Most bike cranksets are not universal, meaning they are not compatible with all types of bikes. There are four main types of bike cranksets: road, mountain, BMX, and single speed. Each type of crankset is designed for a specific type of bike and riding. Road cranksets are usually the most lightweight and have the smallest chainrings. Mountain cranksets are typically heavier duty and have larger chainrings. BMX cranksets are designed for strength and durability, and usually have only one chainring. Single speed cranksets are designed for simplicity
Shimano cranksets are often thought of as being some of the best in the business. They're known for being durable and for having a wide variety of options to choose from. If you're looking for a reliable crankset, Shimano is a great option.
Shorter cranks are not always faster, but they can be more efficient. When pedaling, shorter cranks allow for a higher cadence, or pedaling speed, which can be more efficient for some riders. In addition, shorter cranks can be lighter weight, which can also help with pedaling efficiency. Ultimately, it is up to the rider to decide if shorter cranks are right for them and their riding style.
If you're wondering whether you can change your crankset, the answer is probably yes. Cranksets are one of the most commonly swapped out parts on a bike, so it's likely that you'll be able to find one that fits your bike. However, it's always best to consult with a bike mechanic before making any changes to your bike.
5/5
Black
Please check crank arm for wear before installation
Fits Square Taper BB's
14mm - M8 nut
Standard threaded type crank nuts
$234
On my vintage 1980s Nishiki Sport 10 speed crankset with a Sugino VT, the rank nuts fit and function flawlessly. The nut on the LH crank has come out due to a loosening. The initial repair failed, but this nut was not to blame. On my commute, I had to tighten the nut about every three minutes after the crank got loose once more. Eventually, the replacement nut also came off.Thank goodness there were two! The LH crank also needed to be replaced since the bottom bracket's harsh steel had "reamed out" the crank's soft alloy component. Once again, everything is in order.
4.5/5
175mm crank arm length
Comes with 3 chainrings - 48/38/28
Square bottom bracket compatible
Comes with a chainguard
$234
The XTR crank from the Shimano family is at the top of the food chain, while the FC-M361 crank is at the bottom. Still, Acera is much superior to Altus or Tourney. I used to have a Shimano FC-M131 crank with chainrings that were 48-38-28. I think the arms were steel and had a chrome finish. Unfortunately, the FC-finish M131's started to scratch up after a few rides. I tried to fix the problem by buying a moderate TurtleWax polish for metal surfaces, but it didn't really help. I also came to understand that the only thing I should have done before purchasing this crank was educate myself on gearing ratios, otherwise known as chainring(s) teeth and Cassette and Freewheel teeth ratios, as well as environmental factors, such as hills or flat land, and why having a lower gearing ratio may be advantageous when climbing a hill or crossing a bridge, etc.I always wanted to reduce the teeth-to-crank ratio on my old crank so that I could climb more efficiently, especially up hills. Since I live in a region where some exist and Illinois can be hilly, I decided to spend slightly more than I had before while still attempting to find the greatest offer. So, following my strategy, I examined several chainrings, various amounts of teeth on the chainrings, and tooth profiles. I considered numerous, including Alivio, but it wasn't a good fit because it was for a 9 speed. Another thing that comes to mind is the realization I had that it pays to choose Shimano parts carefully and locate them as closely as possible to one another. Having said that, I initially bought a Tourney Front derailleur after first buying an Altus 310 in both high and low variants. All three were functional but horrible, less expensive derailleurs. Since I already owned the Shimano Acera RD-M360 rear derailleur, I decided to purchase the FD-M360 front derailleur to go with the FC-M361 (square tapered 170mm 42-32-22 chainring teeth crank with removable chainrings). If we were to contrast and compare the various Shimano cranks available today:1.) The FC-chainrings M131's are riveted on and are not detachable.2.) The FC-chainrings M311's are riveted on and are not detachable.3.) The FC-chainrings M311-L's are riveted on and are not detachable.4.) The FC-chainrings M430-L's are detachable5.) The FC-chainrings M361's are detachableAs you can see, some Shimano crank models will have removable chainrings or not. Therefore, non-removable chainrings were a deal-breaker for me. This meant that if I kept my FC-M131 crank for example, and one chainring broke but the other two chainrings were fine, I'd still have to replace the entire crank, which may be expensive for some people while being an option for others to simply purchase a new bike. So that was my justification for choosing this crank over others. I would expect that buying a replacement chainring would be far less expensive than purchasing a brand-new crank. My bicycle shifts so smoothly and quietly now! Never have I felt better!
4.3/5
High compact extractor puller and smooth revolving bolt ensures smooth operation and long life
Search "Oumers bike tool" on product catalog if you need more professional bicycle maintenance tools
Easy to operate and use, handy for any bike owner to keep in the toolbox, also good for home mechanic
The crank extractor is used to remove square type crank arms, not fit octalink crankset
A necessary parts for bicycle repair, bicycle crank arm puller set, came with 16mm hex spanner
$234
A 2011 K2 Base Sport bottom bracket needed to be replaced, therefore this was purchased. On a bike where the bottom bracket has never been changed, the tool performed admirably. If your bike is anything like mine, you will require assistance from a friend who can push on the tool's rear as you turn it using a ratchet and handle extender to keep the tool from jumping teeth. All of this is not a criticism of the tool; despite the bottom bracket's poor design, it functions properly. Despite multiple jumping teeth, the tool held up well and exhibits little wear. I would advise anyone who, like me, was unsure about what size spanner wrench to buy.
4.3/5
Crankset (3x8-speed)
FOR REAR 6/7/8-SPEED
$234
The old set was quite worn, so going up to 175mm gives a little bit more torque, which is wonderful, and now it's much simpler to ride. The front derailleur cable had to be adjusted because it was a little further from the frame, but that was the only issue. I initially assumed I would need to move the complete derailleur and/or lengthen the chain because the listing's *title* stated that the largest chainring was (24/34/) 44t, however the *description* is accurate and matches with 24/34/42. About 25 hours ago, I DIY'ed with a crank puller for the first time ever; today, I rode the typical 20-mile round trip to work without any problems. I'm quite content with it!
4.3/5
BCD:104mm.Crank Arm length 170mm, Crank related holes distance 74mm
Package Include: One Fordged Crank Set, Bottom Bracket, 4 pcs Single Chainring Bolts, Crank screw, crankset bolt Allen Wrench.
Made of aluminum alloy, light weight, stylish, flashy styling, high axial strength and compatibility.
Bottom Bracket Width: 68-73mm can be fine
Compatible with: Shimano, FSA, Gaint ATX770 ATX770-D XTC 750
$234
A hard tail would always win in a bike competition; add a 1x on top of that, and you have the icing on the cake. This crank is quite stylish, simple to install, and came with everything shown. Today I rode a trail with it with my bike moving from a 3x to a 1x, and what a difference! There are no drive train noises when traveling uphill or over crests. To keep the chain in position, I fitted a small wide chester chain ring, and the ride is incredibly smooth. Highly advised.
4.3/5
Altus FC-M311 Crankset
$234
To replace my old crank with somewhat bigger sprockets, I really bought this. My favorite. Pros and drawbacks are listed below:Pro:-High-quality powder coating substance resists scratching.- powerful pedal arms. I needed something solid because I am rather heavy, like matching nut covers.Easy installationCons: -The attractive exterior facing is composed of plastic and is readily removed during hiking. After I clipped it back in, I had to use super glue to attach it to the outer sprocket.Overall, I think this is a wonderful crank set, and if you don't mind having to either remove or glue on the facade on the outer sprocket, this is the crank set for you.
3.5/5
$234
They are correct about the pedal threads, I suppose. The pedal threads are insufficiently strong and deep enough. The crankset in particular has been painted extremely extensively, which is the main problem. To assist loosen the paint, I threaded my pedals in backward from the back side. I then used steel wool to clean the threads, making sure to remove all pieces of metal. The driving side pedal went in easily; the other side, however, required a little more effort. I simply threaded it in backwards a few times, washed all the remaining paint, and it worked. To help with the threading and to prevent the pedals from coming loose, I applied locktite on each of them. If you know what you're doing, the pedals I've done thousands of times will stay on, but I can see how they would come off very quickly.Rather from being red like a fire vehicle, the color is more orange.seem to be nice thingsSo far, so good; we'll see.
3.2/5
Light and doesn't absorb water or mud
Extra protection and added style on the crank arm
Tight fit to avoid debris between defender and crank arm
Fits most carbon and some aluminum cranks. Check compatibility list below in the manufacturer page
Durable and strong. Impact & scratch protection
$234
However, FSA carbon cranks will not fit this nice piece of safety equipment. Currently, they are attached to my Raceface crank on my fat bike.
There's no one-size-fits-all answer to this question, as the compatibility of chainrings and cranks can vary depending on the specific make and model of each component. However, in general, most chainrings will be compatible with most cranksets, as long as they use the same bolt pattern. There are a few exceptions to this rule, so it's always best to check with the manufacturer or a bike mechanic to be sure.
Cranksets come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and materials. So, do they make a difference? The answer is yes, but it depends on what you're looking for. If you're a competitive racer, then you'll want to choose a crankset that's as light and stiff as possible. This will help you transfer all of your power to the pedals and get the most out of each stroke. If you're more concerned with durability and comfort, then you'll want to choose a crankset made from a tougher material like steel.
When replacing your crankset, you do not need to replace your bottom bracket.
There's no definitive answer to this question since everyone has different preferences. Some people feel that a longer crank results in more power, while others find it more difficult to control. Ultimately, it's up to the individual to experiment with different lengths to see what works best for them.
A crankset is a mechanical device that converts linear motion from the pedals into rotational motion, which then drives the chain to propel the bicycle forward. It consists of two crank arms connected to the pedals, and a sprocket (or chainring) connected to the rear wheel. The crank arms are usually made of aluminum or steel, while the sprockets are usually made of steel. The length of the crank arms determines the gear ratio of the crankset, which affects the pedaling efficiency and the speed at which the bicycle can be ridden. The most common gear
There are a few things to consider when choosing a crankset. Crank length, chainring size, and bolt pattern are the main factors. Crank length is measured from the center of the pedal hole to the center of the crank spindle. The most common lengths are 165, 170, and 175mm. Chainring size is the diameter of the rings that the chain runs on. The most common sizes are 39, 42, and 46t. Bolt pattern is the distance between the bolt holes on the back of the crank arm. The most common patterns are 110 and 130mm
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