1500 rpm may be too low for some applications.
No, you cannot put any fan on a CPU cooler. Each CPU cooler is designed to work with a specific fan or fans. Using the wrong fan could result in damage to the CPU cooler or poor cooling performance.
Most CPU fans will fit most motherboards, but there are some exceptions. If you're not sure which fan to buy, consult your motherboard's manual or check with the manufacturer. Some high-end CPUs require special fans that may not be compatible with all motherboards.
A cooling fan helps to improve performance by keeping the internal components of the computer cool. This prevents overheating and allows the computer to run at its optimal level. Having a good cooling fan can help to extend the life of your computer as well.
5/5
Extra fan clips provided allow adding a second fan
Can be easily installed without moving the motherboard
4 sintered powder heatpipes directly touch the CPU surface
Supports Intel Socket 130W LGA20XX/LGA1366/LGA115X/LGA775 and AMD Socket 125W AM4/AM3+/AM3/AM2+/AM2/FM2+/FM2/FM1
120x120x25mm PWM fan with blue LED
$234
With my Ryzen 5 2600 build, I made the decision to give this cooler a shot. I chose a push-pull configuration with the Deepcool fan that came with it and an additional Noctua NF-P12 1700 RPM fan. It was difficult to replace the AMD stock cooler with this one because to space constraints. To complete the task, I ultimately had to remove the video card and all of the case fans that were already installed. Since it keeps my CPU significantly cooler, it was absolutely worth it in the end. Since the installation, temperatures have not exceeded 65°C (even when under heavy load). The idle temperature ranges from 29 to 38 degrees Celsius. Oh, and in case you were wondering, I used Arctic MX-4 paste.If you do decide to go through with it, make sure to warm up your CPU to a nice temperature beforehand (to soften the paste). In the alternative, the old thermal paste will bind your CPU and heat sink together, causing you to rip the CPU out of the socket and possibly break some pins. Also, make sure you thoroughly study the instructions printed on the box's outside to avoid making the same mistakes I did when assuming how to install something. Trust me, these two suggestions will help you avoid a lot of time and angst.4 Stars - Excellent value and performance! However, because the installation was such a pain in the rear, I would never advise this device to a novice builder! I believe that a slightly revised blueprint may have greatly simplified the installation process. Remember that once you replace the stock cooler with this beast, you won't have nearly as much room in your chassis to work with.To be completely honest, I would only advise someone putting this unit in a new system build. It's really difficult and frustrating to install this on a motherboard that has already been placed in the chassis.Good luck, everyone!
4.8/5
Renowned Noctua quality backed up by 6-year manufacturer’s warranty, deluxe choice for Intel Core i9, i7, i5, i3 (e.g. 9900K, 9700K, 8700K, 9980XE) and AMD Ryzen (e.g. 3900X, 3700X, 2700X, 2600X)
Dual-fan design with renowned, award-winning NF-A15 140mm fans with Low-Noise Adaptors and PWM for automatic speed control: Full cooling performance under load, whisper quiet at idle!
Extra-wide 140mm dual-tower design with 6 heatpipes and dual fans provides maximum quiet cooling efficiency on a par with many all-in-one watercoolers, ideal for overclockers and silent-enthusiasts!
Proven premium heatsink (more than 300 awards and recommendations from international hardware websites), now available in an all-black design that goes great with many colour schemes and RGB LEDs
Includes high-end NT-H1 thermal paste and SecuFirm2 mounting system for easy installation on Intel LGA1150, LGA1151, LGA1155, LGA1156, LGA2011, LGA2066 and AMD AM4, AM3(+), AM2(+), FM1, FM2(+)
$234
For Noctua D15 enthusiasts exclusively, the LTT version I received came with two stickers, sixteen orange anti-vibration pads, a square metal badge that reads LTT, and a card with Linus' autograph. I'll concur with the other people who said installation was challenging. Due to the construction of my case, I was able to mount my motherboard without having to remove it, however doing so required a lot of force and needed using only two hands. Nearly half the size of my mATX motherboard, this monster is enormous. The 24 pin connector got in the way and prevented the front d15 fan from fitting, although I wasn't expecting it to. I switched this out for my 212 evo and started some stress tests. Currently, my setup consists of a 1080ti with a Raijitek Morpheus II Core heatsink and a Ryzen 1700 running at 4.0 GHz with 1.4 volts (99th percentile, I get pretty lucky in the silicon lottery).My temperatures with the 212 evo were: CPU idle: 41C75C CPU loadGPU idling at 22C (ambient)62C GPU loadMy temperatures are now: after installing the d15.idling CPU: 32C66C CPU loadGPU idling at 22C32C GPU loadMy CPU should run cooler, therefore I'm happy with the 9C difference. I'm surprised that my GPU temperature dropped as well; a 6C difference was definitely not what I was anticipating! It appears to be very effective at reducing the heat inside the case. Even though I only improved by 5 points on Cinebench, it is noticeably quieter than the 212 evo. Overall, if you have a decent-sized case and don't want to start water cooling or want your build to be as quiet as possible, I'd suggest this. This was the hammer that put the last nail in the coffin of water cooling.
4.8/5
Easy-to-install SecuFirm2 multi-socket mounting system for Intel LGA1150, LGA1151, LGA1155, LGA1156, LGA2011, LGA2066 & AMD AM2 (+), AM3 (+) FM1, FM2 (+) AM4
State-of-the-art dual-tower design with 6 heatpipes and 2 fans provides class-leading cooling performance for overclocking or near-silent systems
Renowned Noctua quality backed up by 6-year manufacturer's warranty, deluxe choice for Intel Core i9, i7, i5, i3 (e.g., 9900K, 9700K, 8700K, 9980XE) and AMD Ryzen (e.g., 3900X, 3700X, 2700X, 2600X)
2 highly optimized NF-A15 140mm fans with PWM support and low-noise adapters for automatic speed control and ultra-quiet operation
Successor of the classic NH-D14; more than 250 international hardware websites and magazines
$234
Recent decisions led me to abandon my Corsair H60 Push/Pull arrangement. I had purchased it when I had an AMD 8350 FX computer. The H60 performed admirably with an i7 4790k when I switched to it two years ago. Due to the i7's higher thermals, it is not as robust as on the AMD.I thought a Noctua cooler would be my next PC update after doing a lot of research. I had no idea what to anticipate because I had never bought a Noctua cooler before. Though I had a solid understanding from my research—reading reviews and watching videos—and the product appeared to be of the highest caliber. So, after I made my choice, all that was left was to choose a model that was compatible with both my motherboard and CPU socket. My Gigabyte Z97X UD5H Black Edition board was compatible when I visited Noctua's website. easily cleans the ram passages. So I placed my order.Arrival: I don't think I quite understood exactly how big this thing is until I opened the Amazon package. When I opened it, I questioned what I had gotten myself into. The Noctua packaging is excellent. Each component is individually enclosed, and foam surrounds the entire package. The business has gone to considerable lengths to guarantee that your product will arrive in perfect condition.Installation: I took all the parts out of the boxes. I had a look at the chipset 1150's instructions and started disassembling my previous cooler. In actuality, installing the NH-D15 took longer than removing the H60 from my system. The directions are easy to understand because they are accurate and well worded. They show two different radiating tower orientations so you may choose which is ideal for your system and case. All of the brackets are metal and well-made. Since there is no plastic in that area, you can be confident that it won't bend on your board or chipset. It will be able to be secured to a sturdy back plate. To avoid encroaching on any wiring and maybe nicking a cable later and destroying a fan blade, I shifted the fans to the left on mine.Operations:I was stunned once my PC started up. A silent computer is something I've never heard. Still, it was there. Nothing, not the GPU, not the CPU, not my SSDs, is making even the slightest sound when everything is running and up and running. It almost made me feel alarmed. To make sure everything was truly operating, I had to look inside. As a systems administrator with 16 years of expertise building computers, I have never heard anything that quiet.Performance: Where the rubber meets the road; essentially the reason I bought it. So I used Autodesk 3DS Max as my first test to see how it would function. One of my render scenarios was started. The H60 used to scream when running an HD render of a simulated model. I started my first render and monitored the temperatures while listening for a rise in sound and a decrease in the load on the fans. The fans never said a sound, and if their demand or RPM rose, they most definitely didn't let me know about it.Temperatures in my system:After installation and a few hours of breaking in, upon bootup -Min Idle - 18CMaximum temperature: 57C (During Render at Max CPU usage)20C on averageThose temperatures looked excellent, so I continued playing games. I began with GTA V.Starting up and loading took less than a minute. Earlier this week, I switched my games over to an SSD. Maximum temperature while playing GTA V at its highest settings. 48C. It gets 20C hotter on my GPU than on my CPU. I would request a GPU cooler from NOCTUA in a heartbeat if I could. The acting is beyond unbelievable.I advise it if your case and board can support this cooler. I don't believe there is an air cooler on the market that is any better. All four criteria—quality, design, simplicity of installation, and performance—get a perfect five in my book. Without a doubt, the cooler on my next gaming rig will be a Noctua.
4.8/5
Highly optimised NF-F12 120mm Focused Flow fan with PWM support and Low-Noise Adaptor for automatic speed control and ultra-quiet operation
Renowned Noctua quality backed up by 6-year manufacturer’s warranty, deluxe choice for Intel Core i9, i7, i5, i3 (e.g. 9900K, 9700K, 8700K, 9980XE) and AMD Ryzen (e.g. 3900X, 3700X, 2700X, 2600X)
Does not overhang the RAM or PCIe slots on most current motherboards
Classic 120mm slim-tower design combines outstanding cooling performance with excellent case-, RAM- and PCIe-compatibility
Easy-to-install SecuFirm2 multi-socket mounting system for Intel LGA1150, LGA1151, LGA1155, LGA1156, LGA2011, LGA2066 & AMD AM2(+), AM3(+) FM1, FM2(+), AM4
$234
In a T1600 system, I bought this cooler to replace the OEM Dell cooler that was failing. Although Noctua does not advise using their coolers in pre-built Dell, HP, and ASUS systems like the Dell T1600, I was rather certain that this product would function. Since Dell employs proprietary 5-pin headers, a 5-pin to 4-pin PWM adaptor was required (Thanks Dell...). The merchant "Tech Gears 4 Me" charged $7 for the adaptor. 9.8-inch-long Works 22-100-25 4-Pin To Dell Proprietary 5-Pin Cable Adapter. To connect the Noctua fans and case exhaust, two adapters were bought. The BIOS records the fan's RPMs without raising any issues. I'm using Ubuntu Server 16.04.1 LTS on my computer.This cooler is remarkable. Days of 100% CPU (Intel Xeon E3-1270, quad core) load result in a system temperature of 50C. Even a push-pull setup with a second fan (model NF-F12) mounted on the back is an option. The cooler is perfectly level with the case exhaust fan in the Corsair (500R) ATX chassis that I used for my build. There are no memory or other concerns because of the radiator's top; there is just enough room within the case. I'm puzzled by how my system managed to keep cool with such a meager stock cooler.For anyone looking for a system air cooler that is both quiet and of the highest caliber, I heartily recommend this cooler. As an added bonus, everything you need for the installation is provided, including printed installation instructions, thermal compound, phillips drivers, adapters, extra fan mounts, and thermal compound. This product is excellent.
4.7/5
Renowned NF-P14s high-end 140x25mm 12V fan, more than 100 awards and recommendations from international computer hardware websites and magazines, hundreds of thousands of satisfied users
Highly optimised low-noise design provides outstanding quietness of operation, excellent static pressure and strong airflow (CFM), square frame for water cooling radiators and chassis ventilation. Acoustical noise 25,8 dB(A)
Streamlined redux edition: proven Noctua quality at an attractive price point, wide range of optional accessories (anti-vibration mounts, S-ATA adaptors, y-splitters, extension cables, etc.)
1500rpm 4-pin PWM version with excellent balance of performance and quietness, supports automatic motherboard speed control (powerful airflow when required, virtually silent at idle)
High performance cooling fan, 140x140x25 mm, 12V, 4-pin PWM, max. 1500 RPM, max. 25.8 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTF
$234
If you favor the gray colors of the Redux line, you may now customize these a little by using the chromax anti-vibration pads (NA-SAVP1).Since the past ten years, I've primarily used Noctua fans. Some of the original Noctua designs may be found in the redux line, which has a much more restrained gray color scheme that blends in with the rest of your PC's components. In addition, the redux hues are less likely to enrage PCMR nerds than the standard beige/brown color scheme does.This indicates that they are still employing some of the older Noctua fan designs. Until recently, they were also using square frames in the original form without integrated bumpers. As they are Noctua's "budget" fans, they also exclude practically all of the typical Noctua accessories; as a result, just screws are provided with the fan. But the wires are still covered in sleeves, just like the domestic and commercial lines.There isn't much else to say, really. I mainly published the review to inform folks that the square versions were modified to make use of the chromax bumpers. If you're unfamiliar with Noctua, you might think that their followers are quiet, but that impression isn't totally accurate. They generate a sound that is audible (unless they are running at extremely low RPMs), but compared to most of the competitors, it is typically a touch more pleasant to the ear. Both case and radiator fans should be compatible with these; just be sure to use the PWM option to reduce noise when the additional airflow is not required.
4.6/5
Slim 120mm size for excellent case, RAM and PCIe compatibility: Fits most tower cases (158mm height), doesn’t overhang the RAM slots, doesn’t block the PCIe on most ATX and Micro-ATX motherboards
Proven premium heatsink (more than 200 awards and recommendations from international hardware websites), now available in an all-black design that goes great with many colour schemes and RGB LEDs
Renowned, award-winning NF-F12 120mm FocusedFlowTM fan with Low-Noise Adaptor and PWM for automatic speed control: Full cooling performance under load, whisper quiet at idle!
Renowned Noctua quality backed up by 6-year manufacturer’s warranty, deluxe choice for Intel Core i9, i7, i5, i3 (e.g. 9900K, 9700K, 8700K, 9980XE) and AMD Ryzen (e.g. 3900X, 3700X, 2700X, 2600X)
Includes high-end NT-H1 thermal paste and SecuFirm2 mounting system for easy installation on Intel LGA1150, LGA1151, LGA1155, LGA1156, LGA2011, LGA2066 and AMD AM4, AM3(+), AM2(+), FM1, FM2(+)
$234
Air coolers have always been my preferred choice. Compared to practically any AIO, it is so much quieter and simpler. But I actually like how a PC appears with a liquid cooler...After saying around three times that I would never return to liquid cooling, I decided to give it another go. After trying out three AIOs that were either pump noisy, defective, or didn't really like them, sent from heaven, the blackout Noctua coolers were released. I am one of the numerous people that decided against purchasing a Noctua cooler due to the garish hues. However, Blacked out is gorgeous. Nothing else to say about it. Once more, my computer is silently maintaining a 3700X at 74C while running prime95 at full load. The installation process is really straightforward and reliable. Even though I didn't use them, the orange anti-vibration rubbers and other LTT niceties are appreciated.I'm really not going back to liquid this time.
4.6/5
Highly optimised NF-A9x14 slim 92mm fan with PWM support and Low-Noise Adaptor for automatic speed control and ultra-quiet operation
Includes award-winning NT-H1 thermal compound; Renowned Noctua quality backed up by 6-year manufacturer’s warranty
Easy-to-install SecuFirm2 multi-socket mounting system for Intel Intel LGA1150, LGA1151, LGA1155, LGA1156
100% compatibility RAM- and PCIe-compatibility due to 95x95mm footprint, does not overhang the RAM or PCIe slots
Ultra-compact low-profile cooler with only 39mm total height – ideal for HTPCs, ITX and Small Form Factor builds
$234
Choose the Noctu if you're upgrading from a Cryorig C7 or even thinking about using it in an incredibly small PC build!My Dr. Zaber Sentry, a 7L mini gaming PC build, was recently completed. I got the Cryorig because it can accommodate up to 47mm CPU fans, had a higher TDP rating, and was compatible with my i7 processor. It turns out that the Cryorig is loud—really loud—and spins up extremely loudly under any load. It may be unusual, but I spent $200 on an Indiegogo case to keep the Sentry on my desk because I enjoy the way it looks there. What can I say? Even the low-volume gaming audio on headphones could hear it. I therefore experimented with this as well as deliding my processor, and the difference is notable. I'm not sure how much of the noise difference was caused by delidding versus Noctua, but I can say that when I manually raise the fan speed to 100%, the Noctua is around 25% quieter. However, the in-line resistor is the real game-changer in this situation.You learn that your BIOS tries to keep your system at temperatures that are intended for a large, open, airy enclosure when you create a very tiny case. I wanted a way to say, "Hey, the Kaby Lakes run incredibly hot anyway, and my case is little; chill about the temperatures," since this is simply not practical for a case like the Sentry. This is essentially what happens when you plug in the accompanying "silent mode adapter," which reduces all voltages going to the fan.Under typical circumstances, this device is very quiet and excellent. It's also important to note that, unlike the Cryorig's, the fan is exchangeable for up to a full height fan.
4.5/5
Airflow-optimized cooling fins; cutouts enhance the RAM compatibility
Amd: AM2(+)/ AM3(+)/ AM4/ FM1/ FM2(+)
Two virtually inaudible silent Wings PWM fans
Achieves only 24.3Db(a) at maximum fan speed
Seven high-performance copper heat pipes. Overall dimensions without Mounting material (L x w x H): 5.7 x 5.35 x 6.40 inch
Intel: LGA 1150/ 1151/ 1155/ 1156/ 1366/ 2011(-3) square ILM/ 2066
Funnel-shaped frame of the front fan for high air pressure
Easily installable black Installation Kit can be mounted from above
$234
I bought this to build a new desktop. My primary requirements for a CPU cooler were strong cooling performance and silent operation.Years ago, I started using AIO water cooling systems like the NZXT Kraken x62, Corsair H80i, Swifttech H320 X2, etc. Every time, the sounds they make generally let me down. They are certainly not silent in my opinion, with pump noise being my main pet complaint. The majority of these pumps frequently begin to make a very unpleasant ticking noise. Smaller AIOs must run their fans at greater rpms in order to cool, which usually results in louder fans.This time, keeping the system silent and still cool was my major priority in addition to the obvious performance of a new gaming gear. I don't give a damn about windows, RGB, etc.My setup consists of the following components: an i7-9700k processor with this cooler; an MSI MPG Z390M Gaming Edge mATX motherboard; 32GB (2x 16GB) Corsair LPX DDR4 3200 RAM module; a Seasonic 850W PSU module; a Fractal Design Mini C case without a side window; and four Be Quiet SILENTWINGS 3 PWM 120mm fans and two Be Quiet SILENTWINGSThe i7-9700k is running at 5.0 GHz with a maximum temperature of 80 °C over a 4-hour period of prime95 testing. It is between 26 and 29 °C while the indoor temperature is at around 72 °F. It varies depending on the game, and I haven't tested many of them for long enough to be sure yet, but I'd estimate it falls between the middle 40s to the middle 60s.This cooler is incredible in terms of performance. Maintaining the CPU's cooling is no problem.Let's talk noise and sound. I noticed a noise of this kind, a whistle or whine, at full, 100% rpm. When I stepped in closer to listen, I heard my nose and breathing generating the sounds. This design is so silent that I could hear my breathing and nose whistling over the sound of the cooler.The cooler was once so quiet that I had to make sure the fans were running, which they obviously were.In response to some possible concerns: * Yes, this cooler is enormous. No, installing it wasn't too difficult. easier compared to working with an AIO. The middle fan is the hardest to latch on. * RAM clearance was perfect for me because I used RAM without obscenely large and pointless heat spreaders.I was able to install it myself rather easily in terms of installation. The screwdriver that is given is excellent. I carefully and thinly applied Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste to the CPU. Getting the center fan to latch onto the block is the most difficult component of the installation. The two wirey lathes were easier to lift over the fins' notches with the aid of a pry tool.Overall, this cooler offers strong performance, respectable looks, and quiet operation. It's huge, doesn't have RGB for 14-year-olds, and some people might have issues with RAM clearance. You won't regret it if you can make the small adjustments and fit it into your setup.Overall, Be Quiet's product build quality has been quite satisfied, and I will be increasingly considering them in the future, especially for cooling items. I'd strongly suggest this cooler.
4.4/5
Rgb LED controller the wired RGB LED controller allows for customizable colors and effects with just the touch of a button
Cpu socket support: Intel LGA2066, LGA2011 v3, LGA2011, LGA1151, LGA1150, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA1366, AMD AM4, AM3+, AM3, AM2+, AM2, FM2+, FM2, FM1
Snap and play intuitive fan bracket design makes upgrading and removing the fan a breeze
Smart Fan sensor for jam protection never worry about your cables getting snagged or components being mucked up ever again
Direct contact Technology 4 heat pipes with exclusive direct contact Technology effectively provide excellent heat dissipation
Precise air flow stacked fin array ensure least airflow resistance which allows cooler air flow into the heatsink
$234
I'll start with the aspects I found objectionable.The directions are awful. Before mounting the bracket that goes underneath the motherboard, they instruct you to apply thermal paste to your CPU. I skimmed the instructions and did not understand it needed a bracket beneath the motherboard because of the hazy drawings. Simply said, it's hard to remove a motherboard from your case, attach the mounting bracket, and then put the motherboard back in place without contaminating the thermal paste, therefore I ended up having to apply thermal paste to it twice. It only takes a single fingerprint, eyelash, or piece of dust to contaminate it and affect how well your heat sink works.The tool used to tighten the bracket's nuts was another thing I didn't like. I attempted to use it, but ultimately substituted a wrench.The heat sink isn't exactly what I'd call secure, I discover at the end. The whole thing will continue to twist slightly even after I tightened it down and double-checked that everything was positioned correctly. When you try to reattach the fan, you can see it.I've read reviews where people claimed that they received mounting components that were faulty. Fortunately, I didn't experience this issue.What should you get before trying this?Although it comes with its own thermal paste, there are better options available. Like most folks, I chose some Arctic Silver 5. You'll also need some lint-free wipes (I used PEC PAD wipes sold here on Amazon that I bought for cleaning photos and negatives; coffee filters work but I do not recommend them because they're a bit stiff and tend to cause scratches), rubbing alcohol (at least 90% but 99% is preferred; can usually find at least 91% at Walmart and most stores), and one of those cleaner kits. Additionally, if you don't already have a small wrench set, you might want to get one unless you want to only use the kit's supplied tool. A screwdriver is undoubtedly necessary, but most people are already aware of this.So, how exactly do you put this on?Always refer to the instructions before performing any action. Before you do anything, make sure you have enough clearance for the heat sink and fan on your motherboard and in your case by removing them. It's a sizable heat sink. There is a chance that it will cram a RAM slot or be so tall that it won't even fit in your case.As directed by your CPU's instructions, you should first attach the bracket to your motherboard. You will need to remove your motherboard if it has already been installed to your casing. I didn't have enough room to flip it entirely on its back and use the provided tool, so I used a wrench.Cut the fan's connection to the heat sink.After that, insert the X-shaped bracket through the opening behind the area where the heat sink contacts the CPU. Maintain the sticky strip for the time being. Check to see if the X bracket fits the motherboard mount points before attaching it. If you haven't done so already, put your CPU in the socket after making sure it has been correctly adjusted.Thermal paste should be applied in accordance with the directions for your particular thermal paste after cleaning the CPU cap, which is the area where the heat sink will attach to the CPU. The goal is to have just enough paste to cover the portion of the cap that is directly above your CPU's core(s) if your thermal paste doesn't come with instructions. Try inserting a tiny paste plus sign in the middle if you can't find detailed instructions on Google. You simply need enough paste to fill one line, or around 50% of the length of the CPU cap, to get the right amount. In order to make a plus sign, only roughly 25% of the length of the cap is required. Put a rice-sized dot in the middle of each core if your CPU doesn't have a cap. Again, the majority of CPUs provide online instructions for this.After doing that, remove the heat sink's adhesive strip. Although it's not strictly essential, I advise cleaning the area where you removed the glue (again, using a lint-free wipe and cleaning solution). Place the heat sink against the CPU, apply pressure (just enough to get the paste to spread), then rotate the heat sink a little in each direction to see if you applied enough or too much paste. You have too much paste if you lift it up and it extends over the edge; you should clear the excess paste along the edges with a lint-free wipe. There need to be at least enough to encircle each core in a circle.Now, carefully position the heat sink and align the brackets. Gently insert each screw one at a time. Once all four screws have been inserted, tighten each one individually.Reattach the fan and plug it back in when finished.What of this did I like, then?As soon as I was done installing it, it significantly reduced my idle temperatures (to approximately 27 C idle and about 48 C under load, with the core temperatures peaking at around 63 C under load) and resolved the overheating issue I was experiencing with my factory heat sink. The temperatures are supposed to improve over time as my thermal paste sets, but I don't anticipate a significant change. My PC is generally quiet, thus the fan hasn't increased the noise much. I struggled a little to keep the fan from contacting the heat spreader on the nearby RAM stick, but I was able to squeeze through a very small space. There is a gap there even though the top of the heat sink is really near to the opposite side of my case. I'd say I'm satisfied overall.When I first attached my stock heat sink, it performed a decent job of keeping the CPU cool, though not perfect because even a slight overclock caused it to overheat. But approximately 3.5 years later, my idle temperatures had almost doubled, and games had begun to cause it to overheat. I had to decide what to do. I had two options: I could either buy a new heat sink or clean off my OEM CPU and heat sink before applying new thermal paste. I reasoned that if I was going to all this work, I might as well spend the money on a quality heat sink. A wide variety of CPUs are compatible with this heat sink.
4.4/5
Smart Fan sensor for jam protection - never worry about your cables getting snagged or components being mucked up ever again.
Direct contact Technology - 4 Heat Pipe with exclusive direct contact Technology effectively provide excellent heat dissipation. Air flow - 42 CFM. Noise level - 26.0 decibels
Precise air flow - stacked fin array ensure least airflow resistance which allows cooler air flow into the heatsink
Snap and play - intuitive fan bracket design makes upgrading and removing the fan a breeze
Cpu socket support: Intel - LGA2066, LGA2011-v3, LGA2011, LGA1151, LGA1150, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA1366, AMD - AM4, AM3+, AM3, AM2+, AM2, FM2+, FM2, FM1
$234
I'll start with the aspects I found objectionable.The directions are awful. Before mounting the bracket that goes underneath the motherboard, they instruct you to apply thermal paste to your CPU. I skimmed the instructions and did not understand it needed a bracket beneath the motherboard because of the hazy drawings. Simply said, it's hard to remove a motherboard from your case, attach the mounting bracket, and then put the motherboard back in place without contaminating the thermal paste, therefore I ended up having to apply thermal paste to it twice. It only takes a single fingerprint, eyelash, or piece of dust to contaminate it and affect how well your heat sink works.The tool used to tighten the bracket's nuts was another thing I didn't like. I attempted to use it, but ultimately substituted a wrench.The heat sink isn't exactly what I'd call secure, I discover at the end. The whole thing will continue to twist slightly even after I tightened it down and double-checked that everything was positioned correctly. When you try to reattach the fan, you can see it.I've read reviews where people claimed that they received mounting components that were faulty. Fortunately, I didn't experience this issue.What should you get before trying this?Although it comes with its own thermal paste, there are better options available. Like most folks, I chose some Arctic Silver 5. You'll also need some lint-free wipes (I used PEC PAD wipes sold here on Amazon that I bought for cleaning photos and negatives; coffee filters work but I do not recommend them because they're a bit stiff and tend to cause scratches), rubbing alcohol (at least 90% but 99% is preferred; can usually find at least 91% at Walmart and most stores), and one of those cleaner kits. Additionally, if you don't already have a small wrench set, you might want to get one unless you want to only use the kit's supplied tool. A screwdriver is undoubtedly necessary, but most people are already aware of this.So, how exactly do you put this on?Always refer to the instructions before performing any action. Before you do anything, make sure you have enough clearance for the heat sink and fan on your motherboard and in your case by removing them. It's a sizable heat sink. There is a chance that it will cram a RAM slot or be so tall that it won't even fit in your case.As directed by your CPU's instructions, you should first attach the bracket to your motherboard. You will need to remove your motherboard if it has already been installed to your casing. I didn't have enough room to flip it entirely on its back and use the provided tool, so I used a wrench.Cut the fan's connection to the heat sink.After that, insert the X-shaped bracket through the opening behind the area where the heat sink contacts the CPU. Maintain the sticky strip for the time being. Check to see if the X bracket fits the motherboard mount points before attaching it. If you haven't done so already, put your CPU in the socket after making sure it has been correctly adjusted.Thermal paste should be applied in accordance with the directions for your particular thermal paste after cleaning the CPU cap, which is the area where the heat sink will attach to the CPU. The goal is to have just enough paste to cover the portion of the cap that is directly above your CPU's core(s) if your thermal paste doesn't come with instructions. Try inserting a tiny paste plus sign in the middle if you can't find detailed instructions on Google. You simply need enough paste to fill one line, or around 50% of the length of the CPU cap, to get the right amount. In order to make a plus sign, only roughly 25% of the length of the cap is required. Put a rice-sized dot in the middle of each core if your CPU doesn't have a cap. Again, the majority of CPUs provide online instructions for this.After doing that, remove the heat sink's adhesive strip. Although it's not strictly essential, I advise cleaning the area where you removed the glue (again, using a lint-free wipe and cleaning solution). Place the heat sink against the CPU, apply pressure (just enough to get the paste to spread), then rotate the heat sink a little in each direction to see if you applied enough or too much paste. You have too much paste if you lift it up and it extends over the edge; you should clear the excess paste along the edges with a lint-free wipe. There need to be at least enough to encircle each core in a circle.Now, carefully position the heat sink and align the brackets. Gently insert each screw one at a time. Once all four screws have been inserted, tighten each one individually.Reattach the fan and plug it back in when finished.What of this did I like, then?As soon as I was done installing it, it significantly reduced my idle temperatures (to approximately 27 C idle and about 48 C under load, with the core temperatures peaking at around 63 C under load) and resolved the overheating issue I was experiencing with my factory heat sink. The temperatures are supposed to improve over time as my thermal paste sets, but I don't anticipate a significant change. My PC is generally quiet, thus the fan hasn't increased the noise much. I struggled a little to keep the fan from contacting the heat spreader on the nearby RAM stick, but I was able to squeeze through a very small space. There is a gap there even though the top of the heat sink is really near to the opposite side of my case. I'd say I'm satisfied overall.When I first attached my stock heat sink, it performed a decent job of keeping the CPU cool, though not perfect because even a slight overclock caused it to overheat. But approximately 3.5 years later, my idle temperatures had almost doubled, and games had begun to cause it to overheat. I had to decide what to do. I had two options: I could either buy a new heat sink or clean off my OEM CPU and heat sink before applying new thermal paste. I reasoned that if I was going to all this work, I might as well spend the money on a quality heat sink. A wide variety of CPUs are compatible with this heat sink. Furthermore, I don't have any immediate plans to discontinue utilizing my i5-3570K. Therefore, even with the age of the CPU, I believe the heat sink will pay for itself. I regret not purchasing this heat sink when I first put this PC together because I was too lazy.These are my motherboard and casing, for those who are interested.Intel motherboard ASUS P8Z77-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0Armor Series VA8000BWS by Thermaltake
Your CPU is one of the most important parts of your computer, and it needs to be properly cooled in order to function at its best. There are a few different ways that you can improve your CPU cooling, and each method has its own set of benefits. One of the easiest ways to improve your CPU cooling is to make sure that your computer case has good airflow. If your case is full of dust, it can impede the flow of air and cause your CPU to overheat. You can improve airflow by cleaning out your case regularly, and by making sure that there are no
When choosing a CPU cooler, you'll need to consider both the size of the cooler and the airflow of the cooler. The size of the cooler will determine how much heat it can dissipate, while the airflow will determine how quickly the heat can be dissipated.
How hot is too hot for CPU? The answer may vary depending on the make and model of your CPU, but in general, if the temperature of your CPU exceeds 80 degrees Celsius, it is considered too hot. At this temperature, the CPU will begin to throttle itself to prevent damage, and this will impact its performance. If the temperature exceeds 85 degrees Celsius, it is at risk of permanent damage.
A CPU can last without a cooler for a short period of time. If the CPU gets too hot, it will start to throttle itself and performance will suffer. It is best to have a cooler for your CPU to avoid any long-term damage.
The number of CPU fans you need depends on the specific model of CPU cooler you have. Most coolers will come with at least one fan, but some may have two or more. If you have a high-performance CPU, you may want to consider adding additional fans for better cooling.
There's no definitive answer to this question as it depends on a number of factors, including the size of your case, the components you have installed, and your personal preferences. That said, as a general rule of thumb, most people tend to use between two and four fans in their PCs. Using more than four fans can start to get a bit excessive and can actually cause negative consequences, such as decreased airflow and increased noise levels. If you're unsure about how many fans you need, it's always best to err on the side of caution and go with fewer rather than more
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