There's no definitive answer to this question since it depends on individual circumstances. Some factors to consider include the size of your engine, the size of your drivetrain, the terrain you'll be riding on, and your personal riding style. That said, many riders find that oversized pulleys offer significant advantages in terms of strength, durability, and efficiency.
If your car engine has an idler pulley, then it is necessary to have it functioning properly. If the idler pulley is not working, then the engine will overheat and eventually seize up. It is possible to drive without an idler pulley, but it is not advisable.
A idler pulley is a small wheel that helps guide and tension a belt or chain. Idler pulleys can be found on a variety of machinery, from lawn mowers to car engines. While idler pulleys generally do not make noise, if the pulley is worn out or damaged, it can create a squeaking or grinding noise. If you notice your idler pulley making noise, it is best to replace it as soon as possible to avoid further damage to your machinery.
A smaller pulley will spin faster than a larger pulley if both are attached to the same shaft and are turning at the same speed. This is because a smaller pulley has less mass and less inertia, so it can accelerate and change speed more quickly than a larger pulley.
4.6/5
Manufactured to strict engineering quality standards
Durable steel construction
Bolts allows adjustment of Idler Pulleys
No special tools necessary
$234
In order to fit in the adjusting bracket, the OEM tensioner adjustment bolt for the Lancer is naked and tapered towards the head.This tensioner adjusting bolt is too large to fit since it is threaded and has the same diameter over its whole length.The mounting bolt for the tensioner is also too big to thread into the adjustment bracket.Despite being warned it wouldn't, some reviewers have had success with this fitting their vehicles. This is not the case. For that reason, I'm ending this review.
4.5/5
Bearing is designed for application specific speed and load requirements
Steel or thermoplastic construction that provides high durability for long life
Provides reliable operation under severe conditions for year round performance
Has mounting hardware included on some popular applications as an added feature
$234
The old one's bearing had a little play, so I bought and fitted an AC Delco Flanged Pully. In actuality, this is the pulley that attaches to the belt tensioner on my 2003 Grand Am's 3.4 V6 engine.The serpatine belt was loosened, the belt tensioner was taken out, the bolt holding the pulley on was taken out, the new pulley was inserted, and everything was put back together. Job takes about 15 minutes and is great.Two cautions for individuals performing this for the first time. Put it in place and tighten the pulley bolt. Verify that it spins freely. For some reason, it appears to be identical on both sides, yet only one side did not rub against the belt tensioner's body. I turned the pulley around, and now it is freewheeling. Although the instructions state that in certain cases you may need to remove the dust guard on the pulley bolt to ensure it is free-wheeling, in my situation I was able to re-install the dust guard and it did not rub against the pulley.
4.5/5
Provides reliable operation under severe conditions for year round performance
Has mounting hardware included on some popular applications as an added feature
Steel or thermoplastic construction that provides high durability for long life
Bearing is designed for application specific speed and load requirements
$234
With a little TLC and some inexpensive DIY Amazon components, my 2001 Silverado 1500 with 221,000 miles is operating flawlessly! This is not the tensioner unit, but the idle pulley for the main drive belt. In addition to this pulley component, the idler pulley on the engine also has a bolt, a pulley retainer washer, and a spacer. Amazon offers the whole kit for three times the price or simply the pulley and bearing as seen above. These are the discounted pricing from Amazon for this pulley, which cost approximately $13, and the assembly, which cost about $35. I don't see any incentive at all to purchase the assembly. The bearing is the only thing that ages. With just one bolt, disassemble the existing pulley assembly. Replace the old pulley and bearing with the new pulley and bearing, reusing the bolt, retention washer, and spacer from the previous assembly. Install the components exactly how they were removed. It's ridiculously simple! It is quite affordable! It looks brand new! It is really authentic! It's silent! I should mention that the upper portion of the fan guard, two ring clamps, and the air duct must be removed before working on the drive belt, tensioner, or idler pulley (6 plastic push-pin connectors, and two small bolts). Very simple! Consider the hundreds of dollars you're saving compared to a repair shop. I idler pulley and tensioner in 3 hours while sipping coffee and taking pleasure in a Saturday morning in the garage.
4.5/5
New products, new solutions, new opportunities
Quality materials used
Formally dealer only parts now available in the aftermarket
$234
These were utilized to replace the original pulleys, which had over 150k miles, on my 2001 Grand Am SE V6 3400. I decided that because the originals were still in excellent condition and made no noise after 150k miles, I should just replace them this time around along with the belt and water pump.My bolts' OEM dust covers fit perfectly with these pulleys. While the appearance is quite similar to the originals, there is a larger space between the OEM dust covers and the pulley inner face due to the larger inner rim design. Not enough to make me worry. However, it differs slightly from stock. but far less expensive. And they have been quiet so far. Given that my old ones were still quiet, I was concerned that the new, less expensive ones might be noisy as well. With any luck, they will continue to be silent for the next 150k miles. The provided spacer is not necessary for my application, so I did not utilize it.The closest thing to original for my 2001 V6 Grand Am, but still a wonderful value.
4.4/5
Repair noisy idler pulley bearing
Manufactured to GM OE specification for fit, form, and function
GM-recommended replacement part for your GM vehicle’s original factory component
Offering the quality, reliability, and durability of GM OE
$234
Duramax from 2002 with 249,000 miles. I first noticed a noise that sounded like an alternator bearing starting to fail. Being stupid, I forgot about it (I'll address it later). As the serpentine belt drives both the power steering and the power brakes, a bearing froze up in the dead of night, ripped the belt to pieces, and I slipped off the road. Purchased belt and initial pulley for significantly more money at the neighborhood budget auto parts store despite using the same bearing and belt. So, have a look at these pulleys if you hear a minor bearing noise (2 on Duramax). Here, they can be changed quickly (10 minutes apiece), at a price that is roughly one-third less, and you won't get stuck by the side of the road. All would be brand new because I bought the tensioner pulley and second bearing here.
4.3/5
Direct replacement for a proper fit every time
Manufactured to strict engineering quality standards
Replacement stops squeak, squeal or groaning noise associated with a worn Belt Tensioner Pulley
Original Equipment (OE) Number: 5L3Z8678BA, XW4Z8678CA, XW4Z8678DA, 10129569, 12555244, 12555245
Steel construction for long-lasting durability against heat, shock and corrosion
$234
I installed this idler pulley today, and it eliminated the squeak in my 3.0L V6 (Vulcan)-powered 2001 Ford Taurus wagon. This brand caught my eye because multiple reviewers noted that it had a long lifespan and that the price was reasonable.I am unable to comment on the lifespan, but I thought I'd share some advice I learned about the installation process. The extended version, complete with examples. Therefore, if you read slowly or are pressed for time, avoid reading. However, if you have the time, perhaps doing it yourself will spare you some frustration and give you the courage to do it. If you're handy, the job is not difficult. The two biggest challenges you'll probably have are figuring out how to relieve the tension on the tensioner pulley so you can slide the belt off and back on, and identifying the issue so you know you need an idler pulley.I watched a lot of videos on identifying belt squeal issues. One by ChrisFix that I discovered on YouTube was quite beneficial. Its title is "How to Fix a Squeaky Belt (Find the Source of the Squeak)."I initially thought the chirping noise I noticed while inspecting this automobile in 2014 was a belt. But after I bought the car and started investigating, I found that the issue wasn't originating from the belt area. The camshaft synchronizer was found to be the culprit. It's a rather typical issue with these Tauruses. Even though I barely put approximately 400 miles on this car a year, I assumed the cheap, non-OEM replacement had already failed when a similar sound emerged a few weeks ago.However, I knew it was there since the sound stopped when I sprayed water on the drive belt. The Good Year Gatorback belt appeared to be in good condition and according to the previous owner's documents, it had only traveled fewer than 10,000 miles. (The vehicle only has 101k miles on it.) I made the decision to take the belt off so I could inspect it and see the numerous pulleys it runs through. The tensioner or idler pulleys are most likely to blame.In order to move the tensioner pulley towards the front of the car and slip the belt off the alternator pulley, you must first figure out how to acquire enough leverage on a 15mm wrench. The distance between the crankshaft side of the engine and the wheel well is too small for you to utilize any standard-type socket and extension handle. Although a shallow socket will fit on, the handle will never fit in that space as well. There are specialist tools available, including one from HarborFreight that costs $18, however many reviews complained that this broke or bent after the first or second use. And I didn't want to spend the cash on a better one that I wouldn't use very often.I discovered a useful video by Mike Green from 1AAuto that demonstrates the removal and replacement of the idler pulley along with the belt. To assist you in installing the items he sells, he has a ton of well-made, crystal-clear videos. I feel a little guilty utilizing them to attach components that I purchased from other sources (but not bad enough not to do it). He grasps the tensioner's bolt with the closed end of a 15mm combination wrench. He then hooks in a second, bigger wrench to provide leverage. (If you're really strong, you don't need the additional leverage; but, I'm 73 and hardly a hulk.) After a few tries, I was able to make Mike's technique effective enough for me to take the belt off.I then proceeded through the process of looking at each pulley one by one. The power steering pump was by far the most sloppy. It had an almost 1/8-inch end play (in-and-out action). However, after looking this up online, I saw several entries on the Taurus Club of America that claimed this is typical. I continued to look. You found that when you spun the idler pulley, it made a grinding sound. Although not nearly as much as the power steering pump, it also had some end play. I therefore had a good feeling that the idler pulley was the issue.
4.2/5
Belt Type : Serpentine
Flat : Y
Bearing Width (mm) : 14
Material : Polymer
Bearing Inner Diameter 1 (mm) : 17
$234
Despite not being mentioned as a replacement, this works quite fine with the mechanical tensioner pulley on the BMW e46. It was produced by INA, who also produced the original pulley. Fits both the power steering/water pump/alternator mechanical tensioner and the a/c mechanical tensioner. However, this won't fit if the mechanical tensioner that came with the ps/wp/alt was modified to a hydraulic tensioner. For the hydraulic tensioner, there are alternative replacement pulley wheels available.
The size of an idler pulley only matters when it needs to be replaced. If the idler pulley is too small, it can cause the belt to slip. If the idler pulley is too large, it can cause the belt to bind.
There are many factors to consider when choosing a pulley, including the type of load being lifted, the environment in which the pulley will be used, and the required lifting capacity. Other important considerations include the size and weight of the pulley, the speed at which it needs to operate, and the amount of friction that can be tolerated.
If your idler pulley is making noise, it may need to be replaced. If the noise is a squealing sound, it may just need to be lubricated. However, if the noise is a grinding sound, it is probably time to replace the idler pulley.
If your car is making a squealing noise, it could be a sign that your tensioner pulley is going out. The tensioner pulley keeps the belt tight and prevents it from slipping. If the pulley is worn out, the belt can slip and cause the engine to run inefficiently.
An idler pulley is a small wheel that helps guide a belt or chain in a machine. The idler pulley can last a long time if it is well-maintained and not subject to excessive wear and tear.
It usually takes about 30 minutes to change an idler pulley. You will need a socket set and a ratchet to loosen and remove the old pulley. Then, you will need to align the new pulley with the bolt holes and tighten it in place.
COPYRIGHT © 2019
