An oxygen sensor is a key part of a car's emission control system. It is used to monitor the oxygen levels in the exhaust gas. If the oxygen levels are too high or too low, it can indicate a problem with the engine. Aftermarket oxygen sensors can be a good option if you are looking to replace your car's oxygen sensor. They can be cheaper than purchasing a new sensor from a dealership, and they can be just as effective. However, it is important to do your research to make sure you are buying a quality product. There are many aftermarket oxygen sensors
You may be able to replace your oxygen sensor yourself, but it will depend on your car and your own level of expertise. If you're not confident in your ability to do the job, it's probably best to leave it to a professional.
No, you cannot use a downstream oxygen sensor for upstream. The reason for this is because the downstream oxygen sensor is only designed to measure the oxygen content in the exhaust gas after it has passed through the combustion chamber. The upstream oxygen sensor, on the other hand, is designed to measure the oxygen content in the air before it enters the combustion chamber.
If your car's oxygen sensor is faulty, it may run less efficiently and produce more emissions. Additionally, you may notice reduced fuel economy and performance. In some cases, a faulty oxygen sensor can cause your car to run too lean, which can damage the engine.
4.9/5
** NOTE: PRODUCT IMAGE MAY NOT BE VEHICLE SPECIFIC
$234
Bung of Excellent Quality, Especially for the Price. In order to have 2 extras on hand in case I need to perform 02 maintenance on any other cars, I ordered 4 of these. Before my Pops and I install the engine in his 1969 F100, I'm going to install a set of 1976 Cragar Headers on my 5.0 to test and tune it on the engine stand. These welded up flawlessly and fitted nicely after being cleaned with brake cleaner. The bungs are flat on both sides, and the header collector is spherical, which is the main drawback. To match the shape of the header collector, I could have certainly ground them down on one side, but I wanted to see how they would fit without being notched. They fit perfectly, and I'm pleased I ordered 2 extra so I could move the 02 sensors to a better location on my 1990 Lincoln Mark VII.
4.7/5
** NOTE: PRODUCT IMAGE MAY NOT BE VEHICLE SPECIFIC
$234
To replace the upstream oxygen/AFR sensors on my 2003 Honda Accord V6, which call for a 22mm (7/8) socket, I bought this socket "to take out the socket. Just to save myself the time and aggravation of having to remove the sensors with normal tools, this socket was well worth the $8 I spent for it. It honestly took me less than 15 minutes to replace both sensors using this socket. According to my observations, the socket is quite firmly constructed and does not flex or slip as some other reviewers mentioned. Given the prevalence of oxygen sensors, this is a useful tool to keep on hand in your toolbox, especially given its low cost and simplicity. It truly saves time and hassle. If the oxygen sensor required a 22mm or 7/8, I wouldn't think twice about recommending it to someone who needs a socket for one "plug.
4.7/5
Offset drive with wire gate accesses sensor from the side, not the top, preventing damage to wires
Removes and installs oxygen sensors on vehicles with computer-controlled engines
High-performance chrome molybdenum steel construction
Use with any 3/8 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar
Common 6 point, 7/8 in. (22mm) socket fits most oxygen sensors
$234
If your O2 sensor is not rusty and stuck in place, this works wonderfully. When sensors are seriously rusted in, heat may be helpful or replacing that portion of the exhaust system may be the best option. People leaving in the previous trapped sensor and welding in a new position for it have been reported. (Drill a fresh hole, and weld the threaded component from a different automobile.This instrument was about to slip as it extended out across me. However, I'm not entirely sure that blaming the tool is appropriate. It has a gap for the wire, which makes it vulnerable to spreading until under very strong torque. None of the other O2 sensor plugs I have will function.If you're really determined to pull it out, you can cut the wire, break off the end, and then attack it with a standard impact socket and powerful impact weapon. Spray WD40 or PB Blaster on it, possibly use a can of that to try to freeze it, and then heat the exhaust pipe. (MAP gas may not be hot enough despite being hotter than propane.)In the end, I was able to remove mine using a friend's extremely hot torch and a Knipex Pliers wrench with a pipe on one handle. This truck, which is nearly 20 years old and has spent its whole life in the rust belt, is from Minnesota.
4.7/5
Use with 3/4" hex socket or 3/8" square drive; Size: M18x1.5
Also works on M18x1.5 spark plug threads; important: Use anti-seize
Cleans Threads in Oxygen Sensor Holes
$234
saving grace! Without one of these, no O2 replacement should be attempted. Made in the USA, excellent quality, and capable of handling hundreds of O2 changes before wearing out make this a real professional money-making instrument. The new sensor will fit in perfectly if you run this tool back and forth in the O2 hole like you would with any thread tap. You never know when you'll need it most—I had to use it on a brand-new converter.9-13-2016: This tool continues to astound me! In the past six months, I have utilized this three times to finish O2 projects. One was where the sensor was mostly welded into a cast iron manifold. After successfully removing the old O2 sensor, I saw that it had left some threads in the manifold, making it impossible for the new one to even attempt to go in. I pulled out this tool and fixed the threads. After a short while, the new O2 sensor was installed with plenty of anti-seize and was correctly tightened. Get this tool; it will be worth it to do this task properly.
4.6/5
Manufactured with precision to meet OE standards
Designed to detect the amount of oxygen in the exhaust system
Constructed from high quality material
Easy installation
Features double protection layer, aluminum oxide trap layer, PTFE filter and stainless steel housing
$234
At 120k miles, the original front O2 sensors start to slow down. The vehicle had started to become sluggish over the previous several thousand miles, with a weak idle, sporadic partial-throttle surges, and poor gas mileage. No Check Engine lights ever came on when these problems existed. The fuel pressure was really good.The MAF needed to be cleaned first. Only minimal assistance for the identified drivability problems.These front O2 sensors were installed. A quick improvement occurred. After the installation of two new front sensors, the vehicle drove entirely differently.You may or may not be aware that O2 sensors slow down with age. They significantly slow down—in some situations, sampling only once a second or even slower—instead of sampling up to 10 times each second. That amount of time, which is spent waiting for new data from the O2 sensors so that the ECM may modify the mixture appropriately, is an eternity to a modern fuel-injected engine. There is also a serious doubt as to the accuracy of the data obtained from the outdated sensors after it was provided.With the front of the car raised on ramps, installation takes less than 15 minutes each installation. It was simple to reach both front sensors from underneath.
4.6/5
Easy Installation
$234
For use with a 3.0" MBRP catted downpipe on a 2014 Focus ST, this was purchased. To get all of the OBDII monitors to read "Ready State" for emissions testing, this adapter/restrictor must be used. The fundamental problem is that the O2 sensor is seeing too much flow after a high flow exhaust and/or a tune. I put the smallest restrictor insert between the converter and the oxygen sensor, as has been recommended by others, and I mounted the unit. As the O2 sensor had been put for approximately a year and had a few obstructions, it was a little difficult to have access to it in my configuration. The charge pipe and a lower G-Load brace I have had to remove to make room for the O2 sensor to be accessed and removed, but after they were out of the way, everything went according to plan.Evidently, getting all monitors ready will take a few drive cycles. If you are reading this, it is advised that you include this component in your setup well before you require an inspection. When the exhaust was improved, I would have initially fitted this component if I had known. I'll wait a few weeks to see how things turn out (hopefully will clear before I go to get inspection). If I have any problems, I'll update this review. Just to add a few additional information, this configuration makes use of a Cobb AP-V3 tuned for 93 octane.This fitting has excellent welds, a smooth finish, and is of high quality and durability. It easily slid onto the Focus ST. You can position the restrictor in the J-style shaped design's locking nut in the direction that best suits your application. On the Focus, it appears that the O2 sensor is best aligned when facing the front of the car. If you are installing the O2 sensor after the fact, don't forget to clean the threads on the O2 sensor and the bung on the Cat to eliminate any loose rust that may have accumulated. Additionally, apply some anti-seize compound to all of the threads. This will make it much simpler to take out or replace the O2 sensor in the future. Three different size inserts are included with this adaptor. Even though I selected the smallest insert, I think any of the other restrictor inserts might have been effective. To install the snap ring and hold the insert in place, you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. The snap ring is part of the kit, so you can use it to guarantee that you obtain the right size pliers. It was simple to choose the appropriate size for this application because I have a tool box of snap ring pliers with several sized ends. Ask me how I know this since it comes out of the instrument extremely tiny and you don't want to lose it.As previously said, this is a suggested and highly helpful item if you are using modified exhaust (catless or hi-flow cat) and obtaining a CEL or passing an inspection based on OBDII monitors.
4.5/5
Protection tube ensures 100% accurate sensor performance
Fast-acting heater optimizes sensor operation (on3- and 4- wire sensors only)
Double laser-welded stainless steel body is totally submersible to seal tight and protect against contamination for long life
Coated threads for easy installation
$234
P1131 Ford Ranger ErrorP1131 code on a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 3.0 Flex Fuel.Lack Of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean is what error code P1131 stands for.The same potential causes apply to code P1130: Overinflated fuel pressure After the fuel pump went "ca-chunk," I would give it a couple more "ca-chunks" to really top off the tank. My 2000 Ranger would always get the Check Engine Light two days after filling up. After I stopped doing that, the error code was 95% gone. Occasionally, when I fill up and it gets really hot outside, the fuel expands and sets the error code, but this happens much less frequently than it used to.I replaced the PCV valve for $9. (really easy and no tools required: just fingers). Additionally, I cleaned my IAC valve using cleanser. I only get a P1131 code once a month as opposed to every week. After taking the steps outlined above—including making sure my gas tank wasn't overfilled—I decided to clean my MAF sensor for fun. I used circuit board cleaner, but if you're unsure, CRC also makes a specialized MAF spray cleaner. I also cleaned the large connector for the flex fuel sensor, which is located inside the rail behind the truck's driver's seat. Occasionally, these connectors become clogged with mud or water.I also replaced the fuel filter as a precaution (even though I de-compressed the system it still sprayed like 4 dixie cups worth of gasoline when I unhooked it—be careful).It turns out that the majority of my issues were caused by either overfilling or filling just before a significant increase in outdoor temperature that swelled the gas in the tank. DUH! It was always strange when folks would suggest changing the sensor because your 02 sensor was malfunctioning. Think about it this way: if your home's smoke alarm went off, would you really buy a new one? You extinguished the fire. So, I've had this problem since 2003, and I've now resolved it by not topping off my gasoline tank. I also believe that carb cleaner in the IAC valve assisted in eliminating the harsh idle.And everything was OK up to the first spark plug change in history at 93k: the mileage increased, but the CEL lit up constantly! The right (passenger side) upstream (closest to the engine near the front tire) O2 sensor replacement with this item worked, and I now have an idle that is so smooth it almost feels like new!THE ABOVE REPAIRSOh, and if you have a Ford Ranger, you can also remove the battery and turn the key on and off six times to clear a CEL code. Your radio station settings are also cleared along with the code;)Additional P1130 and P1131 issues include:Fuel system pressure or issue (leaky fuel filter or vapor system, overfilled gas tank, leaking/losing fuel pressure). Lone oil dipstick causing low oil pressure.poisoned or leaking fuel injectors. EGR valve stuck. A surplus of oil or overfilled. PCV valve difficulty. Vacuum, exhaust, or cylinder leak. leaky hoses or gaskets. PCM or HO2s sensor damage. Water in the wire connectors for the VPWR, HO2, or Flex Fuel.
4.4/5
Protection tube ensures 100% accurate sensor performance
Fast-acting heater optimizes sensor operation (on3- and 4- wire sensors only)
Double laser-welded stainless steel body is totally submersible to seal tight and protect against contamination for long life
Coated threads for easy installation
$234
My 2004 Solara convertible's standard exhaust system required numerous modifications before the dreaded PO420 (catalytic system efficiency below threshold Bank 1) code disappeared. It would not have been feasible to pass the emissions test and renew the tag without a remedy. The issue was promptly resolved after this device's simple installation! This is a fix if you have a modified exhaust system (catless or high-flow cat) and are getting a CEL or failing an inspection based on OBDII monitoring. Worth every cent of its fair cost! highly advisable
4.3/5
3/8 inch square drive for use with ratchet
Slotted design allows removing oxygen sensor with wiring harness attached
Offset oxygen sensor socket provides extra leverage for easier removal even in hard to reach spots.
Slotted design allows removing oxygen sensor with wiring harness attached
Precision casting for strength and accurate fit. 7/8" (22mm) hex fits almost all oxygen sensors
Precision casting for strength and accurate fit
Offset oxygen sensor socket provides extra leverage for easier removal even in hard to reach spots
7/8 inch (22 millimeter) hex fits almost all oxygen sensors
$234
It can become quite a project to do this. These two items are unquestionably necessary: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00390BS7C/ref=oh aui detailpage o02 s00?ie=UTF8
4.1/5
Protection tube ensures 100% accurate sensor performance
Coated threads for easy installation
Double laser-welded stainless steel body is totally submersible to seal tight and protect against contamination for long life
Fast-acting heater optimizes sensor operation (on3- and 4- wire sensors only)
$234
My 2000 Chevy C2500's 5.7L fits. These Downstream O2 sensors are compatible with the vehicle's O2 connectors, and each one has a plastic plug extender to secure it to the frame. Since this unit had its own plastic plug and there was no need to fight to keep the previous one, it was fine to cut through the older one. I'm not sure how long this unit will last, but I installed two of these in the downstream spot after replacing my catalytic convertors (there are two on this make and model of truck), and I purchased the two upstream O2 sensors separately because they have a different connector. When everything was installed, the truck passed the state's Smog Test. Installation time, if you have to crawl under the truck, is 30 minutes for all four. simple installation I advise spraying oil onto the outdated sensors and letting them sit for a while. The old ones came out easily without the need to run the truck or heat the exhaust pipes because I sprayed them a day in advance.
Yes, you can use different brands of oxygen sensors. However, it is important to check with your vehicle's manufacturer to see if they have any specific recommendations. Additionally, you may want to consult a mechanic or automotive specialist to see if they have a preference.
Yes, AutoZone does replace O2 sensors.
If your oxygen sensor needs to be replaced, Jiffy Lube can do that for you. They will also check your engine light to see if it is on and reset it if necessary.
If your car's oxygen sensor is faulty, it will cause your engine to run inefficiently. There are two types of oxygen sensors- upstream and downstream. The upstream sensor is located before the catalytic converter, while the downstream sensor is located after the converter. To check if your upstream sensor is bad, you can use a voltmeter to test the sensor's output. The ideal output voltage should be between 0.1 and 0.9 volts. If the sensor is not outputting any voltage, or if the voltage is outside of this range, then the sensor is most likely
An oxygen sensor is a key component in a car's emissions control system. It helps to ensure that the car is running as efficiently as possible. When an oxygen sensor needs to be replaced, it is usually because it has become less effective over time and is no longer able to properly monitor the air-fuel mixture in the engine. The average cost to replace an oxygen sensor is between $200 and $400.
If you need to get your oxygen sensors replaced, the cost will depend on the make and model of your vehicle, the number of sensors that need to be replaced, and the labor costs. Expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $1,000 for the entire job.
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