Best Automotive Performance Distributors in 2022

Last update: January 1, 2023

MSD 8479 Pro-Billet Street Distributor Review:


This distributor is excellent for a number of reasons:1) The quality is really great.2) It has a great appearance.3. It comes with everything you need to re-curve it yourself and is incredibly simple to do so.4) A vacuum advance is present. ESSENTIAL on a street-driven vehicle.The manual includes a series of graphs that show every possible arrangement of springs and bushings, making it simple for you to re-curve this distributor without a distributor machine. The distributor includes each spring and bushing that is required. The different colors bushings set a maximum advance limit while the different colored springs alter how rapidly the advance comes in. The blue bushing, which restricts total mechanical advance to 21 crankshaft degrees, and the two stiffest springs (silver heavy) are already mounted in the distributor when it is shipped.If you don't intend to lock out the mechanical advance, you should probably change the advance springs before installing it in your hot rod (you would only lock-out the mechanical advance if you are also going to use a programmable ignition box). Because MSD distributes these distributors from the factory with the stiffest springs (heavy silver), you must replace them. This is because MSD is operating in full CYA mode. Full advance does not happen until 4,000 rpm with this configuration. For the majority of applications, this is too high. The majority of tuners advise having complete mechanical advance to be in between 2500 and 3000 rpm.You can see from the accompanying graphs that you would need to add one silver (light) and one blue (light) spring in order to get full advance at 2500 rpm. Install two silver (light) springs if you want the whole advance to occur at 3000 rpm. The blue 21-degree bushing is assumed to be used in these examples. Bear in mind that the amount of total mechanical progress is restricted by the bushings. The graphs provide a good illustration of all of this. Simple!There is a vacuum advance on this distributor. No matter how "radical" the engine is, EVERY street car MUST have a vacuum advance! Unless you enjoy wasting gasoline, that is. Performance is not harmed by vacuum advance units. At wide open throttle, they are entirely and utterly inert. However, they increase the ignition timing past where the mechanical advance terminates to add many more miles per gallon during part-throttle cruising. They not only significantly increase fuel efficiency but also significantly enhance idle and part-throttle driveability, especially on vehicles with large cams. How? You can close the throttle blades back down to the point where the carburetor transfer slots are (largely) covered thanks to the additional timing advance at idle provided by the vacuum advance.The issue with huge cams is that you have to turn up the idle speed screws to get the car to idle. The relationship between the throttle butterflies, idle ports, and transfer slots is messed up by doing this. You end up exposing far too many of the transfer slots as a result. In order to compensate for the fact that no additional gasoline can come out of the transfer slots, you must press the throttle in order to cause the accelerator pump to squirt a lot of gas into the engine when you need to accelerate slightly from idle, such as from a stoplight in traffic. You may decide to employ the hot-rodder trick of drilling holes in the carburetor butterflies so you can turn the idle speed screws back down, or you may install larger accelerator discharge nozzles (which will reduce gas mileage). In any case, you BELIEVE that your carburetor is malfunctioning. It's possible that at low RPMs, your ignition advance is simply insufficient.To overadvance the timing at high RPMs and damage the engine, you can't just increase the starting advance (by turning the distributer). The vacuum advance enters the picture at this point. You get the best of both worlds by connecting it to manifold vacuum (NOT PORTED VACUUM! ): lots of advance at idle, but not too much at full throttle. The ability to drive at part throttle will be much improved by backing off the idle speed screws.While I'm about it, I suppose I should offer my recommendations on how to adjust a hot-timing. rod's A timing light with a dial for advance/retard is required. In a sense, the majority of timing-setting advice is incorrect. It is NOT necessary to set the initial advance first. Start by deciding on the maximum advance (with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged). This is the ONLY time parameter on a non-emission controlled hot rod that matters. It is more important than anything else, at least. According to popular thinking, you should first establish your initial advance before switching out your bushings to acquire your entire advance. Therefore, you must first choose what the entire advance amount will be. Although it seems complicated, it really isn't. Select a digit.



PerTronix D130700 Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Vacuum Advance Black Cap Billet Electronic Distributor with Ignitor II Technology for Ford Small Block Review:


On my 1971 Convertible Mustang with a 302 V8, this gorgeous polished billet aluminium distributor instals easily. This particular distributor was suggested by multiple mechanics, including the one who is currently rebuilding my motor, and the entire vehicle is being rebuilt, including the motor. I absolutely adore using Amazon whenever it is feasible. I have always had good service, even when I received a broken item, and the return process was simple. Amazon will have my business as long as you offer reasonable rates and top-notch customer service.



PerTronix 1247 Ignitor for Ford 4 Cylinder Review:


Pertronix is not to blame for the one star! Although the architecture of this distributor is straightforward, servicing it is a nightmare. The supplied brochure and the YouTube videos provide clear instructions for installing the module. Similar Pertronix upgrades that I've used in other Fords without a problem.



Pertronix D177600 Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Vacuum Advance Cast Electronic Distributor with Ignitor Technology Review:


It was quite simple to install this Pertronix distributor into my 1960 Jaguar 3.8 Mark IX. This is about as simple as it gets if you can replace out a distributor on an automobile engine. This distributor performs as well as it possibly can and the fit is great.The phrase "Plug and Play" is rarely to be taken literally, but in the case of this device, it is. The only catch is that you need to know how to time the engine after replacing the distributor, and switching the plug wires to the traditional style distributor cap could be a little challenging. Additionally, ensure sure the two low tension coil wires are attached to the coil in the correct polarity order.I used this drop-in-whole-distributor method since I had trouble with the Pertronix Ignitor conversion for the original DMBZ6A (wire through the bottom) distributor.I have worked on cars for 55 years and have never witnessed a distributor emit a spark that was longer than 3/4 inch when tested under a coil. Together with the Pertonix Flamethrower coil, this device fired a snappy, blue spark that was more than an inch long.I've driven the Jag and this new distributor for around 10 hours now with no troubles.



Pertronix D186504 Flame-Thrower VW Type 1 Engine Plug and Play Vacuum Advance Cast Electronic Distributor with Ignitor Technology Review:


In my 1974 VW Thing, I installed this along with a Bosch blue coil. She started up for the first time in more than 30 years five minutes later! The only thing that the instructions lacked was information on where to connect the dizzy's vacuum port. The port needs to be attached to the vacuum port on the carb that is just above or below the carb throats, pointing toward the dizzy.Additionally, I discovered that there is a rubber buffer underneath the rotor cap. In my instance, the buffer was not level and was standing up sideways; whomever put it together pressed the rotor on and slightly damaged the rotor's notch, but not enough to warrant a replacement. It was simple to lay the buffer flat and reattach the rotor.Others advise using an old o-ring, but I didn't need it because the shaft inserted without issue after I greased the o-ring.It is extremely wonderful that it includes the proper electrical connectors because you rarely find these with other products. The wiring can also be shortened to the required length and crimped on because it extends to a length of around 12". To shield the wires, I included a protective jacket and some shrink tubing.Replace every VW dizzy with points with a similar electronic unit. What a sight it was to witness a forgotten engine return to life and run so smoothly after 30 years!



PerTronix D134600 Black Cast Distributor for Small Block Ford Review:


works well, but be sure to follow the instructions; the red wire must be connected to 12V rather than the coil's as in earlier generations.



MSD 8362 Street Fire HEI Distributor Review:


With a Blueprint 383, I dropped this into my 1990 Chevy Suburban. It really shines when combined with an MSD street fire ignition module. For some reason, MSD is really worried about the cam gear, but other than that, it's just drop it in, set your timing, and stomp it.