Best Cooling System Additives in 2020

SUBARU SOA635071 OEM Coolant System Conditioner Review:

I bought this for my son's 2005 Subaru Forester because he said that he was having issues with loosing antifreeze but he or I could not find a leak any where. After searching u tube, we noticed that we weren't the only one having this same problem. One of the fixes was to spend $2,000 + for head gaskets and water pump replacement, the other option was to add this to the radiator (the radiator and not the overflow tank) and the components inside this bottle is the same as Rad Weld in Europe and is supposed to seal the head gasket where it leaks inside the cylinder wall (reason for no noticeable leaks). Some reported here that it took two bottles to stop the noticeable loss of antifreeze. I added 1.5 bottles to my son's vehicle and when I questioned him about his car last week, he said that he has not had to add any more antifreeze and it seems to be staying level now. To be honest, I also replaced his radiator cap that he had on the radiator at the same time. He bought it used last October and I noticed it had a 13 pound cap and Subaru recommended 16 pound cap so I don't know if this had any issue with coolant loss but my son never complained about overheating or loosing antifreeze from the overflow tank area. Like I said, the coolant system conditioner seems to work like others have mentioned it would so I would recommend buying this first before spending $2,000 + for a head gasket replacement. It may be money well spent to solve your missing coolant leak that you can not find.

Genuine Ford Fluid VC-8 Diesel Cooling System Additive - 16 oz. Review:

Like engine oil, you must use this product if your diesel requires it. I have a 7.3 Ford (International) and Ford recommends this product. Easy to use, pour in the correct amount and test with litmus strips for the proper ratio. Save your engine and pocket book BIG time by using this product.

Bar's Leaks J-100 Professional DiFM Cooling System Treatment, 5-Gram Tablets Review:

I own a 2000 ford ranger with 122 K plus miles. My water pump was leaking extremely bad and I did not have the funds for a replacement. I was skeptical about the cost of the product, but it is worth every penny and more. Please note I have a capacity of 3.7 to 4 gallons for my truck type. The instructions state put 4 tablets initially for each gallon, but I advise against it. It is great so many large pellets are offered, but I used 4 as advised and affected the cooling of the vehicle. The concentration was too high, making the coolant brown and muddy. I simply drained the radiator, flushed with more coolant, and added 2 pellets for a total of 8 vs 16. ***Please note: I dissolved the pellets in hot water which poured and mixed better with the coolant.*** I let my truck idle for 30 minutes and then drove it. It has been 2 months. No leaks, overheating, and no loss of compression due to both. Excellent product.

Genuine Mopar Fluid 4318060AC Limited Slip Additive - 4 oz. Bottle Review:

Fixed that popping noise in rear differential after turning from a stop on my 3.92LS - Ram 1500. Used 2.0 ounce of it with Mobil1 synthetic 75w 140 even though the mobile1 says it has additive in it, it's not enough for the duration between gear oil changes which Dodge recommends every 15k miles. I also read on the mobile1 site product page that it says extra additive may be required or used in higher end applications at the bottom in fine print but not to use too much because it will cause the limited slip action to fail. I guess the dealer didn't know all this when they screwed me out of $200 gear oil change leaving my rear end popping on turns and told me to come back for a $2000 repair. Anyways I recommend this product for all those who are replacing gear oil and use a limited slip friction additive as recommended by dealer.

K-Seal ST5501 Multi Purpose One Step Permanent Coolant Leak Repair Review:

I was very sceptical, and a little worried about this causing further damage to my 2003 Honda civic. I actually ordered this just so I could get the car to the mechanic shop for a new head gasket, because it overheats very quickly. I finally just poured it in and let the car idle for about a an hour while keeping an eye on temp gauge. Temp never went over half way, heater blew hot air once again, and car idled better... So i took it out on an aggressive drive for 15-20 minutes, drove great, had heat, and engine temp stayed below half. My head gasket was diagnosed as bad because exhaust gas was getting into coolant and blowing it out my overflow. That has also stopped. I am truly amazed by this little bottle... it saved me over $1000.00! I was not paid or given this for free in exchange for a review, just really impressed and hopeful others have a similar result after using k-seal.

K-Seal ST3501 Pour and Go Permanent Head Gasket and Block Repair Review:

Engine overheated bad...think I had head gasket issues.
Car was starting rough and smoking.
Car...then, started to not want to start - randomly.

Added this stuff to my overflow tank (not the best way)
and - knock on wood - my car is running fine now.
No smoke...and no start problems.

I didn't want to review this stuff...because I was afraid I would jinx it.

It has been about 6 months and still no major problems.
It did smoke the other day, but is still running fine.

I'm going to add another bottle soon.

My car (2007 Volvo S40) has 230,000 miles on if it helps me get some more
miles out of it - it's worth every penny paid for this fix in a bottle.

I say it's worth a try if you have a car with high miles!

EVANS Cooling Systems EC53001 High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant, 128 fl. oz. Review:

I'm running Evans in two Honda Civics with the goal of reducing intra-cooling system pressures. The Evans alternative to conventional anti-freeze won't boil unless reaches 375F, and, of course if it ever did, you'd already have experienced catastrophic failure... In normal operation, it creates no steam pressure and thus will not pass thru my 16 psi radiator caps - UNLESS the coolant level is too high in the top of the radiator tank. While it doesn't create steam pressure, it does create hydraulic pressure, which is to say that the liquid will expand by (they tell me) about 7% when it heats up to say 200F. If it got filled up to the top of the radiator neck, the expanding fluid will push through the pressure cap and go into the overflow reservoir - from which it will NOT get sucked back by the differential in pressures that moves regular coolant back and forth. If you did fill up the radiator tank, the Evans will overflow until it finds its own level inside of the radiator top tank. In the case of my vehicles, one found its level approximately 0.5" below the inner flange of the neck; the other leveled out at about 0.75" below... (Normally, I run coolant right up to the reservoir overflow tube, so this Evans characteristic was initially puzzling and quite different.)

For my stock performance vehicles - which never heat up unless there has been a systems failure - the merits are as follows... First, I'm hoping that the lack of steam pressure build-up will mean that the cheapo plastic radiator tanks that Honda uses will no longer explode at the seams. Ditto the coolant hoses. (Whether multiple previous failures have been due to internal pressure, or expansion-contraction fatigue is uncertain, but I'm confident that the risk of failure using Evans is substantially lower.

Additionally, I like that: the coolant is non-toxic to pets and it supposedly will never age out and allow internal corrosion.

A bonus on Civics like mine is that those systems only have a cooling system capacity of 1.1 gallons, so the additional cost of running Evans is insignificant, especially when compared to the price of blown head gaskets that can result from cooling system failure. The merits for motorcycles should be similarly appealing.

On my classic truck powered by a SBC, the merits would be the same but would also include an ability to continue conducting heat out of the motor even if the system spirals up into the anxiety inducing 240-260F range where coolant cavitation can cause internal hot spots that can result in engine failure. That SBC system uses in excess of 5 gallons of coolant, so I'm waiting for the next coolant change cycle before making the switch, but nevertheless, even at 5 x $45 (plus the prep fluid costs), the cost is modest when compared to the costs of catastrophic engine failure that is more likely to occur when using conventional coolant...

On the conversions that I've done, after the preliminary coolant drain, I opened the heater core valves and removed the engine thermostats and used a small shop vac to blow coolant out of the systems. I probably ran the shop vac for 30 minutes, but might have gotten by with less time. Regardless, my subsequent coolant "refractometer" tests showed that I had successfully reduced the water content of the systems below 1% water, which is well below their recommended maximum level of < = 3% water.

EVANS Cooling Systems EC42001 Waterless Prep Fluid, 128 fl. oz. Review:

Evan's waterless coolant - solution? - egr - cavitation - corrosion of oil cooler exchanger / radiat
yes, I made the plunge into evan's waterless coolant.

I have been working on ways of remediation of 6.4l problems...oil bypass, coolant filter, airdog, metal screen primary oil filter, stage 2 push rods (drilled out), triple ester based motor oil, etc.

my list got shorter to how to resolve

egr corrosion
coolant pump cavitation
oil cooler exchange corrosion
radiator leaks due to corrosion

I was going to convert the EGR to oil system....basically run the oil filter bypass hoses thru the egr. though was if I used oil instead of coolant, less corrosion and electrolytic issues.

was going to install a free air oil cooler and get away from the coolant oil exchange unit. I already back flushed this and I have a coolant filter to catch dropped coolant suspension debris.

so I was wondering...why hasnt someone come up with a waterless coolant system. I was thinking of using 0W5 oil that is used for alcohol powered go karts. this being the thinest highest temp rated oil that I know of. 20 bucks a qt, and probally too heavy for the coolent pump.

did some googling and found evan's waterless coolant.

its waterless so it elimnates cavitation becuase there are no bubles due to coolant vaporizing...its good to 375 degrees at 0 psi.

this means it will freeze in time egr corrosion, cavitation of the coolant pump, oil cooler exchange corrosion, radiatior corrosion. the lack of vaporization will prevent bubbles that interfere with high power temp transfers at high HP operations and help prevent head gasket problems and cracked heads/cylinder ways.

this stuff is too good to be true so I had to try it.

8 gallons of prep fluid and 8 gallons of heavy duty evans coolant, about and hour of work, and done.

so not im at a waterless coolant system. so this is helpful to egr, radiator, oil exchange, water pump, etc.

the only con and for desiels is not a con..its a that the evan's waterless coolant is slightly less efficent that 50/50 mix. basically this mean the metal in your engine will run 10 degrees hotter. for desiels this is a good thing becuase it improves combustion and reduces emissions. Ive gotton at least a 10% MPG increase becuase of this.

expensive....I spent 600 bucks on this...but its supposed to be lifetime coolant. and with my coolant filter cleaniing it up it probally will be.

so my list of remaining unreslved 6.4 problems is shrinking fast....a happy day indeed.

before folks jump in and start talking about deletes and stuff....remember...where i live they check emssions during the annual safty inspection and the both probe the exhaust on roadsides as well as look under for removed emmssions control system componets....not into paying 1400 bucks to be a carefree spirit and yes I have been road side spot checked a few times. so lets not go there.

so evan's waterless coolant gets a thumbs up from me.
[SIGPIC] 2010 F-450 Dually, Harley Davidson Trim. Kings 2.5 shocks on the way. Evan's waterless coolant; Tinken front hubs; Helwig overleaf; Coolant Pressure gauge , AirDog Air/Fuel Separation System; AMSOIL Dual remote Bypass System; XDP 6.0L Coolant Filtration System; XD143 DiamondBack HD Tonneau Cover; Bilstein Shock Absorber; Rancho Steering Stabilizer; Draw-Tite Front Hitch Receiver; K&N SS-7009 Stainless Steel oil filter. DIY Rocker arms and saddles . River city stage I push rods installed.

Charge It CH-77QHD Heavy-Duty Concentrated Battery Additive, 32. Fluid_Ounces Review:

I opened the basement door to my RV "House Batteries" to find a massive amount of corrosion over most of the top of the battery compartment. On further inspection one terminal was so bad a hole had been eaten through the top side of the battery case. I cleaned all the corrosion and coated the terminals as well as the hold down clamps. I added 1/2 oz of the additive to each of the three cells of 4 batteries total. Let it sit for about 1/2 an hour and tested the voltage on each battery. I normally clean and add distilled water to the batteries before each trip. The RV stays plugged into shore power during the time it is home so the inverter is working to keep those batteries charged. I now believe this is the source of the battery abuse and have started leaving it unconnected to shore power and the inverter relay and house battery relay turned off. I leave the chassis batteries on as they operate the entry steps.