Best Electrical Ballasts in 2022

Last update: January 20, 2023

Can a ballast cause a fire?

A ballast can cause a fire if it is not functioning properly. If the ballast is not providing the correct amount of power to the light, the light can overheat and start a fire.

Can a fluorescent light work without a ballast?

Fluorescent lights need a ballast to work. The ballast provides the initial surge of electricity to start up the light and then regulates the current to the bulb.

Can ballast be repaired?

Yes, ballast can be repaired if it is not too damaged. Damaged ballast can cause problems with the electrical system in your home, so it is important to have it repaired as soon as possible.

Do you need to turn the breaker off to change a ballast?

No, you do not need to turn the breaker off to change a ballast. You can simply unscrew the old ballast and screw in the new one.


Philips Advance ICN-2P32-N 32W T8, 120/277V Electronic Fluorescent Ballast, 2 Lamp Review:


I installed one of these Advanced electronic ballasts that functioned exactly like the one that was already there, making no noise and lighting up swiftly and flicker-free. I urge anyone who needs them to get these. Since I've heard that these new electronic ballasts don't perform as well as the previous ballasts and, if that's true, burn out more quickly, I decided to keep the other for my stock. The ballast didn't live as long as the lights because the fixture in which I fitted them is only a couple of years old and the bulbs have never been changed. I was happy to learn that Amazon sold Advance ballasts because the fixture didn't have one. It's actually too early to tell from this assessment whether they'll outlast the original or not, but it didn't die right away, which is extremely pleasant.



ROBERTSON 3P20116 eBallast, Instant Start, NPF, 1 or 2 Lamp F32T8, 120Vac, 60 Hz, Model ISU232T8120 BA (Replaces Robertson 3P20003, Model ISU232T8120 /B) Review:


Around the home, I've been replacing the outdated T12 magnetic fixtures with T8 LEDs. When turned on, the first few ballasts I bought (from reputable brands) produced terrible FM radio interference throughout the entire home. Despite my assurances that they had excellent grounds, they appeared to be back-feeding the interference into the wiring. Because I didn't know the Robertson brand, I initially decided against ordering the ballasts. Boy, was I wrong. I clinched my teeth when I turned on the switch after the first Robertson ballast was fitted since I was expecting terrible radio static, yet there was absolutely no difference. The radio was extremely clear, and the lights turned on flawlessly. They are more affordable than the alternatives, they operate flawlessly, and there is NO interference. You won't be sorry if you purchase these first.



ROBERTSON 3P20135, IEA432T8120N /B Fluorescent eBallast for 4 F32T8 Linear Lamps, Instant Start, 120Vac, 60Hz, Normal Ballast Factor, NPF (Replaces Robertson Model ISL432T8120 /B) Review:


To replace a Phillips/Advance unit I installed four years ago, I bought this ballast. (REB-4P32-SC) My fixture is powered by four 32W T8 bulbs. Without any problems, the unit fit into the fixture, and the replacement process took around 10 minutes. Immediately after finishing, the lights turned on. Not a sound at all. The mounting tabs on both ends of the ballast were bent when it arrived from Amazon, which is the only thing I could find wrong with it. To enable the installation of the ballast, I had to hammer them flat. I decided to still give it five stars because it has no effect on performance. Using inexpensive plastic wire connections as part of the installation is an excellent idea. A product cross-reference sheet is available on Robertson's website if you're unsure which ballast will replace your current one. Ideally, I will use this electrical ballast for more than 4 years. Even with routine bulb replacement, 4 years seems pitiful. In contrast, a big box retailer's price for a GE ballast equivalent to this one is /- $19.00.



Robertson 3P20132 Fluorescent eBallast for 2 F40T12 Linear Lamps, Preheat- Rapid Start, 120Vac, 50-60Hz, Normal Ballast Factor, NPF, Model RSW234T12120 /A (Crosses to 3P20010 Model RSW240T12120 /B) Review:


If you're even the slightest bit mechanically minded, replacing is really straightforward. Compared to the OEM ballasts I changed, these particular ballasts are smaller. Concerning drilling new mounting holes and such, I was unconcerned. I had the good fortune to only use one of the mounting screws from the old ballast to secure them. Yes, if they were going to be used frequently, but they aren't. The ballast was securely fastened in place by just one mounting screw while I worked.There is DEFINITELY plenty of available wiring, so you'll find yourself cutting it. The existing bulb sockets' slip lock wire terminals were also useful to me. Because of this plus my ability to read wiring diagrams, I was able to jumper the yellow sockets and avoid using any wire nuts on anything other than the input power cable.After installation, there was no hesitation at all before the lights turned on. That alone was a benefit because my previous ones took a few seconds to turn on. Furthermore, while the lights are on, there is no humming or buzzing. The ancient ballasts, if memory serves, buzzed right away. When I flip the switch on them, all I see is a brilliant, silent, flicker-free light. I anticipated having to replace a few of my old bulbs because they were getting quite dim. It was definitely a surprise to learn that all I needed to do to restore the light's brightness after replacing the ballasts was to wipe a moist towel over the bulbs to remove any dust.You won't be dissatisfied with these if you need a ballast for a twin T-12, 40w bulb light. They were just installed, so if anything changes, I'll update. I couldn't be happy right now.



PHILIPS LIGHTING ICN4P32N 3/4F17-F32 Elec Ballast Review:


This was delivered to me in a lightning-quick manner! This is what I ordered for the kitchen's huge overhead 4-light flourescent fixture. When all four bulbs failed simultaneously, there was no issue with the circuit breaker or the light switch controlling that light, so I knew something was amiss. I made the decision to try replacing the ballast myself despite never having done so before (though I had heard of the term). I have some experience with electronics, but because I am on disability, it took me a little longer than it would have for someone in better physical condition. Nevertheless, I completed the task after watching the instructions on a YouTube video. The most crucial step is to make a note of the wire connections and create a diagram for when the ballast is removed. If there are no wire connectors, you actually cut the wires if the ballast has never been replaced. I had some cables that weren't cut and some that were attached after being cut. Getting the clips and overhead lid to open and snap back into place was one of the other challenges. Due to their positioning being so close to the backplate and ballast, removing the fluorescent bulbs was also a little challenging. Before putting the wires inside the middle cover, I tied them all together using twist ties. This was a bit challenging because I had to stand on a step stool with my hands in the air. Most likely nothing at all to do with a younger person who is accustomed to performing this kind of thing. When I connected everything, flipped on the switch, and light came on, I was so relieved! Before replacing all the covers, make sure the light is on; you wouldn't want to have to start over if a connection was made incorrectly. The overall difficulty of this project is moderate.



Universal Basic 12 B234SR120MA (2) Lamp - F40T12 or F34T12 - 120 Volt - Rapid Start - 0.9 Ballast Factor Review:


Although much lighter and narrower, it is the same length. In my situation, a nut and a screw secured the other end while the other end slid into a few slots. I removed the one screw, and since this one was the same length, it easily went into position.The wires, however, are not long enough to connect to the sockets on the tombstones. Therefore, cutting the color-coded wires and reinstalling them color for color are the next steps. There are two of each color; it makes no difference which one is which, so attach one yellow to one wire before attaching the other yellow to the other wire. Connect the two yellow wires coming out of this device separately, only one to one. Replicate this for blue first, then red. The use of wire nuts would be required by code for these connections. 8 wire nuts 18 ga. are required.When there are only three pairs of output wires, why utilize eight when you can just use three? As a result of the absurdly short input wires, you might need to expand them. Where will you buy extension wire? Use the old one's cut black and white wires as extension wire. Using electrical tape and twisting the wires together would not be code-compliant.



Advance 10289 - ICF-2S26-H1-LD Compact Fluorescent Ballast Review:


A Lorex camera system with a 2 TB hard disk was fitted. On my system, the first drive occupied itself after a week or so. I obtained a manufacturer's price for a 6 TB drive. Then I searched, and a drive that seemed to be identical surfaced on Amazon for $100 less. I decided to get it because of Amazon's return policy and test it out to see whether it worked. About 10 minutes were spent on the installation, and the system properly booted. When buying non-OEM parts for a system, you never know, but this one worked.



ROBERTSON 3P20158 ISL296T12MV Fluorescent Electronic Ballast for 2 F96T12 Linear Lamps, Instant Start, 120-277Vac, 50-60Hz, Normal Ballast Factor, HPF Review:


My first electronic ballast, as I recall, lasted for about a week. Because I didn't wire it properly, I burned it up. Here's how to change two 8-foot T12 bulbs.Cut the wires and remove the old ballast. Put a fresh ballast in the fixture. I always use star washer screws for a good ground or remove the paint from the new ballasts' feet.Connect the RED and BLUE wires from the lamps to the RED wire from the ballast.The long BLACK and WHITE cables should be kept apart from the small BLACK and WHITE power supply wires. Connect the two long WHITE wires from the lamps to the one BLUE wire from the ballast.Connect the additional BLUE wire from the ballast to the 2) long BLACK wires of the bulbs.After that, connect BLACK to BLACK and WHITE from the ballast to the short WHITE power supply.The ballast wires are too short, which is why I only gave it 4 stars. You will require an additional 4 feet of wire. Any shade will work. Remember to use wire nuts.



Sylvania / Osram 49908 - QTP4X32T8/UNV-ISN-SC-B T8 Fluorescent Ballast Review:


2 were bought to replace old Motorola ballasts that had been used for more than 10 years at 8 hours per day. These are also very affordable, costing just under 50% of what home improvement stores charge for them and only a third of what a lighting store would charge.These inserted with ease. Since the wires are connected to the ballast, I only needed to unplug the cables from the ends of the bulb sockets.It is almost impenetrable. The bulb has red wires on one end and yellow wires on the other. Additionally, a blue wire with a yellow end is attached to the other pair of lights. Simply follow the wiring diagram on the bulb to ensure that red and blue are not on the same bulbs.Since installing both ballasts, I bought two more to have on hand as spares. One of the replacement ballasts did have a defective bulb, but it was quite forgiving. It started running once you installed a new bulb. The older ones appear to be destroyed by defective bulbs. Sylvania appears to be quite durable. They perform admirably. In fact, to make replacement simple, I have a spare fixture that is already wired with a new ballast. Although having a replacement fixture and laying out the cables in advance is not actually necessary, it works in my shop.The only improvement I could think of is that I ought to have purchased all 4. However, delivery was quite inexpensive. And I'll order these once more.


How do you check a ballast without removing it?

To check a ballast without removing it, you'll need to use a multimeter to test the continuity of the ballast. First, locate the ballast's input wires and test for continuity between the two. If the ballast is good, the multimeter will beep. If there is no continuity, the ballast is bad and needs to be replaced.

How do you know if a ballast is going bad?

A ballast is an electronic device that regulates the current in an inductive load, such as a fluorescent lamp. A bad ballast will cause the fluorescent lamp to flicker or not start at all.

How long do electronic ballasts last?

How much does it cost to replace an electrical ballast?

Replacing an electrical ballast is not a difficult task, but it can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. The cost of the replacement ballast will vary depending on the type of ballast you need and where you purchase it. You can expect to pay anywhere from $15 to $50 for a replacement ballast.

Is it cheaper to replace ballast or fixture?

There is no definitive answer, as it depends on the specific circumstances. In some cases, it may be cheaper to replace the ballast, while in others it may be cheaper to replace the entire fixture. Ultimately, the best way to determine which option is more cost-effective is to consult with a qualified electrician.

What are the signs of a bad ballast?

There are a few signs that may indicate a bad ballast: -The light fixture flickers or makes strange noises -The light bulb does not light up at all, or is very dim -The light fixture feels unusually hot to the touch If you notice any of these signs, it is best to replace the ballast as soon as possible. Continuing to use a bad ballast can cause further damage to the light fixture and may be a fire hazard.