensures the fan is ultra-quiet even under full load. Thanks to the PWM control, the fan speed adjusts according to the GPU temperature and thus the noise level remains at an absolute minimum.
$234
After having this placed for a day, the cooling improvement is remarkable. The cooling of a FE is, to put it mildly, subpar, thus I recently bought a used FE to replace my old but quiet card. After fine-tuning all the fans, I regularly observed 72C while gaming, and the card was noisy, running at around 80% of its capacity to maintain that 72C. My wife mistook me for a vacuum cleaner instead of a gamer. Although the card throttles at roughly 83C, 72C is not an excessive temperature, and since the card was utilized, voiding the warranty was not a problem. After installing this, the card is silent and the temperature peaks at roughly 51C, a 20-degree improvement. Mission accomplished.But before you do this, you should be aware of the following:- The interior structural shelf, fan, and shell of the FE must all be removed completely. In order to do it, you must remove every single tiny screw you can find—probably 30 or more of them—across a range of sizes. It would be difficult to manage the screws on your own if you changed your mind and wanted to go back. After exposing the card's bare interior, you will be less astounded by how little is actually contained inside that pricey card. The backing must also be entirely removed. A jeweler's screwdriver, a few tiny Allen wrenches, and a tiny nut driver are required. Sorry, I forgot to note the sizes.- The thermal gluing will follow. To determine where to glue the metal heat sinks, use the old thermal rubbery tape that was on the interior of the removed shell as a guide. Simply choose the one that seems to fit each board piece the best from the variety included in the kit. The work is subtle. The kit also comes with a tiny piece of clear insulating tape in case the heat sink should come into contact with metal, but I didn't use any of it. Give it an hour to dry.- Attach the spacers to the mounting bracket in your new cooler with tape or adhesive now. There are three different sizes of spacers, and I found it difficult to remove the second side of the double-sided tape they provided; you need surgeons hands and fine fingernails. I didn't appreciate this aspect of the design and felt there should be a better solution. So I didn't; I glued the spacers (the 2.5mm ones that the 1080 uses) on top of the bracket's proper holes using the same thermal glue. Just long enough to install the board to the cooler is required for the spacers to remain in place.- Next, attach the cooler fan cable to the Nvidia board's 4 pin connector.Now that the cooler is on its back, lower the board onto the cooler and align the 4 mounting holes with the adhesive spacers before covering them with the supplied metal bracket. The nearly invisible mylar coating on one side of the bracket should face down because it is not conductive. Additionally, a small piece of foam that you attach to the bracket's bottom protects it from making touch with the board's reverse side. You're almost done when you insert the four screws and gently tighten them one at a time. You don't need to do anything because thermal paste was already installed in the cooler when it was purchased.That's all there is to it; simply reinstall the card in your PC and hope your luck. Tune your new fan curve with MSI Afterburner.A couple further ideasThe original FE was built like a battleship, and you are giving it up for a kit that is not that. It should be noted that the cooler is secured in place with just those four screws dangling from the graphics card board. It will work for a PC in an office that hasn't moved in years, but I wouldn't tether your PC to an ATV because it might completely fall apart from shaking. This is much more vulnerable than what I started with, however installing an aftermarket graphics card support rail (which is what I did) will assist. Since this kit uses about 30 different cards, any structural improvements must be made since no specifics for any card are included.Additionally, now that the backing is gone, you will need to frequently spray out dust, but since your motherboard is already exposed and is vertical, less dust will accumulate there than it will on this surface.Furthermore, the FE completely expelled all heat out the back, but this does not happen since the heat is transmitted inside the case. You would assume that would make your case fans work harder, but I discovered the opposite to be true. My case fans are controlled by the "system" temperature detected by the motherboard, and I discovered they barely turn on now, in contrast to the original FE, when I was gaming, they would run at a steady pace. In order to raise the system temperature, the original FE must have applied a lot of heat to the motherboard via the PCIe socket. However, because the heat from this rises up toward the CPU cooler just above it, my CPU temperatures did increase a little bit. Nothing significant yet noteworthyFor the cooling it offered, I'd give this a five-star rating, but I'm docking it a point or two due to the bothersome spacer issue and the absence of any structural supports. But removing the FE from the down parka that served as the initial plastic casing undoubtedly contributed to the cooling's excellent performance.Overall, I'm really pleased with how much the thermal performance has improved and how quietly it operates. However, this installation was not simple, which is why I provided such extensive explanation. Good fortune!
4.2/5
LOW NOISE: The Accelero Xtreme III cools very efficiently thanks to three ultra-quiet PWM fans. Overclockers has shown us the Accelero Xtreme III is 32 dBA quieter compared to the stock cooler. Thanks to the PWM control, the speed of all fans will adjust according to the temperature of the GPU and thus the noise level remains minimal as always. Click here to see how the PWM control settings can be changed according to your performance and noise preference.
Massive 300W of cooling power with triple 92mm PWM fans & efficient heatsink design
NEW FAN CONTROLLER: An improved fan controller and the use of additional filters guarantee a smooth operation with both NVIDIA and AMD graphics cards. Through software, the temperature-fan speed curve can be adjusted. No matter whether you are a hardcore-gamer or a silent enthusiast, you get the temperature and noise level exactly where you want it to be.
SUPERIOR COOLING PERFORMANCE: 5 premium quality copper heatpipes and the award-winning MX-4 thermal compound (pre-applied) conduct heat from the GPU efficiently to the 84-fin aluminum heatsink, meanwhile, the three 92mm PWM fans create massive airflow to bring unparallelled cooling performance, even when higher performance is required under overclocking. HardwareLuxx tested the Accelero Xtreme III in which it reduced the GPU temperature on a Gigabyte GTX 670 by 27 degrees more than the stock cooler did.
Versatile interchangeable mounting design supports a wide variety of VGAs from both nVidia& AMD
ENHANCED RAM AND VR COOLING: The Accelero Xtreme III comes with 31 RAM and VR heatsinks to keep your RAM and VR at optimal temperatures. The thermal adhesive facilitates heat dissipation of RAMs and VRs and offers a strong and lasting bond.
MULTI-COMPATIBILITY: It features a versatile and interchangeable mounting system with 31 RAM and VR coolers in different sizes and shapes to accommodate a wide range of graphics cards. Its compatibility with CrossFire and SLI is perfect for multi-VGA setups.
$234
After having this placed for a day, the cooling improvement is remarkable. The cooling of a FE is, to put it mildly, subpar, thus I recently bought a used FE to replace my old but quiet card. After fine-tuning all the fans, I regularly observed 72C while gaming, and the card was noisy, running at around 80% of its capacity to maintain that 72C. My wife mistook me for a vacuum cleaner instead of a gamer. Although the card throttles at roughly 83C, 72C is not an excessive temperature, and since the card was utilized, voiding the warranty was not a problem. After installing this, the card is silent and the temperature peaks at roughly 51C, a 20-degree improvement. Mission accomplished.But before you do this, you should be aware of the following:- The interior structural shelf, fan, and shell of the FE must all be removed completely. In order to do it, you must remove every single tiny screw you can find—probably 30 or more of them—across a range of sizes. It would be difficult to manage the screws on your own if you changed your mind and wanted to go back. After exposing the card's bare interior, you will be less astounded by how little is actually contained inside that pricey card. The backing must also be entirely removed. A jeweler's screwdriver, a few tiny Allen wrenches, and a tiny nut driver are required. Sorry, I forgot to note the sizes.- The thermal gluing will follow. To determine where to glue the metal heat sinks, use the old thermal rubbery tape that was on the interior of the removed shell as a guide. Simply choose the one that seems to fit each board piece the best from the variety included in the kit. The work is subtle. The kit also comes with a tiny piece of clear insulating tape in case the heat sink should come into contact with metal, but I didn't use any of it. Give it an hour to dry.- Attach the spacers to the mounting bracket in your new cooler with tape or adhesive now. There are three different sizes of spacers, and I found it difficult to remove the second side of the double-sided tape they provided; you need surgeons hands and fine fingernails. I didn't appreciate this aspect of the design and felt there should be a better solution. So I didn't; I glued the spacers (the 2.5mm ones that the 1080 uses) on top of the bracket's proper holes using the same thermal glue. Just long enough to install the board to the cooler is required for the spacers to remain in place.- Next, attach the cooler fan cable to the Nvidia board's 4 pin connector.Now that the cooler is on its back, lower the board onto the cooler and align the 4 mounting holes with the adhesive spacers before covering them with the supplied metal bracket. The nearly invisible mylar coating on one side of the bracket should face down because it is not conductive. Additionally, a small piece of foam that you attach to the bracket's bottom protects it from making touch with the board's reverse side. You're almost done when you insert the four screws and gently tighten them one at a time. You don't need to do anything because thermal paste was already installed in the cooler when it was purchased.That's all there is to it; simply reinstall the card in your PC and hope your luck. Tune your new fan curve with MSI Afterburner.A couple further ideasThe original FE was built like a battleship, and you are giving it up for a kit that is not that. It should be noted that the cooler is secured in place with just those four screws dangling from the graphics card board. It will work for a PC in an office that hasn't moved in years, but I wouldn't tether your PC to an ATV because it might completely fall apart from shaking. This is much more vulnerable than what I started with, however installing an aftermarket graphics card support rail (which is what I did) will assist. Since this kit uses about 30 different cards, any structural improvements must be made since no specifics for any card are included.Additionally, now that the backing is gone, you will need to frequently spray out dust, but since your motherboard is already exposed and is vertical, less dust will accumulate there than it will on this surface.Furthermore, the FE completely expelled all heat out the back, but this does not happen since the heat is transmitted inside the case. You would assume that would make your case fans work harder, but I discovered the opposite to be true. My case fans are controlled by the "system" temperature detected by the motherboard, and I discovered they barely turn on now, in contrast to the original FE, when I was gaming, they would run at a steady pace. In order to raise the system temperature, the original FE must have applied a lot of heat to the motherboard via the PCIe socket. However, because the heat from this rises up toward the CPU cooler just above it, my CPU temperatures did increase a little bit. Nothing significant yet noteworthyFor the cooling it offered, I'd give this a five-star rating, but I'm docking it a point or two due to the bothersome spacer issue and the absence of any structural supports. But removing the FE from the down parka that served as the initial plastic casing undoubtedly contributed to the cooling's excellent performance.Overall, I'm really pleased with how much the thermal performance has improved and how quietly it operates. However, this installation was not simple, which is why I provided such extensive explanation. Good fortune!
GPU fans push hot air out of the case. This is why it is important to have good airflow in your case. If your case does not have good airflow, your GPU will overheat and your computer will shut down.
No, graphics cards do not need fans. Fans are used to cool the graphics card and keep it from overheating. However, graphics cards can be cooled without fans.
It's a matter of personal preference, but for some people, three fans can make a difference for their GPU. It can help to improve airflow and keep the GPU cooler, which can in turn help to improve performance.
Most graphics cards need at least two fans to function properly. The RTX 3060 is no different. It needs at least three fans to function properly. The reason for this is because the RTX 3060 has a lot of power. It is important to have enough cooling power to keep the card from overheating.
There are a few things you can do to help cool your GPU. Make sure your computer case has good airflow and keep dust out of the components. You can also try using a fan controller to direct more air to the GPU. If your GPU is overclocked, you may need to adjust the settings to lower the temperature.
GPU fans typically last around 3-5 years before needing to be replaced. However, this can vary depending on how often the GPU is used and how well it is taken care of. If you take good care of your GPU and don't use it excessively, then it's possible that the fan may last even longer.
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