5/5
This is DIY Fan for zotac gtx 970 dual Fan video card
The fan not come with any screws , please keep your screws from your Graphic Card
Fan Dimension (L x W x H): approx. 75mm x 75mm x 10mm, Screw hole distance 40x40x40mm
inRobert is a professional seller on video card fan, if you need any video card fan, please contact us
$234
Fans work awesome. The power cables are about 1/2" longer than the OEM and so you have to flip/twist them in order for them to fit under the heat shroud.
The fans themselves are super quiet and great replacement for the OEM fans on the card. Great cost savings vs spending $200+ on a new GPU.
5/5
Current: 0.5AMP
Power Connector: 4Pin Header
Model: FD8015U12S
Voltage: DC 12V
Fan Dimension (L x W x H): approx. 75mm x 75mm x 10mm
$234
This is the same fan as the original and hope it will last as long as the first - which was about ten years.
The noise level is the same as the original as well so no issue. This was not easy to find on Amazon but search
by the product model number found on the original fan and it pops to the top of the list.
5/5
inRobert is a professional seller on video card fan, if you need any video card fan, please contact us
Work for zotac gtx 970 dual Fan video card
Voltage: DC 12V Current: 0.38A
The fan not come with any screws , please keep your screws from your Graphic Card
Fan Dimension (L x W x H): approx. 75mm x 75mm x 10mm, Screw hole distance 40x40x40mm
$234
Fans work awesome. The power cables are about 1/2" longer than the OEM and so you have to flip/twist them in order for them to fit under the heat shroud.
The fans themselves are super quiet and great replacement for the OEM fans on the card. Great cost savings vs spending $200+ on a new GPU.
5/5
Compatible Model Number: Msi GeForce GTX 1050Ti 2GT OC, Msi GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GT OC, Msi GeForce GTX 1060 3G OC, Msi GeForce GTX 1060 6G OC
✔ America local 5 to 10 days can received.
Replacement and high quality,Replace your faulty, cracked or broken fan
Cooling Fan Size: approx. 85 mm * 12 mm (Diameter * Height)
Mounting holes distance: approx. 40mm * 40mm * 40mm
$234
One of the fans of my ZOTAC GTX 1060 was making an annoying noise, its under warranty, but if I returned it to ZOTAC they would send me a reconditioned unit in exchange. My card is less than a year old, and manufacturers prefer to send you a reconditioned units instead of just repairing you product. Every reconditioned unit I've ever received looks well used. I was a factory service technician for many years, so if I can find the parts, I do the repairs myself. The fans appear to be OEM and are now quietly cooling my graphics card.
4.3/5
Application: For ASUS ROG STRIX-GTX 1060/GTX 1070/GTX 1070TI/GTX 1080/GTX 1080Ti
Application: For ASUS STRIX-GTX 980TI/R9 390/R9 390X/RX580/RX480
Model: T129215SU / Voltage: DC 12V / Current: 0.50A
This is a Graphics Card Fan Replacement. Not include Mounting Screws
$234
Does the job. Had a Asus 1080 strix card that had a fan that exploded. Asus would not replace under warranty. They said that replacing the fan myself would void my warranty which I found hilarious because they weren’t going to honor it anyways. They also wanted $300.00 USD for the repair plus shipping both ways. Took about 10 minutes to replace. Just make sure that you order the right fan as each of the three fans have different hookups depending on where the fan is positioned in the shroud.
4.2/5
Unmatched cooling performance: with a cooling capacity of 300 watts, The accelero Xtreme IV offers an unmatched cooling performance. The three 92 mm PWM fans and the pre-applied MX-4 thermal compound ensure efficient cooling, even under overclocking.
Installation without thermal glue: up to now the meticulous work of attaching different heatsinks with thermal glue was necessary. Thanks to the innovative back side plate This is a thing of the past. Without any thermal glue the graphics card can be returned to its original condition any time without leaving marks or residues.
Backside cooler for highest efficiency: ARCTIC has developed and patented a back side cooler for unparalleled VRM and RAM cooling performance. It offers efficient cooling for RAM and voltage regulators and thus does not just allow higher Clock rates but mainly increases the graphics card's service life.
Multi-compatibility: accelero Xtreme IV features a versatile, problem free mounting system that allows this cooler to accommodate a wide range of graphics cards.Extremely quiet < 23dBA operation
Virtually silent: its low noise impeller and patented fan holder ensures the fan is ultra-quiet even under full load. Thanks to the PWM control, the fan speed adjusts according to the GPU temperature and thus the noise level remains at an absolute minimum.
$234
I've had this installed a day now and the improvement in cooling is impressive. I recently picked up a used FE as an upgrade from my old but quiet card and the cooling in an FE is mediocre to say the least. After tuning all fans I routinely saw 72C while gaming and the card was noisy - running about 80% to maintain that 72C and the wife thought I was vacuuming instead of playing a game. While 72C is not an unreasonable temperature - the card throttles at about 83C - I wanted cooler and quieter and with a used card voiding the warranty was not an issue. After installing this the temperature peaks at about 51C - 20 degrees of improvement - and the card is silent. So mission achieved.
But here is what you should know before you do this -
- You need to completely remove the shell of the FE and the interior structural shelf and fan, etc. That involves removing every single tiny screw you can find - probably 30 or more of them - in many sizes. If you change your mind and want to go back it would be a challenge just managing the screws alone. Once you've stripped the card naked, you will be less impressed at what is really in that expensive card - not that much. You have to remove all of the backing as well. You need a jeweler's screwdriver, some very small Allen wrenches, and a very small nut driver. Didn't note the sizes, sorry.
- Then on to the thermal gluing. Use the old thermal squishy tape on the interior of the removed shell as a guide to where you need to glue the aluminum heat sinks. The kit includes a bunch of them so just pick what seems the best fit on each board element. It is delicate work. The kit also includes tiny clear insulating tape if you see a situation where the heat sink might touch something metal, but I didn't use any of it. Let it dry for an hour.
- Now you need to tape or glue the spacers to the mounting bracket in your new cooler. I didn't like this part of the design and thought there should be a better way - there are 3 different sizes of spacers and the double sided tape they included was impossible for me to get the second side backing off - you need surgeons hands and precision fingernails. So I didn't - I used the same thermal glue to glue the spacers (the 2.5mm ones that the 1080 uses) on top of the correct holes on the bracket. The spacers just need to stay in place long enough to mount the board to the cooler.
- Next connect the cooler fan cable to the 4 pin connector on the Nvidia board.
- Now with the cooler on it's back you lower the board onto the cooler and line up the 4 mounting holes to the glued spacers and put the supplied metal bracket over those holes - there is an almost invisible mylar coating on one side of the bracket and you want that downward because it is not conductive. Then there is a little foam piece you put on the underside of the bracket that also prevents the bracket from contacting the back side of the board. Put the 4 screws in, carefully tightening them in sequence and you are almost done. The cooler came with thermal paste already installed do you don't have to do anything there.
- That's it - just install the card back in your PC and cross your fingers. Use MSI Afterburner to tune your new fan curve.
A few more thoughts -
Note that the cooler is held in place with just those 4 screws hanging from the graphics card board, so this design is not great structurally - the original FE was built like a battleship and you are giving that up for a kit that is not that. For a PC in an office that doesn't move for years it will be fine, but I wouldn't strap your PC to an ATV where this thing might completely disintegrate from shaking. Installing an aftermarket graphics card support rail (that is what I did) will help but this is far more fragile than what I started with regardless. As this kit works with something like 30 different cards they don't include anything specific to any card, so any structural improvement must be improvised.
Also, with the backing gone you will want to spray out dust periodically - but then again this is no more exposed than your motherboard already is so that isn't a big deal, although the motherboard is vertical and therefore catches less dust than this will.
And finally, the FE exhausted all heat out the rear while this does not - the heat is sent into the case. You would think that would mean your case fans work harder but I found the opposite is true - my case fans are controlled by the "system" temperature measured by the motherboard and I found they barely come on now, where with the original FE they ran at a steady clip when gaming. So the original FE must have sent a lot of heat to the motherboard through the PCIe socket to drive up the system temperature. On the other hand, my CPU temps did rise a bit as the heat from this rises up towards the CPU cooler just above it. Nothing serious but notable.
I'd give this 5 stars for what it provided in terms of cooling, but am docking it a bit for the lack of any structural reinforcements and the problematic spacer issue. But no doubt part of the impressive cooling is just getting the FE out of the down parka that was the original plastic casing.
All in all I'm very happy with the vastly improved thermal performance and the quiet operation. But this was not a trivial install, which is why I included all of the long commentary. Good luck!
4.2/5
LOW NOISE: The Accelero Xtreme III cools very efficiently thanks to three ultra-quiet PWM fans. Overclockers has shown us the Accelero Xtreme III is 32 dBA quieter compared to the stock cooler. Thanks to the PWM control, the speed of all fans will adjust according to the temperature of the GPU and thus the noise level remains minimal as always. Click here to see how the PWM control settings can be changed according to your performance and noise preference.
Massive 300W of cooling power with triple 92mm PWM fans & efficient heatsink design
NEW FAN CONTROLLER: An improved fan controller and the use of additional filters guarantee a smooth operation with both NVIDIA and AMD graphics cards. Through software, the temperature-fan speed curve can be adjusted. No matter whether you are a hardcore-gamer or a silent enthusiast, you get the temperature and noise level exactly where you want it to be.
SUPERIOR COOLING PERFORMANCE: 5 premium quality copper heatpipes and the award-winning MX-4 thermal compound (pre-applied) conduct heat from the GPU efficiently to the 84-fin aluminum heatsink, meanwhile, the three 92mm PWM fans create massive airflow to bring unparallelled cooling performance, even when higher performance is required under overclocking. HardwareLuxx tested the Accelero Xtreme III in which it reduced the GPU temperature on a Gigabyte GTX 670 by 27 degrees more than the stock cooler did.
Versatile interchangeable mounting design supports a wide variety of VGAs from both nVidia& AMD
ENHANCED RAM AND VR COOLING: The Accelero Xtreme III comes with 31 RAM and VR heatsinks to keep your RAM and VR at optimal temperatures. The thermal adhesive facilitates heat dissipation of RAMs and VRs and offers a strong and lasting bond.
MULTI-COMPATIBILITY: It features a versatile and interchangeable mounting system with 31 RAM and VR coolers in different sizes and shapes to accommodate a wide range of graphics cards. Its compatibility with CrossFire and SLI is perfect for multi-VGA setups.
$234
I've had this installed a day now and the improvement in cooling is impressive. I recently picked up a used FE as an upgrade from my old but quiet card and the cooling in an FE is mediocre to say the least. After tuning all fans I routinely saw 72C while gaming and the card was noisy - running about 80% to maintain that 72C and the wife thought I was vacuuming instead of playing a game. While 72C is not an unreasonable temperature - the card throttles at about 83C - I wanted cooler and quieter and with a used card voiding the warranty was not an issue. After installing this the temperature peaks at about 51C - 20 degrees of improvement - and the card is silent. So mission achieved.
But here is what you should know before you do this -
- You need to completely remove the shell of the FE and the interior structural shelf and fan, etc. That involves removing every single tiny screw you can find - probably 30 or more of them - in many sizes. If you change your mind and want to go back it would be a challenge just managing the screws alone. Once you've stripped the card naked, you will be less impressed at what is really in that expensive card - not that much. You have to remove all of the backing as well. You need a jeweler's screwdriver, some very small Allen wrenches, and a very small nut driver. Didn't note the sizes, sorry.
- Then on to the thermal gluing. Use the old thermal squishy tape on the interior of the removed shell as a guide to where you need to glue the aluminum heat sinks. The kit includes a bunch of them so just pick what seems the best fit on each board element. It is delicate work. The kit also includes tiny clear insulating tape if you see a situation where the heat sink might touch something metal, but I didn't use any of it. Let it dry for an hour.
- Now you need to tape or glue the spacers to the mounting bracket in your new cooler. I didn't like this part of the design and thought there should be a better way - there are 3 different sizes of spacers and the double sided tape they included was impossible for me to get the second side backing off - you need surgeons hands and precision fingernails. So I didn't - I used the same thermal glue to glue the spacers (the 2.5mm ones that the 1080 uses) on top of the correct holes on the bracket. The spacers just need to stay in place long enough to mount the board to the cooler.
- Next connect the cooler fan cable to the 4 pin connector on the Nvidia board.
- Now with the cooler on it's back you lower the board onto the cooler and line up the 4 mounting holes to the glued spacers and put the supplied metal bracket over those holes - there is an almost invisible mylar coating on one side of the bracket and you want that downward because it is not conductive. Then there is a little foam piece you put on the underside of the bracket that also prevents the bracket from contacting the back side of the board. Put the 4 screws in, carefully tightening them in sequence and you are almost done. The cooler came with thermal paste already installed do you don't have to do anything there.
- That's it - just install the card back in your PC and cross your fingers. Use MSI Afterburner to tune your new fan curve.
A few more thoughts -
Note that the cooler is held in place with just those 4 screws hanging from the graphics card board, so this design is not great structurally - the original FE was built like a battleship and you are giving that up for a kit that is not that. For a PC in an office that doesn't move for years it will be fine, but I wouldn't strap your PC to an ATV where this thing might completely disintegrate from shaking. Installing an aftermarket graphics card support rail (that is what I did) will help but this is far more fragile than what I started with regardless. As this kit works with something like 30 different cards they don't include anything specific to any card, so any structural improvement must be improvised.
Also, with the backing gone you will want to spray out dust periodically - but then again this is no more exposed than your motherboard already is so that isn't a big deal, although the motherboard is vertical and therefore catches less dust than this will.
And finally, the FE exhausted all heat out the rear while this does not - the heat is sent into the case. You would think that would mean your case fans work harder but I found the opposite is true - my case fans are controlled by the "system" temperature measured by the motherboard and I found they barely come on now, where with the original FE they ran at a steady clip when gaming. So the original FE must have sent a lot of heat to the motherboard through the PCIe socket to drive up the system temperature. On the other hand, my CPU temps did rise a bit as the heat from this rises up towards the CPU cooler just above it. Nothing serious but notable.
I'd give this 5 stars for what it provided in terms of cooling, but am docking it a bit for the lack of any structural reinforcements and the problematic spacer issue. But no doubt part of the impressive cooling is just getting the FE out of the down parka that was the original plastic casing.
All in all I'm very happy with the vastly improved thermal performance and the quiet operation. But this was not a trivial install, which is why I included all of the long commentary. Good luck!
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