If you're looking for a better performing fuel pump, then aftermarket options are definitely worth considering. These pumps can deliver increased flow and pressure, which can be beneficial for modified engines. However, it's important to make sure that the pump you choose is compatible with your vehicle. Otherwise, you could end up doing more harm than good.
Electric fuel pumps are more efficient than mechanical fuel pumps because they don't have any moving parts. This means that they can't break down or wear out as easily as mechanical fuel pumps. Electric fuel pumps are also less likely to leak because they don't have any seals that can fail.
No, you can't have too big of a fuel pump. Theoretically, the bigger the fuel pump, the more fuel it can deliver to the engine. This can lead to more power, but it all depends on the rest of the fuel system being up to the task of delivering the extra fuel.
Using an electric fuel pump with a carburetor is possible, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, the electric pump will need to be mounted below the carburetor, as gravity will be needed to help draw the fuel up into the carb. Second, you'll need to make sure that the pump is rated for the correct fuel pressure and volume that your carburetor requires. Finally, it's a good idea to install a fuel pressure regulator to help keep the fuel pressure constant, as fluctuating pressure can cause issues with carburetors.
4.7/5
ORB-10 inlet and outlet ports, fully submersible for custom, in-tank placement
For EFI applications use regulator P/N 13101 or P/N 13109
Carbureted Engines: up to 1500 HP - naturally aspirated; up to 1200 HP - forced air induction
This product is not compatible for use with diesel fuel
Fuel Injected Engines: up to 1300 HP - naturally aspirated; up to 1000 HP - forced air induction
$234
excellent fitpumps hard.happy customerAnother fantastic Amazon bargain.cheaper than the large whse stores.There are no service or handling fees.eligible for free shipping.My top internet retailer for racing supplies is Amazon.Although it can often be hit or miss, there are actual savings.
4.2/5
Comes in black color
Made from anodized aluminum for extreme durability
Inlet and outlet measures 3/8
Include mounting brackets
Inlet and outlet attaches to existing female threads
$234
This Edelbrock fuel pump replaced a Holley Blue electric pump that was horribly noisy and soon started leaking straight out of the box. With fuel lines and 3/8 NPT to -6an fittings, installation went without a hitch. There were no leaks, and the 2-wire hookup couldn't be any easier. However, I first wanted to test it out. Fuel flow at 6.5 PSI was excellent to my 670 Hollet Street Avenger on a tiny 350SBC with 10:1 compression and a CompCams Magnum 280 with.480lift. I'm tying it into an oil safety switch shortly. I just don't see the space, but I'll size it up again when I have access to a lift. These gasoline pumps are actually intended to deliver fuel to the engine up front with a filter ideally before it. This pump wasn't inexpensive, but if it lasts I guess I'll be happy—it should because the car is only driven sometimes and in pleasant weather. I'd rate it as being 5/10 (loudest) in terms of volume, with the Holley Blue scoring a 9/10. The Edelbock unit's noise level is tolerable, and the rubber isolator was almost two times as thick as the Holley one. I'll try to provide updates on longevity every six months and adjust my rating as necessary. Because it was expensive and hasn't yet been tested for lifespan, and because there isn't a lot of pertinent information available regarding this pump, I am now giving it a rating of 4 out of 5 stars. I guess time will tell!
4.1/5
Durable cast iron pump housing built to withstand the wear and tear of rough operating environments
Thermal overload protection prevents motor from overheating during abnormal usage
1/4 hp DC motor @ 2,600 RPM provides up to 37' of discharge head
20 amp draw (maximum) with a 30 minute duty cycle.Cast bronze rotor with bronze rotary vanes
Capable of providing a suction lift of up to 6.5' (diesel)
$234
I bought this to replace a less expensive one that I should not have wasted my time on. My bad. After some initial issues with my unusual setup, this one works well. Tuthill's [Davco Corp.] lackluster support was disheartening. I specifically questioned the owners manual's inadequate description of downtube parameters. They emailed me a page from the same manual that contained the diagram. I don't believe it is unreasonable to want them to clarify a murky engineering requirement in their manual for $350 and a second downtube purchase.
4/5
Provides a more consistent and higher flow rate with no pulsation
Flows 97 GPH and 71 GPH at 4 PSI
Can be serviced from either pump end or brush cap end
Not for use with fuel injection systems or alcohol and methanol fuels
Includes mounting brackets and lower housing casting with red logo
$234
This was applied to a friend's outdated 180 SL Mercedes. Unfortunately, mounting it down by the tank would require extreme changes or a lot of fabrication work. The previous pump, which was positioned on the fender and lasted around 10 years, belonged to him. It was a pusher pump, not a puller pump, so when I replaced it, I had to move it a little lower into the engine compartment. Working well thus far. The pump even has an excellent gasoline filter installed before it, so it must have a considerable amount of suction. Will undoubtedly use JEGs once more. They gave you a whole sheet of stickers and the package arrived earlier than expected. I'll most certainly use them again.
4/5
Fits electric pumps
Reads fuel and oil pressure
Limited Warranty
Shuts off at or below 5 PSI
$234
My 7.3 Powerstroke underwent an E-fuel conversion, and this was utilised to turn the pump on and off (using a relay, of course). It has now been operating flawlessly for six months. is a straight replacement for a plug found on this engine's oil cooler. Simply thread it in, and as soon as you start the engine, it detects the oil press and turns on the pump. It then turns off the pump when the engine is turned off. I also have a manual toggle switch wired to the relay for priming, but I rarely use it because I usually just run the tank dry or work on the fuel lines.
4/5
Features a tumbled polished billet look for a classic look under extreme conditions
Lower housing casting for enhanced fuel flow
Features the "Blue" logo for a little extra class
Externally accessible pressure relief valve for easy use
Comes with mounting bracket for easy installation
$234
replaced a worn-out, outdated Holley pump that had been put in place in the late 1990s with a Holley BLUE pump. This model is a real performer; as soon as it was connected to 12V electricity, it started right up and delivered strong fuel pressure. installed in a 1984 Buick Regal that the Rochester Quadrajet converted to a 455 horsepower engine. The fuel is pushed up to the carburetor by a pump that is placed underneath the trunk, right in front of the fuel tank. Between the tank and pump as well as between the pump and carb, inline facing filters are placed. Amazing performance and low noise levels are comparable to other high performance pumps. To get the proper pressure to your carb, you MUST use a pressure regulator. A strongly advise
3.7/5
255 LPH
Fuel Pump Only.
$234
After purchasing this item, a pump with the T1 Automotive stamp was delivered. Despite the fact that the pump felt quite sturdy and well-built, I was understandably angry and thought the wrong pump had been shipped to me. Based on my investigation, Walbro's parent business, T1 Automotive, is separating itself from the brand to essentially ensure brand identification and uniformity across their global product inventory. It is, in essence, the same same pump built in the USA. I discovered that when I ordered the identical kit I had the first time and received a T1 pump instead of a Walbro like I had the first time.FYI: Your fuel pump controller may be to blame if your WRX's pump burns out after a month or two, as it was in my case.
3.3/5
Good Up To 300 Horsepower
Quiet Operation; 12 Volt; 4-7 psi; 32 gph; Compatible with all Fuels; For Carbureted Applications
Simple 2 Wire Hookup
Self Priming And Regulating
Reliable Solid State Design
$234
Engine off; until the line is pressurized, the pump is loud. While the engine is running, you won't hear it. On a D150 pickup, I'm using it as a backup for my mechanical pump. If necessary, it could power the (carbureted) engine by itself. My mechanical pump didn't seem to have any trouble extracting fuel in spite of the loss of power to this electric pump. As recommended in the installation manual, I advise you to add a "engine off" solution. You can smell the fuel that the pump is releasing to regulate itself if the pump is still running after the engine has been turned off.
A electric fuel pump does not need a fuel pressure regulator. The pump itself is regulated by the controller to maintain a set fuel pressure.
A return line is not strictly necessary for an electric fuel pump, but it is generally recommended. The return line helps to prevent fuel from being forced back into the pump, which can damage it. It also helps to keep the fuel system pressurized, which is necessary for the pump to work properly.
Increasing fuel pressure can increase power, but it can also cause engine damage if not done properly. It is important to consult a professional before increasing fuel pressure.
To figure out how big of an electric fuel pump you need, you'll first need to know the flow rate of your engine. The flow rate is how much fuel the engine can consume in a certain amount of time. To find the flow rate, you'll need to know the displacement of your engine and the maximum rpm. Once you have those numbers, you can use this formula: flow rate = (displacement x maximum rpm) / 2. Once you have the flow rate, you can choose an electric fuel pump that can provide that flow rate at the pressure you need
There are a few factors you need to consider when determining the size fuel pump you need. The first is the amount of horsepower your engine is rated for. The second is the maximum RPM your engine is capable of. The third is the size of your fuel tank. And the fourth is the duty cycle of the pump.
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