Best Dryer Replacement Parts in 2022

Last update: January 17, 2023

Can you repair a dryer by yourself?

A dryer is a household appliance that many people use on a daily basis. Over time, dryers can experience issues that require repairs. Some dryer repairs can be completed by the homeowner, while others require the assistance of a professional. If your dryer is not working properly, the first step is to check the lint filter. A clogged lint filter can prevent the dryer from operating correctly. If the lint filter is clean, the next step is to check the dryer vent. A clogged vent can cause the dryer to overheat and potentially

How do you fix a dryer that won't dry?

If your dryer is not drying your clothes, there are several things you can check to try and fix the problem. First, make sure that the dryer is getting power by checking the circuit breaker or fuse box. If the dryer is getting power, the next thing to check is the lint screen. A clogged lint screen can prevent the dryer from drying clothes properly. If the lint screen is clear, the next thing to check is the vent. A clogged vent can also prevent the dryer from drying clothes properly. If the vent is clear, the

How do you know if your dryer is going bad?

If your dryer is taking longer than usual to dry clothes, it may be going bad. Another sign is if your clothes come out of the dryer wrinkled or damp. If you notice any of these problems, it's best to call a repairman to take a look at your dryer.

How many years should a dryer last?

A dryer should last for around 13 years, provided it is well maintained. To keep your dryer lasting as long as possible, be sure to regularly clean the lint trap and exhaust duct and to keep the area around the dryer free of debris.


3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse - Replacement Part for Whirlpool and Kenmore Exact Fit DR Quality Parts 3388651 WP3392519VP 694511 Review:


Dead electric dryer is once more operational. The replacement part was ordered on Thursday night and arrived on Saturday about noon. dryness signs: Several times following a drying cycle, wet clothing were discovered in the dryer. I believed that the heating element was about to fail or that I was getting old (possibly not pushing start button after loading up wet clothes). I hit the start button for the dryer for the third time, but nothing happened. After then, the dryer was dead. Using my Digital Volt Meter (DVM), I checked the dryer's wall outlet for 240 VAC (good). *** WHEN TESTING 240VAC, BE VERY CAUTIOUS. IF YOU ACCIDENTALLY TOUCH IT, YOU WILL DIE. The dryer's electric cord was unplugged. I removed the screws from the top rear plate in order to check the timer and the start switch continuity. The start switch tested successfully across both leads (0 Ohms). On a piece of paper inside the lid, I discovered a schematic for the start switch and timer access (top rear dryer cover). I placed a blanket on top of the dryer's front. I removed the dryer's larger lower back cover. Lots of lint was present just inside the cover (about 15 years worth of lint). I swept up the lint. I uncovered the blower motor (big black cover for the air tunnel from the lint screen, dryer drum air exhaust, cover for the blower motor, and the air outlet at the bottom of the dryer). In the lowest portion of the blower motor region, there was a large ball-sized clump of lint. I took it out and cleaned up the lint with a vacuum. The dryer thermal fuse was tested. It's the tiny, white sensor that's about an inch long on this dryer and has blue wires coming out of both ends. On the blower motor housing, it is in the upper right corner. It came back as an open circuit during testing (bad). It need to be a brief (0 Ohms). I placed an order for thermal fuse 3392519. The dryer is once again in use. Got the part from Amazon Prime in a few days for less than $6.00. Much better than spending money on a new dryer or having someone come out to fix it.



3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse - DIY Replacement Part by Blue Stars - Exact Fit for Whirlpool Kenmore Dryers - Replaces 3388651 694511 80005 WP3392519VP Review:


The dryer wasn't turning off when you closed the door, which was the first problem my wife noticed (even after 3 hours.) Then we discovered the dryer had NO HEAT. Oh no! What is this?After doing some research online about similar issues generally and our vintage Whirlpool gas dryer from around 2000 (model number LGR3624JQ0), I discovered that this thermal fuse is typically the most likely offender... and should be an easy replacement. Could it be?So I figured why not give it a shot since I found the right part here on Amazon from BlueStars for $5.94? After the item arrived two days later, I set to work by following some instructions I saw on YouTube. Pulling the dryer out of the wall after unplugging it (ours is gas, but fortunately we have a long enough gas line that I could pull the dryer out far enough to get behind it and work without having to disconnect the line.)I removed all nine or so screws that were positioned around the back panel using a 1/4-inch socket and set it aside. The hardest part of the job, which I also had to do, turned out to be disconnecting the dryer vent; I'll talk more about it shortly. I quickly located the thermal fuse after removing the back panel. Removed the one screw holding it and the two wires that were attached to it using the 1/4-inch socket. The dryer vent pipe became a major headache after everything was reversed from this point on. The skinny pipe that protrudes from the dryer's back appears to only extend past the back panel by a half-inch or so. It was, to put it mildly, difficult to get the hose placed on that little location and the clamp tightened to hold the hose to the vent pipe. I eventually *did* complete it after many failed attempts and foul language. My wife carefully pushed the dryer back into position while I firmly held it in place.Overall, though, this was a fairly simple task, and amazingly, this CHEAP item fixed everything! The dryer is once more operating perfectly. I have no idea how much fixing it would have cost, but I am certain that it would have exceeded the sum of less than $6 that I paid.Don't be intimidated if, like me, you have never done anything similar. These things aren't as difficult or intimidating as they might initially seem. Right after I fixed the fuse, I also changed the drum belt, idler pulley, and rear drum rollers, but that's another review (and another rather simple fix!) You may save a ton of money and feel proud of your increased level of independence with just a little bit of research and the appropriate mindset.Good luck and successful drying!



Dryer Door Switch Replacement Fits for Whirlpool Dryer, Maytag & Kenmore Dryer, Replaces 3406107, 3406109 Review:


The dryer door switch has the same appearance as the original. As a result, connections and setup went without a hitch. In less than 10 minutes, I completed the task.Due to the installation taking place only four days ago, durability could not be rated. However, we have repeatedly used the dryer without any problems.If this persists, I will check in.This component helped to save money. Based on the cost of a part supplier ($20.33) and the estimated cost of an $85.00 house call, I was able to save $15.00.



Deflecto Supurr-Vent Louvered Outdoor Dryer Vent Cover, 4 Inches Hood, White (HS4W/18) Review:


This matched my outdoor dryer vent cover exactly (1998 construction). Four screws are used to affix this cover to the outside, and the plastic rim fits over the exhaust pipe. Every 10 to 15 years, the plastic flaps need to be replaced because they deteriorate over time.Oddly enough, this was *not* a match for a bathroom exhaust vent on the same property that had a comparable size. The outward frame of the bathroom exhaust is the same size, but varied sized flaps are caulked into place. I think it might be a vent cover with a pipe stub attached that's intended to connect to a flexible exhaust line (rather than fitting a rigid pipe like this cover). In that case, this cover won't be effective.Keep that possibility in mind if you're replacing a bathroom exhaust.It was good to see this part on sale here because my neighborhood big-box no longer carries it. Recommended.



Samsung Heating Element Dc47-00019A Review:


My Samsung dryer would operate, but there was no heat, like everyone else has mentioned. After doing some short internet research, I learned that a burnt out element was a regular problem with these guys, so I ordered one of these bad boys through Amazon Prime (also known as Magic). It arrived at my front door a day later.I therefore made the decision to do this task alone. There weren't many "Samsung Authorized" repair shops in my region, and the majority of them wanted diagnosis fees and other nonsense, so the figure I received over the phone for the installation was about $300, which seemed exorbitant. I reasoned that because $300 buys a LOT of beer, I might as well give it a shot myself.Therefore, I would give the installation a 3–4 on a scale of 1–10. The ability to reliably put together a child's toy and then install a light-dimmer would be comparable to that required for this, as the hardest part is truly disassembling and being sure that the dryer is unplugged. Although it is not necessary, I actually discovered a video online showing how to install from the rear of the dryer. The dryer's front can be disassembled VERY quickly. The element box must be removed carefully, and the thermostats must be correctly reconnected.Quick Actions:1. Remove the top's screws (on the back of the dryer). Lift the lid.2. Remove the control panel's screws. Unplug (Mine had 2 plugs) (Mine had 2 plugs).



279838 Dryer Heating Element for Whirlpool Roper Kenmore Dryer Heating Element Parts 3392519 3977393 Thermal Fuse & 3387134 3977767 Dryer Thermostat (279838 Replaces 8565582,AP309425,3398064,3403585) Review:


what I required to restart my Maytag and get it going! I only purchased my dryer three short years ago, so purchasing a brand-new dryer or set was simply not an option. Being an electrician, my husband was able to test the components beforehand to determine what we needed. To ensure your safety, I would advise being aware of what you're doing or watching a YouTube video first. My washer functions otherwise like it's fresh new!



Dryer Heating Element(DC47-00019A)for Samsung, Thermal Fuse( DC96-00887A) and (DC47-00016A), Thermostat (DC47-00018A )Dryer Repair Kit Replacement Review:


The part numbers for Samsung can be a little bit confusing, but once I realized the part I was looking at was the correct one, I didn't think twice. I got this at a terrific bargain; one store I looked had it for more than $100. When I called a nearby brick-and-mortar store, they were unable to provide me with any information. When I called a repair business, they informed me that the cost of the repair would undoubtedly exceed $200.Thanks to Amazon, the part I bought arrived by 6:00 PM that day! This was the first time I had ordered something from Amazon, and it arrived the same day. By 9:00 PM, the dryer was fixed, well cleaned, and drying garments that I had torn into. For the past week or so, it has been operating flawlessly.This is the way to go if you're like me and don't mind getting your hands dirty while saving a ton of money. A screwdriver, pliers, an Ohmmeter (only needed to test the thermostats), and a vacuum were the only tools I used. You can save some time and energy if you don't want to test the thermostats and are positive that the only problematic heating element is the one in question.I'm hoping that by sharing this review, both you and someone like myself can save money.



Whirlpool 4392067 Dryer Repair Kit Review:


After several years of ownership, my dryer suddenly began emitting a loud screaming sound. Based on a brief internet search, I deduced that the problem was probably poor roller bearings or belt slippage, both of which this kit may fix simultaneously.The wife would undoubtedly want a new matching washer as well, so I figured it was worth a chance and a few hours of my time to acquire this kit. The kit arrived promptly, allowing me to get started with only a few days' worth of laundry piling up.I found a video on YouTube that was produced by an appliance parts company that walked through the majority of the steps. The front panel on my dryer was a little more difficult to remove, but overall the video was quite helpful in terms of the steps it presented and the order in which to disassemble and reassemble.I most certainly advise attempting this method as opposed to purchasing a new dryer. I probably spent three hours in all disassembling and reassembling everything. I took the time to clear away the dust and lint that had gathered over the years even though I wasn't really in a rush.In order to reduce issues during re-assembly, I also took pictures of various components during disassembly, such as wiring harnesses (there are a couple both above and below, and I believe one may be in the rear if I recall), before disconnecting them.There aren't many other things to mention. A nut driver is almost always required for screws, so having one makes everything a lot simpler. The dryer's construction appeared to have employed 3 different types of machine screws. The majority are of one type, so simply make a note of the ones that are marginally different so that they may be placed back where they belong. One of the wire harnesses that runs up the left front of the vehicle was also overlooked, and it fell beneath the roller drum. I had to slightly remove the vehicle in order to catch it and bring it back up. Make sure the rollers are properly seated when you re-mount the drum on them (the video I found also emphasized this), that the felt around the drum's front and back creates a good seal (this will also show you that the rollers are properly seated), and check to see that the drum rotates freely. I wasn't sure whether my seal was adequate, but it was OK after I tightened everything up. As you build the dryer further and tighten all the bolts, the felt seal becomes even more secure so that your air is not seeping out. My repaired dryer was actually quieter than it had been in a while, with fewer squeaks and other noises, so that was fantastic.Overall, it doesn't require a lot of talent; I consider my mechanical aptitude to be average, and I had no issues by following some simple planning procedures. I'll publish images, but don't be alarmed by them. This is a rather simple process. Good fortune!



LG Electronics ADQ56656401 Dryer Lint Filter Assembly Review:


I bought this dryer lint filter because I thought it would stop my clothing from catching on my old lint filter. I also got the dryer lint frame and dryer linter filter guide based on other Amazon reviews. NO ONE OF THESE PIECES WAS REQUIRED TO FIX THE PROBLEM. As another Amazon reviewer mentioned, the heavy buildup of lint at the bottom of the assembly, where the lint filter is positioned, was the only factor contributing to the clothes snagging issue. I was able to remove a significant amount of compacted lint from the bottom of the lint filter housing using a fine wire coat hanger and a vacuum with a very narrow hand attachment. I was able to fully enclose the filter in the frame after removing the lint such that its upper corners were concealed. I advise you to carefully inspect the bottom of the lint filter housing before ordering any parts. To do this, you might need a flashlight. What you find could surprise you. Even though I didn't actually need this new filter, it did arrive in good condition and resemble the original component. Hence, the rating of five stars. Finally, I should mention that if the heat caused your original parts to distort, you might actually need to replace them.



BetterVent Indoor Dryer Vent Kit - Protect Indoor Air Quality and Save Energy with a Superior Dryer Lint Filter(Electric Dryers Only) Review:


Ours was installed this morning by my husband, and I'm already impressed. The dryer was vented up a tube in the wall and out of a vent on the roof when our house was built. My husband vented the dryer into the garage since he didn't like cleaning out the tube, but the lint seemed to be spreading everywhere despite the use of a lint catcher. The installation was quite simple, and it appears that this will fix the issue.UPDATEThis has been in use by us for a few weeks, and we are pleased with it. The manufacturer should just modify the replaceable filter, in our opinion. After installing the vent and weighing the filter door as directed and experimenting with various filters, we came to the following conclusions:(1) The included replaceable filters for the vent are too light and nearly hard to clean. After just three loads, the door to change your filter popped open with very little lint on it.(2) I then tried using just the metal filter, but that didn't work either; instead, it blew tiny lint flecks all over the car and into the garage. I had to clean up the mess with a Swiffer duster.(2) After that, I tried a washable filter that was 3/4 inch thick and cut from an air conditioner (about the same thickness as the filters that came with the vent), and while it was simpler to clean, the filter change door popped out after 6 loads with a fair amount of lint in the filter.(3) The change your filter door didn't pop up until 10 loads, or a week's worth of laundry, but it was the easiest to clean and it was a 1/4 inch thick washable air conditioner filter. In order to save a significant amount of money compared to buying the filters directly from the manufacturer, I will buy the 1/4 inch a/c filter and cut many filters for the vent. Additionally, they perform far better than the ones the manufacturer offers.The installation in the garage with the change your filter door popped up, the metal filter, and the 1/4 inch a/c filter after 10 loads (1 week) of laundry are shown in the photographs below. This seems to be the ideal mix for maximizing effectiveness and extending the time between filter changes.Second update, 10/20/16I've included a photo of the filters I tried out. The ones on top, in green and black, function best. The blue filter (I tried 1/4 in. and 1/2 in.) was just as awful as the one the manufacturer supplied. There are fewer loads with a denser filter. The two lighter/less dense filters performed just as well at blocking lint as the denser filters at doing so.Picture-related filters1) The cheapest whole-house air-conditioning filter my husband could find is what the green filter is from. The thickness is roughly 1/8 inch. It had to be taken out of the cardboard frame it was packaged in by my husband. About 10 loads of this worked just as well as the black filter. These must be thrown away after use as they are not at all washable.2) The black filter was the cheapest and performed just as well as the green filter over the course of around 10 loads. It is a foam window unit a/c filter. This was the most washable, but because they are so inexpensive, I usually just throw them away after using them once.3) I tried 1/4 inch thick and 1/2 inch thick versions of the dense fiberglass or natural hog hair that makes up the blue filter. The dryer vent's manufacturer's vent performed equally poorly as the one that was only 1/2 inch thick. The 1/4 version operated a little better. They should be washable, perhaps with a power washer.4) The manufacturer's filter is the white/blue one; I received the fewest loads using it (together with the 1/2-inch blue filter) and it isn't particularly washable.Update 3 - Magnet Weights - 03/26/2017I've discovered that as the glue on the magnet weights deteriorates over time, the magnets drop into the vent. I advise placing the magnets on the top of the pop-up flap rather than the bottom. It still serves as a highly effective dryer venting solution for me; possibly only a few design tweaks are required.Revision 4 07/22/2017More images of my filter solution have been uploaded. The best Flanders Easy Flow green filters are available at Walmart for a low price ($2.94 for a package of four 20x25x1 fiberglass air filters). (I was unable to locate these on Amazon.) From one large filter, just cut off six filters by pulling off the cardboard. Use caution since fiberglass can stab you; using gloves while cutting can solve this issue.Increase the unit's filter count by two, as I advised in a previous update. Every week to week and a half, I change the one nearest to the air flow. The second a few times every month. You can see how effectively this captures the lint in the photographs I've included, preventing it from escaping into my garage.I still strongly recommend Vent, just not their filters and magnet weights; nevertheless, via trial and error, good alternatives were discovered.


How much does it cost to replace a dryer drum?

It can cost anywhere from $60 to $200+ to replace a dryer drum. The cost will depend on the make and model of your dryer, where you purchase the replacement drum, and if you hire a professional to install it.

How much should it cost to fix a dryer?

The cost to fix a dryer can vary depending on the problem. However, most repairs will cost between $100 and $200.

Is 8 year old dryer worth repairing?

No, an 8 year old dryer is not worth repairing. The average lifespan of a dryer is 10-13 years, so your dryer is already nearing the end of its life. Additionally, the cost of repairs is likely to be more than the cost of a new dryer. Therefore, it is not worth repairing an 8 year old dryer.

Is it better to fix or replace a dryer?

When a dryer breaks down, it can be difficult to decide whether to repair or replace it. There are several factors to consider, including the cost of the repair, the age and condition of the dryer, and the availability of replacement parts. If the dryer is old and parts are difficult to find, it may be better to replace it. If the cost of the repair is high, it may also be better to replace the dryer. However, if the dryer is still in good condition and the repair is not too expensive, it may be worth fixing it

Is it worth fixing a broken dryer?

It really depends on the issue. If it's something minor, like a blown fuse, it may be worth fixing. However, if it's something major, like a broken heating element, it may be more cost effective to just buy a new dryer.

What are the parts in a dryer?

A dryer consists of a drum in which laundry is tumbled as hot air circulates around it. The hot air is produced by a gas burner or an electric element. A dryer also has a lint screen, a thermostat, a timer, and a limit switch.