Best Automotive Replacement Axle Shafts in 2022

Last update: November 19, 2022

Are axle shafts interchangeable?

No, axle shafts are not interchangeable. Each axle shaft is designed specifically for the vehicle it is intended to be used in. This means that the splines, or teeth, on the shaft will match up with the splines in the differential, and the overall length of the shaft will be the correct length for the specific vehicle.

Are left and right CV axles the same length?

No, left and right CV axles are not the same length. The left CV axle is typically longer than the right CV axle. This is because the left CV axle is responsible for transferring power from the engine to the left wheels, while the right CV axle only transfers power to the right wheels. As a result, the left CV axle must be able to reach the left wheels without being obstructed, while the right CV axle only needs to reach the right wheels.

Can I hammer CV axle?

You can hammer a CV axle, but it's not recommended. The CV axle is a crucial part of your car's suspension, and if it's not in good condition, your car will not be able to drive properly. If you do choose to hammer a CV axle, be sure to use a soft hammer so you don't damage the axle.

Can I replace a CV joint myself?

If your car has a front-wheel drive, then there's a good chance you have a CV joint on each axle. These joints allow the wheels to turn while the axle is moving up and down, and they can wear out over time. If you hear a clicking noise when you turn the steering wheel, it's probably time to replace the CV joint. You could take your car to a mechanic to have the CV joint replaced, but it's actually not a difficult job to do yourself. You'll need a few tools and an afternoon to get the job done.


Royalo Axle Shaft Seal Installer Tool 6695 for Ford 1998-2004 F-250/350/450/550 Review:


Worked perfectly. The seal was put on with no problems using a press. Some persons stated that they split or cracked when they were struck. Most likely, they haven't ever heard of a rubber dead blow hammer! And when I put the axle shafts in, I used one to Finnish drive the seal the rest of the way into the spindle. made from premium steel. And after two seal installations, it appears that it has never been used. Some people create their own tool, but I didn't want to spend more money on seals for a trial-and-error hack. But I understand what it's like to use what you have because I've been broke. Hope this is useful.



Spicer 76812-1X Front Axle Shaft Review:


My 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab front axle shaft replacement was simple. To learn how to remove the old one, there are a tonne of instructional on YouTube. Even though you might require some specialised tools, this is not a work that the ordinary DIYer will find too challenging (like the extra large socket to get the axle nut off).



4x4 Posi-Lok PSL400 Axle Disconnect Review:


Amen to this outfit. On my 1997 Ram 1500, a 4x4 with a 5 speed, I added this. I frequently tow trailers, and the 2wd low option is fantastic for backing up large trailers or in confined spaces. (Saves your clutch; at idling, you can essentially crawl.) The installation process just took a couple of hours. Use plenty of zip ties to secure your cable and keep it away from sharp edges and corners.The 4x4 can be activated in one of two ways: By either pushing the button in and drawing it out until it clicks, or by turning the knob counterclockwise.The way I do it is to put the truck in neutral and engage 4x4 by pulling the transfer case lever. Then carefully turn the steering wheel back and forth while turning the Posi-lok knob. This will align the axle shafts and cause the vehicle to lock into 4x4.I really like this kit; it's one of my favorite vehicle improvements. I've used it for six months and haven't experienced any problems. Greater speed and dependability compared to the original vacuum actuator.Additionally, this kit is the original and is produced by Posi-Lok. There is a lesser-quality knockoff from Alloy Usa on this site as well. Get the actual deal by paying the extra money.



Drive Shaft Clamping Bearing Support Mount for Porsche Cayenne & VW Touareg - THE ONLY PERMANENT FIX Review:


I was towing a race vehicle out of state when my bearing support failed. I was almost terrified to death by the loud banging, but after I knew what it was, I was able to hobble home at part throttle. In essence, this device performs precisely what it is designed to do, and it is very nicely made. However, the set of instructions, which effectively need you to watch a YouTube video in order to understand how to install this, are not that fantastic. In order to better grasp the procedure, I really watched a few videos.I should know that while a professional could complete this task in 30 minutes, a hobbyist takes much, much longer. One reason is that you have to jack up a nearly 6000-pound car in order to get underneath the truck. Before getting under it, you must ensure that it has been hoisted correctly and securely. This is a very little, but crucial, element! Watch out for the drive-up Jacks that Harbor Freight sells, and be sure to read the reviews that mention the devices' failures under stress. Use jackstands or a lift that is rated for the weight of the truck. Even though I had a lift in my garage, which made the job easier, it still required some effort to correctly load the truck onto the lift due to its size. Once I was down there, I had no trouble finding the bearing support cover, and I had no trouble removing the bolts with a cordless impact wrench. To avoid breaking the studs, prepare to spray them with an anti-rust spray beforehand and let them sit for around 30 minutes because these will probably be rusted on a truck that spends a lot of time outside. This procedure is made considerably simpler using an air tool or an impact wrench.The bearing support was dangling from my truck just as it does in the movies. I set this aside and made the decision to start by removing the bearing's rubber. I want to emphasize how important it is that you remove ALL of the rubber from the bearing and bring it down to the metal. If you don't do this, the new gadget won't snap into place correctly, and you'll struggle to get the two sides of the new bracket to fit snugly around it. Actually, I believed it was good enough at that time, but sadly, my bracket would not completely shut around the bearing. I had to take everything apart before I could resume cutting the bearing. I actually had to repeat this process three times. To do this task, you should prepare to use several razor blades because the rubber and scraping will quickly dull the blade. A razor-sharp blade facilitates and secures the task. You should attach the bracket's top part first while mounting it. Snapping it in place from the bottom and turning it slowly until it finds the proper position at the top of the bearing is the simpler method. Before you insert the screws, they need to almost fit together when you attempt to connect these. Expect not to be able to clamp it down tightly if the gap is large because you overstressed the bolts. Take your time, and if the bearing does not fit snugly, continue scraping it. When it comes to removing the old bracket, a cutting tool—whether used with a drill or separately—really is the only option. One costs about $25 and is available at Harbor Freight. Because I was too afraid to handle the numerous metal sparks, a friend with greater experience quickly and easily removed the bracket using the tool.In order to properly repack the bearings with grease, I would also advise that you adhere to all of the video's instructions. When I popped the two seals to check the bearing, it was almost dry, despite the fact that the bearing will feel extremely free before you stuff it with grease. The bearing will feel considerably tighter after you repack it, but don't be alarmed because this will break in over time. Use a very small flat-tip screwdriver or one with a somewhat long blade to remove the seals on the bearing. To pop the seals, run the screwdriver along the inside or outside edge and twist. Make sure you remove both of the seals since there are two of them. Black is the second and red is the first. They are stacked upon one another.Make sure to wait until all of the bolts have been threaded in a little before putting any of them again. Once they are seated, use your impact gun to tighten them down. I had to clean one of my bolts because it was a little more corroded for it to sit properly.The bracket must be closed with a 5 mm long hex wrench or key, among other things. The same hex key is used for each bolt on that bracket. If the manufacturer included this with the package, it would be beneficial.The stages in this kit may not appear to be particularly challenging in the video, but even a novice hobby mechanic can become confused by any of them. Give yourself plenty of time, practice patience, and if at all possible, be prepared with an experienced companion. I might advise against taking on this project yourself if any of the seams bother you. Ask a seasoned mechanic for assistance.Update: Several thousand miles later, including a protracted tow from New Jersey to Watkins Glen, the part appears to be performing its job effectively.



Complete Front Passenger Side CV Axle Shaft NOT FOR SUPERCHARGED MODELS or"SS" Review:


automobile-related items! I'm a girl who doesn't know much about cars; all I know is that I needed this part, ordered it, had it installed, and now my car runs! Yay!! automobile-related items! The mechanic indicated there were no fitment difficulties, so. Good product that fulfilled the requirement.



4x4 Posi-Lok PSL900 Axle Disconnect for Jeep Review:


There is no tampering going on with this. I initially believed the cord in the box to be a garden hose due to its size. IT IS STONE. Simple to install; I installed mine in the dash to avoid using the one-screw bracket that other people had complained about. Its ability to twist open and shut is something I like. As you engage and disengage, you might add a little tension to the situation. Overall, I have no serious problems. I wish I had a dash camera. I'll add a photo if I can later update the post. You will notice a night and day difference if, like me, you previously used a cheap cable. I've only used it for one hard core wheeling day so far; I'll provide updates as necessary.



Yukon Gear & Axle (YT SA-01) Inner Axle Side Seal Installation Tool Review:


I figured I'd share my experiences with this tool because there aren't any reviews yet. With the use of this tool, I was able to complete what appeared to be a two-person job on my High Pinion Dana 30 axle by myself. When I first got the tool, I realized that neither side fit inside the axle seal's "lip," even if they did fit on the tip of the "lip." I tried utilizing it after disassembling my housing since I assumed it would work. I didn't discover the seal had been damaged until after I had disassembled and reassembled my axle because the tool kept slipping to one side of the seal since it couldn't center itself. This was quite disappointing considering the time it took to install these seals and the $100 tool. I initially believed it could only be the Timken seals, so before I tried installing new seals a second time, I took the tool to my neighborhood auto parts stores and tried fitting National seals, which also didn't fit. While I was there, I discovered a 1 3/8" socket with a 1/4 drive that suited reasonably well and that I could put on the tool's base. I do wonder whether the tool would have performed better if I had a Dana 44 or 60. I apologize for the lengthy review.***UPDATE***After hurrying to finish a ball joint replacement and jeopardizing one of the existing seals, I had to redo my axle seals yesterday. The tool performed flawlessly when I used Spicer axle seals. Since the Spicer seals work well with this instrument, I now believe that it truly matters which seals you purchase (Timken and National not so much).


How long do axles last?

While there is no definitive answer to how long an axle will last, there are a number of factors that can affect its lifespan. These include the type of vehicle, how often it is driven, and the conditions it is driven in. Generally speaking, however, most axles will last for several years before needing to be replaced.

How long does it take to change axles?

It can take anywhere from a few hours to a full day to change an axle, depending on the make and model of the vehicle and the experience of the mechanic. Many mechanics will charge by the hour, so it is important to ask for an estimate before work begins. The average cost of a new axle can range from $200 to $600, so it is important to get a few quotes before making a decision.

How many miles should a CV axle last?

A CV axle is a vital component of a car's suspension, and as such, its lifespan will be dictated by how well the suspension is maintained. In general, a CV axle should last between 70,000 and 80,000 miles. However, if the suspension is not well-maintained, the CV axle may only last for 30,000 miles.

How much do car axles cost?

Car axles typically cost between $100 and $200, although some may cost more or less depending on the make and model of the car. Many factors can affect the cost of an axle, including the type of car, the year it was made, and the condition of the axle.

How much does a CV shaft cost?

A CV shaft typically costs between $100 and $200. The cost will vary depending on the make and model of the vehicle.

How much does it cost to replace axle shafts?

Assuming you would like an estimate for replacing axle shafts on a passenger vehicle: The average cost for replacing an axle shaft is between $350-$1200. The cost will depend on the make and model of your vehicle, as well as the type of axle shaft needed.