Bandsaw blades are made out of high-speed steel, which is extremely hard. However, this also makes them difficult to sharpen by hand. If you do not have access to a sharpening machine, it is possible to sharpen your bandsaw blade by hand, but it will take significantly longer and may not produce as sharp of a blade.
In order to know what size bandsaw blade you need, you need to take into account the size of the workpiece you will be cutting, the depth of the cut, and the type of material you will be cutting. The size of the workpiece will determine the size of the blade, and the depth of the cut will determine the width of the blade. The type of material you will be cutting will also determine the type of blade you need.
A good quality bandsaw blade should last for many years with proper care. However, how often you need to replace your blade will depend on how often you use your bandsaw and what type of materials you are cutting. If you are cutting softwoods, you will probably need to replace your blade more often than if you are cutting hardwoods. Softer woods are more likely to cause the blade to dull quickly. In addition, if you are cutting a lot of curves, you will also need to replace your blade more often than if you are cutting mostly straight lines.
4.5/5
For all vertical, stationary, floor standing 2-wheel band saws
The product is easy installation and easy handling
N/A
Imported
For hard or soft wood, plastic, mild steel and non-ferrous metal
The product is manufactured in China
The product is easy to use and highly durable
$234
I recently purchased a Jet bandsaw and have tried practically everything to correct blade drift. To solve the problem, I spent countless hours watching videos online. I have tried upgrading to new upper and lower guides as well as purchased new blades from a nearby blade manufacturer who produced them there and then. I tried increasing and decreasing the blade's tension, but nothing seemed to work. This was my final attempt; I planned to sell the bandsaw after buying one new resaw blade, but it succeeded, tracking true and accurately on the first try! I didn't alter the wheels' alignment; instead, I just set the upper and lower guides and the right tension, as I had done before. Watch the excellent Snodgrass band saw tutorial on YouTube. This blade cut precisely. I tested on pine initially, which isn't shown in the pictures. Next, I made a small glue-up piece, cutting just enough to keep a 1mm thick strip of poplar adhered twice to white oak. The last blade was a strip of cedar that was 18 inches long, 1/4 inch wide, and 4 inches tall. This blade did not drift at all. I'll purchase more of these. I'm about to put the 3/16 blade to the test on a bandsaw box.
4.4/5
Alloy Steel Backer for Fatigue Resistance
8 percent cobalt content For added durability; wear
14 Teeth Per Inch
Matrix II high speed steel edge for heat and wear resistance
Rc 65-67 Tooth Hardness For Increased Wear Resistance
8% Cobalt Content For Added Durability & Wear
Matrix II High Speed Steel Edge for Heat and Wear Resistance
$234
The teeth on the blades are very tough, so they cut well (65HRC). However, if the improper TPI is selected for your application, hardness can result in tooth loss. I chewed through these blades like crazy for a long since I was doing this. I'm now utilizing 18tpi, which is better for the common material thicknesses I use. Blades do become worn out. Instead of tooth wear, I typically replace them owing to fatigue cracking and breaking. Probably need to locate a bandsaw blade welder.Regularly excellent Dewalt quality. Will keep purchasing.
4.4/5
High speed steel is electron beam welded to a flexible backer to create longer lasting, faster cutting blades resistant to the effects of shock and heat.
Fit all standard portable band saw machines
Cut pipe tubing and solids made of any machinable metal
$234
I've used band saw blades from Milwaukee, and they are dreadful in comparison to these MK Morse blades.The two ends of Milwaukee's blades, where they are welded together, are very poorly aligned and form a band. Each time the welded joint passes through the cut, this causes the saw to bounce. and leap ferociously.However, these Morse blades have excellent weld alignment, so as they pass through the cut, you hardly barely notice them.Additionally, the steel and heat treatment in the Morse blades are substantially better. The metal on the cutting blades is tougher and keeps its edge longer.It would have required 3-5 Milwaukee blades for every Morse blade I use to get the same cutting. The inferior alloy and heat treatment used by Milwaukee makes it simple for the blade's teeth to come out. 25% of the teeth are gone by the time the Milwaukee blade is fairly dull and needs to be replaced. The teeth of a Morse blade never fall out. Metal is ripped out of the wound as it should be instead of the tooth being torn out.I've bought test sets of every brand of portaband blade that Amazon carries in an effort to locate blades that cut and last longer than Milwaukee's. I work as a professional welder, thus I utilize a lot of blades. In St. Augustine, Florida, I own and run After Hours Welding and Trailer Repair. My main source of income is pretty much metal work.Given that I anticipate using several hundred blades between now and a few years from now, it was worth my time to play with and test every blade I could get my hands on. Like Milwaukee's, all the other brands' blades were subpar. They made no attempt to improve.In comparison to the rest of the competitors, the Morse brand blade was the only one that ran and cut cleanly and lasted a long time. Does the fact that Morse blades are produced in America surprise you? And all of the others are rebranded Chinese products.The nice aspect is that they are priced similarly to Milwaukee blades. It's good that considerably better quality in this instance does not cost more than the garbage.Let me provide you some professional guidance. Blades come in a variety of styles and tooth counts per inch. When cutting thin-walled metal, use a blade with numerous teeth per inch so that there are always 5-8 teeth engaged in the cut at once.Because there are still as many teeth riding in the cut, you can utilize fewer teeth per inch as the wall thickness increases. However, cutting with too many teeth at once lowers the cut pressure and lowers the pound per square inch of blade pressure used to scrape or cut the metal. Too many teeth or insufficient downward pressure causes the teeth to simply slide while cutting very little. In order to maintain sufficient downward pressure so that the teeth you are employing are digging in and scraping out metal, you should choose a blade with fewer teeth per inch at this point.On the other hand, if there aren't enough teeth in the cut at once, the teeth will bite too forcefully and rip out of the cut. Therefore, depending on the thickness of the wall to be cut, you should select a blade that has an adequate number of teeth in contact at all times. This indicates that to ensure the longest-lasting blade functioning, we should switch blades frequently to keep within the ideal cutting range.It makes sense in theory. It's not that easy in real life. I'm using a blade with the fewest teeth per inch because the material I just sliced has a thick wall. My subsequent cut, though, has a thin wall and there is just one of them. Do I swap out the blades after a single cut? Time is money in my store. I've found that if I hold back a little bit of the saw's weight, I can cut thin walls with blades that have few teeth per inch without damaging the teeth because they aren't gripping a lot of metal at once.These days, I seldom ever change blades when going to thin walled metal since I've gotten so adept at recognizing when to partially retract the saw blade and not cut with full downward pressure. For everything, I only use blades with 10–14 teeth per inch. To avoid ripping off teeth when cutting thin-walled metal, I just don't let the saw push the teeth into the cut with a lot of force. These Morse blades are also quite accommodating. A MK Morse tooth hardly ever breaks under pressure that would destroy dozens of Milwaukee teeth.But I will take the effort to put on a blade with 18 to 24 teeth per inch if I need to make numerous cuts in thin-walled metal. However, it cuts through thick walled metal very slowly when there are many teeth per inch. But 95% of the time, I just use 10–14 teeth per inch and vary down pressure or hold back pressure, depending on the thickness of the wall I'm cutting. If I cut three, "When cutting through thick solid stock, I'll apply 20 pounds of pressure to the saw (plus the saws own weight). If I'm only making 1/8 "I will support two-thirds of the weight of the saw so that the teeth won't be driven too far into the metal.Because I returned to this page to make my third purchase of these Morse blades, I'm submitting this review. Currently, my opinion is based on testing and experience, and since I'm back here purchasing more, I though I'd share my labor of love with you.Happy cutting and best of luck.Please let me know if you find this review to be useful.
4.3/5
Rc 65-67 tooth hardness for increased wear resistance
Rc 65-67 Tooth Hardness For Increased Wear Resistance
Alloy Steel Backer for Fatigue Resistance
Matrix II High Speed Steel Edge for Heat and Wear Resistance
Alloy steel backer for fatigue resistance
8% Cobalt Content For Added Durability & Wear
Matrix II high speed steel edge for heat and wear resistance
8 percent cobalt content for added durability and wear
$234
Outstanding blades! I just completed three full cuts into a piece of mild steel measuring 2" by 6". It was easily handled by the blade. To keep the blade lubricated, I rubbed a little light oil into the wound. Even though the blade was going a little more slowly after the third cut, it was still cutting at a respectable speed. Without a doubt, I would buy these again.
4.3/5
Size: 32-7/8" x 0.020" 24 TPI
8% Cobalt Content For Added Durability & Wear. Alloy Steel Backer for Fatigue Resistance
Matrix II High Speed Steel Edge for Heat and Wear Resistance
Cordless bandsaw blades are ideal for thick metal, medium metal, and thin gauge metal cutting
Rc 65-67 Tooth Hardness For Increased Wear Resistance
$234
Many individuals who believe that the Dewalt portable bandsaw is just a weak toy that shouldn't be taken seriously are unaware of the fact that a significant portion of the secret lies in the use of these high quality blades and the proper blades for each task. Yes, the blades occasionally break and need to be replaced (which is why they come in a three pack), but the prices are reasonable and they do the job when cutting pipe, tubular steel, and rod stock without the need to bring out a lot of extra equipment. When you stop to think about it, the accuracy you can get with a handheld tool is astounding, and the rapidity with which I can utilize these in the portable bandsaw to cut lengths of steel for a fence or railing repair frequently attracts attention on job sites.
4.3/5
Long Lasting
Bi-metal blades bend and resist breaking and extend blade life
Tuff Tooth design reinforces tooth for longer blade life
High speed steel teeth provide a strong, long lasting cutting edge
Shatter Resistant
$234
For the price, these blades are excellent. My construction business regularly cuts steel, so we go through a lot of portable saw blades.Lenox is a fantastic brand that is affordable and has long-lasting sharpness. Although there are less expensive options available, quality does matter. Keep going; you'll thank me later.
3.9/5
Optimized tooth geometry for best cutting performance
Resists heat build up for longer life
Made from premium grade steel
$234
Let's be practical. Band saw blades for cutting metal are consumables. Anyone who uses one of these band saws quickly develops the habit of always keeping a spare on hand since eventually they do become dull and require replacement, or the blade unexpectedly wraps up and snaps. I don't belong to the group of people who have inflated hopes of discovering a saw blade that would last for ten years.I won't make an arbitrary attempt to estimate how long these blades will endure. For my experiences to be comparable to yours, there are too many differences in the types of metal you cut, the alloy of that metal, and how your saw is set up (speed, pressure, etc.). Instead of discussing how one blade compares to others for doing the exact same cutting configuration, I'll talk about how often I use my band saw and the different blades I've used.These blades are affordable, NOT made in China (the packages I generally receive state created in the UK), and have a good lifespan given their cost. This is not an exception to the Bosch policy of not endorsing subpar products, in my opinion. Although there are other blades out there that cost $25 and last longer, they do not last twice as long as this one, which I bought for $12. My experience is that these blades have a far better longevity to price ratio than the more expensive ones available. The idea is that a blade is a worse value than the cheaper blades if it costs twice as much but doesn't last twice as long.I currently solely purchase these blades.
3.7/5
Optimized tooth geometry delivers best performance
For general-purpose wood applications
Premium materials resist heat buildup for long life
Lengths fit most common band saw sizes
$234
I bought this blade to go with my Craftsman 10 "the band saw, and it fit well. It effortlessly moves through denser or heavier stock because it is well-made and has outstanding tracking. But because the wide (1/8 "This blade is NOT suitable for smooth, detailed cuts on thin, sensitive material due to the side pitch of the teeth. For it, you need a blade with a finer tooth pattern that is 15 TPI or comparable. I didn't know this one had such a broad cutting swath when I got it, and I'll probably get a 15 TPI blade for my typical trimming tasks (which is what my saw came with). If you keep in mind that this blade is NOT intended for delicate scroll or trim work, it will still serve its purpose admirably for ripping and rough cutting tasks. This one cuts quickly, but it's too harsh and outright unsafe for jobs requiring fine precision.
Bandsaw blades can be expensive, so it's important to know if it's worth sharpening them. The answer depends on the type of bandsaw blade and how often it's used. Some types of bandsaw blades can be sharpened multiple times, while others can only be sharpened once or twice. If a blade is only going to be used occasionally, it may not be worth sharpening it. However, if a blade is going to be used frequently, it's probably worth sharpening it. This will help to extend the life of the blade and
The number of teeth per inch is known as the teeth per inch, or TPI. The higher the TPI, the finer the cut. In general, the more teeth per inch, the better the quality of the cut.
The best bandsaw blades are those that are made of high quality materials and are designed to last. There are many different brands and types of bandsaw blades on the market, so it is important to do some research to find the right one for your needs. Some factors to consider when choosing a bandsaw blade include the type of material you will be cutting, the thickness of the blade, and the teeth per inch (TPI). The number of teeth per inch will determine how fast the blade cuts through the material. A blade with more teeth will make a smoother cut, but
Bandsaw blades are available in a variety of sizes and types. The three main types are regular, skip, and hook. Regular bandsaw blades are the most common type. They have a uniform tooth pattern and are designed for general purpose cutting. Skip bandsaw blades have a tooth pattern that skips over every other tooth. This design is used for cutting materials that are difficult to cut with a regular blade, such as stainless steel. Hook bandsaw blades have a tooth pattern that is curved like a hook. This design is used for cutting materials that
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