COMPLETE SET - Include four (4) ferrules
DIMENSIONS - Total Height: 9/16 in. (14.1mm) Shaft Depth: 1/2 in. (12.8mm) Shaft Diameter: 3/8 in. (9.6mm) Flange Diameter: 15/32 in. (12mm) Flange Height: 3/64 in. (1.2mm) Interior Diameter: 5/16 in. (7.8mm)
PROFESSIONAL QUALITY - String-thru Body Bass Guitar Ferrules (4) in Chrome Finish
BRAND NEW - Vintage Forge Factory Fresh Packaging
These are AWESOME!! Great craftsmanship.. the Ferrell actually has a ring-bulge so when u set it in ur hole, it actually grabs the wood.. so don't set it till u know for sure u have the right depth and circumference.. used them to turn a vintage Squire Jazz bass into a string-thru- worked perfectly!! Drilled the string hole from the top (face), used a paddle bit to drill for the "flush" set (back- 1/2 inch)- the outer ring of the Ferrell and only go a millimeter or two ( When u see fresh wood, u should be good), then used a regular drill bit (3/8) to drill for the body of the Ferrell- about a half inch deep. Done in this sequence, the hole from each previous drilling will guide the next drilling step.. there is no bass like string-thru bass!! Tone for days!!
(String in picture was for testing electronics before I put my DR Black Beauties on.. did not run it through the body. Just in case anyone was wondering)
Some of our most requested replacement screws
Used on most Fender guitars and basses
Made for Fender and used on a variety of vintage and contemporary models
Package contains four (8 X 1-3/4") neck mounting screws
Genuine Fender screws in Fender packaging- takes the guess work out of it. I mean they're just screws. But they're the right length for full thickness (1.75") Fender bodies. Used a Squier Affinity neck on a 1.75" thick aftermarket Strat body and the Squier screws were too short (Squier Affinity bodies are sometimes thinner than Fenders, therefore they use shorter screws for the neck).
Mounting screws included
Fits most Jazz Bass models (US and Mexico) manufactured from '64-Present
Brass control plate with chrome plating
In a recent project, I wanted to add a toggle switch to my Jazz Bass. In the process, after I drilled the hole, I realized there would not be enough room between the pots to allow the toggle switch to fit, so I just needed a new control plate, without a hole in it. This is identical to the one that came on my bass, so it was exactly what I needed. Not much else to say. It's a Fender Jazz Bass control plate. If you need one, this is it.
Package includes two knurled flat-top knobs and mounting set screws
Fits most Telecaster and Precision Bass instruments (US and Mexico) manufactured from '51-Present
Designed to fit most 1/4" solid shaft potentiometers
Not all knurled chrome knobs are created equal. I like it when the texture on the side is nice and grippy, so I can zip the tone all the way up or down with a quick swipe of the finger. These are that way. And they feel reassuringly heavy, with robust machining on the set screws.
I've paid considerably more for a set of rounded top knobs of comparable quality. These are a good value and are more or less correct for my standard split-coil P-bass.
Mono 4 pin
Fits amps from 1988-1999
Standard amplifier hardware
Fender replacement part: 099-0912-000
I give it 5 stars because it's a direct factory replacement in the amp I was repairing - Frontman 15R. It came in Fender packaging, dropped right into place, and required no modifications to fit. It's exactly as described and what I needed.
If I felt the amp needed to be more robust, I would've tried to retrofit a good quality Switchcraft jack that would outlive the rest of the amp.
Genuine Fender Replacement Part
I'm using this on a special home-made pedal that requires the volume to be muted from time to time. Instead of hearing the "click" of a footswitch, I roll back a big knob with my foot... which is this Fender pot. No scratchy sound at all!
This is probably the best quality pot at the lowest price you'll find.
I've had it on my strat for a couple of weeks now and it is holding up quite nicely. Color is good and as pictured and it doesn't seem to scratch easily. Installed easily.... Only thing that was slightly upsetting is that I only received one screw.... They shorted me a gold screw... Luckily I had extra and this didn't bother me that much.
Material: metal; Color: black, silver, golden
Package including: 150 piece pickguard screws(each color is 50 pieces); enough for long time use
Fit for most guitars or basses; Compatible with countersunk pickguards and cover plates
Size: total length about 12mm; thread diameter about 3mm
Good replacement screws for different colors guitar and bass
These screws look great and feel very high quality. The chrome screws match the stock ones on my Fender P-Bass perfectly, and the Gold color is extremely vibrant and alive looking. They did not arrive rusty, in fact, they look brand new. My only gripe is that I wish they came in some kind of compartmentalized box. Instead, they came in 3 little baggies inside a larger baggie. But I'm still giving them 5 stars. Y'all whine too much.
Package includes two string guides and mounting hardware
Used on American Standard, American Series, American Special, and American Deluxe (USA) models
Fender string guides (string trees) help minimize tuning problems and sympathetic overtones caused by low string tension
I like these, actually better than the silver Fender ones I just got in for another guitar. On those Fender ones, two strings share the same roller "axle", which seems counterproductive to me. These just provide a nice smooth surface to create a little tension on the headstock side of the neck nut. Be careful to make sure you put them on dead-aligned the first time, though, because they have a little nub on the bottom that will press into the wood of your headstock when you screw them in, to try to keep them from rotating. It's actually a great feature that the silver Fenders don't have. But, because they don't normally have them, I didn't notice them and screwed them down pretty firm, and was going to bring strings to tension and accurately position them before giving the final snug down... well, since the nub had already penetrated the wood, that didn't work. I had to file it off because otherwise it kept just trying to guide back into the first indention it made.
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