Best Automotive Anti-Seize Lubricants in 2020



Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube Review:


I used it on the threads of new spark plugs which is a debatable issue. I removed the old plugs of unknown age on my 2010 F150 5.4 litre 3-valve motor, the old plug threads had a fair amount of rust on them and were difficult to remove. I installed a new plug without the anti-seize and the plug fought me the entire way, binding with the existing threads of the head. So, I removed the new plug and added a touch of anti-seize to the threads of all the new plugs, and the install went smoothly. I was able to pretty much finger tighten all the plugs until they were firmly seated, before using the torque wrench and setting them to 15 ft-lbs. Since the SP509 plugs are rated for 100,000 miles or so, the plugs will probably be untouched for a long time, allowing untreated plugs to rust and or carbon up some of the threads over that prolonged period.



Corrosion-X 90102 Anti-Corrosion and Lubricant, 16-Ounce, Aerosol Review:


Just finished using my first can..After 45 years of working with corroded electrical marine equipment I have found a true cleaner-protectant. Spray it on terminals and see before your eyes it working (google this stuff-molecular interaction). Oxidation gone and protected. It is so good you will start conserving by spraying less and less. I researched long and hard before finding this product. I had always used what was commonly available at the local vendors. It is easy to find quality sprays that coat and seal metals, and some that penetrate . This stuff is way different, it has been developed to work on the molecular level (outer shell electron stuff like you learned in chemistry). When you use this you can see the results; not hope for the best and make another season. Spray it on outboards to resolve corrosion issues and protect for many seasons. Wipe aluminum pontoons and rub rails to prevent pitting and white oxidation. Terminal strips shine and are coated, sealed from the elements. Watch green copper/brass return back to original color. All this while also lubricating linkages, cables and slides. Again google this stuff for yourself (the military uses it, it prevents corrosion so well the aircraft industry fogs inside wings to prevent corrosion). You may hesitate at the price but this isn't WD-40. This is science in a can. Good stuff. I used the last drop out of the can on the end of my finger and smeared it on the corroded threads of a side post battery yesterday and was still amazed to see it wick itself from my finger through the threads and remove "lead oxide" to penetrate and seal. Retired engineer/life long mechanic.



Permatex 77134 Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant, 0.5 oz Tube Review:


Great product for things like exhaust, where temperature range and the nickel, non-graphite composition work best with steel fasteners without galling or other ill effects associated with copper+graphite anti-seize.

Good size for home mechanic use; should last a lifetime though is not a large tube.
Much larger packages are available for professional use.

I cannot find this in local auto stores, so extra helpful to have amazon carry at good price.



Loctite 51001 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube Review:


I use this when i clean my GLOCK. I use a tiny bit on the rail guides and thats it. In fact, when you purchase a GLOCK new, this is the stuff they use on it. I know GLOCKS can go with minimal cleaning and can run dry, blah, blah, blah, BUT, i was trained to clean you weapons after every use to just-out-of-the-box condition. So, there you go. I also use this on several of my other firearms, especially if there going to be on the bench. Good stuff.



Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8 oz. Review:


If you're into radios and want a better connection, I'm going to give you some proof you need to use this product. I've been using it for awhile on my antenna connections as a 'feel-good' product because I've never been able to actually measure if it makes a difference. I would swear all my radios worked better but after today, now I' convinced.

Trying to install a CB into these new Cherokee's is a hassle and I finally gave up and just went the mag-mount route. To make matters worse my Trailhawk has the panoramic roof so I have hardly any ground plane. Not expecting a lot in the way of performance but good enough to listen to while driving down the road, I ordered a Browning NMO mag mount since I like to switch between 2M/70cm and 11 meter. I installed the mount on the 6" wide sheet metal I have left on the rear of the roof and ran the cable to my Anytone 'CB'. For an antenna, while awaiting my Browning NMO 1/4 wave, I installed a NMO to 1/4" adapter, 4" heavy duty spring and a 2' Firestik with a tunable tip. When I tune up a compromised system such as this, I tune the channels I'm going to use verses the 1 and 40 route. Checking the SWR got me a 1.5 or so on Ch 20 with which I was happy with so I was just going to leave it alone. Then I remembered that I didn't put this copper antiseize on all my metal-to-metal connections. So tearing everything back apart, I gooped all the threads and center connectors and snugged it all back together. Checking the SWR on CH 20 one last time before calling it a day resulted in a 1. Dang. I figured I overdid it and shorted something so I removed everything again, wiped anything I felt was excess and reconnected. Still had a 1. Double dang. My meter must be bad. So after some checking I could not find an issue, hooked it up again and, yep, still had a 1 on CH 20. So I move to CH 1, calibrate and test. It stays under 2.5. Interesting. I go to CH 40, calibrate and test and, again, an SWR under 2.5. I switch to CH 19, calibrate and the needle doesn't move. WTH? I thought something was way wrong until I received a RX from 19 miles away. Now I'm seriously shocked. I mean, this is a mag-mount with a 2' antenna, which is already seriously compromised, and I don't have much ground plane either. I just dropped to a SWR of 1 with nothing but some conductive grease and it's legit!
I'm sold. I will always have this stuff on hand for radio work no matter what. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.



Permatex 80071 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 4 oz. Review:


After running into some very difficult suspension bolts years ago (seized up due to rust, dirt), I decided I was going to start using this on all high risk bolts. All evidence shows this does what it is supposed to - recently I took off some suspension bolts on my '96 pickup that I had put Ant-Seize on years ago, and it came off easily, with no need to use the impact gun.

Note - you don't want to use this on everything of course - some bolts that are lightly torqued and not prone to seizing may not benefit from Anti-Seize - in fact, you may create a situation where the bolt loosens on its own by using this... so use wisely.

Also, this 4 oz container will probably last me a lifetime, and then some.... for the DIY'er, this is the "overkill" size!

Thanks for reading.



Permatex 77124 Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8 oz. Review:


I chose nickel antiseize because I wanted just one bottle that could do all my metals rather than have to deal with multiple types of antiseize due to incompatibility between metals. It's also probably cheaper to do it this way.

I recently pulled a re-used O2 sensor that I had used this antiseize on to coat its threads. The sensor had been torqued to 35 ft-lbs. It came off without any leverage and in an area that limited my movements. O2 sensors are very difficult to remove because of the heat cycles of the catalytic converter so I consider that a good outcome. Also I briefly let the car heat up the cat beforehand which always helps.

If I have one complaint it's that the container is so full that it's hard to keep the brush clean. I scrape it on the inside neck but that fills up and it gets tedious. I probably should just discard some. The amount in the bottle is going to last me forever. You only need a TINY amount coating the threads not blobs of it, just enough to change the color.



Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant - 3 oz. Review:


UPDATE - Ford has released a new Grease for this drive shaft clunk / bump problem. It is White Teflon based Grease. Ford Part Number 9L3Z4W602A Search for this on E-Bay (without the quotes) "9L3Z4W602A - KIT - DRIVE SHAFT BOOT REPAIR" The Best price was from EDSDAYCO not only lowest price but also has Free Shipping. The E-Bay page is here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/9L3Z4W602A-KIT-DRIVE-SHAFT-BOOT-REPAIR-/171718556742?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27fb393c46&vxp=mtr

Great Stuff! It Really Works!! Stops the Clunking sound when starting or stopping. This was the older blue/green in color Teflon Based Grease and it still works great!

Really Hope This Helps - The Mechanic

Suggest you watch this You Tube Video explaining the problem and showing you how to fix it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79Qo-806n9g This mechanic has proven to be very helpful with Ford problems. Simple easy How To Step by Step with source info and part numbers.

Important Note: Ford has finally chosen a White High Teflon Grease for this TSB Previous grease was color was Blue and Green. But both color/types of grease had Teflon.

Ford has a new TSB to replace the drive shaft if under service warranty. Lube it yourself if not under warranty. Takes about 45 minutes and easy to do. Newly built drive shafts have thicker Nickel Coating on Drive Shaft splines and transmission output shaft receivers.
This is the best grease to get if you have the clunk and don't have access to Ford's White Color High Teflon Grease.

Suggest getting the 1 lb. can if you're out of warranty because it really works. Generally, your Drive Shaft needs to be inspected and re-greased at about 30,000 miles if using the old style drive shafts.

Hope this helps.



DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant Squeeze Bottle, 4 Oz Review:


I'm new in the world of powersports but this has to be the best bang for your buck chain lubricant there is. Following the purchase of my bike, I began stocking up on items to perform regular maintenance on my bike. I read several reviews ranting about this stuff as chain lubricant so I had to buy it to see what all the fuss was about. After thoroughly cleaning my chain with kerosene, I put on two coats of this stuff. It goes on clear and fully sticks after about an hour or two. The manufacturer of my bike recommends that the chain is cleaned every 600 miles. I can easily go 1500+ miles intervals between cleaning without any issues. My chain stays just as lubricated as the day I applied it and it attracts very little debris. I don't plan on switching lubricants ever.