If your radiator is full of rust and sediment, a flush can loosen the debris and clog your engine's cooling system. If you use the wrong type of cleaner, you could also damage your radiator.
If you are using the wrong type of coolant, it can damage plastic. The wrong type of coolant can cause the plastic to become brittle and break.
Yes, you can add coolant straight to the radiator as long as the coolant is the same type as what is already in the radiator. Be sure to check the level of coolant in the radiator before adding more.
Yes, you can use antifreeze as coolant, but it is not recommended. Antifreeze is poisonous and can cause serious health problems if ingested. It is also corrosive and can damage your car's engine.
4.6/5
Subaru OEM Coolant System Conditioner
$234
I purchased this for my son's 2005 Subaru Forester because he reported losing antifreeze but neither I nor he could locate a leak. We discovered that we weren't the only ones experiencing this issue after searching YouTube. The other option was to add this to the radiator (the radiator, not the overflow tank), and the components inside this bottle are the same as Rad Weld in Europe and are intended to seal the head gasket where it leaks inside the cylinder wall. One of the fixes required spending $2,000 on new head gaskets and water pumps (reason for no noticeable leaks). Some people here claimed that it took two bottles to stop the apparent antifreeze loss. When I asked my son about his car last week, he reported that he had not needed to add any more antifreeze and that it now seemed to be keeping level. I had supplied 1.5 bottles to his vehicle. Since he had a radiator cover on it, I actually changed it at the same time. I noted it had a 13-pound cap although Subaru advised a 16-pound cap, so I'm not sure whether this caused any issues with coolant leakage, but my son never complained about overheating or losing antifreeze from the overflow tank area. He purchased the vehicle used in October of last year. As I previously noted, the coolant system conditioner appears to function as others have suggested it would, so rather than shelling out $2,000 or more for a new head gasket, I would advise purchasing this first. If you can find your missing coolant leak, it might be money well spent.
4.6/5
Replaces yellow-colored Motorcraft gold antifreeze/coolant meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1
Designed to replace additives depleted between coolant change-outs
Genuine OEM
Now dyed yellow to eliminate engine coolant color change when mixing
Replaces fluorescent green-colored V119 premium antifreeze/coolant meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A
$234
If your diesel engine requires it, you must use this product. The 7.3 Ford (International) I own is a Ford, and Ford suggests this item. Simple to use; just add the right amount and check the ratio with litmus strips. By using this product, you can save a ton of money and your engine.
4.5/5
Inhibits the formation of rust and scale
Seals internal, external and coolant to oil leaks
Lubricates water pump seal
Helps control electrolysis and helps neutralize pH imbalance
Stops radiator tank seal leaks
$234
My 2000 Ford Ranger has 122K miles on it. My water pump was seriously leaking, and I lacked the money to fix it. Although I had my doubts about the product's price, it is more than worth it. Please be aware that my truck type has a capacity of 3.7 to 4 gallons. For each gallon, the instructions indicate to add 4 tablets at first, however I do not recommend it. Although there are a lot of big pellets available, I just used 4 as instructed, which had an impact on the cooling of the car. Because of the excessive concentration, the coolant turned muddy and brown. To get from 16 to 8 pellets, I simply drained the radiator, flushed it with additional coolant, and added 2 pellets. Please take note that I dissolved the pellets in hot water so they would pour and combine more easily with the coolant. *** I idled my truck for thirty minutes before starting it. Two months have passed. There are no leaks, no overheating, and no compression loss caused by either. fantastic stuff
4.2/5
Genuine OEM Dodge/Mopar factory fit part
$234
My 3.92LS Ram 1500 has that popping sound in the rear differential while turning from a stop. Dodge recommends changing the gear oil every 15k miles, so I used 2.0 ounces of it with Mobil1 synthetic 75w 140 even though the mobile1 claims to have additive in it. In the fine print at the bottom of the product page on the mobile1 site, it also states that an additional additive may be needed or employed in higher-end applications; however, using too much will result in the limited slip action failing. The dealer must not have known about all of this because they overcharged me for a $200 gear oil change, causing my back end to pop during turns, and then instructed me to return for a $2000 repair. Anyhow, I advise using this product if you're changing your gear oil and using the dealer-recommended restricted slip friction additive.
4.1/5
Permanent coolant leak repair - Just shake, pour and go
Mixes with all antifreeze
Fixes cracks and leaks in radiator, head gasket, freeze plugs, cylinder heads, heater core, water pump casing and engine blocks
No draining or flushing
If product did not seal head gasket leak, the system might be Over-pressurized, which causes back pressure and doesn't allow the product to reach the problem area, on this page below under Technical Specification is a PDF Guide with instructions to follow to complete the repair successfully
$234
I had a lot of doubts and some concerns that this would cause my 2003 Honda Civic further harm. Since the car quickly overheats, I really ordered this merely to get it to the shop for a new head gasket. In the end, I simply poured it in and let the engine run for approximately an hour while monitoring the temperature gauge. Temperature never exceeded halfway, heater breathed hot air once more, and the automobile idled more smoothly. I then drove it aggressively for 15 to 20 minutes; it drove well, had heat, and the engine temperature stayed below half. Because exhaust gas was leaking into my coolant and blowing it out of my overflow, my head gasket was determined to be damaged. That too came to an end. This tiny bottle genuinely amazes me—it helped me save over $1000.00! I wasn't compensated or given this for free in exchange for a review; I was just incredibly impressed and sincerely hoping that K-Seal will have a similar outcome for others.
4/5
Permanent coolant leak repair - Just shake, pour and go
Mixes with all antifreeze
Fixes cracks and leaks in radiator, head gasket, freeze plugs, cylinder heads, heater core, water pump casing and engine blocks
No draining or flushing
If product did not seal head gasket leak, the system might be Over-pressurized, which causes back pressure and doesn't allow the product to reach the problem area, on this page below under Technical Specification is a PDF Guide with instructions to follow to complete the repair successfully
$234
Engine overheated severely; I believe I had a head gasket problem.The car had a tough start and was smoking.Then, the car began to sporadically refuse to start.By adding this to my overflow tank—not the finest method—my car is now functioning smoothly.No smoke, no starting issues.I was hesitant to review this material out of concern that I could ruin it.There haven't been any significant issues for about six months.Although it smoked the other day, it is still functioning properly.I'm about to add one more bottle.My 2007 Volvo S40 has 230,000 miles on it, so if this fix in a bottle helps me get a few more miles out of it, it will be worth every money.If your car has a lot of miles on it, I'd say it's worth a shot!
3.7/5
Contains no water, effectively eliminating corrosion, liner and water pump cavitation erosion Minimizes the potential for corrosion and electrolysis issues, and reduces maintenance costs
During installation ensure that all of old water-based coolant and water is removed before installing this product
Specifically designed for all modern, classic, and vintage gasoline-powered vehicles, light duty Diesels, LP and CNG vehicles
Eliminates pre-ignition and engine knock caused by overheating, improving combustion efficiency to deliver more power and improved fuel economy
Has a boiling point of 375 DegreeF and will not vaporize, eliminating boilover and after-boil Generates low vapor pressures, prevents coolant loss, and reduces strain on cooling system components
$234
Evans is being used in two Honda Civics in an effort to lower intra-cooling system pressures. The Evans replacement for traditional anti-freeze won't boil until it hits 375F, and if it ever did, you'd already have suffered catastrophic failure. Except when the coolant level is excessively high at the top of the radiator tank, it does not generate any steam pressure during normal operation and will not pass through my 16 psi radiator caps. While it doesn't produce steam pressure, it does produce hydraulic pressure, which means that when the liquid reaches, let's say, 200F, it will expand by (they tell me) roughly 7%. The expanding fluid will push through the pressure cap and into the overflow reservoir if it were to be filled all the way to the top of the radiator neck. From there, it won't be drawn back by the pressure difference that pumps regular coolant back and forth. If the radiator tank was filled, the Evans would overflow until it reached its own level in the radiator top tank. One of my vehicles leveled off at around 0.5" below the inner flange of the neck, while the other did so at about 0.75" below. (Since I usually run coolant all the way up to the reservoir overflow tube, this Evans trait at first seemed rather odd.)The benefits are as follows for my stock performance automobiles, which never heat up unless a system has failed. First, I'm hoping that the reduced steam pressure buildup will prevent the Honda radiator tanks' cheap plastic from bursting at the seams. The coolant hoses are similar. (I'm positive that utilizing Evans significantly reduces the likelihood of failure, whether it be because of internal pressure, expansion-contraction fatigue, or a combination of the two.I also appreciate that the coolant is safe for pets and that it is said to never age out and enable internal corrosion.The cooling system capacity of Civics like mine is only 1.1 gallons, so running Evans at an additional cost is negligible, especially when compared to the cost of blown head gaskets that can result from cooling system failure. The benefits of motorcycling need to be as alluring.The advantages would still apply to my antique truck with an SBC, but it would also be able to continue dissipating heat from the motor even if the temperature rose to the unsettling 240–260°F range, when coolant cavitation can result in internal hot spots and engine failure. However, even at 5 x $45 (plus the prep fluid costs), the cost is reasonable when compared to the costs of catastrophic engine failure, which are more likely to occur when using conventional coolant. As a result, I'm waiting for the next coolant change cycle since that SBC system uses more than 5 gallons of coolant.On the modifications I've completed, I opened the heater core valves, took the engine thermostats out, and used a small shop vac to blow coolant out of the systems after the preliminary coolant drain. I may have been able to get by with less time, but I definitely ran the shop vac for 30 minutes. Nevertheless, my following coolant "refractometer" tests revealed that I had successfully lowered the systems' water content below 1%, which is significantly below the maximum level they advise using ( = 3% water).
3.5/5
Seeks out old coolant and water that remain after draining existing antifreeze/water mixture from an engine
Protects cooling system metals during flush, but is not a substitute for Evans Waterless Coolants
Engineered specifically to purge the cooling system before installing new waterless coolant
Especially important to use when block drains are unavailable or cannot be removed Ensures that the final water content after installing Evans Waterless Coolant meets operating limits
$234
The answer is Evan's waterless coolant. - egr - cavitation - oil cooler exchanger rust / radiatI jumped into Evan's waterless coolant, yeah.I have been focusing on solutions to the 6.4l difficulties, such as triple ester motor oil, coolant filter, airdog, metal screen primary oil filter, stage 2 push rods (drilled out), and oil bypass.My selection of options shrunk to how to fixRadiator leaks from corrosion include egr corrosion, coolant pump cavitation, oil cooler exchange corrosion, and more.I intended to put the oil filter bypass hoses through the EGR in order to convert the EGR to an oil system. However, there would be less corrosion and electrolytic problems if I used oil instead of coolant.was planning to replace the coolant oil exchange unit with a free-air oil cooler. I have a coolant filter to catch spilled coolant suspension debris, and I have already backflushed this.I therefore pondered why a waterless coolant system hasn't been invented. I was considering utilizing 0W5 oil, which is used in go-karts fueled by alcohol. I'm aware of no thinner oil with a higher temperature rating than this one. Costing $20 a quart and possibly being too hefty for the cooling pump.searched online and discovered Evan's waterless coolant.It eliminates cavitation since there are no bubbles brought on by coolant vaporizing because it is waterless.It works at 0 pressure and 375 degrees.This indicates that it will eventually freeze, causing egr corrosion, coolant pump cavitation, oil cooler exchange corrosion, and radiator corrosion. Since there is no vaporization, there won't be any bubbles to obstruct high power temperature transfers during high horsepower operations or cause fractured heads or cylinder ways.I had to give it a try because it seemed too good to be true.After nearly an hour of work, 8 gallons of prep fluid and 8 gallons of heavy-duty Evans coolant were finished.I'm at a waterless cooling system, therefore no. As a result, the egr, radiator, oil exchange, water pump, etc. benefit from this.The sole drawback, which for some people is also a benefit, is that the evan's waterless coolant is little less effective than a 50/50 mixture. The metal in your engine will essentially run 10 degrees hotter as a result. This is advantageous for diesel engines since it enhances combustion and lowers emissions. Because of this, my MPG has increased by at least 10%.expensive....This cost me 600 dollars, but the coolant is meant to last a lifetime. And it probably will be with my coolant filter cleaning it up.So my list of unsolved 6.4 problems is quickly getting smaller, which is great news.Before people jump in and start talking about deletes and other things, remember that where I live, emissions are checked during the yearly safety inspection. They probe the exhaust on the sides of the road and also look under the vehicle for removed emissions control system components. I'm not interested in paying $1400 to be a carefree spirit, and yes, I have had a few roadside spot checks. So let's avoid that.So I give Evan's waterless coolant a thumbs up.[SIGPIC] 2010 F-450 Harley Davidson Trim, dual. Kings 2.5 is about to surprise. The following components are included: Evan's waterless coolant, Tinken front hubs, Helwig overleaf, Coolant Pressure Gauge, AirDog Air/Fuel Separation System, AMSOIL Dual Remote Bypass System, XDP 6.0L Coolant Filtration System, XD143 DiamondBack HD Tonneau Cover, Bilstein Shock Absorber, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, Draw-Tite Front Hitch Receiver, and K
3.3/5
Seeks out old coolant and water that remain after draining existing antifreeze/water mixture from an engine
Protects cooling system metals during flush, but is not a substitute for Evans Waterless Coolants
Engineered specifically to purge the cooling system before installing new waterless coolant
Especially important to use when block drains are unavailable or cannot be removed Ensures that the final water content after installing Evans Waterless Coolant meets operating limits
$234
When I opened the basement door to my RV's "House Batteries," I discovered that the top of the battery box was heavily corroded. Upon closer investigation, it was discovered that one terminal was so damaged that the top side of the battery container had been eaten through. I removed all the corrosion and painted the hold down clamps and terminals. I gave each of the three batteries' three cells—a total of four batteries—1/2 ounce of the additive. After letting everything sit for around 30 minutes, each battery's voltage was checked. Before each trip, I usually clean the batteries and add distilled water. When the RV is at home, it is always plugged into shore power, so the inverter is working to keep the batteries charged. I have started leaving it disconnected from shore power, with the inverter relay and home battery relay switched off because I now think this is the cause of the battery abuse. I leave the entry steps operating while the chassis batteries are on.
Adding too much coolant additive can actually cause problems. It can cause the coolant to become too thick and can clog up the radiator. It can also cause the coolant to become acidic, which can eat away at the engine.
Cooling system additives are designed to protect your engine from corrosion and deposits. They can also improve the efficiency of your cooling system by reducing the amount of heat transfer from your engine. While there are many different brands and formulations of cooling system additives, they all generally work by providing a barrier between the metal surfaces in your engine and the coolant. This barrier can help to prevent rust and corrosion, and it can also help to keep deposits from forming on the metal surfaces.
Water wetter is a substance that is added to water to reduce the surface tension. This allows the water to wet the surfaces of objects better and also reduces the evaporation rate. Water wetter also contains corrosion inhibitors and can help to cool surfaces by increasing the rate of heat transfer.
If your car is running hot, there are a few things you can do to try to cool it down. First, check the coolant level and add more if it's low. You can also turn on the heater to help draw heat away from the engine. If your car has an electric fan, make sure it's running. Finally, drive slowly and avoid stop-and-go traffic to give the engine a chance to cool down.
Additives are designed to last the lifetime of the engine coolant. The length of time an additive will last depends on the type of additive, the amount of use, and the conditions under which it is used. Some additives may need to be replaced more frequently than others.
If your car is low on coolant, you should add more and then wait for the engine to cool before starting the car. If the engine is hot, the coolant will evaporate quickly.
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