Yes, you can spray clear coat over clear coat, as long as the existing clear coat is in good condition. If the clear coat is peeling or flaking, it needs to be removed before applying new clear coat.
You can brush on automotive clear coat, but it is not recommended. Clear coat is typically sprayed on in a controlled environment to ensure an even coat. When brushing, it is difficult to avoid brush strokes and get an even finish.
Topcoat is a clear or colored varnish or resin that is typically applied over paint to protect it and give it a glossy finish. The topcoat can be either oil-based or water-based. Most paint jobs will only require one coat of topcoat, but there are some situations where a second coat may be necessary. If you are painting a dark color over a light color, or painting a light color over a dark color, you may need to apply a second coat of topcoat to even out the color and prevent streaking. If you are painting
When applying a new top coat of paint to your vehicle, you may be wondering if you need to sand between the top coat and the clear coat. The answer is usually no. The top coat should be applied directly to the bare metal or primer, and then the clear coat can be applied over the top. If you are painting over an existing paint job, you may need to lightly sand the surface to help the new paint adhere.
4.8/5
Effectively adapts to the expansion and shrinkage of surface caused by temperature changes. Does not crack, chip, or peel from the surface substrate. Eliminates the need for a sacrificial zinc primer system. Heat resistant up to 450F / 232C
Uses: automotive, marine, industrial, and home
Completely waterproof. Abrasion chemical, stain, and impact resistant
Absolute Coating, Rust Preventive, Gloss Black, 4 oz. paint. POR-45032
Protects your investment. Single component permanent moisture cured urethane. Self-leveling when applied with a brush
$234
I adore this item. Period. Paints over rust and has a great appearance.For long-lasting applications and a smooth, glossy finish, preparation is crucial.Use a metal prep, follow the directions, make sure it's completely dried, keep an eye out for drips, and keep it away from your skin.WARNING! It cannot be removed without using severe chemicals or forceful physical means from your skin, clothes, driveway, or garage floor.
4.5/5
Lasting protection for any hot surface up to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit
Works equally well on exhaust headers, pipes, engine blocks, and other applications where coatings are required
Penetrates, seals, protects and prolongs the lifespan of exhaust wrap
Protection from abrasions, hot oil spills, and road grime
Recommended for use with DEI non-Titanium exhaust wraps
$234
Mine started to smoke a bit after I ran it for the first time, but it stopped after about an hour and is holding up fantastically so far. I can't say for sure how well the color is holding up because I used a wrap that was already black, but it definitely keeps the wrap together and prevents it from fraying out as much. I wrapped the pipes in water, rode my bike to dry them, removed the pipes, coated the wrapped pipes with silicone spray, waited about a day, installed the pipes, and then went for a ride to allow the paint to set.
4.4/5
1 Cangun1 Trigger Spray Tool
2 Cans of Glossifier Plasti Dip Aerosol Spray
4 Cans of Black Plasti Dip Aerosol Spray
$234
I immediately gave my 17' focus st a more aggressive aspect and a smile. In order to remove all the dirt, I first used a power washer, which worked reasonably well but left bubbles in the plasti dip afterward. So I went and got some rim cleaner and sprayed that on, and the second time it worked out perfectly.For the best results, I strongly advise doing one rim at a time and removing the wheel from your car. I wouldn't have been able to stop the bubbling if I had attempted to do them all at once. If you want to preserve your factory rims but want to make them black or don't have the money to buy new black rims, this is a great product that I would highly recommend.
4.4/5
Absolute Coatings (POR15) Caliper Paint, Black, 8 oz. (POR-42606)
$234
You should buy a few sets of hobby brushes to complete this task, in my opinion. The tiny brush, which was 1/2 inch wide, was ideal. For particularly intricate sections, you might want one that is even smaller.I'll also add a few recommendations, all of which are significant points to think about:First off, keep in mind how dangerous this material might be. Use only in well-ventilated (outdoor) locations, with long sleeves and medical gloves if possible. This contains isocyanates; it is not a joke. Aim to keep it off your skin and stay away from the vapors. Without a respirator, as long as you are working outside and are not sniffing the can, you should be fine. Use common judgment, and you'll be OK. I'm not trying to scare people away from it. The isocyanates in this paint are extremely nasty, so it's not like regular paint. Be safe and conduct independent research.- If you want to paint your calipers properly, you must start a TWO-DAY JOB. Be ready for it.- Avoid hanging calipers on flexible brake lines since doing so will harm them. If you don't want to entirely remove your calipers from the car, get some sturdy wire or coat hangers to hang them on. While the paint dries, they must be hung.- Get some mineral spirits and stock up on them; you don't want to be without them in the event of an accident. If you don't want to throw your brushes away in between coats, you'll also need it to clean them.If you are paranoid, wash, wax, and seal your car's paint; I'm pleased I did, and I'll explain why later. In case you were wondering, I use Klasse sealer.ââŹâ To properly prepare, I began by using brake cleaner and a wire brush (even though my car was brand new). If your brakes are in poor condition, use a degreaser; it MUST be clean. Finally, use carb cleaner. Oils MUST be completely removed. Take care of your skin and eyes!- Apply masking tape to any areas where you DO NOT want this material. You don't want paint or oils on your brake rotor surfaces, so maintain them as clean as possible. Later, the material will lodge itself in your brake pads, decreasing their efficiency and producing odd surging, among other things.- Before painting, use the POR 15 Metal Prep; DON'T omit it. You can purchase it on Amazon or as part of a complete kit. I bought the paint and prep separately because I didn't want the set and instead wanted my own brushes and other supplies.- Stop, go back, and clean the area once more if you notice fisheye or spots where the paint appears to be eroding as you apply the paint. Here, oils are your enemy.- Use small brushes to apply the paint in a few, somewhat thick layers. It appears somewhat awful as you apply it, but if you use a thick enough final coat, it will level out and turn glossy. You can apply a somewhat thinner first coat, but apply a moderately hefty second and final layer (not dripping or running).- Before applying the second layer, allow the first coat to dry for at least 12 hours. Once more, wait at least 12 hours for that to cure before attempting to put everything back together. Care must be taken when handling the paint because it will still be slightly soft. After so many days of warm weather, it ultimately becomes rock hard. I'm not sure how long because I wasn't paying attention.- Don't be fooled by the small can. I was concerned that 1 cup of paint wouldn't be nearly enough, but it will easily cover 4 large calipers and there will be enough of extra.Final thoughtMy car is BRAND NEW, so I freaked out when I unknowingly gripped the fender of my car while working on my calipers with my paint-covered gloves. I didn't realize it for maybe half an hour or so. I'm glad I used paint sealer first. It was easily removed using mineral spirits and a microfiber towel. I'm not sure if I would have had the same result if it hadn't been waxed and sealed or if it had stayed on there all night. Just be ready for mishaps. Wear the safety gear; it is affordable.After preparing, I applied 2 layers, allowing each coat to cure for 18 hours. I finished all four rotors' exposed surfaces and still had two-thirds of the can. With this tiny container, you can simply service all 4 calipers on 2 autos. More of it was used to roll around underneath my car and touch up dings on the chassis and suspension where I could.This task won't likely work out well if you rush it. Allow the material to cure slowly. You'll undoubtedly be pleased with this product if you follow the instructions and put in the preparation effort.Good fortune!
4.2/5
Direct to Metal (DTM) Rust Preventive Paint
UV resistant
No Need for Primer or Undercoat
Use over POR-15 Rust Preventive
$234
When I was looking into rust prevention for a project that had been long in the worksââŹârestoring my 1985 Jeep CJ-7 from the frame upââŹâI came upon this product. I had heard about POR-15 previously and after reading some favorable reviews, I made the decision to test it. Continue reading if you want to extend the metal's useful life for whatever it is you're trying to preserve or restore.Prior to beginning, you would be wise to read the POR-15 instructions in their entirety. And if you take nothing else I'm saying with you, at least pay attention to this piece of advice: make sure you completely cover yourself before using POR-15! Put on a worn-out long sleeve T-shirt, some jogging sweats, or a pair of unattractive old jeans. Depending on the magnitude of your job, they'll likely be trashed by the time you're done. You might also get one of those one-piece painter's costumes that are available at most paint, autoparts, and big-box hardware stores. Yes, they are warm and rather oppressive, but it sure beats having this material adhere to your skin for a few days or weeks. (Haha, don't ask me how I know.) Just keep in mind that, short of scraping your friggin' skin off, if it gets on your skin, it WILL NOT wash off. POR-15 must fade away, much like a dye. Never claim not to have been warned! Speaking of protecting yourself, you should make sure your project is protected underneath if you're working in a garage. Place your project on a clean, tarp-free surface and roll your vehicle chassis onto it. Insurance is inexpensive. Otherwise, you'll have to scrape and chisel any POR-15 that drips or splashes on your floor off. NO fun. More than 3 years after glopping the material on and having it land in/on areas I hadn't meant, I still have patches in my garage!For projects with a lot of rust, the POR-15 guys advise some preparation work. They also provide a spray for fresh or clean surfaces that is intended to "etch" metal chemically in order to improve coating retention. To remove the larger scale and rust deposits, I first just used a grinder with a wire wheel cup attachment. After giving it some thought, I made the decision to have the entire chassis professionally sandblasted. (Making this decision revealed how thoroughly corroded through the rear arms of my CJ frame, so it was a wise one. It was necessary to fabricate and weld new steel pieces into the damaged area.) Anyway, I painted the Jeep's frame with two layers. POR-15 is simple to apply and can be brushed or rolled directly on top of pre-existing rust. The POR-15 is holding up incredibly well after almost 3 years, proving that the time it required to complete the job right was worthwhile.One more bit of advice: place a piece of plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) between the can and the lid if there is any of the product left in the can after you are through using it. If some of this material enters the groove and you just tamp the lid shut, you will have in essence permanently bonded the cover on. It's easiest to tape the can's rim with masking or painter's tape, purchase one of those reusable rubber pouring spouts with sealable lids, and pour a tiny amount into a single-use bucket or pail while continually replenishing it. If the bucket is simply left open, it could take a little bit longer, but it will help prevent POR-15 from drying out too soon. If any of it gets into the lid groove, it will also help prevent the annoying "lid welding" error.In conclusion, POR-15 is quite pricey, but if you're working on a project and want it to survive, it's money well-spent.
4.2/5
Easy to use
Formulated to bond with the unique chemical structure of cured Plasti Dip for superior adhesion and long life
Will not become brittle and crack in extreme temperatures
Use over Plastic Dipped items
$234
On my silver Audi when I first started, I had anthracite wheels, which everyone mistakenly believed were black. Anything dark simply looks black when compared to a light-colored automobile. Time to try something fresh after getting more than 4 years out of that dip before having tires installed messed it up.In order to brighten the color in the accompanying pictures, I substituted a gray base for the customary black base. Shop around. I was able to find basic colors locally for a significant discount compared to ordering them. The base color will show through because the graphite is more of a transparent with graphite flakes. It was exactly 4 coats of gray, 2 coats of graphite, and 2 coats of glossifier in my recipe (more for protection than shine). To get it to peel and cover properly after dried, use at least 4 full cans of base. The cans have a tendency to splutter as they run low. When that happens, use the remaining can to spray overspray on the tire sidewalls so that it will eventually peel off in a single, pristine layer.When used properly, this stuff is excellent. Before attempting, do some study and watch several DYC videos. You'll be rewarded for being patient.
4.2/5
Use over POR-15 Rust Preventive
Direct to Metal (DTM) Rust Preventive Paint
UV resistant
No Need for Primer or Undercoat
$234
When I was looking into rust prevention for a project that had been long in the worksââŹârestoring my 1985 Jeep CJ-7 from the frame upââŹâI came upon this product. I had heard about POR-15 previously and after reading some favorable reviews, I made the decision to test it. Continue reading if you want to extend the metal's useful life for whatever it is you're trying to preserve or restore.Prior to beginning, you would be wise to read the POR-15 instructions in their entirety. And if you take nothing else I'm saying with you, at least pay attention to this piece of advice: make sure you completely cover yourself before using POR-15! Put on a worn-out long sleeve T-shirt, some jogging sweats, or a pair of unattractive old jeans. Depending on the magnitude of your job, they'll likely be trashed by the time you're done. You might also get one of those one-piece painter's costumes that are available at most paint, autoparts, and big-box hardware stores. Yes, they are warm and rather oppressive, but it sure beats having this material adhere to your skin for a few days or weeks. (Haha, don't ask me how I know.) Just keep in mind that, short of scraping your friggin' skin off, if it gets on your skin, it WILL NOT wash off. POR-15 must fade away, much like a dye. Never claim not to have been warned! Speaking of protecting yourself, you should make sure your project is protected underneath if you're working in a garage. Place your project on a clean, tarp-free surface and roll your vehicle chassis onto it. Insurance is inexpensive. Otherwise, you'll have to scrape and chisel any POR-15 that drips or splashes on your floor off. NO fun. More than 3 years after glopping the material on and having it land in/on areas I hadn't meant, I still have patches in my garage!For projects with a lot of rust, the POR-15 guys advise some preparation work. They also provide a spray for fresh or clean surfaces that is intended to "etch" metal chemically in order to improve coating retention. To remove the larger scale and rust deposits, I first just used a grinder with a wire wheel cup attachment. After giving it some thought, I made the decision to have the entire chassis professionally sandblasted. (Making this decision revealed how thoroughly corroded through the rear arms of my CJ frame, so it was a wise one. It was necessary to fabricate and weld new steel pieces into the damaged area.) Anyway, I painted the Jeep's frame with two layers. POR-15 is simple to apply and can be brushed or rolled directly on top of pre-existing rust. The POR-15 is holding up incredibly well after almost 3 years, proving that the time it required to complete the job right was worthwhile.One more bit of advice: place a piece of plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) between the can and the lid if there is any of the product left in the can after you are through using it. If some of this material enters the groove and you just tamp the lid shut, you will have in essence permanently bonded the cover on. It's easiest to tape the can's rim with masking or painter's tape, purchase one of those reusable rubber pouring spouts with sealable lids, and pour a tiny amount into a single-use bucket or pail while continually replenishing it. If the bucket is simply left open, it could take a little bit longer, but it will help prevent POR-15 from drying out too soon. If any of it gets into the lid groove, it will also help prevent the annoying "lid welding" error.In conclusion, POR-15 is quite pricey, but if you're working on a project and want it to survive, it's money well-spent.
3.5/5
Ideal for use on all OEM paint surfaces, Perfect Match is available in a complete line of exact-match colors for current and late model import and domestic vehicles making
This product ideal for both small scale vehicle touch-up and for painting vehicle accessories
Dupli-Color perfect match premium automotive paint is an easy-to-use, high-quality, fast-drying, acrylic lacquer aerosol paint specially formulated to exactly match the color of the original factory applied coating
$234
A body shop wanted to paint the entire fender, but I was unable to find one that would accept my offer to blend in a repair on a series of 4" x 4" scrapes.Using the Perfect Match primer and color coat as a base, I applied this as the finishing coat to a repair. Since all three goods are completely compatible with one another, there won't be any unexpected wrinkles.Before using this clear coat, I gave the base coat a week to fully dry. I merely wanted to confirm that everything was secure.If you plan to drive while painting, please make sure to wipe down the repair with alcohol at least once between the primer, color, and clear processes (NOT between applications, though). This is important since any wax or oils that get on the repair will make the paint adhere poorly. At all costs, avoid painting outside or during muggy weather. A finish free of orange peel and fish eyes will be your prize.To achieve a respectable "gloss" over the color coat, 6 applications of clear were necessary. Take your time and give each coat 10 minutes to dry before applying the subsequent applications. Don't worry if the first few applications appear frosted; just keep applying coats until you can see a sheen setting up.Any places that you don't want overspray on must be mask off. I repaired the majority of my "front clip" by covering it. Because of the stickiness of this material, any excess spray will need to be removed using a somewhat abrasive chemical. Especially if you don't feather in the final few applications, be prepared to sand and buff away the tape line if you mask with tape.As with any paint repair, you will need to gently increase the repair area with each step by overlapping your spray target. For each phase, aim for a 1/2" expansion and accept 1". Avoid the urge to overlap excessively to avoid painting the entire panel, as many body shops would like to do. In order to give the clear something to hold onto when I feathered in the final few coats, I lightly wet sanded the color coat and enlarged it significantly to the good factory finish with 2000 grit paper.And speaking of buffing, you will need to buff with a power buffer and the right compound to finish the blending process (or series of compounds if you are fussy). I gave it another week after applying the clear to make sure it was sufficiently firm in order to prevent any lifting. At that point, it could tolerate some fairly vigorous buffing, and I was able to match the PM clear's color to the factory shine.
2K clear coat can last on a car for many years if applied and maintained correctly. If left exposed to the elements without any protection, it will start to degrade and break down much quicker.
A car typically needs two to three coats of clear coat. The first coat should be applied thinly, and the subsequent coats should be applied more thickly.
Factory clear coat is typically around 2-3 mils thick. Some aftermarket clear coats can be as much as 6 mils thick.
A top coat is a clear, protective finish applied over nail polish. It helps prolong the life of your manicure, prevents chipping and adds a glossy shine. Some top coats also contain ingredients that strengthen nails. While a top coat is not required, it is recommended if you want your manicure to last longer.
When it comes to protecting your carââŹâ˘s paint job, you have two main choices: wax or clear coat. So, which is better? Wax is better at protecting against things like water spots and UV damage, while clear coat does a better job of protecting against scratches and other types of wear and tear. Ultimately, the best choice for you depends on your driving habits and how much time youââŹâ˘re willing to spend maintaining your carââŹâ˘s finish. If you live in an area with lots of sun and you donââŹâ˘t mind regularly wax
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