Best Furnace Replacement Circuit Boards in 2022

Last update: January 12, 2023

Can I replace my furnace control board?

If your furnace control board is malfunctioning, you may be able to replace it yourself. However, it is important to check with your furnace's manufacturer to see if they sell replacement control boards and, if so, whether your furnace model is compatible with the replacement board. If your furnace is not compatible with the replacement board, you may need to replace your entire furnace.

How do I know if my furnace control board is bad?

If your furnace is having trouble igniting, the control board may be to blame. You can test it with a multimeter to see if it's sending power to the igniter. If the igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, the control board may be defective.

How do you diagnose a circuit board?

A circuit board is a thin plate that holds electronic components. To diagnose a circuit board, you need to look for signs of damage, such as burnt or melted components, and listen for any unusual sounds. You should also check for loose connections and shorts. If you find any damage, you will need to replace the circuit board.

How do you reset a circuit board on a furnace?

If your furnace has a circuit board, you may need to reset it if the furnace isn't working properly. To reset the circuit board, first turn off the power to the furnace at the breaker. Then, remove the access panel and locate the circuit board. On the circuit board, you will see a red button. Press the button, and then replace the access panel. Turn the power back on at the breaker, and the furnace should reset.


Goodman B1809913S Board Review:


Although I usually turn off the natural gas during the summer, my 15-year-old Goodman air conditioner started clicking as the natural gas side attempted to switch on while the A/C was operating. The forced exhaust fan starts up, runs for a short period of time, and then stops. I used all the standard "I hope this works" techniques, such as tapping on all the relays in the hopes that something would stick. I disconnected and then reconnected all of the connectors after turning off the unit's power without success. I conducted online research in search of a solution (do not accept the first thing you find as a solution), read about other related issues, and ultimately came to the conclusion that this controller board might resolve the issue. The hundred fifteen was a reasonable compromise in comparison to calling a service provider. The only issue I had was that my thermostat's wiring didn't use the conventional colors. I won't go into detail, but I did check to see which colors were attached to the thermostat's common connectors, and that was helpful. I confirmed the power was still off after taking pictures with my cellphone and making notes on a notepad. To ensure that the money you save is actually saved, make sure you know how to turn off the electricity. As much as feasible, I disconnected each item separately and then replugged it in a handy location. Once everything was connected, I went over my notes and photos. After reassembling everything and pressing the interlock button, everything appeared to function. Because I didn't want a winter surprise on the heater side, I made sure I could switch on the natural gas and get the heater to work (even though it was in the midst of summer). I restarted the A/C checks after turning off the natural gas once more. The outside unit's start capacitor and relay will be replaced this fall if everything continues to function as it should. Maybe I'll have 20 years with this ancient machine before it breaks down. The Goodman board made good use of this money. I've read that certain generic message boards haven't always worked out properly. We appreciate everyone who leaves reviews. Hope this was helpful.



Goodman Parts PCBBF132S Control Board Review:


After installation, this replacement board immediately functioned flawlessly. Although it has a new layout and is a different color from the original (the old one is yellow and this one is green), all of the connections are still indicated. The installation process takes roughly 15 minutes. Although it could have been done more quickly, I went slowly on purpose to be cautious and ensure that the connections were made properly. You should use your smartphone to take numerous images of the installed board from various angles so you have them on hand for reference if needed. Instead of screws, plastic clips are used to install my board. Before disconnecting any wire connections, use needle nose pliers to remove the old board one at a time from the clips. By doing this, you'll be able to rotate the original board at various angles in order to identify the names of the wire connections before removing it. Take out and individually connect each wire from the old board to the new one. If you opt to remove the thermostat wires all at once, be careful since there can be more than one of the same hue, such as two red wires going to different terminals.BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE FURNACE'S POWER OR CIRCUIT BREAKER PRIOR TO WORKING ON IT!I'm done now!Initially, the inducer motor was running continuously without any request for heat due to an LED that said "pressure switch bad," but the furnace would not turn on. The pressure switch worked properly. The inducer motor relay on the control board was faulty, which was the issue. Someone advised me to tap on the side of the (formerly faulty) board to see whether the inducer motor's operation changed. The relay on the board started to burn and smoke right in front of me when it stopped and resumed.All of this is to indicate that this board is functional, easy to install without the need for specific knowledge, and will save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars compared to hiring a specialist to repair it.



White Rodgers 50A55-743 Control Board Review:


Exactly what I needed to replace my Goodman GMS8 HVAC system. The unit's original board, which was made in 2007, was 50T55-289. On this new board, there were a few extra terminals that I didn't use for my program. Nothing major. The new board features a programmable on/off delay as well.Study connections on the old board (I took photos for safety), then connect the new board precisely the same. Replacement is comparatively simple.Finding the defective board was difficult:-The first step is to search Google for the service manual for the specific equipment.-A little LED light on the control board will flash a predetermined number of times when the unit is experiencing issues to let you know where to start looking (in my instance, the heat wouldn't turn on and my LED would flash three times, suggesting a malfunctioning pressure switch). To interpret the LED flashes, a reference chart is provided in the service manual.-I used my Harbor Freight multimeter to verify the pressure switch, which was free with a coupon, and found that it was indeed closing when the inducer fan was running (obvious by voltage at both wire leads). This also implies that neither the flue vent duct nor the connection hose are blocked. Good pressure switch, but why were there three flashes?The ignitor comes next in the order. The ignitors frequently break, which makes them stop working. So, I unplugged my free Harbor Freight multimeter and used the probes to measure the resistance of the two wires: 68 ohms (spec is between 50 and 300, thus ignitor is fine) (spec is between 50 and 300, so ignitor is good).-The amount of voltage being transmitted to the ignitor is the last thing to test, so to speak. Ideally, 120 volts AC (and the control board decides when to send this during the cycle). Inducer fan starts, pressure switch closes, and the ignitor should be hot, however there is no electricity coming from the control board to the ignitor. Control board is bad, therefore: ( But nothing that Amazon can't repair for $45!Not having to pay the local HVAC Techs their obscene rates is what brings me the most happiness. For an hour and a half to two hours of my time, I am confident that I have saved many hundreds of dollars. Recently, they demanded $445 from me to replace a $10 capacitor! The following day, when the heat fails once more, they return and set the thermostat to "free." The heat still won't turn on, despite the nice thermostat!I'm not an HVAC technician, but right now I could play one on TV!



Suburban SB521099 3G Furnace Fan Control Board Review:


I bet that this circuit board would work with my Suburban sf-30f forced air furnace when I got it. (The fan failed to turn on.) There was a soft "click" from the furnace when I turned the thermostat to turn on the heat, and then nothing. (I think the original board's relay has failed; see method below.)I was quite hesitant to make this buy, but other reviews gave me confidence, so I took a chance. IT OPENS! There were two minor issues, though:The transformer found on the old, Fenwal board is absent from the new board. (Don't worry, it still functions.) The extension assembly that was included with this board was intended to address the fact that it was slightly smaller than the original by adding a third mounting point. It was too big! I attempted to drill a little hole in the aluminum support, but the supplied screw was too short (according to the instructions, I "think" it was supposed to be a self-drilling screw). NOT the case. I eventually left the board with only two locations of support. The only other choice was to attempt to jury-rig a support, which is not advised. The brass support post needs a tiny dab of J.B. Weld, but I didn't think of that until AFTER I had the item reassembled.Point of confusion: It took some investigation to get the proper wires on the right connectors because the push-on terminals were in a different location. When I realized that "Blo" stood for "blower" (and traced the red wire to the blower.) and "PWR" stands for "Power" (or 12 V, from the switch; naturally, the positive power lead wires on this furnace are blue rather than red, as they are on most manufactured products). I was able to move forward. The mating connectors on the wires will fit on either of the different-sized connections on the board.If it had otherwise fit, the metal extension would have come into touch with the blower wire ("BLO"), which would have resulted in a short circuit between the metal support piece and the blower connector. I was concerned that if I tried to force the plastic post through the mounting hole, I might crack the board because it was so tightly squeezed.The instructions state to "reuse the original cover over the board's spark coil tower," which is a minor issue. It doesn't fit because it has a slightly wider diameter than the new coil and needs to be somewhat "crunched" at the bottom to clear board components. After that, it just hangs there loosely.Analysis: It appears that the issue arose as a result of a short circuit between the wires to the over temp switch (on the rear side of the plenum) and the sharp edges of the furnace frame, possibly as a result of bad design and shoddy craftsmanship. The sharp edge of the wire's insulation was burned through, exposing the naked wire beneath the charred coating. I believe the relay's contacts burned off as a result of the arcing. The wires should have been ground soothed in the first place because they were too short and scraped on the sharp ends. I wrapped the wires in plastic electric tape, which caused them to be drawn firmly and hopefully prevent them from rubbing and shorting out once more as a result of vibrations. I should have spent the time to treat the jagged edges with something like J.B. Weld epoxy, in hindsight. I should have also taken the time to add a small amount of extra wire to provide some slack. Use wire that can withstand the high temperatures that will occur in the plenum if you want to do this. Approximately 140 °F



White Rodgers 50A55-843 Ignition Control Module Review:


I decided I could replace the control board in our Trane XE 80 (myself) after rapidly gathering some information from other "do it yourselfers" on YouTube and reading a few product reviews here at Amazon (which had a bad White Rogers 50A50-471 control board). When I turned on the appliance, I received an error code of 5 (five flashes), the fan would run continuously, and the heater flame was inconsistently lit. For the ignition issue, I had already changed a limit switch and a flame sensor earlier this week, but since the issue did not consistently go away, I figured that the original control board was probably involved.After receiving the new control board this afternoon, I quickly swapped out the old one and reconnected everything. I photographed and identified cables before removing the old control board. In order to mount the new control board, I also had to drill new holes in the metal panel of the heater. I then attached the new board to the heater and started wiring things up. (Yay!) Heat and air conditioning are working once more.Not everyone is a good candidate for a do-it-yourself project like replacing a control board. It definitely is NOT for novices. You must assess your own abilities and comfort level. For my own success, I would underline how crucial it was to read some of the reviews here and watch some of the YouTube videos in order to better appreciate the need for an additional connection between the RO1 and RO2 sockets on my Trane unit. My new control board came with a wire that I could use to accomplish this. Four wire extensions were also present (with connectors installed). They were life-saving "extras with the control board." During my installation, I had to utilize two of the wire extensions to connect old wires that couldn't get to their connector on the new control board.Finally, at $86 on Amazon, the price for this control board was lower than everywhere else (that I could locate). I had no issues configuring this product. Prior to putting the new control board to the test, I took my time and double-checked my work. I saved over $500 for the service call to install this board by doing the work myself as well (and who knows what other fees for the costs of another control board). Despite my initial reluctance, I am quite happy that I took on this task alone.



ICM Controls ICM2805A Furnace Control Replacement for Nor Dyne 624631 Control Boards, Used with G3, G4, G5, G6, M2 and M3 Furnace Modules Review:


I have a Frigidaire FG6RA 072C - 12A furnace.As a mechanical engineer, I have just enough knowledge of electronics to be harmful while using a multimeter.I was shocked at how pricey OEM replacement boards were when the circuit board in my furnace broke at the beginning of last fall. The only reason this very old technology was pricey was that no one anymore produced new OEM parts; instead, only refurbished parts were available. I spent hours looking for a replacement circuit board before finding this one.Naturally, while changing an electronic component, you have to consider whether the new component would exacerbate the issue; variations in voltage and current as well as altered circuit logic can all lead to issues. Because of the cost, I took a chance and am really happy I did.This board is far more durable than the OEM board in terms of construction. The resistors on the old board were actually melting the board away because of the bad soldering. The replacement board had excellent soldering, and the chips were coated with a laquer that, in my opinion, will make them weather-resistant. To reduce the possibility of damage during shipment, the entire set of equipment was carefully wrapped for transportation.COMPATIBILITY: The metal frame that this board arrived on was an exact replica of the one in my furnace. Because it had the same precise attachment locations, installation was simple. The image is true; all of the connections matched those in my furnace identically. I didn't require a different set of connectors, however they do offer a set just in case.FIRST AND FOREMOST: I have heat! The good life!Send me a message if you have any specific inquiries or require (unofficial) assistance with problem diagnosis, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!



OEM Upgraded Replacement for Goodman Furnace Vent Air Pressure Switch B13701-42 Review:


This lovely little switch needs more stars than there are available. Seriously.The furnace was not working. In Alabama, where my wedded wife lives, the temperature was dropping to 30, which is arctic. We recently got married and would be departing on our honeymoon the following week, so money is tight. We then phone the HVAC company that had placed a tag on the side of our furnace, crossing our fingers that the furnace was still covered by warranty.O, you mean? It has been out of warranty for about a year and a half. Oh, that's bad. You want to replace a furnace switch for $1143, you say? I'm not kidding when I say $1143. Even a basic furnace costs around $2,000. I'll be honest, I was this. Before my Spider-sense warned me to check Google, I was just about to hand over the credit card. We calmly conversed in private in front of the home and told the HVAC technician that we would think about it after seeing a range of pricing from $15 to $50 with my wife digging in her heels and almost taking a chair to the back of my head. The following day, I was able to retrieve the part number from the purportedly damaged switch and placed an order here. It came the evening before the cold snap started. Installation took me no more than five minutes; the search for a screwdriver took longer.Therefore, by making this decision, we were able to save roughly $1,000. $1000. I'll learn how to attempt to fix the blasted furnace for a grand.Ten stars and countless incredibly romantic date nights go to my wife. perhaps even a foot rub.



OEM Upgraded Replacement for Goodman Furnace Vent Air Pressure Switch B1370158 by Goodman Review:


Even though the model number wasn't the same, it was compatible and incredibly simple to install. It also arrived two days earlier than expected. It was very simple. 1 screw, 2 connections, and done



ICM Controls ICM280 Furnace Control Replacement for OEM Models Including Goodman B18099-xx Series Control Boards Review:


This is a good B18099-10 substitute. Even though it's not exactly the same board, it still functions flawlessly, and the instructions are detailed. Don't worry about the square white connector on this new board, as another reviewer advised. It comes with a plug that is simple to connect to the thermostat connectors. Just a few wire nuts need to be completed. The instructions cover everything. When you are finished and turn it back on, you should be aware that there may be a delay of 5 to 10 seconds before anything happens, whereas with the old board, or at least with mine, the draft-inducing blower would turn on right away. I was contemplating what I could have done wrong and thinking that the replacement was a failure when it started to work. Since then, it has operated flawlessly. I was attempting to address an intermittent issue where the furnace would occasionally start up and then abruptly shut off. Among other things, I tried a new flame sensor, but it remained flaky. I would also recommend moving the wires from the old board to the new one at a time rather than detaching them completely from the old board and reconnecting them to the new. One at a time seems to make it much simpler to keep them straight. I would also advise taking numerous pictures of all the wiring before you begin, just in case you need to remember how it appeared at first.



White-Rodgers 50A55-843 White Rodgers Universal Integrated Fan Control for Hsi Systems Review:


I eagerly placed my order after learning that it was a universal controller board that could operate just about anything. But my first attempts to persuade my wife to wear it were a complete failure. I then attempted to install it in a York furnace after that failure. The smoke had emanated from a 50A50-230 board that was within. The use of the board in this way was excellent. Nobody ever would have guessed that it might be used in a furnace. Before disconnecting the old module, I took a few pictures and a video to document the wire placement. The module's width was the same but its height was shorter. The board's back is now completely exposed, rather than being covered in plastic, which is another obvious change.


How long should a furnace circuit board last?

A furnace circuit board should last for many years, provided it is properly maintained. Regular cleaning and inspection of the board will help to prolong its life. Additionally, replacing any damaged or worn parts will also help to keep the board in good working condition.

How many times can I hit the reset button on my furnace?

If your furnace is having issues and you hit the reset button and it doesn't stay on, there could be a few different issues. The first thing you should check is your furnace filter. A clogged filter can cause your furnace to overheat and trip the reset button. If the filter is clean and the furnace still won't stay on, you may need to reset the circuit breaker. If the furnace still doesn't stay on, there could be a problem with the furnace itself and you should call a professional.

How much does a circuit board cost?

A circuit board typically costs around $5, though this price can vary depending on the size and complexity of the board. If you need a custom-made board, the cost will be higher.

How much does a new furnace cost?

A new furnace can cost anywhere from $2,000 to $8,000, depending on the size and type of furnace you need.

How much does it cost to repair a circuit board?

It depends on the severity of the damage and the type of circuit board. Generally speaking, repairing a circuit board can cost anywhere from $50 to $200.

How much does it cost to replace a heater circuit board?

If your heater isn't working, one possible issue is a faulty circuit board. Replacing a circuit board can be expensive, costing around $200 or more. To avoid this cost, try troubleshooting the issue yourself or hiring a professional to do it for you.