Best Automotive Replacement Air Conditioning Compressors in 2022

Last update: January 1, 2023

Are aftermarket AC compressors any good?

Aftermarket AC compressors are not as good as OEM compressors. Aftermarket compressors are not built to the same specifications and tolerances as OEM compressors. They may not fit as well, and they may not work as well.

Are old air compressors better than new ones?

There is no definitive answer to this question as it depends on a number of factors. However, many people believe that old air compressors are better than new ones because they are more durable and require less maintenance. Additionally, old air compressors often have a higher resale value than new ones.

Can I drive with a broken AC compressor?

If your car's air conditioning (A/C) compressor is broken, you may still be able to drive your car. However, it will be much more difficult and uncomfortable to do so. The A/C compressor is responsible for cooling the air in your car. Without it, the air will be much hotter and more humid. This can make driving very uncomfortable, especially in hot weather. If possible, you should avoid driving your car with a broken A/C compressor.

Can I replace just my AC compressor?

If your AC compressor is failing, you may be wondering if you can replace it without replacing the entire AC unit. The answer is maybe. If the compressor is the only thing that is failing, then you may be able to replace it. However, if other parts of the AC unit are also failing, then it may be more cost effective to replace the entire unit.


ACDelco 19210691 GM Original Equipment Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Kit with Tool Review:


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Dorman 949-000 Air Suspension Compressor for Select Cadillac/Chevrolet/GMC Models Review:


This review may sound drawn out, but I want to go into some detail about how I updated the rear suspension components on my 2007 Avalanche and provide some advice I picked up along the way that I couldn't find in other reviews to help others in my situation in the future.My 2007 Avalanche LTZ Air Ride rear shocks, which had about 140,000 miles on them, had recently been replaced with Arnott Industries AS-2708 remanufactured shocks (from OE cores). I had anticipated that they would easily connect into the pre-existing compressor and wiring, which they did. The day after changing the shocks, I discovered that the right-side shock had an exposed piston between its air bladder and higher mount. I contacted Arnott because I suspected the remanufactured shock might be defective, and he advised that my compressor might not be powerful enough to maintain the shocks at their recommended pressures and levels. Because the air line from the compressor at the shock's light back mounting site is only 6 inches long as opposed to several feet to the right side, the left wasn't acting in the same way. Arnott suggested that I check the pressure in my compressor and noted that it should be 135 psi. No local stores or dealers had a means to do it without creating an adaptor for a pressure gauge, according to a search of the community. My truck's original compressor and shocks appeared to be in good working order, but the compressor was quite noisy and would start up for 20 seconds every time the truck was started, put in park, or even just idling in gear at a stoplight. Although the original shocks could maintain the truck's level and did not generate any Stabilitrak error codes, loading the bed with firewood in November demonstrated that they were ineffective under load because the rear of the truck dramatically sagged and the compressor ran the entire way home, necessitating the purchase of new shocks. I had two options: try changing the compressor or remove the new shock, temporarily reinstall the original shock, and wait to ship the new shock back and obtain a replacement and go through the process again, with the risk that it was the compressor after all.I decided to test the compressor substitute first. Among my options, the Dorman 949-001 appeared to be a more simpler repair or replacement than the compressor Arnott provides, since they just supply you with the compressor itself; you must utilize the used compressor off of your truck for parts like the mounting tray, air lines, bolts, nuts, etc. In my driveway, I was able to complete this task without jacking the truck. Under the gas filler cap and directly below the left rear wheel of the truck, the compressor is mounted to the frame of the vehicle. The task took roughly 45 minutes. To unclip the power/electronics plug, you'll need a 13 mm socket, an extension, a flathead screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers.1. Disconnect the air intake for the compressor (I just cut mine, there is a plastic bracket that the small air box at the end of the intake hose mounts to up under the fuel filler that I couldn't get at well, and had my regular mechanic install the new one, took 2 minutes up on the lift, could have done it myself) and the air lines out (the left shock can be disconnected at the shock, the right shock line at the compressor, Dorman includes a new left shock line in the kit).2. Unplug the power/electronics clip, taking care not to ding the plugs or clips in the process.3. Three bolts that slip into slots drilled in the frame and are then tightened in place hold the device to the frame. the 13 mm socket Apply an extension. The third nut is actually on the inside of the frame rail, reachable through a hole on the inside of the rail (next to the spare tire, need an extension for your socket, but not more than a few inches long, there isn't much room to work with unless you drop the spare). Two of the nuts are exposed with plenty of room to work. The compressor should come loose and slide up and towards the back of the truck out of those slots if all three nuts are removed. At this time, the unit ought to be free.4. Remove the bolt's nut from the replacement unit by loosening the surrounding nuts. Drop the compressor into the frame's slots. the two back nuts to a snug fit. Be careful not to lose the new nut inside the frame rail as you load your socket with the through-the-frame bolt's replacement nut. Constrict all three.5. Secure the electrical or electronic plug.Sixth, join the air lines.7. Attach the air intake hose and air box assembly to the fuel tank's neck bracket.8. After the truck has started, look for any trouble messages on the dash. (I didn't have any before my replacement; if you have, and they're still there after the repair, you might need to drive around a bit to let it clear itself, or you might not have clipped the power/electrical plug in properly.)Overall, the new compressor from Dorman is far quieter than the factory unit, it runs much less frequently than it always did (and for much shorter periods of time when it does), and most significantly, it fixed my low pressure in the right side shock problem. Since then, my Avalanche has driven substantially better.



Dorman 949-001 Air Suspension Compressor for Select Cadillac/Chevrolet/GMC Models Review:


Perfect fit on my base-model 2003 Cadillac Escalade. After five years of driving around without it working, my car now rides like a champ. Let it be known that I also replaced the factory-installed air shocks with remanufactured Arnott brand shocks, which are also available on Amazon for around $450. You can't go wrong, I promise. It only took me three hours to repair the shocks and air compressor because I had to get the complete housing for the air compressor, which cost just $20 more. I had originally ordered a part for the air compressor, but the housing and screws were rusted, so I had to order the entire housing. To make the job much simpler, I wish someone had informed me about this component when I placed the order. Please get a new air hose from Amazon, which is about $25, as the old one might be corroded to the old shocks like mine was. And believe me, with the help of YouTube in particular, if you know how to change the oil or a tire on your car, you can change the shocks as well:)



Dorman 949-099 Air Suspension Compressor for Select Cadillac / Chevrolet / GMC Models Review:


This review may sound drawn out, but I want to go into some detail about how I updated the rear suspension components on my 2007 Avalanche and provide some advice I picked up along the way that I couldn't find in other reviews to help others in my situation in the future.My 2007 Avalanche LTZ Air Ride rear shocks, which had about 140,000 miles on them, had recently been replaced with Arnott Industries AS-2708 remanufactured shocks (from OE cores). I had anticipated that they would easily connect into the pre-existing compressor and wiring, which they did. The day after changing the shocks, I discovered that the right-side shock had an exposed piston between its air bladder and higher mount. I contacted Arnott because I suspected the remanufactured shock might be defective, and he advised that my compressor might not be powerful enough to maintain the shocks at their recommended pressures and levels. Because the air line from the compressor at the shock's light back mounting site is only 6 inches long as opposed to several feet to the right side, the left wasn't acting in the same way. Arnott suggested that I check the pressure in my compressor and noted that it should be 135 psi. No local stores or dealers had a means to do it without creating an adaptor for a pressure gauge, according to a search of the community. My truck's original compressor and shocks appeared to be in good working order, but the compressor was quite noisy and would start up for 20 seconds every time the truck was started, put in park, or even just idling in gear at a stoplight. Although the original shocks could maintain the truck's level and did not generate any Stabilitrak error codes, loading the bed with firewood in November demonstrated that they were ineffective under load because the rear of the truck dramatically sagged and the compressor ran the entire way home, necessitating the purchase of new shocks. I had two options: try changing the compressor or remove the new shock, temporarily reinstall the original shock, and wait to ship the new shock back and obtain a replacement and go through the process again, with the risk that it was the compressor after all.I decided to test the compressor substitute first. Among my options, the Dorman 949-001 appeared to be a more simpler repair or replacement than the compressor Arnott provides, since they just supply you with the compressor itself; you must utilize the used compressor off of your truck for parts like the mounting tray, air lines, bolts, nuts, etc. In my driveway, I was able to complete this task without jacking the truck. Under the gas filler cap and directly below the left rear wheel of the truck, the compressor is mounted to the frame of the vehicle. The task took roughly 45 minutes. To unclip the power/electronics plug, you'll need a 13 mm socket, an extension, a flathead screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers.1. Disconnect the air intake for the compressor (I just cut mine, there is a plastic bracket that the small air box at the end of the intake hose mounts to up under the fuel filler that I couldn't get at well, and had my regular mechanic install the new one, took 2 minutes up on the lift, could have done it myself) and the air lines out (the left shock can be disconnected at the shock, the right shock line at the compressor, Dorman includes a new left shock line in the kit).2. Unplug the power/electronics clip, taking care not to ding the plugs or clips in the process.3. Three bolts that slip into slots drilled in the frame and are then tightened in place hold the device to the frame. the 13 mm socket Apply an extension. The third nut is actually on the inside of the frame rail, reachable through a hole on the inside of the rail (next to the spare tire, need an extension for your socket, but not more than a few inches long, there isn't much room to work with unless you drop the spare). Two of the nuts are exposed with plenty of room to work. The compressor should come loose and slide up and towards the back of the truck out of those slots if all three nuts are removed. At this time, the unit ought to be free.4. Remove the bolt's nut from the replacement unit by loosening the surrounding nuts. Drop the compressor into the frame's slots. the two back nuts to a snug fit. Be careful not to lose the new nut inside the frame rail as you load your socket with the through-the-frame bolt's replacement nut. Constrict all three.5. Secure the electrical or electronic plug.Sixth, join the air lines.7. Attach the air intake hose and air box assembly to the fuel tank's neck bracket.8. After the truck has started, look for any trouble messages on the dash. (I didn't have any before my replacement; if you have, and they're still there after the repair, you might need to drive around a bit to let it clear itself, or you might not have clipped the power/electrical plug in properly.)Overall, the new compressor from Dorman is far quieter than the factory unit, it runs much less frequently than it always did (and for much shorter periods of time when it does), and most significantly, it fixed my low pressure in the right side shock problem. Since then, my Avalanche has driven substantially better.



Denso 471-1630 New Compressor with Clutch Review:


Perfectly suited my 2005 Honda Pilot. Just a little advice: the compressor may be removed easily if the two bolts on the lower cross member are removed. I purchased an inexpensive vacuum pump from Amazon.com. After an hour of system evacuation, the refrigerant was restored, and everything was in order. Due to how difficult it would have been to remove both the condenser and the new dryer, I chose not to use it. I hoped it didn't send any scrap metal into the system because it wasn't locked up. You can get a dryer or an expansion valve for free if you simply pay actual shipping if anyone needs one. Just message me. Verify that the oil from the new compressor that is in the old one has been removed.



Dorman 949-202 Air Suspension Compressor for Select Ford/Lincoln Models Review:


Compared to a dealer fix, this product saved over $500. My rear suspension was as good as new within 20 minutes of bolting in the new motor (3 bolts and 1 air line in). I had already taken the old motor out to investigate the problem. The motor is identical to the compressor I removed from a 2013 Lincoln Navigator; I believe the OEM motors are produced, and this one is identical to the OEM in terms of weight, frame, and quality. Even when it was brand-new, the compressor could be heard starting up on the new motor, while this one is much quieter.Prior to motor installation, check for air leaks in hoses or airbags (relay as well). Remove the passenger headlight, unbolt the passenger wheel well liner, and then unscrew the three bolts securing the motor to the bracket. Remove those; the air line was difficult for me to remove since I had to push in on the orange seal and out on the air line before removing the breather tube. I tried hard connecting my old motor to a 12V source to test it, but nothing happened. Other than the inability to drive your automobile, shipment takes two days and costs $179 as opposed to $75X for a dealer replacement.



UAC CO 29002C A/C Compressor Review:


When the compressor stopped cycling in my 2006 Hummer H2, I used this as a replacement. The compressor appears to be of excellent quality and bolted on without any problems. The fact that this compressor already had oil inside it saved me the hassle of having to do it myself and allowed for a straightforward installation right out of the box. After being installed and having my system recharged, my a/c operated as if nothing had ever been wrong.


How do you know if car AC compressor is bad?

If your car's air conditioner isn't blowing cold air, the first thing you should check is the compressor. The compressor is the heart of the air conditioning system, and if it's not working, the whole system won't work. There are a few ways to tell if your car's compressor is bad.

How good are remanufactured AC compressors?

If you're looking for a replacement AC compressor, you may be wondering if a remanufactured unit is a good option. There are pros and cons to consider. On the plus side, remanufactured compressors are often less expensive than new units. They're also easier to find since they're more widely available. On the downside, remanufactured compressors may not last as long as new units. And, if something goes wrong with a remanufactured compressor, it can be harder to find replacement parts since they're not as widely available. So

How long does an AC compressor last?

An AC compressor typically lasts about 15-20 years. However, this varies depending on the make and model of the compressor, as well as the frequency of use and maintenance.

How long does it take a mechanic to replace an AC compressor?

Compressor replacement can take anywhere from two to four hours. The mechanic will first have to diagnose the problem and then replace the compressor. The entire process can take up to a full day.

How long does it take to install an air compressor in a car?

Installing an air compressor in a car can take anywhere from 1-2 hours to a full day, depending on the make and model of the car and the compressor. The most important thing to do before starting the installation is to read the instructions that come with the compressor.

How long should an AC compressor last in a car?

An AC compressor should last anywhere from 60,000 to 100,000 miles, provided it is properly maintained. Compressors are the heart of the air conditioning system, pumping refrigerant to cool the air in your car. If your compressor fails, it can be a costly repair. That’s why it’s important to keep an eye on your AC system and have it serviced regularly.