Best Car Amplifier Noise Filters in 2020



AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included Review:


This is literally the only way to use both the Nintendo Switch and Discord on your computer at the same time. The Switch uses the HDMI port as its primary audio source when connected to a screen, so when using the Aux and HDMI at the same time, it makes a buzzing noise that will give you a headache.

(What worked for me after many hours of frustration) The only special things I have about my multimonitor computer setup is, 1: My headset does have an option to plug with an Aux cable (doesn't have to be USB),
and 2: My speakers on my computer have an Aux input for both a mic and headphones (so 2 places to plug in an aux cable "to the speakers").
You will also need this device above, an aux splitter (2 male sides, one female), a normal male to male aux cable that you would use in your car, and most likely an aux cable extender. All of these are cheap and easy to use.

1: Plug in your headset to the female side of the aux splitter.
2: Plug in the mic side of the splitter in your computer somewhere (either the green slot in the back or anywhere it shows a mic can be plugged in).
3: Plug in the hearing side of the splitter to your speakers. (likely that you will need an aux extension here since splitters are difficult to plug in one side to the computer, and the other all the way to the speakers)
4: Plug in a normal Aux cable from your Switch to the "mic input on your speakers." Plug in the device above to either side of this Aux cable as well.

If you label all of these cords it only takes a minute to plug in everything and is technically just 2 weird looking cords when they're all put together.



KRIPT HiFi Ground Loop Isolator for Audiophile Low Frequency Can Reach 20hz Music Without Distortion Review:


I installed a SiriusXM satellite radio and had it running with the AUX port in my Toyota RAV4. It had this high-pitched humming/ringing sound that increased with the engine RPM. After some research I found this and it works perfect! It eliminated not only the alternator noise, but also the static hiss that is usually heard in the background especially when the volume is turned up. It did not distort the sound or decrease the sound quality at all! If anything, it made it sound even clearer! Thanks! Will recommend this to anyone who has issues similar to the ones I had.



Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) Review:


Fantastic piece of technology. I struggled with engine grounding issue/noise for almost two years. I have tried everything from ferrite beads to shielded cables but in vain. The only solution was to not charge my bluetooth receiver whilst listening to it. But I stumbled upon this awesome piece while looking for a 4.1 bluetooth receiver. Works as advertised. It is slightly chunky compared to your ferrite bead type solution but if you have a hidden aux port like I do in my car, you wont even see it. Completely removes the signal noise (well not completely, I have not tested it out with an oscilloscope but trust me human ears wont pick up the noise anymore). I am thinking of getting this again for my gaming PC where sometimes I get a bad whine when the GPU is on full load. I will test it out and update if this fixes that issue.

Note: I plugged this guy directly to the bluetooth receiver to take this picture but is normally plugged directly into the aux input behind the console. The cable on the device is also replaceable. It is basically a cuboidal cylinder with one headphone jack (3.5mm) on each end. Very solid build.



BESIGN Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable Review:


Day 1 use, but so far I'm very pleased. I'm building a virtual pinball game, which involves assembling myriad electronics and hardware inside a cabinet. (See photo.) Included in the mix are multiple power sources, and 2 low-end amplifiers driving 2 sets of speakers - one that simulates the sounds of the machine, the other for music, voices, etc.

It was no surprise than once I got it all up and running, both audio sources had a lot of noise - likely ground-loop hum and other induced noise - pops, cracks, sizzling sounds, and just plain static. I tried many things but had no luck.

On a whim I thought I'd try this gizmo, but was pessimistic it would work. But I just plugged it in, and amazingly, it got rid of not only the steady hum, but also sporadic cracks and pops induced by things like high-powered LED flashers. I just bought 1 to test it out, but now am off to order #2 for the other amp.



SoundBot SB363 3.5mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Adapter Remover[Buzzing Eliminator Hissing Filter] Speaker/Car Audio Stereo System/Bluetooth Adapter Receiver/Car Kit/Home Audio w/Built-in AUX Cable Review:


I was trying to turn my auxiliary 3 mm Port And update my car to have Bluetooth but since I was trying to power a Bluetooth device by using the car charger I kept getting engine noise through the car charger then through the Bluetooth device into my auxiliary port. This device filters out the car noise from the auxiliary charger. Radios already have noise filters but car chargers don’t but this product solved that.



Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio and Home Stereo System with 1 Meter (3.Feet) Extended 3.5mm Audio Cable, Black Review:


I realize this isn't a ground-breaking piece of equipment if you know what it does, or why its necessary, but for the lay-person out there, I'll say this.

If you're looking at this, then you've probably googled why the heck your speakers/stereo make a horrible humming noise all the time when they're turned on, right?

Well, it's called a ground loop. It happens when too many devices share a power source (even if its different receptacles) and they interfere with each other.

In my case, my 1,000 watt amp, 1800 watt subwoofer and my mixing board were driving me NUTS with the constant hum anytime I connected my PC to them.

It's really simple. Buy this. Plug it in. Voila... annoying noise goes away. It's that simple.



Yarachel 50PCS RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3.5mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable Review:


My husband and I use dash cams in our vehicles when we are driving. We also like to play music. I use a MP3 player most of the time while my husband uses the radio in his vehicle. He recently purchased a "new" used vehicle to replace another . He is a delivery driver so he's in his vehicle a lot. To his dismay, when the dash cam was running, the radio would not receive any signal at all! After some research on the problem, I purchased these RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clips (also known as Ferrite beads) and placed one on either end of the dash cam cord, about 2 inches from the plugs. It did the job! My husband is a happy man! He has both radio and dash cam working at the same time now.



InstallGear Ground Loop Isolator Amp Noise Filter Review:


This product work well. I have a (4) Channel 1400 Watt Car Audio Amplifier and it had bit hum noise from the front two speakers and the rear two speakers. I bought one of these devices for the front two speakers to see if it would work, and it it did cut out most of the noise. So then bought another one for the rear two speakers and the noise is completely gone. The sound quality of my stereo doesn't seem to be effected. The only thing, is the product input and output are mixed-up/reversed. When connecting it to your amplifier just plug in the RCA Jacks that fit to your Amp and plug the other end into your Stereo. I think the manufacture just put the wrapping on backwards.



eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black Review:


Used on 2011 Kia Sorento SX; h11 LED lights and 2003 Honda Element EX; h4 LED lights. First I took the easy route and just installed the largest "eboot" (as they are called here) on the entire headlight wire bundle for my 2011 Kia Sorento SX. Well, that didn't change anything....also maybe the fact that I installed it on the aftermarket LED headlight side, not the factory wiring harness side. So, since it didn't work the first time I simply removed the 2 I installed and decided to install a smaller one on both wires (positive and ground factory headlight wires going to the harness). Once doing that for the headlights, I also installed a single one on the thinner wires going to my LED fog lights (both headlights and fog lights use the same bulb). Perhaps the difference is the diameter of the wires going to the headlights and fog lights, because though they use the same bulbs, the results were totally different (i am referring to putting eboots on each wire vs the wiring harness bundle).
Now, for my 2003 Honda Element EX, I am only using LED headlights (9003 or modernly called H4). My fog lights are currently the standard factory style. So, I again tried to put an eBoot on the wiring harness (factory wiring side) and it didn't change anything. So I opened the wiring blunder that keeps it looking clean, and placed the smallest eBoots on each wire. Just to be sure, I also placed the larger eBoot on the remaining (still bundled) wires....meaning I have one full wire eBoot and 3 individual eBoots (once for each wire....yes there are 3 wires). All said and done I can finally listen to my radio with no static. If anyone needs, I can post photos. It's too dark now so I won't worry about it unless someone requests.



Noise Filter Cable Ring, VSKEY [10 pcs] Anti-Interference Noise Filters Ferrite Core Choke Clip for Telephones,Tvs,Speakers,Video,Radio,Audio Equipment & Appliances Power Audio (10pcs 3.0mm) Review:


I have a 1997 Mazda Protege DX with an aftermarket radio in it, I'm restoring it because it was my mother-in-law's car and she passed away about a year ago and I'm going to restore it and give it to one of the kids,, that being said I installed some hid LED headlights with a ballast after I did that I could pretty much only pick up a couple of radio stations because of all the static when the lights were on.

I did some research on ferrite and saw this product which I have now purchased and as soon as I installed them on the lines between the LED ballast in the Headlights about 90% of the static left and I was able to receive my radio stations.

I have since purchased more ferrite and installed these on my radio antenna and also on the lines coming out of my alternator, and they seem to do a pretty fair job of reducing that static noise that you get in some vehicles on the radio when your turn signals are blinking on and off and so forth if you're having a problem like this I think they're worth giving a try.