Best Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable in 2020



GS Power 16 AWG (American Wire Gauge) Pure Copper Stranded Flexible 100 feet Red & 100 ft Black Dual Conductor Bonded Zip Cord Cable for Car Amplifier Automotive Trailer Harness Wiring Review:


This is high quality, 16 AWG zip cord (two-conductor wire) at a very reasonable price. The conductor is actually copper, rather than copper clad aluminum or steel, so it's very flexible and easy to solder. The insulation is high quality; it is resistant to hydrocarbons (gasoline, oil, etc.) and rated for temperatures up to 176 F (80 C), so it's suitable for use in most automotive engine compartments as long as it's kept a few inches away from the engine block, exhaust manifolds and other high temperature parts. The conductors are individually insulated (one red, one black) and pull apart easily and cleanly. I've used this wire to make power cables for amateur radios and also to install lighting and equipment on vehicles, and it's worked very well.



InstallGear 8 Gauge 25ft Black and 25ft Red Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable Review:


A Good Deal
Just want to help a bit with the size of wire actually needed
all car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps. And i did install 4 gauge at first and found it to be cumbersome to install and hide. But the wires where always ice cold so I new they where not being put under a load at all. I then did some more research on gauge size needed for the amount of watts being used and found by reading 2 different engineers works - the real geeks who know there stuff and are not trying to up sale or overprotect a product - that indeed 8 gauge is plenty good for my application - the proof being in that nothing is getting hot, not even close, not the wires or the connections. This is because not all charts take into context the lenth of the wire or the true watts being used.
You can calculate the length of the wire very easy by just measuring.
And for the true watts being used you can simply see what size of fuses your amp uses - for example, one of my amps that says it is 1500 watts max and 750 watts rms has 2 - 25amp fuses. That is 50 amps all together - times this by 12 (the volts your vehicle system uses) and this gives you the absolute max watts that my amp can put out before the fuses will pop. In my case for this amp it is 600 watts. Now we have a real (max) number of watts to work with. But lets not forget how you listen to your music and in my case I never turn up the volume to max. I know that I am only using 500 watts max and much less than that for a true rms.
And now my rant has almost come to and end. My other amp is listed as 2400 max and 1200 rms. It has 2 -40 amp fuses. Giving it a true max watts of 960 and with my use of it being an actual max of 800 seeing that I never ho above 85% max volume because of distortion at max levels. Once again making the true rms much less than 800 the actual watts the wires would be under load with for any prolonged period of time while listening to music. Hope this helps. Again if anyone is in doubt. Run your system for a while at your max volume you use then go feel the wires and connections at/near battery/amp. If at any place it is hot to the touch then you are not getting your max watts out of your amp and need to go with heavier wires. Not to mention to avoid any hazards.



InstallGear 1/0 Gauge Black 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable Review:


A Good Deal
Just want to help a bit with the size of wire actually needed
all car audio places will tell you to go with 4 gauge or larger for my 750 and 1200 watt rms amps. And i did install 4 gauge at first and found it to be cumbersome to install and hide. But the wires where always ice cold so I new they where not being put under a load at all. I then did some more research on gauge size needed for the amount of watts being used and found by reading 2 different engineers works - the real geeks who know there stuff and are not trying to up sale or overprotect a product - that indeed 8 gauge is plenty good for my application - the proof being in that nothing is getting hot, not even close, not the wires or the connections. This is because not all charts take into context the lenth of the wire or the true watts being used.
You can calculate the length of the wire very easy by just measuring.
And for the true watts being used you can simply see what size of fuses your amp uses - for example, one of my amps that says it is 1500 watts max and 750 watts rms has 2 - 25amp fuses. That is 50 amps all together - times this by 12 (the volts your vehicle system uses) and this gives you the absolute max watts that my amp can put out before the fuses will pop. In my case for this amp it is 600 watts. Now we have a real (max) number of watts to work with. But lets not forget how you listen to your music and in my case I never turn up the volume to max. I know that I am only using 500 watts max and much less than that for a true rms.
And now my rant has almost come to and end. My other amp is listed as 2400 max and 1200 rms. It has 2 -40 amp fuses. Giving it a true max watts of 960 and with my use of it being an actual max of 800 seeing that I never ho above 85% max volume because of distortion at max levels. Once again making the true rms much less than 800 the actual watts the wires would be under load with for any prolonged period of time while listening to music. Hope this helps. Again if anyone is in doubt. Run your system for a while at your max volume you use then go feel the wires and connections at/near battery/amp. If at any place it is hot to the touch then you are not getting your max watts out of your amp and need to go with heavier wires. Not to mention to avoid any hazards.



18 AWG (American Wire Gauge) CCA Primary Wire | 50 ft Red & Black | Also Available in 14 & 16 Ga Review:


This is good wire, but it is difficult to strip without pulling apart a lot of the individual wires that make up the core. I found the best way to do it is to use an auto-stripper that grips the wire with one side and uses a blade to pull it apart rather than doing it by hand. They're like $5 at Walmart if you don't own one. I also found it is easier to strip it in 1/8th inch sections moving back until you've stripped the length you need rather than stripped a lot at once. I used it to hard wire a dash camera. Works well.



16 AWG (True American Wire Ga) CCA Copper Clad Aluminum Primary Wire. 25 ft Red & 25 ft Black Bundle. For Car Audio Speaker Amplifier Remote Hook up Trailer wiring (Also Available in 14 & 18 Gauge) Review:


This is good wire, but it is difficult to strip without pulling apart a lot of the individual wires that make up the core. I found the best way to do it is to use an auto-stripper that grips the wire with one side and uses a blade to pull it apart rather than doing it by hand. They're like $5 at Walmart if you don't own one. I also found it is easier to strip it in 1/8th inch sections moving back until you've stripped the length you need rather than stripped a lot at once. I used it to hard wire a dash camera. Works well.



Rockville RWK4CU 4 AWG Gauge 100% Copper Complete Amp Installation Wire Kit OFC Review:


Fantastic kit for my rockford mono-block. For $50 you get everything in true OFC copper, this kit has a lot for the money. The RCAs are really nice quality, all the wires are nice and flexible, and the hardware that comes with it is also good quality. I really liked how the power wire already came with tech flex, heat shrink, and the terminal already installed for the engine bay, that saved me some time and looked great out of the box.

The only downsides are the fuse size and the fork terminal connectors. The fuse is 120 amp, I dont know about you but if im running a system pulling 120 amps im running 1/0 gauge, that seems like overkill for a 2000 watt max wire kit (Personally wounldn't trust 4 gauge at 1500 watts RMS to be honest) . Most people dont even have a 120 amp alternator if they are driving a regular sedan. So i paired it with a 50 amp fuse for $5 (recommended size for my rockford amp) problem solved no big deal. The fork terminals are useless for the rockford amp since they are set screw terminals. If it came with wire ferrules as well as the fork connectors it would be 10x more convenient for all those guys out there who want an extra clean build.



12 Gauge Copper Clad Aluminum Low Voltage Primary Wire 100 ft Red & Black (200 feet Total) for 12V Automotive Trailer Light Car Audio Stereo Harness Wiring (Also in 4 or 6 Color Combo) Review:


Wish I could say that I have used these, but they are still sitting brand new in my garage cabinets. However, when friends come over to see them, they don't know that they have been in there for over a year. I get compliments on how great they look and then I start talking about all the things that I will use them for. Sadly, they just sit there unused.
Great for making friends think you do stuff. Durable....they haven't warped or frayed. Hoping one day they will get used!!!!



12 Gauge Copper Clad Aluminum Low Voltage Primary Wire 6 Color Combo 100 ft per Roll (600 feet Total) for 12V Automotive Trailer Light Car Audio Stereo Harness Wiring (Also in 2 or 4 Color Combo) Review:


Wish I could say that I have used these, but they are still sitting brand new in my garage cabinets. However, when friends come over to see them, they don't know that they have been in there for over a year. I get compliments on how great they look and then I start talking about all the things that I will use them for. Sadly, they just sit there unused.
Great for making friends think you do stuff. Durable....they haven't warped or frayed. Hoping one day they will get used!!!!



100ft 18 Gauge Speaker Wire - Copper Cable in Spool for Connecting Audio Stereo to Amplifier, Surround Sound System, TV Home Theater and Car Stereo - RSW18100 Review:


I guess I got lucky.... I didn't see all the bad reviews saying wire was not the correct gauge until I got it (it looks like up to 1/3 of reviews mentioned the wire was thinner than what they ordered!) But, I got lucky. The most 'high tech' I was able to verify the size was by using my wire stripper. As with at least one review I had read, I put it in the 12 gauge slot and stripped off a small piece of insulation. It was a nice clean cut and also cut through just a few strands of wire so I am content that it is the right size. With that being said, I'm really happy with this purchase (so far). I haven't installed the wiring just yet (crossing my fingers that I didn't get a split spool like some have mentioned). I actually just need a 10' and 20' pieces so I should be fine even if it isn't a continuous piece (but I will knock off a few stars if it is split). From what I was able to tell so far, the insulation felt flexible and not like some reviews that stated that the insulation was very stiff and of poor quality.



GS Power 10 Gauge Stranded Flexible Copper Clad Aluminum CCA Primary Automotive Wire for Car Audio Video Amplifier 12 Volt Trailer Harness Hookup Drone Model Train Wiring. 100ft Red & 100 ft Black Review:


Really really good price, considering that this is the same quality wire sold by best connections. Not true 10 gauge, closer to 11 maybe? Also, as with all aluminum wires, they are more brittle than copper. So be careful when stripping or making connections or the strands will break.