Belt tensioners are not adjustable. The tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight by applying tension to the belt. The tensioner is mounted to the engine with bolts and has a pulley that the belt runs over. The belt tensioner is not adjustable and should be replaced if it is not working properly.
When it comes time to replace your serpentine belt, you may be wondering if you need to replace the tensioner as well. The answer is not necessarily. If your tensioner is in good working condition, you may be able to reuse it. However, if it is showing signs of wear or is more than a few years old, it is probably best to replace it. A new tensioner will ensure that your new belt stays in place and lasts as long as possible.
If your vehicle's engine is making a rattling noise when starting, it could be an indication that the belt tensioner needs to be replaced. Other signs that the tensioner may need to be replaced include the engine stalling or hesitating, or the vehicle's battery dying prematurely.
4.7/5
Provides full line coverage for domestic, import, and heavy duty applications
Ensures proper belt tension, alignment, and damping for superior performance
Patented vibration damping system increases tensioner, belt, and accessory component life for long lasting use
Torsional round spring design provides consistent tension and does not allow contamination for enhanced durability
$234
I am satisfied with the quality and comparatively inexpensive price of the Amazon car parts, as I am with all of my reviews of automotive components. No exceptions apply to this tensioner. A genuine AC Delco part that was of the highest quality, installed and operated flawlessly, and helped me save hundreds of dollars over having it repaired at a shop. This component is for my 221,000-mile Silverado 1500. Good engine and transmission. Since reaching 200,000 miles, I have been changing sensors and various ancillary parts as needed. truck is in like-new condition. I've never received a subpar or mismatched part from Amazon. I utilize their "My Garage" tool, which keeps track of my truck and notifies me of the components for my engine. Along with the shipping and cost reductions, I really like that. This tensioner component is real, flawless, and as quiet as new! I suggest it. As a side note, on my Silverado, the air duct (2 ring clamps) and upper radiator shroud must be removed in order to access the drive belt and these components on the front of the motor (6 plastic push-pins, and two small bolts). It makes for a pleasant Saturday morning in the garage and is simple and enjoyable.
4.7/5
Ensures proper belt tension, alignment, and damping for superior performance
Provides full line coverage for domestic, import, and heavy duty applications
Torsional round spring design provides consistent tension and does not allow contamination for enhanced durability
Patented vibration damping system increases tensioner, belt, and accessory component life for long lasting use
$234
The factory OEM part for this tensioner is. It fit my Suburban flawlessly. A 1/2-ton 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LS with 4WD and the 5.3L flex-fuel (up to E-85) engine option was the vehicle I applied for. If your VIN has a "Z" in the eighth place, such as 1GNFK16Z02J14xxxx, you can determine your car is flex-fuel. It's likely that if you're ordering this component, your engine clatters while the air conditioner is on and that the serpentine belt for the air conditioner may also break. This issue has been the subject of numerous TSBs and countless web postings. Depending on the range of RPMs, the clattering may occur at all of them. The TSB number with the most recent information is this one. #03-01-38-019A - (Sep 3, 2004) (Sep 3, 2004)Here's the gist of it. The compressor is slugged with liquid in the system. There are several potential causes for this. One is if the system was serviced and substantially too much oil was added. The least likely explanation is certainly this one. Two, if you run out of refrigerant, you run the risk of having insufficient oil scavenging from the compressor and of having the evaporator freeze over, which prevents the refrigerant from being boiled off before it returns to the compressor on the suction side. This SHOULD be prevented by the low pressure cut-out switch, but there are other things to consider. I had to replace my low-pressure switch since it was beginning to leak oil. I paid $64 for one from the neighborhood flippin' dealer. Purchase online. Spend less money. Three, slugging may result from having too much refrigerant.Use a rechargeable device instead of one of those cans with a single pressure gauge on top. Even when you follow the instructions and have the factory repair manual with the pressure-temperature charts, you can easily overcharge the system without realizing it. Why do I know that? In addition, I NOW possess a suitable set of refrigerant gauges, allowing you to keep track of both the high and low pressure.Get the gauges or ask a shop to check if the system is charged correctly. If the system is adequately charged but the clatter still occurs, the compressor is broken and needs to be replaced. Spend no more time wasting your time. Since the desiccant is likely saturated if your system has been left open for more than a few hours, you should also replace the accumulator/drier. Since my system was only open long enough to replace one tube and the compressor, I chose not to replace my accumulator/drier. It runs smoothly. It could be a good idea to replace the accumulator/drier as they are not that expensive if you're not sure how to maintain the system. At around 160,000 miles, my compressor started acting in this way.My car had a Denso compressor, which I also purchased from Amazon: Denso 471-0316 New Compressor with Clutch. My OEM compressor had a marking identifying it as a Denso compressor on the face of the compressor pulley. My tube's schrader valve was leaking, so I also purchased this from Amazon: Air Conditioner Evaporator Tube, ACDelco 15-33179
4.7/5
Gates DriveAlign(R) Automatic Belt Tensioners 38285 (ONE PER PKG) (38285)
$234
It is powerful. I got it to swap out a Dayco appliance. The device was thicker than the previous Dayco, I noted. failed to put the belt on. Need to switch back to the Dayco unit, which is thinnerUpdate!!!! I was disappointed that I was unable to put the belt on. purchased a Dayco component from a nearby auto parts shop. I experienced the same issue. Installed this component after figuring it out. The Gate component is more robust, and unlike the Dayco wheel, which is plastic.I'm relieved that I discovered what went wrong.
4.6/5
Pulley Width : 1-1/4 Inch
Helps keep drive belt at correct tension to help maintain proper function
Offering the quality, reliability, and durability of GM OE
Manufactured to GM OE specification for fit, form, and function
GM-recommended replacement part for your GM vehicle’s original factory component
$234
For my 2008 Yukon Denali with 126K miles, a direct OEM replacement. My original tensioner is the two-bolt model, in contrast to the majority of evaluations for this item. It's interesting to see that Amazon also offers the three-bolt tensioner, and numerous customers there stated they required this kind in their reviews. First, before placing an order, lift your hood and take a look around. There are BOTH variants available. Fortunately for me, a number of these "Like-New" items are offered through Amazon Warehouse Deals because enough individuals must make this error. It was plainly a return from an improper order when I picked mine up for $26 and it was "Like New"! It was really simple to install this item using a 15mm socket on a 3/8 ratchet with a short extension, and it was ideal for my car. Nothing, not even the air intake hoses, needs to be taken out. I only needed to reach below because there was space to swing the ratchet. Tip #2: When reducing the tension on the belt, push down on the ratchet handle starting at the third position to give it room to swing back once the tension has been released and the pulley has fully returned to its initial position. I've provided a picture of an identical old and new item. I've also attached a video to demonstrate the differences between my new tensioner and my old, "functioning" tensioner. Take note of how easily the old one spins. You may detect some grit in the sound when the volume is turned up. Both signs point to bearing wear. In contrast, the new one, which is also shown in the video, doesn't spin as freely. Because these are new bearings, it is a GOOD thing. Conclusion: Excellent OEM product. incredible cost Major victory over the dealer price.
4.6/5
Professional, premium aftermarket replacement
Provides the performance and dependability you expect from ACDelco
Does the job right the first time and reduces comebacks by always replacing the serpentine belt, idlers, and tensioners at the same time
Has a lineup of parts that include 78 kits covering more than 1,300 vehicle applications for both import and domestic applications
Includes a serpentine belt, idler(s), tensioner(s), and supporting hardware with detailed installation instructions
$234
This was purchased by me to fix my father's 2002 Silverado 2500 6.0. I noticed a broken compressor belt and a tension pulley that would not turn when troubleshooting a lack of cold air conditioning. This kit came with a premium belt and a tension pulley that completely matched the original. Both had labels and boxes with what seemed to be authentic GM marks.Unexpectedly well, the installation went. The primary belt tensioner, two pulleys, and five shield bolts are all 15mm in diameter. The final two tools on the list are a flat tip screwdriver for the intake pipework and a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar that fits the new pulley. It doesn't get any easier than that. The truck wasn't even raised to allow entrance. To be safe, I did apply a small amount of blue locktite to the pulley bolts. In total, it took less than $60 and 30 minutes to remedy the a/c issue that my dad had for nearly a year.If you have any concerns about the tensioner pulley's condition, I strongly advise replacing it. Mine was seventeen. and the pulley seized due to the bearing's extreme wear, breaking the belt. Simply said, doing it when you're underneath the truck makes sense. In my instance, it was simple to remove the belt and inspect it as it was already broken before opting to order a replacement.Overall, I heartily endorse this set. In reality, I have a 2002 2500HD and a 2009 Suburban 2500 that will probably go through the same procedure before abandoning me in the sweltering GA summer heat without air conditioning.
4.6/5
Motorcraft BT-50 Belt Tensioner [Automotive]
$234
During initial startup, some loud pounding noises started to occur. For my 2002 F350 7.3 PSD with 206k miles, I also purchased a new idler roller along with this tensioner. Both were brand-new Motorcraft parts and came with brand-new bolts. I used an 8mm socket to remove the positive battery terminal and coolant reservoir, a 1/2" drive rachet/drive bar to release the belt's tension, and a 13mm wrench to remove the tensioner and idler pulley. From gathering the supplies to installing and cleaning up, it took 30 minutes. For the final bolt torque, I also used a torque wrench set at about 40 ft-lbs. Watching a few YouTube videos taught me a lot.
4.4/5
Provides full line coverage for domestic, import, and heavy duty applications
Patented vibration damping system increases tensioner, belt, and accessory component life for long lasting use
Ensures proper belt tension, alignment, and damping for superior performance
Torsional round spring design provides consistent tension and does not allow contamination for enhanced durability
$234
Exactly what I required for my 1998 GMC K1500 4.3l Vortec truck. I replaced the original bolt with one that I had leftover from the tensioner configuration. It may be quickly removed using a 13mm socket. The original lasted for about 180k miles before the bearings failed and the spring stopped keeping the right amount of tension in the arm.
4.2/5
Country of manufacture: Canada
Manufacturer: GATES
Auto & Truck Maintenance
$234
For my 2007 Ford Expedition EL Limited, exact replacement (5.4L 3v v8)My truck's grating false supercharger noise has been eliminated. Despite the fact that only the bearing had failed, I decided to replace the entire assembly.Note a few things:1. The bearing may not have much lateral motion and rotate true at the tensioner's pulley end, yet it may still be severely damaged.2. When you spin the pulley by hand, it shouldn't spin indefinitely. It needs some rolling resistance to function properly (but should be smooth).3. The pulley's bearing can simply be replaced, but it must be inserted extremely tightly.4. You cannot use "WD 40" to revive the bearing.5. The pulley and bearing together cost $12–15, the bearing is $4, and the entire tensioner with pulley and bearing is $25–30.
To remove a tensioner pulley assembly, first disconnect the battery. Next, remove the drive belt and any other belts connected to the pulley. Finally, remove the bolts holding the pulley in place and carefully remove the pulley from the engine.
A car can run without a serpentine belt for a while, but eventually it will overheat and break down. The serpentine belt is responsible for keeping the engine cool by circulating coolant through the radiator. without the belt, the engine will overheat and eventually break down.
A car tensioner is a crucial component to your vehicle's engine, and it is important to know how long they last. On average, car tensioners last between 50,000 and 100,000 miles. However, this number can vary depending on the make and model of your car as well as your driving habits. If you are someone who drives a lot of miles or in stop-and-go traffic, your car tensioner may not last as long. It is important to have your car tensioner checked regularly by a mechanic to ensure it is in good working condition.
Assuming you have the right tools, it should take no more than 30 minutes to change a tensioner pulley.
The average belt tensioner installation should take no longer than an hour. This job can be done with basic hand tools, although a socket set will make the job go much faster. You'll need to remove the old belt tensioner before installing the new one.
If your car's engine is making a squealing noise, it could be an indication that the belt tensioner needs to be replaced. A belt tensioner is a pulley that keeps the engine's serpentine belt tight, and if it fails, the belt can slip or break. Replacing a belt tensioner is a relatively inexpensive repair, and should be done as soon as possible to avoid further damage to the engine.
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