4.5/5
Cutout Diameter - 9.125"
Max Mounting Depth - 11.5"
(Height) 11.75 x (Width) 16.25 x (Depth) 15.25 inches
Premium Charcoal Carpet
Net Volume - 0.82"
$234
Making this box would have likely cost me twice as much. You dirty China! The prices are too good to pass up... The construction quality is nearly outstanding. It would be almost faultless if they used a different speaker wire terminal, but I had the same problem as many other people had: air was blowing through the POS plastic terminal, and you could defiantly hear it! I took out that cup, attached a piece of wood over it with glue, poked a hole for the wires, and siliconed all around them. Aside from that, the box is really frightening. Wish they had done a better job of aligning the port entrance and the exterior opening, but it doesn't make any noise.The American Bass XR-10D4 I have in it hits very hard and low.
4.4/5
Dimensions: Width 18-1/4" x Height 13-1/4" x Depth 16-1/4"
Air Space: 1.60 Cubic Feet
Mounting Depth: 15-1/4 Inches
$234
It's a terrific package for the price. The carpet I received had a few problematic patches, but I don't think that's a huge deal. The thumb screw terminals are preferable to the traditional push pin, in my opinion. I urge you to solder the wires rather than use wire crimp terminals because this will result in better connections. My daughter blew her Kicker system, which I had just purchased six months prior. I now have the Planet Audio sub, and both this box and the Kicker box sound great with it. Most likely, all you want to do is use this box to add a little bass to your car. Make careful to match the speaker's recommended cubic feet, and everything should work out. Keep in mind that you will need your own speaker wire since this is not prewired.
4.4/5
Net Volume - 0.16 Cu ft
Completely Carpeted Enclosure
Max Mounting Depth - 3.625"
Cutout Diameter - 6" x 8.75"
(Height) 7.875" x (Width) 12" x (Depth) 3.750" x (2nd Depth) 6.250""
MDF Constructed
Sold as Pair
$234
These tiny car speaker boxes are excellent. I bought them because I needed to utilise the entire amount of cargo space available in my car and my long-standing mounting method for my back speakers (A solid cargo area cover with the speakers fitted) was temporarily impractical. These are appropriate. It was simple to attach the speakers to the boxes and mount the boxes in my kitty by screwing in two eye hooks to an aftermarket wood mounting rail that was used by my previous speaker mounting system.These won't likely stay in my car permanently. I will return to the previous method once I no longer require the entire cargo area, but for the time being these are effective.The boxes are made of partially boarded lumber that has been covered in indoor/outdoor carpet. Despite the half board, they don't seem really attractive, but they feel quite well made. I enjoy them.
4.3/5
Net Volume - 2.27"
(Height) 7.25" x (Width) 57" x (Depth) 13.25"
Cutout Diameter - 9.125"
Premium Charcoal Carpet. Gross Cubic Feet Per Side:0.63
Fits Years 2012 - 2018
Max Mounting Depth - 6"
$234
Good box, decent quality, well-packaged, and so on made for an excellent delivery. I drive a 2016 Ram 2500 Crew Cab for mine. No issues, fits well. To match the carpet in my truck, I dyed the carpet jet black. Although the carpet is a wonderful dark gray, I preferred it to match. Two Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 IB Flat 10s were added. The Pioneer speakers are enormous and require a 9 3/4" hole, so I had to widen the speaker holes for them, although I was aware of this before I started. The Pioneers fit perfectly after extending the holes, and the box has the ideal amount of air room for them. The music from the speakers and the box is excellent, with a satisfying amount of bass for my ears. The only real complaint I have is that the speaker connections are a tad on the cheap side. The Pioneers sound considerably better than the Kicker Comp VRs I previously had in the same truck box. To prevent a fat girl from rubbing my speakers if she sits in the back, I also put some bar grilles.
4.2/5
Net Volume - 0.67"
(Front Height) 13" x (Rear Height) 13" x (Width) 15.25" x (Depth) 12" x (2nd Depth) 9.25"
Max Mounting Depth - 8"
Premium Charcoal Carpet
Cutout Diameter - 11.125"
$234
The BBox E12SV is a top-notch, affordably priced box to which your subwoofer can be connected. I connected my Pioneer Champion Series TS-W3003 to it, and I like how sturdy it seems to be and how big the frame is. The box allows my subwoofer to really breathe well, be free to bend, and get a little louder on the bottom end of things because it has an air outlet. Because the wood is fairly robust, you will need to use self-tapping screws or drill some holes for your screws to go into. You don't want to use a flimsy drill to attempt and get things going. I used a Ryobi drill set, and I had to exert quite a bit of force to cut through the wood and attach the woofer. That's good because it proved to me that this box wasn't constructed from low-quality plywood. So long as you're looking for a vented unit, I definitely suggest thinking about mounting your own subwoofer to this. If you're looking for non-ported boxes, the merchant does have those as well.One more thing: the flat connectors that are used as leads or terminals inside the sub to run wires to your speaker must be soldered onto the terminals if you don't want to do what I did, which was to split the 14-gauge wire I was using into two parts, run one end through the loophole, and then twist the open half of the wiring with the part that was in the loophole. Even though I only used electrical tape to secure everything to the sub's wall and ensure that the wires couldn't possibly fall away, I have plenty of contact.Update: I gave in to laziness and bought flat terminal connectors, which let me wire my subwoofer more securely. I've removed screws numerous times to correct wiring, and I've had to slightly increase the screw size to ensure the sub stays securely connected, so I do worry how durable the wood is. There haven't been any problems yet, but I believe this wood can only withstand so many modifications before new holes must be drilled. That's not really unusual, I suppose, but more resilient wood would have a little more endurance in this area to allow you to preserve your original holes even if you had to fiddle with the configuration a few times.
4.2/5
(Height) 13.5" x (Width) 15.5" x (Depth) 9.5" x (2nd Depth) 12.25"
Cutout Diameter - 9.125"
Net Volume - 0.74"
Premium Charcoal Carpet
Max Mounting Depth - 9"
$234
The BBox E12SV is a top-notch, affordably priced box to which your subwoofer can be connected. I connected my Pioneer Champion Series TS-W3003 to it, and I like how sturdy it seems to be and how big the frame is. The box allows my subwoofer to really breathe well, be free to bend, and get a little louder on the bottom end of things because it has an air outlet. Because the wood is fairly robust, you will need to use self-tapping screws or drill some holes for your screws to go into. You don't want to use a flimsy drill to attempt and get things going. I used a Ryobi drill set, and I had to exert quite a bit of force to cut through the wood and attach the woofer. That's good because it proved to me that this box wasn't constructed from low-quality plywood. So long as you're looking for a vented unit, I definitely suggest thinking about mounting your own subwoofer to this. If you're looking for non-ported boxes, the merchant does have those as well.One more thing: the flat connectors that are used as leads or terminals inside the sub to run wires to your speaker must be soldered onto the terminals if you don't want to do what I did, which was to split the 14-gauge wire I was using into two parts, run one end through the loophole, and then twist the open half of the wiring with the part that was in the loophole. Even though I only used electrical tape to secure everything to the sub's wall and ensure that the wires couldn't possibly fall away, I have plenty of contact.Update: I gave in to laziness and bought flat terminal connectors, which let me wire my subwoofer more securely. I've removed screws numerous times to correct wiring, and I've had to slightly increase the screw size to ensure the sub stays securely connected, so I do worry how durable the wood is. There haven't been any problems yet, but I believe this wood can only withstand so many modifications before new holes must be drilled. That's not really unusual, I suppose, but more resilient wood would have a little more endurance in this area to allow you to preserve your original holes even if you had to fiddle with the configuration a few times.
4.2/5
MDF Construction with 1-inch Speaker Face
Slot Vent with Black & Red Spring Loaded Terminal Cups
Gross Cu. Ft. 1.65 Net Cu. Ft.1.15 (Tuning 35Hz) Speaker hole cutout 11.12"
Miter & Dado Construction with Premium Carpeted Finish
(W) 16.00" x (H) 13.75" x (D) 17.25" - Vent (W) 1.25" x (H) 11.00" x (Deep) 26.00" "L" shape vent
$234
The BBox E12SV is a top-notch, affordably priced box to which your subwoofer can be connected. I connected my Pioneer Champion Series TS-W3003 to it, and I like how sturdy it seems to be and how big the frame is. The box allows my subwoofer to really breathe well, be free to bend, and get a little louder on the bottom end of things because it has an air outlet. Because the wood is fairly robust, you will need to use self-tapping screws or drill some holes for your screws to go into. You don't want to use a flimsy drill to attempt and get things going. I used a Ryobi drill set, and I had to exert quite a bit of force to cut through the wood and attach the woofer. That's good because it proved to me that this box wasn't constructed from low-quality plywood. So long as you're looking for a vented unit, I definitely suggest thinking about mounting your own subwoofer to this. If you're looking for non-ported boxes, the merchant does have those as well.One more thing: the flat connectors that are used as leads or terminals inside the sub to run wires to your speaker must be soldered onto the terminals if you don't want to do what I did, which was to split the 14-gauge wire I was using into two parts, run one end through the loophole, and then twist the open half of the wiring with the part that was in the loophole. Even though I only used electrical tape to secure everything to the sub's wall and ensure that the wires couldn't possibly fall away, I have plenty of contact.Update: I gave in to laziness and bought flat terminal connectors, which let me wire my subwoofer more securely. I've removed screws numerous times to correct wiring, and I've had to slightly increase the screw size to ensure the sub stays securely connected, so I do worry how durable the wood is. There haven't been any problems yet, but I believe this wood can only withstand so many modifications before new holes must be drilled. That's not really unusual, I suppose, but more resilient wood would have a little more endurance in this area to allow you to preserve your original holes even if you had to fiddle with the configuration a few times.
4.1/5
Install Location: Under Rear Seat
Dimensions: Width 46" x Front Height 10-1/2" x Rear Height 4-1/2" x Depth 18"
Air Space: 0.57 Cubic Feet
Mounting Depth: 5-1/4 Inches
Install Notes: Removal of Jack kit and storage tray required
$234
It was swiftly ordered and delivered, so that is a bonus. Additionally, the carpet was generally in decent condition, notwithstanding a few minor bare patches where the exterior wood could be seen (mostly in the corners). The other reviews I read that stated that I would have to seal before installing the subwoofers were accurate. When I looked inside, it was clear that the liquid nail had been cut corners. I even discovered a few places where the wood had a 1/8" gap. But don't worry; all you needed was a little caulking and wood screws. When you receive the box, make sure to have caulk on available; while I was at it, I even unscrewed the terminal plates and sealed those.I can certainly understand why some reviewers had issues with the way the box is positioned in the vehicle. It may either be tucked all the way back, giving you an extra 3 inches of leg room, but your seat won't lock, or it can be positioned so that it fits flush with the front of the seat, but this makes using the seat levers a little more challenging. I saw a few others remedy this issue by adding spacers to their seat brackets to raise the seat, but all I did was place the box in place, lock the seat, and wedge the box as far back as I could. It is pushed into position and now sits a little further back.It sounds fantastic overall. I anticipated that after I received it, I would have to seal it myself, but considering that I only paid $88 for a custom box, I can't really gripe. Use no more than subs with a 5 1/2" mounting depth if you're unsure or don't like to read descriptions and specifics on what kind of subs will or won't fit. Get some speaker rings to add a little depth if you do need to utilize deeper subs. My two JL 10w1v3-4 subwoofers, which have a 4.4" mounting depth, fit perfectly. I'm sorry for the lengthy review; I simply wanted to make sure I covered any possible questions. Excellent box for the money, feels really strong and not at all cheap; just seal it yourself before installing!-DrewP.S. When I have the time, I'll try to upload images.
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